joe5

So after running reliably for almost a year now, I let my buddy borrow my car for the weekend (92 loyale). He says after filling up and gettting up to speed on the highway, it sputtered real quick, spit out a puff of smoke, and the engine died and now won't start. I'm not at the car, so I'm limited in details but are there any obvious cultprits?? haha poor dude's on the side of the road right now.

So to be clear, this picture is NOT of my car, its from that awesome wheel bearing thread that another board member posted. But it happens to very nicely point out the bolt I'm talking about with the red arrow. The bolt doesn't go all the way threw and is sitting crooked, and the bottom of the strut is actually resting on the axle.

Hi there, so I was looking under the car and saw that on one of the rear struts, the lower bolt is only half way through Yikes!!! (goes in one side and through the strut but doesnt make it into the threads on the welded nut on the other side, iso the bolt is in at an angle and pinching the bushing pretty good). I dont have a spring compressor. I was thinking of taking the rear axle out, putting a jack under the strut and pushing up on it until i can get the bolt lined up with the threads. Since the top of the strut is mounted in place, it should work right? Just thought i'd run this by the forum in case this is a bad idea, and open up the opportunity to hear hopefully better ideas if they exist. thanks!

no there aren't drain holes. I had a 1/2 full tank, so when I pulled one of the hoses (not sure what to call it), fuel came out because the tank had so much gas in it. But its not even on the bottom of the tank. I pulled the hose in the process of pulling the tank out, but when I saw it looked clean I turned around.

check the retrofitting section of the message board. there is ton of info. Somewhat easy in the since that lots of people have don e itso you don't have to be a pioneer. But not as easy as just bolting in, you gotta have adapter palte, figure out wiring, etc. it will certainly cost you more than the price of the motor, either in time or cash.

so super weird...I was pulling the gas tank and before I fully committed I collected some of the fuel in a plastic bottle from a one of the front facing ports after a pulled one of the hoses (with the tank loose I tilted it so gas came out). It looks pretty clean Not sure why it was so dirty out when it came out next to the fuel filter. Maybe its coming from the lines? I think I'll just bolt the tank back up, try swapping the filter and see how that goes...

Thanks for all the feed back. Yea it seems like the general concept of how to clean it is established. I like the ideas of putting vinegar because its acidic and should help solubilize iron..HCL does the trick too but then I gotta deal with concentrated acid...I think I'll go for a combo of the pebble/chain route + vinegar. but have any of you cleaned out a tank and reinstall, only to find out later that the tank was too far gone? I'm hoping to take it on a few day trip in eastern oregon in a week. I'm just worried that if its been compromised from the rust, even if its clean maybe its weaker? I'd just hate to be out in the desert and have a hole develop in the tank and loose all my fuel in the middle of no where and be in the awkward situation of deciding whose gonna eat who to survive haha. So just to specify my question: After cleaning, is there anything to look for that may indicate whether it'll be solid or not (beyond something super obvious like a hole).

Hey there I could use some input here. I've got an 87 gl10 that I just swapped in an ej18. Everything is running pretty good just working out lots of little things. Looks like I got a rusty gas tank. Here's the back story. it was one of those days I guess haha...I set out to install the electric fan, I didn't know exactly which wire went where and set out to figure it out. When I was letting the car warm up, I started smelling fuel...like allot of fuel...I saw a big puddle accumulating and found that the fuel hose coming from the firewall to the fuel filter was cracked and leaking pretty bad. No big deal...I had a spare one sitting around so I depressurized the fuel system and took the hose off. When I did the gas that squirted out of the hose was SUPER dirty and brown, looks very rusty. It makes since, because before I bought the car it sat for several years. I read on a previous threads ways to clean out the gas tank (chain or ball bearings with multiply rinses). I also saw it was recommended to take the cleaned tank to a radiator shop and have it resealed. I called the local shop and they said it would cost ~170 bucks So my question is this...If I drop the tank and clean it out, could I 1) look for specific characteristics that indicate whether a seal is actually needed? 2) If it really needs to be resealed, can I do it myself? The guy at the shop warned me against it but maybe there is trick? Not looking to spend 170 to fix the tank, I'd just buy a new one at that piont but I'm a cheap SOB. What are the CHEAP ways of taking care of this thanks!

