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subnz
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Posts posted by subnz
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EA81 OHV engines with breaker points type distributors / hitachi carbs.
The ignition timing is 6 degrees BTDC (87 fuel) @ 700 / 800rpm idle , with the vacuum hose off and plugged - from the vacuum advance unit (on side of distributor) also.
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Felt bad about my 87 Brat / Brumby as it hadn't an oil change for a while as it doesn't get as much use now since owning Outbacks.
So new oil filter.+ Castrol 20W-50
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Weber is on the car and the craptashi is on the shelf. Had to make some changes to everything I found written here to maintain Colorado compliant emissions rules but it started right up. 43° morning today and it cold started instantly. After two short trips she runs perfect. The idle is a bit high once it warms up but a little tuning was expected. Combined with the Delta cam and shaved heads it has GOBS more power. We're talking 0-60 times down from 16 seconds to maybe as low as 13!!! Seriously though, the additional torque between 1500-3000 is substantial and should make for a much more pleasant daily driver in traffic.
Never had many issues with 1st 4 Subarus with Hitachi carbs apart from one on an EA82 I messed up rekitting / rebuilding so replaced with a 2nd hand one of the same.
Still have a 30 year old Brat still with its original hitachi carb - hadn't been running for 6 months and it started recently after 1 second of turning the key (full manual choke and kicked down accelerator 10x times before turning key / cranking engine)
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Driving test for assessing correct ignition timing.
Full throttle from 2000rpm in 3rd gear - sluggish acceleration and possible backfiring if bad - ignition timing retarded
- slight detonation (pinging) on initial full acceleration - timing correct.
- heavy detonation (pinging / knocking) - timing too advanced or low octane fuel.
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I use a paint pen to mark the old belt at each cam and the crank. Just another way of making sure the new belt has the marks in the correct places. I also count the teeth but that is just me being anal.
Agree, I do the same, A good check to be sure, before taking old belt off.
Then compare the marks are at similar positions on both old and new belts including lining up the teeth (belts side by side) .
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If the increase in temperature / overheating happens as going up hill is an indication that the radiator isn't flowing well enough.
Agree need to take off and get it flow tested by a radiator specialist
Running water through it with a hose isn't good enough. It doesn't test flow volume vs time.
Had issues with my 86 EA82 at 120 K miles. Heater core blocked and engine started to get hotter every time went up a hill.
Took radiator out and got it flow tested by a radiator specialist and it was 85% blocked / scaled up with hard white scale.
(still ran water through it but not enough volume vs time and only through unblocked part of it.)
They took radiator apart and physically rodded out the hard scale out of the cores.
What caused this - neglect by previous owners not following recommendations in owners / service manual ie change coolant every 2 years
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My 30 year old Brat has been neglected by sitting for 6 months in car port without being run.
So felt guilty and charged up battery (previously disconnected),
took air cleaner off thinking the worst,
kicked down the accelerator 10x times, full choke (manual - best , standard hitachi)
and it started instantaneously after a second of turning the key. (stale fuel and all - did top it up with a gallon of fresh fuel)
Was almost shocked, surprised coz wasn't expecting it was going to be that easy.
Gave it a good clean while warming up and did the garden green waste run and a good run for 30 minutes plus on the road .
What made it easier was that it was a 15 C (60 F) early spring day then last week.
Now colder with snow 4" over last 2 days 35 - 45 F
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A way to see if the fuel pump is working / delivering fuel under pressure to the carb - take fuel delivery line off carb - turn key on to check this.
or perhaps issues with float valve / needle jet setting. low fuel level in float bowl.
Agree also the fact that it fired, spraying carb cleaner into in it, suggests issues with the fuel system, still, somewhere.
but it could be as previously mentioned :
basic ignition timing - rotor should be pointing at no 1 spark plug lead position on distributor cap with corresponding ignition timing marks lined up between 0 - 10 BTDC on flywheel seen in inspection hole
( by repositioning or rotating distributor - which ever is necessary)
Roughly timed by hand like this it should start / run by rotating distributor back and forth slightly from this initial position.
Agree - to use timing light to time accurately. (5-6 degrees BTDC for 87 fuel)
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The timing belt install marks are 3 lines on the flywheel, not the zero TDC timing mark.
Yeah thanks - forgot to mention that in my essay / explanatiion
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Agree usually this means that the tensioner / toothed idler need to be replaced as well
If the belts are left uncovered
- run the risk of contamination or of something going through causing (early) belt failure ie stone etc.
