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subnz
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Posts posted by subnz
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Thanks we also did the family camping thing at Arrowtown as kids in the early 70s in january. used to live / farm down south (Otautau / Tuatapere)
Moved up to Central / Southern lakes area 33 years ago for the reasons you mentioned.
Also worked as a ranger for DOC on Rees Dart Routeburn Greenstone Caples (Mt Aspiring National park) for 3 seasons.
Now working at an upmarket exclusive tourist lodge here.
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ps haven't rated SOHC EJ251 / EJ253 because of head gasket (and repeated head gasket) issues - otherwise would have been good if it wasn't for this..
the more recent ones are unproven yet ( haven't been around long enough yet) + oil consumption issues.
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Yes and is a really Bad idea. Unless you want to upgrade Brakes, Suspension, etc... and make room for a Radiator; besides other many things. You can See photos and read further info, here:
~► www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/122165-ea82-to-er27-swap/
However, others succeeded with that idea; such like this EA82 coupe with six cylinder subaru engine swap in Russia, video here:
~► https://www.facebook.com/100004138294409/videos/576652559149349/
Kind Regards.
Totally agree why would you want to do this?
Easier to buy a car with the H6 fitted that it was designed for.
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Found a best Picture of the Choke Lever on an EA82:
Any Updates for this thread?
Exactely the same on the 3rd gen 86 Leone (GL) Ea82 Wagon I had.
The choke cable needs to be adjusted / shorted to take up / readjust slack at carb,
need to take off aircleaner box to do this. make sure choke butterfly fully open with choke off.
Also make sure to check readjust fast idle linkages to throttle butterfly. otherwise when you pull choke car won't run.
It should be be running at about 2000rpm at full choke then return to normal idling speed when choke off/fully pushed in.
Also found the manual choke far superior to the auto choke on later 88 Leone / GL I had also especially for cold winter starts because of its better adjustibility.
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Well you're right on the money, stick with the EJ22 SOHC (for the reasons you gave) in a Legacy / Outback manual 90 - 96 heard of these
getting 400K + easily. Haven't had one but this is what I would have got in a Legacy.
These were popular here too for those reasons.
Anything with an EA81 ( for old school simplicity reliability etc too) particularly in a Brat / Brumby. I'm biased of course having one
Have a soft spot for earlier Ea82s (smoother more free revving more power than EA81) also too for simplicity reliability (carb / manual ckoke +
breakerless distributor/coil) in a GL / Leone 85/86 (had 2 of these) apart from silly cam belts
as the the success of this engine is what EJ engines were developed from..
In something more recent the H6 EZ30R 2005 + ( 5EAT) in an Outback .again biased
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06 3.0R with 87 Brumby in original condition
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Thats a stupid idea with them not being easily rebuildable.
Rebuilt ones on Brumby / Brat. (easily rebuildable) popped the circlips tapped out cups with right sized socket in vice etc
tap in new cups making sure circlip recesses exposed to refit circlips etc. easy peasy
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mmmmm sounds like rebuilt CV not good and because it happens when you're turning right it suggests the outer one .
Inner CVs tend to make a noise on the the over run (ie trailing throttle) when travelling straight or if really bad clonk continuously going straight.
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All good info above. The big tell would be the distributor location. Easiest to see without looking very deep.
Ive had ea81, and 82's myself. I like the set and forget of the injected 82motors, especially for a daily driver. Tho for tractor torque, and being nearly bulletproof, you cant beat the hammer simple 81 motors
totally agree EA81 old school torquer ie pulls strongly from 2500rpm but runs out of breath at 4000rpm
whereas EA82 more of a revver ie doesn't start happening til 3000rpm thru to 4500rpm where it slows up
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Fuel economy is only a small part considering there's not much difference between 4 and 6 at reasonable highway running trips
however the 6 eats the fuel more in urban / short running.
But at $2 gallon the US has some of the cheapest fuel globally and if it were me and if I was only paying $2 / gallon go straight for the 6 (wouldn't consider the 4)
Here in NZ fuel is $7 / gallon ($2 / litre) and i have a 3.0R.
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Also the EA81 OHV 1800 has steel (black usually) rocker covers and distributor at front in middle offset to right.
