Trident

1986 EA82 wagon: Shortly after I installed new KYB struts/shocks at every corner, I noticed my front passenger side caliper dragging. Started teardown yesterday and even with the bleeder opened...the caliper didn't want to budge :/ Finally got it off to find a busted inner brake pad. I'm assuming it's the caliper or brake hose. p.s. replacing the original struts/shocks w/new ones was well overdue. 30yrs & 180k miles

3 mounting bolts in the back, 2 in the front. The 2 fittings come out the front of the tank just inboard of the passenger side mounting bolt.

Pump is external, just FWD of the tank

I'm willing to crawl under mine when I get home from work if you want? 75 & sunny here today, I'm on the Triumph currently

No sir, no new sending unit. However, it had sit at the bottom of the old tank for so long it had rotted a hole straight through the old tank. I removed the tank/sender & cleaned the sender best I could. Re-installed it and while it isn't 100% accurate, the low fuel light still works & I'm satisfied with that.

I bought this one and installed it in my '86 EA82 wagon. Approx 30k miles w/no issues. goo.gl/3yr61Z

whoops, apologies for the mistake!

EA82 Heater Core Replacement by Moosens 12-2004 **************************************************************************************** Disconnect battery ground Remove the front seats Remove the gasket plate that the heater core inlet and outlet tubes pass through as they go through the firewall. Good idea to disconnect the speedometer cable from the tranny to give some slack towards the dash. Remove center consoles from underdash to emergency brake/center compartment piece. It's ok to leave the radio in but you can take some weight off the dash if you take it out now. Disconnect antenea wire at shoulder of transmission hump up by the driver's feet. You'll also want to disconnect the cable that goes to the heater box. There's a vacuum hose to pull off of the heaterbox as well, all on the driver's side right near each other. Remove the underside dash panels. Remove the glovebox at this point with just one screw at the hinge base and slide it towards the other hinge to remove. On the passenger side disconnect the connectors by the door and you can get the vacuum tube as well, or get it when the dash begins to come off. On the driver's side the only things to disconnect are what goes through the firewall. Remove the fusebox with three screws and let it hang. Disconnect the harness under the steering wheel. Mark the connectors for the high beam lever and the ignition as the connectors look the same. the high beams will engage the starter if they are mixed up. Then drop the computer by loosening the three nuts and sliding it towards the rear of the car. Disconnect it and tuck it away. Drop the steering wheel with 2 bolts.The wheel should be free to drop. There's a chance you may have to disconnect a cruise control processor. Dashboard fastners are 10mm. You'll see three covers to remove across the top. There's also a cover on each end on the front of the dash facing the seats. Raise the dash and rest it diagonally using the steering wheel as a rest, driver's side of dash forward, pass. side to rear. That gives enough room to get the heater unit out. First, to disconnect the ductwork squeeze the band clip. Leave the rear section right there on the duct and just lift and remove the front part of the band clip. Unbolt the heaterbox at top. Be sure to have the center console brackets removed for ease and safety. Disconnect the ground wire off the box there. You can slice the carpet in the center to make it a little easier to remove. The ducts going to the rear seats need to be bent to allow the heaterbox outlets to be free. Bend the ducts gently and try not to crease them severely. From the passenger's side, remove the heaterbox tipping the top slightly downward toward the rear of the car as you slide the unit rearward. Once it's off the mount go around to the driver's side to get it free from the car as the ductwork and dash are in the way from the passenger's side. Now remove the core from the box. Clean the box up with some cleaner and replace the foam with some dense foam that is already sticky-backed. Replace core. Insert the box making the tubes go through the firewall, get it in place, bolt it up with the top 10mm inside the car. Go outside and install the gasketplate,and hoses. Put the dash back and remember to install the vacuum hose on the passenger side. Make sure the speedometer is in and hook up the cable for the heater control, and connect the vacuum and the antenna all right near each other. On the driver's side,connect the jungle being careful and hopefully not colorblind. The connectors mostly all fit only where they belong with each other. Assemble in reverse order of above.

someone more knowledgeable than me will probably chime in, but that sounds like the heater core is still partially clogged

here's a thread I started last year. It's got a decent pic http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/149953-anybody-had-the-arm-come-off-the-heater-blend-door-86-ea82/

I must apologize, as I was wrong about something. Moreso semantics....but still. The new filter that failed was a Napa Gold 1361. Still manufactured by Wix so yeah.... The filter is going back to my local store and being sent back for testing. I know the owner of the local Napa here and he told me today that he had seen 3 faulty filters during his years there. I'll try & post back when I hear something.

