SnatchedHatch

LOL! I imagine it would. Hot damn, what is the power ratio on these things? The possibilities for summer...

Wow, I'm sorry I forgot to mention another "symptom" of off-tune besides weak/low power. Everyday, on my first start, I have to pump the gas two or three times for an effective start. Once she is warmed up, it starts normally. But if not, even a second start needs some gas. I have a muffler, so no cats isn't too big of a deal for me. Cops are cool around me, had a 2.5L Sentra with a 3.5" catback exhaust and was never bothered with. My plan is to either replace the O2 sensor, or if the cats are failed I will straight up cut them out for now. I passed emissions in Dec. 13' with FLYING colors, better than my '02 car. I have had a rattly guard *before on a different car*, but as I was working on the CV shaft with my car on a lift, my mechanic buddy knocked about the rear cat and in his opinion it was failing/crumbling. I can imagine he would notice if it was the guard instead. That said, let's say the rear cat is toast, then the front could just be suffocating. It almost sounds like gas is trying to escape from that area on hard acceleration. I will check the plugs, the only thing I sprayed through the carb was a good amount of starter fluid (note, it didn't need it. I have a faulty gas level gauge :/ That was embarassing lol). This was in November/early December. I made sure I bought the starter fluid with lubricant. I'll check the exhaust smell. Besides the rough cold start, it idles well but I have instances of putting down the gas (pedal) and I will get *rev+accelerating* more gas pedal *rev and stagnant acceleration, just more revs and more noise*. My clutch is good, and this is what I mean by weak power. At other times, oh man it powers through just fine and I even manage to overtake someone. The boxer growl reminds me of our 3.6L Outback at full throttle . I have to note, that I don't believe in coincidences and I took my car to the car wash recently. As I left I made a flawless getaway. The water cooled Something down

I've heard of pulling the front CV's in an emergency and running on 4WD. How would you do that, don't you need a spindle through the hub to prevent bearing failure? EDIT: I'm not planning on it like you guessed.

YESS

//"... Period...... Length between where the boots attach is irrelavent. Think about it....each chassis is the same width, using the same knuckles, and same trans mounting points (AT and MT diffs are the same width) For a given chassis.......all axles are the same INSTALLED length. (off the car you can stretch and compress them...so that comparison is flawed) ... The only thing that varies is axle thickness, the cup/joint size, and the spline count (25 on turbos) "// I'm sorry but "all axles are the same INSTALLED length." is even more confusing and misleading. That's as if you said, if the part will fit the car, then all of the shafts in that category are the same length ?? You said yourself that they all stretch and compress to different lengths, from what I've seen from local and online merchants, the CV shafts are specified by compressed length only. ..if each part has it's own compressed and stretched limits, then each has a different minimum and maximum length. I'm pretty sure that affects fitment and proper function on the vehicle. To date I had 27-3/4", 27-1/4", 25-3/4", and a 25-1/4" compressed length shafts. ~The first two were simply not going to bolt on, they were too long, or the head was too fat at the spindle, not allowing it to sit flush. ~The last one was just too short, fully stretched and not bolting on. EA71? This one was also very fat in thickness (not relevant I guess). ~The 25-3/4" compressed length shaft is just long enough to bolt on, but compared to the original shaft I had, it is stretched at least half an inch more. The original shaft bolted on wheel side, then stretched a bit and was pinned to the engine side hub. This aftermarket part stretched approx. the same amount, then almost 3/4" more before the pin would be able to fasten. The cv shaft started to chatter within a week... (OK so different heads can affect fitment, does each Subie have it's own head size?)

Damnit. It was definitely spewing smoke from the front of the front cat, I would guess that to be dripped rubber though. I'll check it out, thank you!