The EA82 SOHC 1800 has alloy cam / valve covers in similar alloy to the rest of the engine as well as the black plastic timing belts
cover at front of the engine as previously mentioned and distributor at left rear head of engine.
They are 2 completely different engines (ie different blocks / heads) apart from sharing the same bore and stroke.
Not sure of parts interchangibility as never tried doing this. I imagine that they are similar apart from engines.
The EA82 SOHC is far superior ie more free revving / smoother engine with more power than the clatterly older OHV EA81
Still have a soft spot for its simplicity (EA81) as it is almost maintenance free ie no silly cam belts etc to replace like on EA82.
Have owned two examples of both and liked both for their strengths / weaknesses - still have Brat / Brumby (EA81)
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perhaps need to clamp it with aligator clips to help it stay in place
Also what helps is to remark the 3 sets of corresponding timing marks (lined up) with twink / white out before removing old belt.
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totally agree if I was to buy of that vintage the EJ 22 (SOHC) in manual would be my pick also they have great longevity if looked after.
try and get a clean one relatively free of rust, other mechanical stuff can be fixed if not too major ie cost / benefit
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Try manual shifting it in economy mode for a tank then in auto for a tank to see if that makes a difference.
Got about a 10% improvement in economy manually shifting my 06 3.0R Outback mainly running in intelligent (economy) mode (even with its fancy 5 spd SI drive with 3 different shifting modes.
eg in auto average 25mpg (1400km - 2 tanks) manual shifting 27mpg (1400km- 2 tanks) ie 1 to 4 hour trips (not short running).
short running 20 mpg
If doing short running and winter as well economy not going to be good.
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Perhaps car needs new spark plugs - were these replaced?, new air filter, injector cleaner additive in fuel
throttle body, inlet manifold, upper cylinder foam cleaner.
Tyre pressures, roof racks, dragging brakes, wheel alignment are other ideas, perhaps some obvious.
Another idea is perhaps to disconnect battery to reset ecu so it can relearn your driving style?
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Did .you get the cylinders honed achieving a cross hatch pattern. to help rings seal. otherwise cylinders / bores could be glazed.
Did you check / size each of the rings individually in its respective bores ( checking ring gap etc in at least 3 positions in bore using its piston to push in)
When fitting rings to pistons did you position all ring gaps equi - distant from each other?
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87 Brat EA 81 4MT D/R 208K km (130K miles) in original condition
hasn't had much use since 2009 since using Outbacks as daily drivers.
semi retired now to being used as a self propelled trailer.
86 Leone GL EA82 5MT D/R Touring Wagon 360K km (225K miles) until rust put it off the road in 2009 still had plenty of life left in it.
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Hi,
If this is a serious request...these are about as rare a Subie as you'll find....You'll want to spend more time on NASIOC.com as they deal (almost) exclusively w/the Impreza, and you'll need to look on overseas forums as the USA had NOTHING comparable to the 22B when it was avl. in 1998.
Read the Wikipedia article on this page - HERE.
Issues:
- The engine will be close to impossible to find (actually, very impossible). Yes, you can get close w/an EJ22T block and either EJ20G or EJ25D heads, but that's not a a true 22B
- Body panels were unique to the 22B and no longer made.
- Others.
Most just go for the JDM WRX swap. Buy the front clip off Ebay and swap what you can (it's a Right-Hand Drive remember) into the Impreza. Expect $2500+ for the clip plus another $2-3K in extras.
And if you've never wired anything be aware it'll take a complete wiring harness - engine and body - to make this work correctly.
Good luckn
TD
Agree You Can't make a 22B it will only be sort of a replica at best.
They were a special small production run of about 400 plus cars to comemerate WRC success. and Subarus 40th anniversary in 1998.
The bonnet and fenders (flared) (wide body) are different to the standard type R that its based on
n Europe, the Subaru Impreza WRX GT's (Turbo 2000 in UK) interior was updated to leather. For the STI, power remained at 280 PS. Forged pistons were also added. The interior and the cockpit were changed into a newer design along with the new white colored gauges.
For the UK, the WRZ "Turbo Terzo" was released in April 1998. 333 cars in blue with gold alloy wheels were produced to celebrate Subaru's WRC title.
