Trident

Well, after re-checking plugs, wires, disty, etc I decided to pull it out for a spin. It barely pulls itselfs while popping like mad. I think its safe to assume I've got the cams out of time.

Haha....sorry, I know the audio quality of that clip is crap. I decided on speed rather than quality so I could get it uploaded tonight. Yes I'm positive its coming thru the carb. All spark plugs, cables, etc are brand new. Gas is good, as I've replaced the gas tank and blown out the lines. The engine accelerates well, although the popping does get more intense higher in the rpm range. The car does have an immense exhaust leak, the bottom of the front cat is very rotten.

Ok, timed it to about 21-22-ish to run best but the popping still remains. If I tune it to 20 it doesn't want to idle. It's not really a backfire, just sounds like popcorn popping (my best explanation). Take away the popping and the motor sounds good. Here's a short, bad quality video of the sound

I ran the Hitachi for a very short time after I put the motor back in. It was leaking badly from the accelerator pump, etc. so I decided on the Weber swap vs rebuilding it. It popped a small amount but not nearly like the Weber is. Hard to compare b/c of the short time I ran it. I haven't messed with the distributor much at all. I've got the vacuum advance coming from the front right port on the Weber.

Both 140 for the primary & secondary jets. I'll try & advance the timing tonight. Right now the distributor is set as far counter-clockwise as it will go (if that makes sense). I left it in the same spot as when I disassembled for the reseal. I was thinking perhaps that I may need to hook my return line back up. If so, where should I on the Weber?

Quick rundown of the Weber install and where I stand: 1986 GL wagon with freshly resealed EA82 new Weber 32/36 DGEV installed Vacuum consists of the usual - Distributor advance (single port) - Heater control - brake booster - 4wd vacuum line (I think?) Misc. - EGR & ASV disconnected. No quarter trick performed yet on ASV - Fuel return line & tank vent line disconnected at metal lines near firewall - Electric choke hooked up - Fuel mixture set at 2 turns out, idle speed set to 7-800 rpms Now for the problem...the car starts up quickly and idles.....sounds decent, BUT I'm getting a pretty constant popping back through the carb at idle & throughout the rpm range. I have not driven it yet just ran throttle up by hand. I just found a quote from GD that stated backfiring was usually an ASV or exhaust leak issue. On that note, my front cat on the y-pipe is fairly rotten and leaking so that may be it? A buddy suggested I was one tooth off which is easy to believe as I'm a noob with Soobs. As far as timing goes, the engine had the stock Hitachi on until this weekend. Perhaps it needs to be advanced a bit...... Any help is very much appreciated, I'm SO CLOSE with my first Subaru, reseal, engine R/R, etc. etc. As she sits.....

The TransDapt 2107 mounted.... Used this to seal the coolant passage. Sets up quick & working well Used this sealer on the gaskets for a little extra insurance Weber mounted & PCV lines.....getting closer And here she is buttoned up. I pretty much mirrored kanurys' set up on the PCV routing. I don't have a catch can set up currently, but I'll probably have to soon. Quick rundown of the Weber install and where I stand: Weber 32/36 DGEV installed Vacuum consists of the usual - Distributor advance (single port) - Heater control - brake booster - 4wd vacuum line (I think?) Misc. -EGR & ASV disconnected. No quarter trick performed yet on ASV -Fuel return line & tank vent line disconnected at metal lines near firewall - Electric choke hooked up - Fuel mixture set at 2 turns out, idle speed set to 7-800 rpms Now for the problem...the car starts up quickly and idles , BUT I'm getting a constant popping back the carb throughout the rpm range. No adjustment of the distributor changes it so I'm thinking I've got it one tooth off? If anybody sees anything in my pics or post here that may lead you to check something else first, please speak up

Last night I stripped the unneeded vacuum lines, emission components & Hitachi carb off the manifold. The engine compartment is looking way better already! The vacuum plug kit I purchased from AutoZone didn't have nearly enough 5/16" plugs unfortunately. I'll need to go back today and grab a pack of 5/16" only. I used a fast cure epoxy from Bowman to seal the coolant passage on top of the manifold. It's Bowman part # 22023 but it's manufactured by 3M. I work in the trucking industry & our techs swear by the stuff. I'll go back today and sand it flat, ready for the TransDapt 2107 & gasket to go on. As far as the other 2 coolant passages (front of manifold & crossover pipe) I need to seal, haven't decided how I'm going to do it yet. Maybe just run a new hose between the 2.... I've decided to use the EGR and plug the ASV........we'll see how that goes.