I'm splitting my last post about the CEL's and O2 sensors to focus on this: -are there tell-tale signs of an improperly tuned carburetor? -wouldn't it technically reak havoc on the catalytic converters over time? ~I'm going to scour the forum for information on the topic, however at the moment my home internet is down. ~I'm limited to my phone, unless I hit some FREE wifi (yeah Dunkin.. haha), but reading the posts and pms is doable. What do y'all think? My front cat is overheating, possibly due to a failed O2 sensor. The rear cat either has a rattling guard, or from what I could tell a crumbling infrastructure. Engine seems weak on power. Any ideas, thought, info, comments would be greaat! -Sam

Thanks, unfortunately I'm waiting for my Wireless router to come in. I've been using public/cafe wifis for the last week or so, and I jsut can't spend that much time browsing while here. I will take a look once my home connection is back up, but to comment on the info: I believe my rear cat is failing too, that or the guard is rattling as many have said on here that is the more probable case. Thing is, I had my car up on a lift and my mechanic buddy gave it some knocks and said it sounds like the mesh is caking and crumbling if that makes sense. Now the front is overheating. I wasn't aware I could tell if it is still good by temperature alone. Is there a certain range of temp that defines hot cat and broken? I can still browse the forum on my phone with ease, I'd appreciate any input on that! I'm also worried that my carb might be out of tune causing a lean or rich mixture, as this can cause problems in the cats (I know first hand from my last car that any unburned gasoline will destroy the cat over time). ..and I would not be surprised if I'm my sub is not reaching peak efficiency. Anyone have experience with carb tuning?

I would go so far as to agree on the difference in thickness, however from what I've experienced with EA81 CV shafts, the length can differ too. In fact, as the automatics sticks out more (EA81 cars) the shafts are thicker and shorter. Let's see if someone can verify this for EA82 cars.

HEY NOW! Ok, I admit I can definitely relate to how much better a 5 speed would be. Sometimes, it's just LAGGGG in a certain gear. :/ Also, ditto for the Nasturally aspirated engine, as I see it: I would not be driving my old Subie on my budget for very long if it had a turbo ;-)

Thanks! I'll go count those splines!

I bought my car with this problem: The CEL appears after 15-20minutes of driving/warming up. Sooner if rough/hard driving, or 4WD is engaged (more stress on the engine). Also if left to warm up for more than 5 minutes it appears. Yesterday: ~Popped hood, found a whisp of smoke, the front catalytic converter heated up enough to start to melt the outer edge of the inner CV boot on the passenger side. //From what I've read, an overheated cat can be cause by a failure in the O2 sensor, surprise surprise it looked as if it was the source of the smoke. I just want to get some advice on if I should start by replacing the O2 sensor. I'm thinking it caused the CEL all this time? BUT does an old car like this depend on the CEL for regulation of gas flow, or is that silly to think for a carb? I'm not familiar sorry! Could it be a combo of the O2 and a not properly tuned Carb? I would admit it has been on the weak side, but I just have blamed old tech. Please, any advice would be appreciated. My plan is to replace the cat, and at the same time or after confirm if the cat is still usable. If it's a dud, then time to straight pipe this girl

Yes, I've also heard it could be worn engine mounts. Not sure if it was in this thread ^^^ but that actually could be a possibility for me. I'm guessing a bent frame could also mess with the balance of the two shafts, I have one repainted front fender and the bumper slightly sags on that side.. Hmm

Hey Odie! ~~I replied to your other thread-post about the CV shaft, thanks for the offer! I just wanted to chime in here with my two cents. The first aftermarket AutoZone special order CV shaft I put on my car had a light clicking sound almost immediately. Within a week or two, it was a full on chatter. At 5 weeks it made a disturbing KNOCKING sound on the highway. Got rid of that garbage, got my refund as per the AZ warranty, and ordered a rebuild/aftermarket reproduction (can't remember) shaft off RockAuto. So far it's good, also light clicking/chatter but it's not too serious. -Try RockAuto. They also have lifetime warranties on their parts (most if not all the CV shafts), and I found them to be cheaper. They do sell OEM rebuilds. -Or listen to what these guys are saying, they haven't let me down! The CV longevity link I75eya posted looks promising, and I'll have to take a look at it. -Sam

I have a spare OEM Subaru EA82 front CV axle/shaft and wanted to know what it will fit? A few members are in need of such a shaft and have asked me about it. THANKS in advance! -Sam

I'm in the same boat, I'm not ready for any engine/wire harness swap. I have a solid trans, and a low mileage EA81 with zero issues. Would love to find out more about this, makes sense as I was aware they used the EA81 in small aircraft. I'll probably just weberize it though..

