subnz

Great engines, had 2 of them. the EJ engines were developed from the success of the EA 82 engine. Unfortunately the problems were due to lack of maintenance (particularly to cooling systems) ie manufacturers recomendations not followed. Inhereted those problems in both of mine, able to fix one and quit the second one. Have seen many others that shouldn't have come to an early end for that particular reason. Also prefered the manual choke (much better at very cold start / warmup) - carburettored ones with non ecu/sensors breakerless electronic distributor and standard single coil because of its simplicity / longevity / ease and low cost to diagnose problems and fix compared to more recent more complex, more expensive to fix ecu / sensors managed fuel/ignition systems now particularly in EJs. The one that l kept ie 86 Leone GF wagon 5MT D/R was 24 years old when I sold it , it never had a spanner inside the motor apart from a new clutch and the usual cam belts, there were no electrical/ignition issues apart from changing batteries, spark plugs, light bulbs and only had carburettor apart once to put a new kit in it. Also the EA82 wasn't / isn't so good for modifying because of its head design ie limits to how well the manifolds / heads flowed with forced induction so power increases were modest. EA82T - 115bhp, EA82 (MPFI) - 97bhp SPFI - 90bhp, carburettored - 84bhp. However the factory rally spec RX11 Coupe/Sedan EA82T was 190bhp, and had heard that up to 250 bhp was reached with some tweeking. This, below (mentioned previously) in original condition (2009) was probably the best car I've ever owned for longevity /low cost/ lack of problems etc.

Posted 26 February 2014 - 08:33 AM Whee, drove it out from garage carefully and tried to get feel for low grabbing clutch. Then headed to gas station and soonish started to listen whats that sound, its was like dry and loud bearing. Fortunately it was only hood support that was loose and it was rubbing against powersteering pulley. Gonna adjust clutch cable later to get it grab a bit higher like it was before operation. I didnt replace baffle plate since dealer couln't give date when it would arrive. But if I learnt something from this clutch change episode it would be: Be prepared. Order stuff beforehand, get used flywheel and have it machined, Take pictures what goes where, take pictures from other angles too. Make notes. Put parts in safe place where you find them, label hoses. Get torq specs etc. Thank you very much for helping me out! Saved a big penny and learned lotsa of new stuff! Yep its all a leaning curve DIY, I remember from doing my 1st clutch not refacing flywheel surface had clutch judder /chatter issues but they get less / sort of go away after a while when clutch disc wears / beds in. Sorry forgot to mention / talk about making / improving a clutch disc alignment tool (out of a series of sockets on rod) etc back in previous message but you got that figured out.

Coils / electrics / high tension leads between coil / distributor cap also / spark plugs get over looked in diagnosing these problems. These electrical components especially coil / high tension leads can break down under load / do intermittant things when they are failing.

Ideally it would be best to get a complete trans axle (including front diif) The best EA trans would be one out of a late 80's RX 11 Coupe, if you could get one (rare as hens teeth) These are AWD D/R with a lockable centre diff, as against a standard EA D/R trans (part time selectable FWD / 4WD)

Agree would be easier/better to get the right one shipped from Australia / NZ/ Japan ( from a local importer?) out of a Forester/Outback without having the hassles of the modifications to use a EA D/R transmission. 04 Foresters / Outbacks here are availabe with MT D/R transmissions.

My 87 NZDM Brumby (Brat) off original registration papers: dated 30-3-1987 Subaru MV 4WD chassis no : NAU 5EG 11448 engine no. : EA81 153623 this was pre VIN days,before this became a requirement.

Totally agree engine removal for clutch replacement, This is how I do it as well particularly if don't have access to a hoist / pit. Also agree to purchase a full kit, it should include clutch disc, pressure plate, release bearing and spigot shaft bearing (housed in centre of flywheel.) other wise false economy / job not done properly. A lot easier than groveling on the ground with axle stands removing transmission. And agree, a good opportunity to deal to oil leaks while out ie flywheel/crank oil seal, cam cover gaskets, easy spark plug replacement etc and A good opportunity to do cam belt / water pump etc replacement if due as well. While clutch apart take flywheel off and take to an automotive recondtioners machine shop and get the face of flywheel machined if its scored from worn previous clutch . Otherwise new clutch will shudder on engagement if you don't do this.

As soon as CV boots start cracking replace ASAP irrespective of boot quality. As soon as dirt gets in / grease dries out they fail. eg had a GL 86 leone wagon til 09 never had to replace cvs as always replaced boots as soon as they started cracking

With the cheap fuel in US (NZ $8.50 gallon) if it was me making the decision, the H6 would be the obvious choice, along with no cam belt changes necessary and the lack of head gasket issues inherent with the 2.5's

The 86 wagon 5MT D/R(manual choke hitachi carburettor + breakerless electronic distrubutor/coil - no ecu/sensors) was better than the 88 (that i owned) because it was more simple and trouble free. In fact the 86 was probably the best car I've ever owned (purchaed in 95 with 90K miles) for low cost to run / maintenance / lack of any problems. the only thing in the drive train replaced was the clutch at 150 K miles and the odd CV boot in the 15 years l had it. the motor never had a spanner inside it. never had to touch the ignition system apart from checking the ignition timing out of curiousity twice and replacing spark plugs when necessary. Carburettor apart once to clean and tyres batteries light bulbs cambelts filters when necessary. Oil / filter @ 3 - 5 K miles and flushed cooling system 2 yearly. Rust around windscreen ( structural) in 09 put it off the road, in 6 monthly road worthiness inspections here. Car had done trouble free 240k miles and was probably good for another 60K+ but car was worthless now but still a sound runner so gave it to neighbour.