Subaru Impreza 22B STIIn 1998, Subaru of Japan produced a widebody, coupe WRX STI called the "22B STI" produced between March and August 1998. The 22B was used to commemorate both Subaru's 40th anniversary as well as the third consecutive manufacturer's title for Subaru in the FIA World Rally Championship. On the release of the sales, all 400 Japanese units sold out in from 30 minutes to 48 hours, depending on the report.[8] Another 24 were produced for export markets—16 for the UK, along with another 5 for Australia, and 3 prototypes. The 16 cars imported to the UK were modified by Prodrive, with longer gear ratios, and UK specification lights. Because 50 22Bs had already been imported privately into the UK, Subaru had to wait until 1999 to register the 16 officially imported cars under the VCA's Single Vehicle Approval scheme.
The 22B had the EJ22 engine (note, the internal Subaru material states the closed-deck block comes from a version 3 EJ20G). This means the displacement was increased from 1994 cc to 2212 cc. Officially, it produced 280 PS (206 kW; 276 hp). This car was given a unique color of blue and had fender flared widebody taken from the Peter Stevens designed WRC car, thus widening the width by 80 mm (3.15 inches). The car has a unique hood, front and rear fenders, a WRC-inspired front bumper and a unique adjustable rear wing. During assembly, a WRX Type R chassis was taken off the line. The fenders were replaced with the 22B STI fenders. The suspension is provided by Bilstein, while the brakes were four-pot front/two-pot rear STi calipers, painted red. The wheels were increased in size from the standard WRX Type R STI from 16- to 17-inches and the clutch was upgraded to a sintered twin clutch with a ceramic disk. The origin of the name 22B has been debated. Most assume 22 referred to the 2.2 liter displacement and the B was for the Bilstein suspension. This would correlate with the idea that Subaru sells a Legacy Spec B, where the B represents the Bilstein suspension. The car's curb weight is 1,270 kilograms (2,800 lb).
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Hi from the deep south
Nice example and work, These were terrible for rust here along with Brumby (brat) in 70s 80s models.
One of these similar was my 1st Subaru 23 to 20 years ago 83 EA81 wagon 4MT D/R unfortunately don't have any digital pix of it..
Still have an 87 Brumby EA81 4MT D/R in good original condition, was my late fathers (from Alexandra so body really good)
see pix link below
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Nice work this was my one in 2009 before it moved on
NZDM 86 Leone GF ea82 5MT D/R Touring Wagon
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Also forgot to mention before drive up to 50-60mph then brake firmly to test brakes.
If the pedal pulses it means the front rotors (discs) are warped / worn pads are worn etc
and also listen for any harsh sounds means worn out brakes / pads etc. (metal on metal- no brake pads left) make sure do this on a quiet road with no-one close
behind you.( guess thats obvious)
Don't brake too hard ie to the point of lockup otherwise ABS will be activated which pulses the brakes also to avoid wheel lockup
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Listen for growling trans, feel for torque bind, clutch slippage etc.
Do some figure 8s both ways this will pick up torque bind as previously mentioned (in manual - centre diff. auto - transfer clutch) and while doing this listen for clicks clunks coming from worn CV joints
If it hasn't been replaced already possibly / probably looking at clutch replacement @ 160K
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Yep well done it doesnt pay to assume problem is always fuel, as ignition problems particularly breaker - points, HT leads (spark plugs) can break down as vehicle warms up particularly, if cheap or old tired. Ignition coils can do intermittant things when tired / failing. vacuum leaks hoses / inlet manifold.also
The 1st thing I look at like you did is the breaker points when my Brumby / Brat starts running like a hairy dog - ignition timing and spark strength are affeced when
they become pitted. its a good idea to a spare set
ps another good thing to do 1st before anything else is replace spark plugs (as you did) and air filter ie part of the process of elimination.
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. "The 5 speed has superior shifter components over the 4 speed".
Totally agree have owned 2 examples each of 4 and 5 speed
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^ That actually reminds me of the other thing I did recently haha, bought an rx driveline for future use in my wagon. 5speed dual range diff lock, rear lsd.
Cost a fair bit, but hey, they're still printing money.
http://puu.sh/lTJxq/3edfbf53e8.jpg
wow its all there, even gear lever surround with diff lock switch - might have to come and steal it
Older vs Newer
in Members Rides
Posted
Yep correct on all counts