I'll consider it! My CV axle hasn't bothered me at the moment, and if you just plan on putting it aside I would take you up on your offer. I have had nothing but headaches with these Autozone Special Order axles where I'm at, too long or too short compressed length. Only one worked from them but it started knocking pretty good after a month or so. I bought the same part, no core charge so cheaper, from Rock Auto. Compressed length 25-3/4" as I recall. If you need a decision soon, It looks like I might need to replace my passenger side front CV shaft. It has been surprisingly chattering longer than the new part has been installed. The Cat directly below it overheated for some reason and melted the rubber of the inner boot on the little strip outside of the zip-tie clamp. Only reason I noticed was the smell! ...and the smoke xO If this has been an ongoing issue like I thought, the heating could have messed with the grease and the chattering is a omen of future replacement. What length part do you have? EA81 just to confirm right? When do you wish to sell it? If it's the appropriate shaft, I will jump on this as soon as I have the cash.

Does the EA82 CV axle vary for automatic and manual transmissions? Trying to find out if my axle is from a manual car/if it will fit one.

Tell that to my cringingly stretched CV shaft. You all have said that all EA81 compatible shafts will work when I made a thread awhile back on this topic. Fact is my auto zone had 4 different lengths of reman or aftermarket for my car. Most were so long they wouldn't bolt up. And one was too short but I believe that was for an automatic. The one I settled on now is stretched more than the original one my car came with. Don't know what else to say, other than I'll post an update when I find a suitable one.

It's the CV shaft on the top of the last picture (without the tape). -23 Spline, Subaru OEM from a pick and pull. If anyone is interested, I'll accept paypal for shipping! Maybe throw a fiver my way on top I'll take measurements and update within a day or so.

I personally prefer the organic matter model, apintonut. You know, I noticed that out of the 3 slotted holes on my hatch, one had a metal plug with a slightly concave black rubber cap. It slightly moves in when you press it, but that's probably just the rubber. -I wonder what it was for myself, I'm going to investigate. Anyone know where this leads? Through the side of the car or through the firewall? Any panels to remove to see it, or veiwable in the engine bay? I only ask so I have heads up when I go take a look. Thanks!

I had this problem too! I cringe at the thought that I lost my OEM driver's cv as a core to my local shop. By the time I realized my mistake, they couldn't do anything about it. Which is kind of absurd, like they really can't contact their aftermarket part supplier/remanufacturer and hunt it down? They told me they couldn't. The issue with my hatch is it requires a shorter shaft. ALL the shafts at Autozone were too long, or short. Only one fit, but it's about 3/4 of an inch too short and is stretched. First one lasted maybe 5 weeks. It went from a chatter, to (while on the highway) and knocking/thumping as OP described. THAT scared me, but it ran for a while longer. Got my money and compensation back from Autozone, and order one from Rockauto. It was the same length CV shaft ~3/4inch too short. It was cheaper though, so I slapped it in and it hasn't caused me an issue so far. I'm at least 3 weeks in and the last one would have chattered by now. I'm going to try a different CV from RockAuto if this halfshaft breaks down again. >>>Like the other members said, you can ride on the Lifetime Warranties or find an original and "refurbish" it yourself. I have also heard from the forum that EMPI is the better brand. RockAuto.com sells them. One last thing, I have a spare front OEM Subaru CV Shaft, it's not for my hatch but I obviously held onto it. It has two metal rings on the shaft, which indicates which powertrain it is for. I believe EA82?

I know what you can use it for, intimidation Next time you're on a run with someone new to your ride, tell them to buckle up and HANG ON! *Flip* ... *click* *Flip* *click**flip**click* Uhh, the supercharger might need adjustment..

Whether or not it's plausible, I hope that cat is due fro replacement. I'll chop it out and take off the muffler, for now heeheee Emissions testing is 11 months away so I give no f$#ks For the record, the muffler made a noticeable loss of power, and you guys seem to be split on the loss of one cat. I'll post updates as they come

Thanks everyone for the awesome input! I've dealt with a pesky heat shield on my Nissan before, drove me to the point of it. Down the line I regretted it, I guess I nicked the pipe in a spot and that snowballed But sweet relief it was. I'll check it out as soon as I can, which because of nuisance I'll speed up, cold and wet or not. Last time I had it up on the lift, a buddy of mine told me I probably gave it a solid knock while taking it off the trail and broke some particle loose. I cannot deny this claim lol, Ferris Bueller's day off Ferrari scene comes to mind