Agree spark plug High tension leads / ignition coils can do strange intermittant things when failing sometimes (ie break down under load) may not see a visible fault / short.

Have had two of these and the best to go for are the most simple ones ( non ecu) ie with carburettor / traditional distributor/coil ignition rather than fuel injection and ecu managed ignition and non turbo and with manual transmission dual ratio, Because these cars are getting on in age the more simple they are the less problems you have with them.

Fuel icing perhaps, check flapper unit and associated vacuum pipes on intake to aircleaner housing if it has this and a bypass pipe? that draws warm air off exhaust manifold? if it has this also? Not sure how turbos / fuel injected are set up but this is how N/A carburettor engines are.

Agree on tyres making the difference and driver experience in snow and also, ,knowing the limitations of your vehicle and also your own limitations / ability in driving in snow/winter conditions

If/ when system rebled for airlocks and checking that the correct thermostat (has been fitted with the new water pump) as previously suggested. Cheap / incorrect ones don't flow well enough when fully open. Then next consider the radiator, if still having problems (this is a 17 year old car) take out get it flow tested by a radiator specialist. Then back to head gaskets repair. Its a case of working though systematically. Can't assume / not assume anything (ie with older cars) until you actually check stuff.

If doing all the previously suggested things ie headgaskets, correct genuine thermostat etc ( cheap ones don't open / flow well enough) and still have problems need to consider the radiator especially if it was 2nd hand it could be defective / partially blocked / not flowing well enough also, so get it flow tested by a radiator specialist if this is the case. If blocked, tanks will be required to be removed and the cores "rodded out"

If after bypassing heater core and if still problems suspect radiator, take get flow tested by radiator specialist, these can scale up ie hard white scale and may need to remove tanks and physically " rod out" cores.. I had an 86 Leone EA82 with heater core/ overheating issues and the radiator was significantly blocked and needed to be rodded out. Also if the incorrect thermostat/ no thermostat is fitted this can cause probems too - suggest a genuine one. Also as mentioned previously check temp sender unit / cooling fan etc if this isn't working correctly. Was the replacement radiator new or if 2nd hand? (did you get it flow tested)?

Ignition coil/s can do funny intermittant things when failing (break down under load) so you've replaced all HT leads coil/Distrubutor/spark plugs? these can break down under load / when get warm also. Could be a vacuum leak /hose/ inlet manifold gasket/s? Does it have distributor with breaker points/condenser ? these may need to replaced / regapped. It definitely won't be the thermostat causing these problems.

20 degrees sounds excessive but don't know anything about SPFI engines etc. On my 86 leone (EA82) it was 10 degrees btdc at idle (breakerless electronic distributor) with vacuum advance hose detatched using timing light ( with carburettor. for 91 fuel) The vacuum advances/retards (plate inside distributor moves and centrifical weights advances rotor so advances timing up to 35 degrees ? (from memory) when rev engine with vacuum hose back on. Can check this with timing light / timing marks? Never had to touch/replace anything there in the 23 years l had it apart from checking timing (with light) twice. Engine maybe one crank rotation out of phase for distributor? Did you move anything? Did you put it back in the same way you took it out? If moved engine can take no.1 spark plug out and check that no. 1 piston is at TDC corresponding with TDC timing mark, to have engine in phase. then distributor @ no. 1 etc etc. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/136371-distributor-timing-problems-on-ea82/

One of the problems with Subaru boxer engines is that because they're in a flat configuration the oil and water in their engines stay in contact with gaskets etc continuously as compared to upright and V6/8 configured engines where this (oil / water is able to partially drain away) If oil/water isn't changed regularly the contaminants "eat away" at gaskets etc over time that is why its important to change oil at 3000miles and flush cooling system (every 2 years - this is recommended in the owner manual.) As you've mentioned the cam cover gaskets are/can be notorious for leaking as well. Its also important to replace 2 cam / crank seals when replacing cam belt The head gasket issue for earlier EJ251 was for both for water / oil external leaks. and some internal where the even earlier EJ25D was notorious for internal leaks. Am assuming your engine EJ253 (SOHC) wasn't noted for headgasket issues like the previous two earlier engines I've just mentioned as they had resolved? the inferior headgasket problem. Am posting 2 links that discuss this fully http://allwheeldriveauto.com/subaru-head-gasket-problems-explained/ http://allwheeldriveauto.com/subaru-head-gaskets-problems-explained-part-ii/

Posting these two links on Head gasket problems explained for Subarus in general including the problem child EJ25D / EJ251 engines. These are the best single article explanations I've seen. http://allwheeldriveauto.com/subaru-head-gasket-problems-explained/ http://allwheeldriveauto.com/subaru-head-gaskets-problems-explained-part-ii/

Am posting two links giving the best explanation I've seen on subaru head gasket problems in general (including the notorious EJ25D and EJ251 ) by an independent expert. http://allwheeldriveauto.com/subaru-head-gasket-problems-explained/ http://allwheeldriveauto.com/subaru-head-gaskets-problems-explained-part-ii/

Totally agree,hate seeing them butchered like this, Its a case of getting the right one for the job.

Also get the radiator out and have it flow tested by a radiator specialist . I had one 85% blocked / scaled up in an 86 Leone EA82 ( thanks to previous owners) (flushing it not good enough now if scaled up -white hard deposits; damage has probably already been done if blocked) Tanks need to be removed and cores need to be physically " rodded " out. This is caused by lack of maintenance ie by NOT flushing the cooling system every 2 years as recommended in the owners manual. Also the EJ25D was/is notorious for internal head gasket failures whereas the later phase 2 engine the EJ251 was/is noted for external head gasket failures.