I could, gonna wait til I write Wix and get their response. They very well may want it back for their own analysis. well, the problem appeared upon the first start-up post oil change. When my friend suggested the faulty filter as the cause, I removed it and no oil came out......NONE. I was gobsmacked. Old filter re-installed>started car>good pressure almost immediately.

I can understand that point of view, but I also understand that it's a mass produced item & no matter what...some will be bad. I've been using Wix filters on my cars, trucks & motorcycles for about 10 yrs now & this is the first problems I've ran into.

Solved! It was indeed a faulty Wix filter. The ticking hasn't disappeared totally, but I hope it does with time. Thanks guys

Yes sir, resealed the pump with all OEM parts

I75eya - Correct, no oil was in the new filter after running the engine. It's a WIX 51361....same filter # that I've ran since the reseal w/no issues. grossgary - Sorry for any confusion. Correct, the engine is full of oil but the mechanical gauge I installed is reading ZERO pressure & the new filter I had installed had ZERO oil in it upon removal. Believe me fellas, if this had been someone telling me this story with these symptoms, I would have a hard time imagining it as well. Especially when I swapped the oil filters last night & nothing came out! I was blown away. After work I'll probably start disassembling to try & test the pump with a drill as DaveT suggested.

Oh yes, I've put several miles on her between the reseal & now. Several oil changes with no trouble also. Update: After I posted last night I had a buddy over who said, like you suggested, that I should try switching back to the old filter. So I removed the new filter and NOTHING came out. What the ?...... I went & installed the old filter and cranked it up. No pressure, still ticking away.

A little frame of reference first... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/141449-tridents-1986-gl-4wd-wagon/ So now, after 20k mostly trouble free miles Ive ran into problems. After a routine oil & filter change, I fired her up and knew in an instant I had problems. Ticking coming from the valve covers. Sounded like the passenger side, so I tore the valve cover off and found nothing amiss. I've just finished installing a mechanical oil pressure gauge and have 0 pressure. There's not even any oil running up to the gauge. I used the small idiot light port for the gauge. No leaks anywhere either. When I did the reseal I installed new oem cam tower o-rings and new oem seals, etc on the oil pump itself. Is the general consensus that I should remove the oil pump and investigate?

I've never had problems with returning anything to RockAuto. If you call their customer service line you actually get to talk to a real, native English speaking person.

Location?

6 month old Delco alternator just locked up on me. Overcharged for a few miles, seized and smoked the belt. Lucky for me, I just happen to be at my daily breakfast spot.

sorry, but the picture I posted was the only one of the whole procedure I took. Was using a buddy's shop so the time crunch was a factor. I will say that the axle pictured, the one that came apart upon removal has/had big time problems. Found the inner race (where the bearings ride) had gouges, chipped portions, etc. so I figure that had to be what was making the chatter. I attempted to " smooth out" the bad spots and reinstall it with new boots and grease. However, after 5 days of driving it I'm now experiencing intermittent vibrations, noise and general bad sounds from that axle end. Looks like I'm gonna need to contact Retroroo Shawn for a new axle.

So the circlip out at the end of the axle doesn't have ears at all. It's just a round keeper clip that snaps in when you seat the CV to the axle end. Wasted $1.69 but that's ok. Axles rebuilt and going back in w/new wheel bearings and seals.

Started removal and teardown/rebuild of my CV axles yesterday. 1986 GL 4wd. So everything came apart fairly well until I got to the "noisy" side. I knocked the axle thru the hub, grabbed it to pull it out and it came apart. Found where the outermost circlip had broken. Basically it broke both ears off the ends. I've tried all the auto parts stores in town, sans Napa as it's closed til Monday. Headed to the farm stores now to try and rustle one up.

Got it. Honestly not sure how I did b/c of the limited space, but I ain't complaining. Daytime temps here dipped about 30 degrees overnight so it was crunch time so to speak