julianco

Any thoughts on the vacuum lines? Im running really well but then I'll come to a stop sign or light and it will idle really low and almost die and then throw a P1500 or 1507 and then not run quite right until I kill it and restart - then it runs fine again. Is it wrong to have vacuum lines changing diameters? In other news, I have parts for a pitch stopper to be fabbed up from the incredibly helpful people at SuperRupair in Boulder. They've been very helpful and I can't say enough good things about those doods. Another question. The two O2 sensor connectors in my wiring harness - from a '97 impreza - are one that's female, white, that clips right in on the first 02 connector. But the connector for the rear sensor is male and dark grey with 4 pins. Everything I've found for the extension harnesses should also plug right into another female so I just got two and spliced a female to the male end thinking it would plug right in and go, however, the grey connector doesn't even mate to the white female connector. So I thought I'd cut it off and splice on another white male connector however the wire colors are not the same layout. No one local seems to be able give me any info here and was wondering if someone on the forum might be able to. See pics below. The one I cut out of the '97 harness is on top -grey - you can see they're not the same. The wire colors from top right corner and going clockwise incase you can't tell are: Grey Connector: YR, W, Y, BrownWhite White Connector: WB, Kind of a dark Green maybe Blue, W, YR As you can see, the wire colors are not arranged in the same way on the connectors and not all 4 are the same. Can any one figure this for me?

Well thanks for all the input. Kingbobdole I'll be taking your advice first and go from there. I have both stock cats so it should pass the sniffer no problem. Unfortunately it appears that my alternator is shot, so emissions testing is going to be put on hold for a little bit. I'll update as it goes.

Now, I'm pretty sure that the alternator is shot.... or my wiring is totally wrong .... but I'm pretty sure it deaded itself.

Turned out to be pretty easy with some Spectre parts and a hole saw.

Some parts for my '78Leone. Seats - I'd love some plaid in good condition... An 80's GL high/lo plastic transmission stick cover for the interior. In Colorado if anyone has something locally.

Yeah, that's the other option, but it's the more time consuming option (I would have to lengthen a lot of wires) and I had some other plans for that zone. What did you do to make a new battery platform?

I'll take some more up to date pics in the next few days. The new issue is air intake. Since the EJ engine needs all the vacuum lines installed I was going to try to use most of the stock intake but the battery is taking up that space so I would like to do something like this pic posted by Mr. Brat in this thread . Any ideas on where to buy this spectre set up? Mine as it sits

So if anyone is interested, I've finished up most of the wiring and had the exhaust custom fitted. Here's a picture and a video of the first real test drive. http://s1104.photobucket.com/user/julianGG/media/IMG_2964MOV.mp4.html

Yeah I hear you. I'm sure the EJ22 will be better emissions wise than the '78's original engine either way... But "have a friend with a stock brat" is where that was made impossible for me.

I'm getting close to ready to register my '78 EJ22 swap, and I've just learned about the emission laws relative to swaps here in Colorado and have run into some problems. Basically, the engine has to have all the stock emissions related equipment - something I can make happen in the engine compartment pretty easily, but for the parts that were in the EJ fuel tank (which I have not put in the '78) I'm at a bit of a loss. It being a '97, the harness and ECU include a fuel pressure sensor, fuel temp sensor, and pressure release solenoid (? I think that's it?) which were in the fuel tank and which I really don't want to deal with attempting to plumb into '78's tank. So I want to trick the ECU into thinking these sensors are connected and happy so I can pass their OBD scan. (It would be nice to make them happy either way so I have a reliable check engine light) Does anyone know how to do this or able to point me to the info or have any other ideas on how to get this thing to pass emissions? My plan was to go give it a try and play dumb and hope it gets through - I'm sure exhaust gasses-wise it won't be a problem as long as the tech doesn't notice that the EJ22 looks a little different than a'78 motor... Any Colorado people with tips on testing locations?

Haha oops. But not I can put it all together and drive it soon! Hooray

Wow! Figured it out. I'm a big dummy. I'd looked up a picture online with little arrows pointing to fuel inlet vs. return vs. breather. Turns out inlet and return were reversed. Switched them and it started right up...... ughhhh that's embarrassing....

I'll go double check, but as is fuel pump does come on.

Very little of the emission stuff is hooked up. Could that be part of the issue? Some sort of vacuum problem?

And I made up a little noid light. It's an incandescent so probably not as reactive as an LED or something, but it did flash at what seemed to be the correct rate. Maybe every half second-ish. So that seems to check out too. Very much at a loss.... Uberoo, still looking for a clutch switch but haven't found anything.

So I read that the intake resonator helps the EJ22 run better - I don't think the lack of one would prevent it from running, but I tried a stock set up anyways. No help... This looks about right, right?

In other better news, I was able to get it started with some starter fluid. It runs as long as I keep spraying it in the intake. Does this rule out fuel injector problems? Also, my cousin just told me that it won't run without an intake resonator - is this true? So now I'm starting to think that it's maybe a fuel pressure problem. Just picked up a fuel pressure gauge and will test in a few hours. If it is low pressure, any tips on a somewhat affordable inline fuel pump? Right now I have one from a junkyard - a '93ish Loyale which should be capable of providing the pressure, but it is in the engine bay which I've read may restrict its function.

First of all, thank you Uberoo for the input. It's very appreciated. I have the '78's wiring harness running the starter with the new ECU's starter signal wire connected to the signal from the IG switch at the starter, so I suppose that if there is a clutch wire, the car would still turn over like you say. But I'm still pretty sure there is no clutch wire. As far as I can tell, the ECU pinouts I've been using (terrible quality) don't mention anything about the clutch switch.

Yes OBD2. But I'm pretty sure there is no clutch switch with this ECU. The starter cranks anyways, where if it had a clutch kill switch, I'm pretty sure it wouldn't even turn over. Heading in to check out whether it will start with some ether and depending on that, I'll then go find a 12volt LED and to make a little noid light.

I was thinking it was a problem with the injectors too. Not sure what a noid light is, but after looking up, it seems like it is basically testing that the wiring is working? How do you test if they're firing? I have power at all 4 and if there was a ground problem, it seems like it would show up on OBD scans anyways.... It's also hard to believe that all 4 would get clogged or fail mechanically or something that wouldn't show up in the codes all at once.

I've taken over this project http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/117202-1978-4x4-wagon-build-thread/ . Nobelsablepuma had stopped at the electrical stage and I've been struggling with it since. It came with a harness from generaldisorder (who has been very helpful) and is hooked up direct and minimally for testing. Connected now are the 3 main engine electrical connectors, MAF, fuel pump, start signal, grounds and power (30amp and 15amp power direct to battery for testing). It has fuel pressure at the inlet and power at the injectors. It has spark. Checked and reset timing (it was almost perfectly set already). Fuel pump and ignition relays are doing their jobs. OBD only throws 2 codes - fuel temp and fuel level - which should not prevent it from starting and after repeatedly scanning and turning it over to try to make it throw a code, there's no change. My head hurts from hitting it against the wall . Anyone have any tips for other things to check? Any ideas/help would be very appreciated!

Great! Thank you Pooparu.

I'd love to see that link if anyone still has it... (bump from the past)

Thank you very much Leeroy! It's not quite right, but this should help quite a bit.