SnatchedHatch

I was browsing Rockauto for a full timing component kit, as I want my subie to last, but there are over a dozen choices. What do you look out for? Also looking to replace the rear shocks as they are quite soft, Rock doesn't specify Impreza as the OBS wagon (which has at the least taller springs), what are my options in general for that? I'll be throwing the car on a lift soon to see what exactly it needs. Looking to do it all DIY, so I'd like to use some of my savings on quality parts. Thanks, Sam

We're straying off topic of OP's question, but I agree, the basic 80's powertrain was a FWD/locked 4WD high (transfer case) which was AMAZING in winter. The higher end model's had the open diff with a locking diff function as you mentioned. After reading this, I realized how my 98' just can't touch my 87' when it came to ehh Ken Block-esque commutes Closer to topic, if my full-time automatic has slightly jerky shifts (unless you granny it), will that realistically risk kicking out the rear? ...especially on the highway on a bend? Just a little worried, already missing the effectiveness of the manual I had

Thank you, now I understand why one way to test for torque bind is to hit a parking lot and test maneuverability.

Hi, digging this thread up, you seemed to be very knowledgeable on this subject! I recently popped a CEL with code P0453. It signifies the EVAP pressure sensor detected high pressure in the system. I have a 98 EJ2w OBS, any idea what could cause that? I bought a new fuel cap, and then today by chance, found the fuel filler neck while inspecting my rear brakes. I took off a plastic cover to get to it, and found one rubber hose kinked it seems something is a miss as I see two new hose clamps, and the application of a few zip ties in this area. I readjusted the suspected culprit and applied an additional hose clamp to unkink it. Today I'll see how she runs, have to get my emissions done within 2 days. Any advice is greatly appreciated, thanks! -Sam EDIT: Passed my emissions test the following day (today), no CEL. I'll up date with pictures of the hoses near the fuel filler neck in question.

The system had an I.D. of 2.5", sooo I hopped on it. $80 for a low mileage WRX muffler with the mid-pipe sectioned resonator? Called a muffler shop I hadn't used in years, the owner turns out to be a Subie fanatic, trying to sell me his RS rims with Carbide studded winter tires This ride is quickly headed toward /r/Battlewagon The muffler is similar in size/shape and the brackets are almost identical.. can't wait to see what happens. I do prefer the OE quality build, I'll have to see about having it put in so as to fully utilize that.. having it done properly if possible. Thanks guys, but I got this one haha

Also looking at this, but given the 3 inch inlet and outlet, http://chicago.craigslist.org/chc/pts/4679517832.html I've heard it will cause loss of low-end power. Others claim that is nonsense and more flow will not affect performance, I hang on the former. What do you think?

I was going for a better exhaust note! I did notice the can is taller, I don't know if it will fit, although given I have the Outback sport, it will until the body squats. Modifying the flange is not a problem, I have to get the OEM muffler cut off as is.

Found a stock wrx exhaust for extremely cheap with low miles, Would I have back pressure issues using the muffler portion? How would it affect sound? Picture: http://postimg.org/image/vbt3bcgzn/

I'm still trying to understand the effect of torque bind as well, would like to hear about this

If the difference was pennies in cost, it can't hurt right? It would be irresponsibly uneconomical to drive back and return them, not to mention the added pollution to the environment

Will do

The Hatch received a new clutch, machined flywheel, new front DS CV shaft and hub (THANKYOUSOMUUUCH Gloyale Rear drive train is a w.i.p. so currently running it without the rear shafts. Everything else back in after the drive shaft was straightened + refurbished with new u-joints, diff worked over. The engine was not removed to replace the clutch, the trans was pulled. It was rocked back and forth a bit, so the following symptoms.. bad engine mounts? It starts a bit more rough, and immediately with vibrations felt through the car, never before present. They reappear when engaging the clutch and moving the car forward from a stop and at very low speeds. Engine not is now a subtly lower tone, and while it's not drastically slower, I can tell it runs with a bit less power. Anyone have any thoughts on this? Bonus engine bay pic, glad to see my rear end paint job from New Year's holding up extremely well, but sorry no pics of that yet. http://postimg.org/image/9f8csxn17/

#1 was rectified by moving speaker balance slightly to the rear, and more significantly by turning off the ghetto-bass boost feature on the aftrmrkt radio. Now I can totally live with it Tackling #2 tomorrow, let's hope the she.ll come off as easy as they come.

