willwright

You should go buy a lottery tickets while your so lucky lol. If it were me , and you bought the whole timing kit and one parts already failed. I would first see if then seller will help you out. 90% of eBay sellers are good sellers and usually make good on 90 days or less on new parts. If not, I am one of those for genuine Subaru parts on something like this, however, everyone on seems to be very comfortable with Gates timing kits and aisin water pumps from ebay . About 80 dollar difference in price between dealer and gates seems to be. But long story short, do the while kit while your there. May not dodge the next bullet so to speak.

Most likely low on freon. Has to have enough pressure for pressure switch to send voltage to the clutch switch. You can pick up a cheap gauge at any parts store or even some cans now come with a small gauge. They won't read high side pressure but will read low pressure side which is good enough for general recharging if you have a slow minor leak in the system.

glad to hear you got it fixed, my point about the grounds and compared to old dodge trucks was making sure all grounds were there. Wasn't saying they were the same lil. In should have made myself more clear about that, sorry if it sounded different.

I type cam but my ignorant phone changes spelling, I promise I'm not tarded lol. But yes , put your feeler gauge between top of valve stem and where rocker contacts it. You want to feel a drag just like adjusting spark plug gap or something similar. The tolerances are actually on intake .007-.009 and Exaughst .009-.011 so I set mine in the middle of both so don't fret much over having it so perfect , as long as they are within those tolerances.

Carpets in all vehicles are generally put down with a light upholstery adhesive that is water resistant. Beat way to start is remove seats and the trim work / console and it generally crimes out fairly easy from there. Learn how to remove these items on donor car so you don't break anything on yours taking trim and stuff up. I am a fairly new subie owner myself so not sure what yrs the interiors are the same. I have dome many trucks and SUV's this same way so all in all the process is the same. Hopefully someone with more experience in bodies and interior knowledge will chime in with what yrs will match up. Sorry for some of my spelling, stupid phone thinks its smarter than I am correcting things I shorten lol

You answered your own question . Cheapest way is din or car, if the carpet in it isn't torn to shreds, take it out and pressure wash it and re- dye it. Or if you have money to burn, new fitted carpet. Seats are a dime a dozen if you can find a donor that the glass hasn't been out of too awful long and in good shape. Same car donor carpet comes out of even better. No mismatching then.

It wouldn't take you but a couple minutes to pull the gas line off and cycle the key to see if its pumping at all when it gives you the problem. First thing that comes to my mind is weak fuel pump or water in lines but if it was that much water you should have other signs before it was enough in there to freeze a line up I would think. When you say " turn it off" do you mean it will not start again immediately or do you mean once it cools down a while and then you have to wait til it warms up above 25 again?

If you don't feel comfortable then don't do it, but to answer the question, no, you don't have to so the whole door unless you messed up the whole door and you would have really had to be trying to do that lol. Anyways, thats why I said you do a few inches around it as well and then once its dried a few hours, wet sand it smooth with 2000 grit paper and buff it out with fine cut Maguires finishing wax. Most are intimidated by simple body work, but I assure you, if this dumb hillbilly can do it, anyone can

No special tools needed. A flat tip screwdriver and I think 10 mm wrench if I recall correctly and a feller gauge, an angled one is best, 5 bucks or less at parts store. Can't rmemeber you engine size but here goes for 2.5. Sohc. Assuming heads are back on and its already in time and valve covers are off. Left timing cover , right side if your facing engine) is off so you can see can sprocket! Align the arrow on left timing sprocket with notch on timing belt cover, yes , we are using the arrow this time, not the timing notch on the sprocket!!! That puts your no. 1 cyl at top dead center. Now, use your feeler gauge and measure or see what your intake and Exaughst are at. Do this by sliding the blades between the rocker and the valve stem!!I set my intake 2001-2005 non turbo 2.5 Sohc) to .008 Exaughst at .010. .... do this by loosening the lock nut and turn the adjuster with screwdriver. You want feeler gauge to feel drag but not forced. Now, tighten locknut and recheck to make sure they didn't move when tightening locknut!!!!!! Now rotate crankshaft 180 deg, can shaft will only mover 90 , in clockwise rotation. Now tour ready to do the number 3 cylinder. Get it adjusted same as cylinder 1. Now once that one is set, rotate 180 again, can moves 90 deg. Do the number 2 cylinder, when finished with it, move crank another 180. Can only moves 90 of course and do number 4 cylinder. I always rotate engine a few times and recheck them all again toake triple sure. But that is how you adjust valves on a 2000-2005 non turbo Sohc Subaru. Someone check me to make sure I didn't leave anything out please!!!

