joe5

I lifted the front of the car using the jackpoints on the side (between the two half circles) and set the jack stands on the bar that runs lengthwise of the car and gradually gets smaller just front of the jack points. I'm fighting the uploader to get picture up...Hopefully I'll get one up later. And, regarding rust, its somewhat rusty but it seems typically of a car its age. I wouldn't consider it having an extreme amount of rust but maybe just the right amount of rust in just the right places?

Problem solved! - not sure what the problem was...but I set the car down on the ground and now the hood can close... maybe that just helped things wiggle around and got the motor seated a little better? But anyway thanks for your time if you read the post!

I am putting the original ea82 BACK into my loyale after doing head gaskets timing belt etc. Nothing special about this job, and so I must be doing something wrong. But I'm a newbie in a bind just looking for some helpful advice please.

Hi all, I am installing an ea82 into my 92 loyale. I have followed Miles Fox videos which have been a great help. I'm almost there but after installing the motor, it is sitting too high. Like the hood can't quit close. I got the bellhousing hooked back up nicely and the motor mounts made it through the holes. I even have the nuts on the motor mounts on. I have lifted the tranmission/engine back off the cross-member to look for anything that may be in the way but don't see anything. Hopefully this is something simple and stupid I'm missing but I'm worried something is Fd up...How is it possible for the motor to be sitting and tightened onto the crossmember and still be too high? Perhaps I have a freak motor that devours my time as an energy source to physically grow taller...Has anyone one experienced this or have any insight into the problem? Thanks in advance!

ha yea I dug up an old one here. Thanks for the response, we are about to go on a road trip so i'll be sure to keep an extra set with me So given you keep an extra set with you, have you had any timing belt/tensioner failures you attribute to not having the covers?

So when you guys say no covers, are you ditching all of them, or just the ones in front of the belts? I'm thinking of getting mine out of the way too...

Yea the problem is I'm not very experienced and things that might be obvious to the veterans out there aren't so obvious to me. For example, I discovered this morning that I put the cam towers on without the cam tower o-rings . (At least this gives me an opportunity to go with subaru o-rings here rather than the felpro as you suggested). So a list itemizing the parts of the kit would help me out, even if I do end up dumping some of the parts. Surely such a list must exist so somebody knows what to put into the box.

Hi there, I am doing the head gaskets and out on my ea82. I bought the felpro gasket kit Fel-Pro HS9392PT-2 HEAD SET I recognize about half the parts that came in the kit and am scratching my head on the rest. I assumed I'd get a detailed description with the package but alas, there was none. I have also been unable to find detailed info online. maybe Im just handicapped at googling... Has anyone used this kit or can direct me to a detailed list of all the components? Maybe this has already been covered in the forums but I wasn't able to find anything as detailed as I hoped. Thanks in advance!

Hey there thanks for an awesome post. I am doing my headgaskets for the first time on my ea82 and used this approach. Here is my set up. I used a spray on cement to help keep the adhesive evenly distributed. This is where I started Somewhere in the middle FInal product after swapping to 320 finish I measured it with feeler gauges and it is now within spec. Any tips how to deal with the block or should it be left alone after removing gasket material? Some of that material is on there pretty good...

Yea but while the bearing may have failed on the jy car i pulled the drum from, the wheel bearing is brand new on my car as I just replaced it. So I have no reason to think there is problem with my bearing or hardware (yet ha, unless my jy brake drum changes that situation...which is what im getting at with my question).

Cool guys thanks for the quick feedback. So regarding the "$60-$80 ebay kits". The first one I see on the list is http://www.ebay.com/itm/85-94-1-8L-SUBARU-1800-GL-Loyale-RX-XT-NON-TUR-TURBO-TIMING-BELT-KIT-EA82T-/400176384460?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Make%3ASubaru%7CModel%3ALoyale&hash=item5d2c5f09cc&vxp=mtr So for timing belts its not critical to get the pricey ones? The price difference is huge between the cheap ebay ones and others that are sometimes double that. I'd just hate to have a cheap one fail prematurely but if you guys have good experience with cheaper ones its an easy sell. Are there any brands I should straight up avoid?

So although the wear on the drum indicates the previous car had some issue (failed wheel bearing or loose axle nut), is it likely to be the source of a future issue?

So I got the drum and threw it on the car just to get things moving but it has some wear that's got me a little concerned... It has some abnormal wear on the outside of the part that fits the spindle (sorry I don't what that parts called). I should have taken a picture of the actual brake drum but I did make this little picture to show what I'm talking about. http://s1248.photobucket.com/user/sextond1/media/brakedrum_zpsd903a420.jpg.html?sort=3&o=5 The surface where the red arrow is pointing is worn down allot. Is this a big deal? It still seats on spindle fine and ive drove it around a day or two with no problems, I just wonder if this surface is important for keeping brake dust out of the wheel bearing and I've created a future problem for myself...

Hey everyone I am relatively new to the forum, glad this is here you are all awesome resources for a new DIYer. I pulled the motor from my 92 loyale after it was making a weird clicking/grinding sound (now realizing I probably didn't need to pull it but whatever), after taking the timing covers off, I see that drivers side tensioner pulley is destroyed while the passenger side looks great. I don't know the detailed history of the car, but the timing belts aren't cracked or frayed which suggests to me they are not that old. The drivers side belt is noticeably worn probably because of the bad tensioner pulley. So I plan on doing the timing belts and replacing the tensioner pulleys on both sides just for good measure but my question is this. Assuming the timing belts were done in the not so distant past, is there an underlying cause for this pulley failing prematurely that I should address before repairing it? Or could it just be a cheap part that failed because its cheap? Secondly, I have found little shards of metal which scrapped out of the pulley and were sitting at the bottom of the timing covers. Is there anything else that could have been damaged because of this that I should take care to inspect closely before everything gets put back together? Picture of timing belts, with the one on the right in visibly bad condition relative to the one on the right Close up of the good one... Close up of the bad one... And the weird little metal shards...yikes! Thanks in advance!

Thanks for the quick response. Yea the GL is an 87, non turbo. Not sure about whether its an ea82 or 81... I'll make sure its an ea82 when I go back to the yard today before I take the drums.

Hey there I'm new to the forum (and working on cars in general). I need a replacement rear brake drum for my 4WD 92 loyale. The local junkyard only has 2WD loyales right now so the drums won't work. However, they do have a GL on the lot. Will the GL brake drum fit my loyale? Thanks in advance. Joe