UPDATE on car performance: engine note was a little rough from the start of today, and the shifts had gone from *nothing to report* to slightly jerky overnight. Noon, CEL turned on. Code P0302 popped up, Cyl#2 misfire. Plan on swapping plugs tomorrow, the plug wires look almost new (probably original). Funny thing is.. was driving home an hour ago, and suddenly I noticed the slightly jerky shifting went away.. CEL went away. Plugs and oil tomorrow

I was thinking of RockAuto, due to necessity I would have had to stick with a local source and as you pointed out overpaying significantly. Plugs: I heard otherwise from somebody today, and I was hoping to find likewise advice from all the great open-minded members . When it comes to straying from O.E. spec, it's not a good idea such as if your car's stock choice is something as advanced as Iridium. ..buuut the OE plugs are basic copper tops. Was told waste-spark can use up copper tops quite rapidly, depending on the system, and upgrading to Platinum tips can resist such force. My Subie seems to have 2 ignition coils for 4 plugs, so I think the upgrade would have merit here, anyone have experience with the EJ22's plug use? Well.. I was also worried that upgrading from something as basic as copper can have adverse negative effects, as switching from OE iridium can cause misfiring. I bought the NGK G power Plat, since they were about 15 cents more per plugs than the NGK copper tips.

So.. Autozone quoted me at $270 and ~$330 for a full kit: pulley's, pump, tensioner, belt Plugs are cheap, I was going to go with NGK's OE spec plugs, those are just copper tips. Any benefit or sense in upgrading the plugs?

I did not mean to imply I was skimping on the timing belt, and come on give a Subie guy more credit.. we all know the dangers of a bad timing belt. I should have said the previous owner was not informed and as such could not confirm for me, poor choice of wording on my part. Thank you for the link, I did plan on doing a tune-up regardless. The pulley's and pump hopefully in this week. Was recommended Loctite 518, any experience with it Ad~Sub?

Off to Walmart to grab some Sony's, coolant, got oil, aaaand got a winter set in the works off of Craigslist. I'm on the fence on this whole Polar artic winter from hell, irony is harsh mistress. Shox can wait, I'll take a stab at the windows, have all of the above in stock

Belacane assimilated EDIT: I got that SOB/OBS, best decision I've made this year

It makes it.. Stronger..much like its brothers. One.. of.. us.. ONE...

So.. I'm back in with you guys, funny how that worked out. Wasn't looking for a Subaru, but I couldn't pass this one up If RallyAlex is reading this, sorry bud! As much as I hate to, had to pass on the White Lightning wagon :/ I almost regret that decision, but hey I was about to buy a Toyota SR5 truck, didn't expect to jump back two decades, I have to be weened back on the Subitol I have to point out, this is my 100th post, coming with my second Subie, THAT'S how it's done Thank you all for all the help thus far, Best garddarn forum on the globe! I'll be working through a few minor issues, and scowering the forum for information as usual. I'll go ahead and drop the topics, in case anyone would like to chime in 1/7 Blown driver's door speaker 2/7 one rear window is slow going back up (auto windows), wind noise on the highway (frameless doors yay, gotta love'em gotta hate'em) I've heard of lubing up the window rollers. Would cleaning and conditioning the seals for the doors and windows help? 3/7 Rear diff had oil splotch, how do I go about checking the oil level? 4/7 Plan on replacing the rear spring/strut assemblies. ...Monroe aftermarket, or pick and pull? The former is decently cheap. 5/7 Horn is going out, luckily I still have my low-tone I was going to use to upgrade mee Mazda3. 6/7 One rust spot near the rear wheel well, NEED to take care of that asap. 7/7 Full tune-up, timing belt might be original. Car starts everytime but the first crank struggles.. like *du-duuuuh vroom* like if it lacked the energy to turn over. I imagine a fresh set of plugs, and the timing belt and oil change should take care of this. Coolant flush ASAP, brake bleed seems in order as well. ~A little TLC and some SeaFoam never hurts, That seems to be all folks!

Hi! Welcome to the last Subaru place you'll ever have to look! I think I will take you up on your offer to ask, what's the best way to do with a small spot of deep rust? Just got a 98' Impreza, it has a tangerine sized spot of rust on the back othe rear wheel well. I imagine if I grind it, and prime and coat it, it will leave a gaping hole :S I'll post a picture once I have a chance, Thanks in advance Denny

--SOLD--

I did read, while hunting for a diff leak thread, that it could be oil splashing out. They rec'd checking the Diff oil level as well, not at all familiar with doing this! haha is there an hourglass port, or a plug, or a.. ehmm no dip stick I take it?