OK, something I know a bit about . You would have had to do a bit of sanding to remove all the clear coat. It is possible if you stayed on the spot for a while, however, goto your local parts store and grab yourself some fine cut Maguires polishing compound and see if you can buff it out. You may be surprised! Depending on how large the spot is, you can also buy a small rattle can ( spray can) of clear coat and fix it yourself! All you do is get some 1000 geit sandpaper for wet sanding. Wet sand an area about 6 inches around it. Clean it real good with some dawn dish soap to remove any wax or grease or road film. Then spray even smooth stokes with the clear coat. Let it dry 10 minutes then another coat. When your done, get some 2000 grits and go over it after it dries a few hours. Then with your fine cut Maguires compound, buff it out.

I second, third , or 4th you can use aftermarket oil filters but do as suggested and stick with the better ones. If a person was so inclined and was over worried about it, you could spend money and change just the filter between oil changes. Now , for the early oil change question, I did a full rebuild 18k miles ago now and I learned a lesson , do NOT change it early, I had a heck of a time getting mine to break in because I did it first at 150 and then 500 because I was being overly cautious. Mine didn't break in and was burning some oil until I went with conventional ( non synthetic) and left it in there for 5000 miles. I did change filter on it at 2500 when I did that. Subaru has a built in bypass that opens up if oil filter gets plugged up. That's a good thing as it won't let engine starve for oil , but,if its to the point filter is plugged and by pass opens, your running dirty oil / debris through your engine. Drain plug crush rings are cheap enough, I change mine every 3 or 4 oil changes just so I don't chance an occasional drip. The coolant conditioner is basically a stop leak more than anything and is only about 3 bucks from Subaru. Cheap insurance I guess for any small leak trying to develop. I now run mobile 1 full synthetic in mine after I finally got it to break in. Welcome aboard USMB and have fun with your new subie. You will be very impressed with its awd system. I live in Colorado and its actually hard to make mine spin a tire or slip in the snow. We love ours. 2003 outback wagon.

If rpm's are going up smoothly and its not sputtering or cutting out then its slipping. Pull tranny stick and give it a smell and look at the color. Does it smell burnt or off color? If its slipping, the clutches inside will grip better when they cool off just a bit , when they get hot , they slip even worse. If it is slipping the fluid will smell burnt , not sweet and clean looking like new does.

So glad to hear it doing great now. I sometimes thought my subie just liked the extra attention it gets from me pet it for a while and it stops trying to bite you lol.

Steam and not overheating makes me think coolant mix is off, water boils at 212 but won't show your over heating. My first guess would be make sure your at 50/50 mix on the coolant.

Just any hoses etc having to do with your pcv and egr as it looks like you've covered about everything else. My 03 isn't turbo and by far is no powerhouse but mines a manual tranny and it does plenty enough power up and down the mountain pass every day of the week. I have driven turbo ones that seem to have a bit of pep to them. Hoping you have it straightened out. Mine sure don't like anything being off that's for sure.

Never mind , we must have been tyoung at same time lol. Looks lime your golden then on the compression. Vaccum sounds right at sea level. Fuel pressure looks real good as well. How did it run since your last test drive when it done well? Feel free to give me a call at 719-238-0917 if u want.

Ej22 is looking like suppose to be around 170, if your test is correct you're only 1/2 of what it should be

OK, a search on Google several places are saying around 140 on the ej18. I'm hoping your test was incorrect or something wasn't reading right. Hopefully someone who knows that engine ( if this is what you have) will chime in with what compression should be.

Not sure what engine you have but the 2.5 is 156-185 psi. Did you squirt a little oil in each cylinder to see if compression would come up as well? If you used oil in cylinders and compression comes up a lit then compression rings are worn out. If its slow to build compression its a sign of valves not sealing. 75-80 is at least even but sounds pretty low to me but don't take that to the bank because I'm not sure what engine you have.

Bud I would try pressure testing the cylinders first before pulling the heads. I would hate to see you spend the money and the work involved without pressure treating them first but its totally your option. Grab a chiltins Manuel or Haynes from one of the parts stores for 25 bucks or less , they have nice illustrated instructions if you choose to go ahead with pulling the heads off.

Possible break in the wire that cinnwxts to the sensor wire? The wires from harness in other words?

Coolant leak and system low on coolant is one thing, over heating combined with an overflowing / full overflow bottle is another. Guess we will all see. Hope its not a zebra

Man, I'm so glad that has never happened to any of us before lol

Do the number 1 cylinder first at top dead center, and your timing mark should be I'm its correct position. Both valves should be closed , adjust those and then move to cylinder 3 and do it same way, followed by cylinder 2 and last 4. Your basically adjusting them in their firing order . Once all adjusted, pressurize the cylinders one at a time in same order and see if they hold.

Turn the crank so when both valves are suppose to be closed on compression stroke and adjust intake and Exaughst , tighten lock nut and move to next cylinder.if this is the 2.5 I set my intake at 0.008 and Exaughst at 0.010