Trident

Cont'd: I used the bearing on the right, as its what I found pictured in the majority of Exedy 15008 product listings. So far so good

I preferred deletion for mine. Here's the tee that I found thru research here... http://www.brakequipproducts.com/product/brakequip-bq91a-3-way-tube-tee-m10-x-1-10mm-mount-hole

Engine pulled and to my surprise it's not the rear main leaking but something towards the front. The oil is traveling back and gathering right where it would of it was the rear main. On the bright side, the clutch lining is super close to the rivets & the throwout bearing is ROUGH feeling. I've got the Exedy kit on the bench here and I have 2 throwout bearings in this kit. Anybody know the difference in the two?

Thank you very much, I've used it extensively already. I just saw the offer pop up for the real deal paper FSMs & figured it was worth a shot.

I emailed the guy shortly after he posted these, never got a response.

So over the past few weeks, my wagon has started smoking a little. Mind you, not out of the tail pipe or around the engine when running. A few minutes after taking off (or whenever the exhaust gets hot enough) smoke begins to eminate from the rear of the car. Usually by this point I’m doing 55-60mph. After a few minutes, the smoke subsides. The car runs fine otherwise. Last night coming home from work, the amount of smoke was the most it’s ever been. When I got home, I decided to investigate. Lots of oil getting onto the exhaust pipe where the 2 exhaust pipes join after leaving the engine. I hop on this board for a quick search & find a rear main seal thread with multiple pictures that look exactly like my exhaust looks. Now we all know what that likely means, a rear main seal AND a clutch job. I acquired this car at 157,xxx miles & am now at 19X,XXX miles. More than likely I’m still working with the original clutch. I went ahead & ordered a new OEM rear main seal & throwout bearing clips (per GeneralDisorders’ advice in an EA82 clutch thread). More than likely, will be adding an Exedy 15008 to the shopping list later today. BTW, If I can’t find the OEM #s on this board fairly quick, I’ve had great luck using www.parts.subaru.com for finding OEM part #s. The site seems a little quirky but works.

The hits just keep coming with my GL wagon this winter. As posted in the 13” tire thread, I discovered one of my Winterforce Artic Claws had a broken belt. It was a area about the size of my palm, bulging outward & worn down to 0/32nds. I found this while removing/painting my wagon wheels. Since these tires had 30k+ miles on them & the fact that they were $60/per tire, I decided to go ahead & get 4 new tires. I kept the other 3 for spares. I had a good enough experience with the Claws, but according to the tire shop they’re no longer available. I decided on Mastercraft Strategy 175/70R13s. (http://mastercrafttires.com/Mobile/Tire-Detail.aspx?tireId=287) A more road-going tire but they offer a 65k mile warranty. Additionally, they were only $258 for all 4, out the door & lifetime rotation/balancing. Back on the road, some previously unfelt vibes were gone, the wagon def. felt better & I was sailing smooth, feeling good. There was more trouble lurking however..... To be cont'd

Make sure both hoses going to the heater core are hot. If they aren't, the heater core could be partially clogged.

A not-so-happy update... passenger side rear has broken a belt with approx 30-31k miles. The Artic Claws are no longer available thru my tire shop. 4 new Mastercraft ordered for installation tomorrow. I'll keep the other 3 Claws around for spares.

Clutch cable installed, wagon's back on the road. I got the replacement from Autozone, it's Pioneer brand (CA-824 part #) Huge difference in the clutch feel now. Going from original clutch (190k mi) & cable to new cable/original clutch. Also found that when I eliminated the hill holder that I removed the return spring too....at least I think I did. Either way, there's not one now. Any thoughts on this? The pedal now has a "dead spot" during the first 1"-2" of travel before resistance is felt. New spring might cure that?

Thanks. It was a broken clutch cable. Parts ordered and I'll get it back on the road Wednesday.

On the way to work this morning, the clutch pedal on my '86 EA82 wagon decided to stay on the floor. Hoping it's the cable, but also ready for a full clutch replacement if need be. Parts rpl'd recently: Starter (Bosch) Fan resistor (OEM) & relay (AutoZone) All new coolant hoses/clamps (Gates) & new radiator cap (OEM)

Here's the small tool for screwing the piston back in. Attaches to 3/8" drive http://i.imgur.com/JiBmyuC.jpg

The lever that works my blend door came disconnected on my '86 Wagon. Here's a pic (courtesy of TomRHere) of the assembly. Red arrow is pointing to where it can come unattached. I couldn't get behind there to see, had to work blindly. I did get it reattached somewhat. It's on permanent "full warm" setting. http://i.imgur.com/XOIG8G4.jpg

?? Yes, that's correct. Not a super long-term review mind you, but I thought it was a valid post considering the numerous horror stories associated with CV axles from AutoZone, Advance, etc that I've read on here.

I installed 2 new Empi 80-5504 axles on my '86 GL wagon & they've been great. Over 10k miles on them now. $58 from Amazon currently Anybody know the rear CV Empi part # for my wagon? Haven't been able to figure that one out.

Sorry fellas, haven't gotten a measurement on the tires.......but I did upload an example of their performance

a local tire shop, Crass Tire & Lube here in Murray, KY.

2 yrs later & I'm at 27-28k miles and have had no issues with the Claws. Well worth the $$ spent. Ballpark guess is 30-40℅ tread left. I'll try & measure the /32nds soon

I wholeheartedly agree. I couldn't see the forest for the trees.

Alrighty fellas, I believe I can officially say that it's the rotors causing the problem. They are indeed, the wrong ones. Overall, they're too thick but it's not the actual area where the shoes touch. It's the part that comes out that the hub bolts to, as shown below... Thanks for the suggestions guys, and especially to Len Dawg with the rotor comment.

rotors....it very well may be them. Ok, gonna go measure & do some research. Thanks

No, been running these axles for 10 months or so now. Initially I took apart the wheel end b/c I could hear/feel a caliper dragging. Turned out, the passenger side caliper was seized. Ordered a new caliper then new pads b/c that side was worn due to the dragging. Ended up putting the new pads on both sides and now am trying to put it back together.

So I'm replacing a front brake caliper on my '86 Wagon and have run into trouble. The caliper seized and would not retract for love or money. I've had the axle/brakes/etc. apart several times in the past year for new axles, wheel bearings, shocks and it's always gone back together with no issues. This time, however, I CANNOT get the axle nut (both sides) back on far enough. Not much off, but cannot get them on far enough to put the cotter pin installed. I know it must be something painfully obvious, hence my "dumb" feeling. Opinions on where my problem is? The caliper/brake shoe bracket mounts betweeen the dust shield & rotor correct?

^^^^^^ It was the caliper. Ordered one from AutoZone (trust me, I know better....was just trying to get it fixed quickly as to be lesser a burden on people who've loaned me their vehicles) & tried to install it yesterday. Emergency brake bracket mounting is wrong (pic below) as one hole wasn't even threaded and the one that was is threaded is too big for the bolt. I decided to proceed with the installation just to get it back on the road. FAIL I've got something fudged up as I can't get the axle nut on far enough. Back at it again today after work... Yee haw!