joe5

I went by autozone, they didn't have any fuel filters and said they couldn't even order any . So i guess I gotta look elsewhere. @DaveT I did loan out a fuel pressure gauge. See picture to make sure I did it right. Its connected between the indash fuel filter and the carb. With key in ON position, it increases from 0 to ~3-4 psi. Turning car on, it stays the same, whether idling or revved up high. I used a steep hill to try to recreate the problem and but was able to start up hill fine. Always tough to recreate an intermitent problem. But even over 4k RPM starting up hill psi stays at 3-4. Goes back down to zero when I cut motor off. I've attached some pictures to show how I had fuel guage set up, since I've not done it before to make sure I'm not doing it wrong. 3-4 psi seems pretty low to me. @naru2 I couldn't see the carb sight glass, but I've not spent too much time messing with carbs so not sure exactly what to look for.

No I haven't. Car finally proved it needed to be looked at so today is my first opportunity to start looking at it. Is this it?

Thanks for quick response. I'll have to pick up a pressure gauge later today. Where should I put it? Between fuel filter and motor? So your thinking that the fuel pump might be bad? What do you think about the part that it mostly happens on inclines?

I have an 1983 ea81 wagon. I daily drive it to work, but it has now broke down on me 2 different times at the same spot. Stuck in traffic up a steep hill and car dies when I let off clutch and won't restart. Both times I backed down hill to flat spot to get out of traffic and it still wont start for 3-5min and then eventually it will. I can hear that its trying to turn over but its almost as if its not getting fuel. I don't know to much about carbs, but is it possible that its getting flooded when I'm on a steep incline?

Thanks everyone for the input. Nice to see a general consensus here, a clutch is a much better problem to solve. I guess I wasn't suspecting the clutch because it was brand new and I hadn't been doing anything crazy. But my friend pointed out that if the clutch cable was too tight it could have been wearing the clutch down really fast just cruising down the road without me noticing that it was slipping. And I'll admit I didn't pay much attention to the clutch cable after installing it. I towed the car down from asheville to my new place in Georgia. I'll pull the motor in a few days and update the thread, but hopefully it is indeed the clutch as everyone is suggesting.

I just made a big road trip in my GL from Oregon to Georgia but the tranny ultimately died in NC. I first noticed issues as I was in 5th gear cruising and suddenly I noticed that the RPMs went really high but I was slowing down. It was as if I was in neutral, although I was clearly in the 5th gear position and the clutch was still needed to move it in and out. I down shifted into 4th and was able to get driving again. I pull over and see that the tranny oil is low, but I am in a pretty remote area of southern appalachia at this point and didn't have a place to buy more oil. Just trying to make it to the next town, but going over the mountains, the rest of the gears went pretty quick soon after, although with some really bad screaching sounds. I got towed the rest of the way to Asheville where I have some family. Now with more fluid in it, the shifter will go into all positions, but it is as if its in neutral at all times, although as before, the clutch is still needed to get in and out of each gear. I have already listed a post in the parts wanted for a new tranny, but is there anything I can do to revive the one I have? Any suggestions on my options to fix this transmission or leads on one I could buy when I'm back in oregon next week would be appreciated. thanks

Keep in mind that this is only true for the XT- 4cylinders. On the XT6 however, essentially everything is unique. People generally are referring specifically to the 4 cylinder when they say XT, but sometimes people use it more broadly so just wanted to clarify grossgary's point. You can find a way to keep an XT4 running using parts from other subaru's, but you will really really struggle to find the things you need for an XT6.

the fluid looks like power steering but not if sure thats what the hose would go to though

I'm not too familiar with the Sambar so I can't offer specific information on that swap. But keep in mind that Justy's are also pretty rare. If you are going to the trouble to do a swap, why not try to use a more modern motor (ie ej series). You can find them for ~500, and parts will be readily available looking ahead to the future.