Made the mistake of of not replacing toothed idler (replaced tensioners) at 2nd belt change on Ea82 (the 1st belt change I'd done on an EA82 Subaru about 20 years ago.
About a year after this, the unreplaced toothed idler seized destroying the left belt - one learns from making these mistakes.
Its easy to make the mistake of not replacing toothed idler / tensioners if they are turning freely - need to have new / replacement ones to compare the differences between old and new.
Usually if the tensioners can be spun at a zillion mph - they are worn out.
Agree also - usual cam pulley timing mark positions : right cam pulley timing mark at &12 o'clock position.
left cam pulley timing mark at 6 o'clock position
180 degrees between the two, ( with the flywheel cam belt timing mark - pointing at the middle of the 3 timing lines on flywheel)
Also agree left timing belt is doing more work driving oil pump and distributor as well, perhaps causing issues if these components defective or distributor out of phase if removed / replaced in incorrect position.
Assuming cam timing correct - To rephase / reposition distributor correctly if it was removed
Need to take out no. 1 cylinder spark plug and rotate engine with finger or compression tester gauge over spark plug hole to determine compression stroke - continue turning engine (crank) clockwise and stop when timing marks line up in fly wheel inspection hole at 0 degrees TDC
Replace distributor in position with rotor pointing at no.1 spark plug lead position on distributor cap and reluctor ( 4 star rotor) and stator poles (two pronged thingy) are aligned ( hitachi distributor)
May take several attempts to engage sprockets on cam and distributor shaft to achieve this correct position
Fine adjustment / correct timing achieved by rotating distributor on base plate
Also agree 50 - 60K is usual life span for belts / pulleys - changed mine at 60K (100K km as recommended)
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Totally agree on limiting rpms during the warmup period
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Sound fine - looked at my Haynes and Gregory manuals, recommends SF (1980s - now obselete) grade 20W/40 - 20W50
SJ grade (pre 2001 vehicles) sounds fine
SJ more recent oil and probably additives of a higher standard than the original SF Grade originally recommended now obselete.
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The problem with buying a 2nd hand / used drive shaft is that you could end up with the same problem.
Drive shafts with staked in joints are rebuildable - most use rockford / duralast kits.
Haven't rebuilt staked in u jointed shaft but have rebuilt the u - joints on my Brat driveshaft which had circlips retaining the cups inside. Can't remember what brand the kits were.
The inner edge of the cups were grooved that the circlips clipped into, which located / centrailsed the joints. (probably similar to kits)
I used the right size socket with yoke held correctly in bench vice to tap out old / tap in new cups.
http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/141870-u-joint-replacement-anyone/
There are youtube demonstrations on how to rebuild staked in u- joints also.
Couldn't copy / paste this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p_kZmzA_Bso
The missing bit is "watch" and seems to bring up the link incorrectly
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Agree removing the radiator gives more room to work and its less likely to get damaged removing pulleys etc
While apart its a good opportunity to throw the coolant and flush the cooling system.
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I used a specific aerosol spray foam cleaner on / inside throttle body also sprayed into PCV valve (also cleaned) hole in inlet manifold with engine running to clean upper cylinders etc - can't remember which brand - have read people here use use "seafoam"
Apart from doing basics like replacing spark plugs, air filter etc it could a vacuum hose issue and like you said a sensor playing up.
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My 87 Brumby (Brat) with 206K km (130K miles) has a big end bearing clatter on cold start up but goes away once oil pressure builds up after a few seconds - engine a little tired - uses a litre of oil /1000km - apart from that still run fine.
And agree ea81s have gear driven cam plus pushrods / OHV
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Agree an average of 300K miles / 500K km + is a good innings if looked after ie serviced regularly (engine oil/filter changes etc)
and also agree coolant replaced / system flushed as per recommendations in owners manual ( including T- belt replacement etc).
If rust not an issue.
Still own an 87 Brat with only 130K miles (206K km) .
Until rust put it off the road in 2009 - had an 86 GL wagon with 225K miles with plenty of life left in it mechanically. (would have easily made 300K+)
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Early Phase 1 EJ SOHC engines are non interference.
All EJ DOHC (quad cam) engines are interference ( valve to valve interference on each side as well)
Phase 2 EJ SOHC engines with engine code ending with a number eg EJ251 are interference.
I wouldn't take any chances at all on delaying cam belt changes etc assuming that your engine is non - interference.