I'm pretty sure that the 24 spline count goes for 4wd while the 21 is for 2wd

not sure where your located but if ALL you want from the car is the tranny, I'd at least check around cuz I'd hope you could find one by itself for cheaper. But if you can get other good parts out of it than go fer it!

Naysayer! and doing it for a jeep too! Sounds like treason to me jk haha but nah its all good. I feel ya, it'd be nice if things were worked out more before making the big commitment to get over there. A later start time would make it easier for out of towners for sure. Who knows, if some momentum picks up i'd still do it!

But dang...6am is pretty early. That makes it tough to get there from a distance

I say we create some momentum! I'm gonna do it and I'm tryin to get people pumped about it too!

This looks like the link for registering...so I guess you gotta register haha... http://steevano61.wix.com/warrenrallysport#!record/c1us

Any tips on threading the new cable through if the broken one has already been yanked out?

He is on the board, his user name is Gloyale and he is pretty active. You can find him on lots of different threads. And your question about the lift is relevant and a good one but not super applicable to my personal experience. I recruited him specifically for help with wiring up the ej motor (he ended up helping me allot straighten many little things while he was at it). But he didn't install a lift on my rig, although as some else already stated he can help you with that too if you want. Also as previously discussed, if your lift is done right you shouldn't have the problems your concerned about. He may be able to help you with cosmetic stuff too. I saw a brat he restored a few months ago and it came out looking super fly. But I'd say just hunt his profile, as well as other members who can do this for you, and try to get in direct contact with them. They will do a better job vouching what they can do than we can. Probably address allot of your questions more accurately too. Good luck with it and look forward to seeing how it turns out!

Sounds like a super cool project! Since your willing to drive it somewhere, you should consider Gloyale here in oregon. He just helped me with my ej swap last week and things went great. He's got a little subaru shop here in corvallis, and has done ej swaps a bunch of times so you'd be getting someone who's experienced and has all the resources. So he wouldn't just be doing it in his backyard, he's got a proper shop to work in. There's a good handful of people who are capable on the board. It'd probably be ideal to talk to each of them. Gives you a cool opportunity to shop around a bit and see who can help ya out the best for what your trying to do. Just wanted to add gloyales name to the list of people you should consider since things went so well for me. and just my 0.02: ej swapped brat > 25k tacoma anyday!

sounds like an ej18. It should be stamped on top of the block. You could always post a pic too.

Yea I wanna sell it just wanted to consult the forum here so I can make sure I'm giving the buyer the clutch they think they are getting. If it'll work for ya just pm me and we can work out a price and a way to get it to ya.

yea I found this list also...but I'm skeptical that it can fit all those models. How could it universally fit all of those cars? Gloyale is tellin me its probably for 2wd cars only. Definitely looks smaller than the one I've put on my 4wd ea82 cars but why wouldn't this be specified in the listing?

And not the best reference for scale, but for what its worth there is a dime on the right side of the picture of the clutch.

I have a brand new clutch that came with a car I bought that I don't need. Hoping to sell it to recoup some money I put into the car. The problem is...I'm not sure what car it fits so I know what to post on any add. The part number is Sachs KF599-01. When I search that part number, it lists everything from later year brats, gl, gl10, xt, loyales and dls. How can this be when these cars have different tranny's and spline counts? So I figured the board may be a more reliable source? From my eyeballs, it looks a bit smaller than I recall putting into my manual loyale and gls. The box its in is pretty beat up even though the clutch is unused. Is there a way to verify that the clutch I have actually goes with the box? (They likely do but I'd like to be sure) At least the spline count is correct (21). I've posted a few pics here

yup, been there done that. I think most of us end up fighting a stripped exhaust stud at some point or another. Hope you can find a cheap way to work it all out.

could you just snag another intake a jy? Probably less than machining the one you got

So this summer after my first head gasket job, I was loosing coolant and couldn't see where. No puddles, no dripping but the coolant was definitely going somewhere. It turned out to be a tiny coolant line running from the intake to the block, possible the same one 175eya is referencing. It would leak out onto the top of the block and cook off so thats why I never saw any dripping. Cross your fingers for this being the problem, as it was a 2-3 dollar 5 minute fix.