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James_Ford

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Durango, CO
  • Interests
    Cars, Motorcycles, Adventures.
  • Occupation
    Sawyer
  • Vehicles
    1993 Loyale

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  1. The exhaust leak is fixed! BUT It does still stumble upon acceleration. I don't know where to start troubleshooting. I would rather avoid the replace-stuff-till-it-works plan. At least one injector is very loud and the right side cylinder bank left it's header a little oily. As it is a rather messy lookin wiring harness - does anyone know if a wiring harness issue could cause this?
  2. It's getting sealed up and reinstalled for troubleshooting purposes, at least. I'm off to work in a different state for two weeks tomorrow AM, so I'll have to pursue this project again Later. I wonder what I should order to have ready for myself when I get home... other than exhaust gaskets. Nobody say "EJ" (although that may be in the Long Term Plan)
  3. Yeah... the reason the code 35 is happenning is not because the solenoid is broken... it's cause it's gone. P.O. removed it and plugged the vacuum lines. Sometimes inheriting someone else's project is not ideal.
  4. NorthWet, you're seeing the passenger cylinder's exhaust flange, not the turbo flange.
  5. Exhaust removal complete. Removal of the heat shields was... yeah it was destructive. MilesFox I think I will be taking up on that if it is available. On the other hand, how asinine would I be if I repaired and reinstalled sans heat shield?' alt=''>
  6. Yeah... The turbo bolts are a huge PITA. Time to buy that MIG welder I've wanted for so long... It does seem airflow related to me. The resistive tracks in my MAF look just fine. I'm still working on taking the ERG out for cleaning however I'm waiting on the pen oil to do it's work on that, as well. It does click when I push on the diaphragm, so I don't think it's stuck open... MilesFox, The world could use more EA82 videos. I'm a Wisconsinite myself. Grew up in Minocqua.
  7. Here it sits in front of the post apocalypse repair shop. A leaky shed that was literally used to store garbage before I turned it into my no budget work space.
  8. Well... My fingers are crossed. But I'm not that hopeful that fixing the leak will get me running well again. But first things first! It does appear to be at the flange. Currently I'm waiting on the penatrating oil to soak into that pesky rearmost flange bolt so I can remove it. And also on daylight, I suppose.
  9. And the winner is- Exhaust leak! I already know I have a large and inconsequential exhaust leak just in front of the muffler - but I was starting to wonder if it was possible that I had one farther up on the exhaust. I sucked some Seafoam up and voila - lovely clouds of white smoke billow from the turbo area. Another good use for Seafoam. Looks like I will be tracking the problem down more and then hitting the classifieds...
  10. It's ALIVE! It runs now. However, it is very down on power - with dead spots at certain engine speeds / throttle positions. Throws a code 35 too but I hear that's common... NorthWet, Spot on with looking for problems caused by previous work. Studying the vacuum diagrams revealed a few problems to fix and it runs now. I'm going to continue tracing vacuum lines to see if i can get it running better. But again, the timing belt is installed correctly - the plug wires are installed correctly. scoobiedubie, I'm at 7000 feet and the turbo version is only... what... 7.7 :1? all four at 100 seemed good, given that. Thoughts? MilesFox, your videos were among the resources I looked at to verify this. Distributor position, timing belts, and firing order check out. They didn't when I picked up the car though. P.O. seemed to thing the distributor went clockwise...
  11. Oh, I've checked the hash marks twenty times. Spark plugs and dizzy are correct as far as i know but I'll triple check it tomorrow. Wires are new. Engine smells really rich when I'm trying to run it. What kind of ignition problem would only affect one cylinder bank? ...intake manifold gasket?
  12. NorthWet, I was convinced that one of those common things would be my problem, too. But I've checked the belt install six different ways - even took the valve cover gasket off to visually verify that my valves were opening at the right time (or at least not way off) Everything checks out. So why the hell is half my engine not working right?
  13. I just purchased my first Subaru - a lovely project car with an '86 EA82T Engine. The previous owner had experienced a timing belt failure and had replaced the water pump, thermostat, timing belts, plugs and wires, and 'some hoses' (radiator) and once it was back together, it had no power and would overheat quickly. That's when he decided his head gasket was blown and sold it to me. Well it "runs" - after a fasion. It will run rough, stumble, backfire, and die within a few seconds of being cranked over unless you give it about half throttle, which will jump you to 3000 RPM where it runs... kind of smoother. Sorta. From what I can hear my driver's side bank is running great, my passenger side is not. I'm headed back out to verify this by pulling the plugs out of one half of my engine, and then the other. I don't think I have head gasket trouble. All cylinders are within a few pounds of 100 psi. This got me thinking valves and ignition timing I've rechecked the timing, rechecked the distributor, even pulled the valve cover off the passenger side so I could see the cam timing for myself. I am confident that I'm not a tooth off on either cam sprocket, and have verified that my distributor is pointing at the point for cylinder one when cylinder one is reaching TDC. Where should I go from here? I'm new to these engines, is there anything the P.O. could have done during the service he performed that would make it run like this? Having checked compression and valve timing - it is probably spark or fuel... right? Thanks for your help Subie friends.
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