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FJ40 Toyota Landcruiser from 1960 - 1984 ( slightly larger version of CJ Jeep)
And later versions along with the smaller Toyota Hilux
Making it one of the most successful 4WDs globally - only need to look whats being used in the Greater Eurasian / African / South American Continents / Australia for many years. Superceded Landrover use as superior and more reliable.
Same here in NZ everyone (farmers) had Landrovers (50s/60s) and when Landcruisers /Hiluxes appeared they took over.
The CJ Jeep was too small to be of practical use - great in Worldwar 2 as there was nothing else.
_hardtop_(26042130985).jpg/280px-1980_Toyota_Land_Cruiser_(FJ40)_hardtop_(26042130985).jpg)
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Hi from across the ditch
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Agree you're actually going to use more fuel as these lower profile tyres (55s) are smaller in diameter and are going to gear it down. (have to rotate more than 70 / 80 profile tyres)
That is more Engine Rpms per given speed than with higher profile stock tyres (175/185 x 70 x 13s)
Tyre width ( 215s ) is only for looks and floatation in soft conditions and more rolling resistance.
Agree pizza cutters 155 x 80 x 13s (skinny and tall) less rolling resistance - better fuel economy.
Run stock 185x70x13s on mine
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Hmm.. Heard of this method, sounds bit time consuming.
I was thinking of some kind of bidirectional pump... Outgoing ATF drives a hydraulic motor, and the motor drives a pump and pumps exactly the same amount of fluid. So ultimately you would maintain constant level of fluid during the procedure. For example:
Such pump should be fairly easy to do...
Procedure for full 100% flush goes like this:
1. Drain the pan
2. Change filter(s) if you like.
3. Add the same volume of new ATF as drained.
4. Disconnect radiator return line from the transmission and connect it
to OLD ATF IN port of the device. Connect a hose from OLD ATF OUT port
to an empty bucket.
5. Connect NEW ATF IN port of device to a tank with fresh ATF, and the
NEW ATF OUT port of the device to return port of transmission.
6. Run the engine and watch. Slowly go through gears in meantime. Stop
the engine when you see bright red (fresh) ATF going out, or when your
tank of fresh ATF runs out.
Would this work?? I have access to some machining toys... Could do a prototype in a few days.
This would definitely better and do a better job with running continuously than the start stop / drain - refill process in quart / litre increments
and agree there would be less mixing of old / new fluid with continuous running.
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I would just drain and fill and see if it gets better.
I've done this before:
1. fill ATF
2. pull ATF output hose and aim it towards a containerw fluid
3. turn key temporarily so ATF pumps out
4. turn key off
5. refill ATF
6. repeat steps 3-5 until new fluid is coming out
i'm not saying that's a good idea and i'm not sure anyone else has done it, i could see people saying it's risky but i've done it.
Am a strong believer in doing jobs properly and not 1/2 assed.
That's my opinion / belief for partial replacement of just what comes out of trans pan.
Its similar to draining 1.5 litres of old oil out of engine then banging in the drain plug to hold the remaining 2.5 litres of old oil in there and topping up with 1.5 L ( removed) with new oil. (ie for 2.5)
Agree did it this way for my 3.0 5EAT recently in August (my 1st vehicle with an AT in 41 years of vehicle ownership and maintenance.)
ie drain auto pan (got about 2.5 - 3 litres out of the 9.5 litres in trans / torque converter. Replace with new fluid of similar amount. (via funnel into trans dipstick tube)
Pull off and put trans cooler return hose (connected anextra length of clear plastic hose) and into drain pan.
Run engine briefly to remove / replace in about 1 litre increments - until fluid looks new looking.
The brief start / stop - drain / refill is to take care not to run trans to low in fluid in this flushing process.
I also moved the trans selector through RND and back while engine running briefly each time to aid in the trans flushing process.
Put 10 Litres through / into mine.
Its a bit of a fiddle / effort required to do this but knowing have done a better job.
There's enough stuff on how to do this ie on youtube. etc and use of google.
Freshly rebuilt EA82...not so fresh! driving me nuts
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Posted · Edited by subnz
Correct - this another way ie a driving test to check if the timing is correct - AFTER using a timing light to set timing.
Previous post
Driving test for assessing correct ignition timing.
Full throttle from 2000rpm in 3rd gear - sluggish acceleration and possible backfiring if bad - ignition timing retarded
- slight detonation (pinging) on initial full acceleration - timing correct.
- heavy detonation (pinging / knocking) - timing too advanced or low octane fuel.