Did you get the timing belt covers all the way off and look at the idlers? I just ask cuz one time I had an issue where an idler fell apart. Since the covers are such a pain in the butt to get off, I took off a few and flexed the plastic back and saw belt was not broken and moved on looking at other things. However I mislead myself by not getting the cover all the way off to see the roasted idler, which effectively made the belt looser and was the source of my problems, which sound similar but not necessarily identical to yours. May be something else, but just thought I'd ask about that since I was once deceived myself.

nice find. was that the one that was on the coast? I got an xt6 parts car that still has the tranny and matching diff in it if your decide to go that route. Although I can't verify their condition I'd sell em for a cheap price that reflects that.

Having sold and bought a few ea82 wagons, and watched a bunch more come and go on craigslist over the past few years, Here is a ballpark on what ea82 cars SELL for in the PNW - 0-500: Not running or wrecked -500-1K: rough condition but running -1k-1.5k: Generally good condition and running well 1/5-2k: Sometimes one in uniquely good condition goes in this ball park Very very rarely do ea82 wagons sell for more than 2K, although it can happen. They are exceptional. 85k is very low mileage, but mileage alone isn't really enough for 2k. Especially as it sounds like there is front end damage. The AT also reduces value (and functionality, that tranny has a lifespan on it for sure). I think its easy to buy a car at the most expensive end of the price range thinking you will be able to avoid maintenance costs, which may be true but isn't a safe bet. Some parts such as gaskets and seals wear or crack with time even if parked in a garage. I'd make sure you have money left over after you buy the car so your prepared if something does fail. The car may indeed be worth it, but just know your looking at the higher end of the price range for these cars. The condition should truly be superb. If not, buy a cheaper one and use your extra money to do fix any known problems. Just my 2 cents.

Rather than dump a bunch of money into an ea82, I would do the bare minimum to get back on the road to hold you over until you can afford an ej swap. If your ea82 craps out on ya before you can fund an ej swap, you can usually find runner ea82s on craigslist for 100-200 bucks outta parts cars. Just pop another runner in. Just my opinion to balance your short term budget with your long term goal of have a reliable car.

cover all your bases and just tow the parts car behind you

buy it. once you get it fixed you can drive up to corvallis and show it off. A friend and I have a few xt6 projects we are working on over the summer so your car would be well apprecaited just 40 minutes down the road!

Since your grill trim is torn up, go ahead and rip it the rest of the way off. The hood release mechanism is right behind the subaru badge on your grill trim. Once your in there, the hood can then be opened if you take off a few bolts that hold the latch mechanism to the underside of the hood. Or alternatively, you can detatch the bottom side of the latch mechanism where it mounts in front of the radiator. I've done this when my hood release cable broke. Its quick and easy. No special equipement needed just a 14mm socket (I think its a 14 anyway) Kind of cool to see how the hood took most of the crunch. The front side panel looks decently straight. If your car is running fine, who knows. Maybe all you need is a new hood and some trim on the front

you gotta be more specific for what you want. The cost of a "swap" can vary by a huge amount based on where you get parts and who does the work. whether it is worth it depends on what you want out of the car. If you get a motor from a wrx or sti, plan on spending several thousand more than if you buy a 90-94 legacy for 1k and use it to source your parts.

just out of curiosity, why 80-83, but not 84?

still surprised it was the axle but glad someone who knows better was able to help figure it all out. So i guess the joint became "dislocated"?

Well hopefully someone who knows more than me will chime in, but I really doubt thats an axle. I'm not positive but pretty sure that if one axle broke the other would loose drive also. Do both wheels turn when you give it gas (it'd need to be up on blocks). I'd be more suspect of something like a ball joint or tie rod end. But again, hopefully someone else will pipe up and know rather than speculate.

I wouldn't hobble to the parts store until you know what broke. Did you look under both sides of the car or just the side with suspect axle? If you think one of the tires has excessive play, it'd be worth it to get the front of the ground and shake each tire to see which one. That'd be the best place to start.

Cool thread. One random quesiton...how'd you do the roof rack? When ive looked at places online their vehicle searches usually don't go 88 or recognize xt6 at all. I'm on the look out for one that will work for my xt6

nice looking rigs!

ah gotcha. OP: u should email VW headquarters for some creative suggestions

I'm surprised that you even have to pass deq with your brat. Isn't old enough to be exempt?