willwright

Generally speaking, if one end is connected to the body, then the other will connect to engine and vice versa, I have seen old dodge trucks require a ground to frame and an ground to body from engine.. wish my book had your yrs model included but you could sneak a peek at one at auto zone or invest 29 bucks in the book and have a very valuable resource in your hands.

Another idea is drill a hole through the rod and put a washer and cotter pin in it

Clean the heck out of that egr and all that's related to it if its as bad as you say. That's one thing I don't really like about the Subaru is the fact they don't like anything to be out of whack so to speak. When something is wring, it seems there is no golden bullet, its a allow process of elimination and one thing wrong seems to throw a code for something else because that part is not working correctly. When we finally get them figured out there is nothing that rums better or smoother than these subies. Don't give up on it or get frustrated, eliminate one thing at a time and we will figure it out.

Pressure test each cylinder, roll where both valves are supposed to be closed and see if they will hold pressure or if they will hold at all. If not, either bent valves, burnt valves or head gasket. That would let you rules out valve or head gasket issues. I would do a valve adjustment first then pressure check each cylinder like I said.

2 thumbs up from me, buy a car, fix it how you want it and owing no money on it. Great project and look forward to seeing your progress.

Well the good news is I would dare say if it hasn't refilled and overflowed coolant reservoir again then it may very well NOT be the head gaskets. When my ej25 was doing it , it would do it worse some days more than others however strange that seems. But within a couple days it would become low because it would push out more coolant into overflow than it would take back in. However, about every 30-45 seconds I would about 3 or 4 tiny bubbles in my overflow, I had to really not take my eyes off of it or I would miss them. Mine never overheated because I guess I am a gauge watcher more than a road watcher lol. I doubt you will havebtoo such trouble with crank bolt even using lock tight. I loosen all my bolts with an impact but I never tighten with it so that's an option.

Well I was hesitant to say it because it is the 22 but, he heard the fans running so we know they are working , coolant bottle was full and ( may) have spilled over, was fine rest of way home but has since most more coolant but didn't say if overflow was full again, only said it was low again, has noticed its been idling a little rough and it is due ( another ) timing belt change. I guess I'm assuming a bit but I'm think close to 200k on it???? Or maybe Im reading too much into it. Either way I hope not head gaskets but I don't think belt would ever be slack enough to slip and not drive water pump enough without jumping more than a tooth or 2 in as many weeks. Coolant is going somewhere if its been low twice. Guess I could go the route of thermostat sticking some and pushing coolant out of overflow , but, he didn't say its been overheating enough to do so. I'm not arguing at all just thinking out loud lol.

If your going to do the. Clutch, reseal the separator plates on the back of the engine. Would be a great time to do valve covers and timing set if it hasn't been done in a while. Along with timing set , do front crankshaft seal and can seals. My point is , your already there, reseal it , do timing set , put your clutch in and enjoy it for many more leak free miles. P.s.... do oil pump o rung and reseal while your there.

I'm going to put my money on headgakset unfortunately. Definitely check what others are suggesting as far as cap, fans, etc. If its over filling the overflow bottle its going to be the cap or head gasket, no 3 ways about it. If you watch the overflow bottle for bubbles, wat h it for 2 or 3 minutes and don't blink lol. If water pump or thermostat wasn't working or stuck, it would over heat noatter how fast you were moving. I hope its not your head gaskets but your symptoms sound like its in the beginning stages of it rearing its ugly head. No pun intended.

O rings are o rings if they fit, nothing special about them. Always best to replace them any time you pull injector out. You can use some petroleum jelly to help them slide INA bit easier.

The fact that the misfire is jumping around really makes me think wires and or plugs. Dealer plug wires ran me 44 dollars not even 2 weeks ago so not much more than box store wires. I had autolite plugs in mine and they went to crap very quick. I put the NGK platinum it calls for and the car rums like it never has before. I second a couple tanks with seafoam and change fuel filter. I would try and get away with changing fuel filter after the seafoam in case it removes a bunch of crap from tank and lines. Fuel filters aren't that expensive regardless so you could do it either way. I would think because misfire jumping around, it would NOT likely be injectors but could be a weak fuel pump. Not having any other codes doesn't lead me to think its any other sensors. Make sure those plug wires are snapped onto those plugs, when I pulled those autolites , I had actual looked like burn streaks down then side of my number 3 plugs where the spark was jumping down the side of the plug. Keep us updated and good luck.

03 outback wagon, new motor done, rotors and brake calipers and pass, done. New Subaru wires and mgk plugs done. Windowa tinted done. 4 new tires done. Clutch pressure plate and bearing ( including pilot ) done. So that leaves the half damage / cosmetic split paint to fix. Temps warm up next couple of days so its game on :)' all tranny and drive train fluids drained and filled. Hexk , why not. Everyone is invites to the shop in Colorado springs to knock this thing out

I have a small shop and entry of tools and would bsnmore than happy to jae a Saturday or Sunday now and them to talk, piddle around on. Cars etc. I'm locates off Filmore on n. Prospect st straight across from peak bowl. Five me a call if anyone would be interested in start doing something like this. I will. Bee upfront on a couple things, NO Drugs , drink a beer fine but if your drinking more then you need a designated driver. I'm not wanting it to be a party type thing, more of a learning and help type thing. Let me know if interested. My number is 719-238-0917. Its my business phone so don't care who sees or who has it. Or if you are someone in the so rigs that needs help. Call me up.

Have a 74 ford ranger xlt I'm restoring, I just posted it in non soon section, and own my 2005 GMC SLT 1 ton dually. The last truck I will ever buy I hope.

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Had this truck since I was a teenager. Started it last summer. My first time doing body work and its looking very good. Had 0 experience before I started this project. Has a 390 bored 60 over , small can. I had no rust at all except very minor surface rust. Will post pics soon as I figure out how.

Believe it or not, mix some strong dawn dishwashing detergent in a garden sprayer. Not to sound like a commercial but it really does cut grease and oil really well. That's my easy and cheaper choice, there is also a degreaser they at Lowes ( lumber chain) that is actually better than purple powerand much cheaper. I will have to look at the name of it and repost when I get back to my shop.

The biggest reason these lenses do this is the coating thats on them. Here's the fix and you won't regret it. Get yourself a sheet of 1500, 2000, and 3000 grit wet sandpaper. If you have a DA sander even easier, now get a bucket of soapy water, start with the 1500 and give it a very good circular motion sanding, work up to the 3,000 grit, give it some extra time with the 3,000. Now get some fine cut buffing compound and buff them out real well. Unlike the kits you buy or any other method, you won't be having to do this over and over constantly. Hope this helps. This works on any of your plastic lenses that have gone dull and crappy looking.