As my little project rolls along, it seems little gremlins rear their heads at every turn. Not entirely unexpected given the recent history of the car. After installing my new tank (around $48 shipped from Amazon! ) it seemed as though the carb wasn't getting fuel. Further inspection revealed that the short length of metal fuel line between the tank & fuel filter was 100% plugged. After trying unsuccessfully to clean the line, a short length of 5/16" fuel line solved the problem. It didn't take long for fuel to reach the carb and VROOM....she's alive. Joy was short-lived as gas began to pour out of the accelerator pump and possibly elsewhere on the Hitachi. I knew then that I was faced with the "rebuild vs. Weber" decision. I've decided to go with the Weber and currently have ordered the TransDapt 2107. I'll use tomorrow morning to decide on which Weber to order and get it on it's way. Any suggestions as to which model to order is greatly appreciated. Until its here, I'll be reading every carb swap thread I can find to deal with the plugging of vacuum lines, elimination of coolant passages and what to do with the EGR, ASV, etc. One unrelated issue that I just remembered....while unloading her and rolling her into my friends shop we noticed an oil leak. After a quick look-see we determined it originated from what I think is the speedo cable on top of the transmission. From what I've read here, that's not good. I wonder why it just now started leaking, and not when the car was moved the other couple times......like onto the trailer to bring it home or when we unloaded it and rolled it onto my carport or onto the trailer again for the last move. The only difference I can think of is I had to get on the brakes pretty good while unloading it this last time to avoid hitting my buddy's stuff around his shop. That being said, there isn't much brake pedal to begin with & I ended up pulling the e-brake to stop it. I sure hope this dang problem doesn't end up being a huge deal. Til next time.....

While replacing the rotten fuel tank in my '86 GL I broke off the vent lines that go to the vapor separator inside the rear passenger side fender. ::frustration:: The lines broke off right at or inside of the fender. What is the best course of action? Could I run new lines from the tank and zip-tie them to the fuel neck, effectively venting them to the outside air? I also have the third line, a metal one, that comes back from the fuel filter/pump area. What effects, if any, am I going to experience? Keep in mind that I live in an area not subject to any emissions testing. Thanks guys!

Thanks for the kind words! Before this, the "biggest" single repair I've ever made on my own vehicles was prob. an exhaust manifold in my Jeep TJ. This place has been an irreplaceable asset during this project. The "pulling an engine thru the eyes of a noob" thread was instrumental as well as the usual tidbits from GeneralDisorder & many others. Combine it with the How to Keep Your Subaru Alive book and the 1989 EA82 .pdf available from numerous links here and you've got all the weapons you need.

another day, another hurdle for the Soob. Upon dropping the mustache bar down and dropping the tank, I found that the tank is ruined. The old gas left in the tank rotted a hole straight through. Looks to possibly be where the sending unit float sat. Replacement to be ordered today. Pleasantly surprised with the $75 price tag on the Spectra replacement tank & I'll know the fuel system is spotless.

During the last month, my sister acquired a '92 Civic p.o.s. that has been taking up a lot of my time, but I digress.... The EA82 is completed and has been reinstalled in the wagon. A good (read: GREAT) friend let me tow it to his shop to get me out of the elements a bit. Chomping at the bit, we hooked it up to a makeshift "gas tank" which consisted of an electric fuel pump & a 5 gallon gas can. After installing a new battery and crossing fingers I hit the key......SUCCESS!! She fired up as soon as gas hit the carb with nary a bit of lifter noise. I haven't reinstalled the exhaust, so she was a bit loud To this point, we've only ran it 20-30 sec. intervals so I'm cautiously optimistic. This is my first engine removal, reseal, etc. so...... Still dealing with a few issues before she's roadworthy. I took the original alternator off and up to have it tested. I know the AutoZone/Oreillys/etc. testers aren't the end all - be all, but it failed all 3 sections of the test so I'm looking at possibly the Maxima alt swap or just buying a reman. I pulled off the fuel tank inspection plate and discovered pure nastiness inside the tank. It needs to be dropped and cleaned before I'll use it. Getting 4 new tires mounted at lunch, so we're good there. as a footnote: I ended up leaving the broken bolt in the EGR pipe & sealing it up. Hope it causes no problems. Also, I used the paper style gasket for the thermostat, the rubber seal I ordered would in no way fit.

After much too long without an update, I'm back. Where to start?......... -The 2nd cylinder head has been sanded & reinstalled along with new cam tower o-rings, valve cover gaskets & grommets. Both sides are totally bolted back together & waiting to be put to work. -Oil pump has been rebuilt with all 3 new seals. -new water pump & gasket installed along with new bypass(?) hose -oil pan gasket replaced. Found ungodly sludge & quickly banished it to the parts washer. There is no telling how incorrect the dipstick was reading. -new tensioners & pulley -new crank seal old water pump oil pan before (sorry bout the quality) after lots more pics at http://imgur.com/a/p6org Problems I've yet to solve: 1. The EGR bolt that I broke off. After drilling the heck out of the center, I still cannot get it out.....any ideas? For clarity, this is on the passenger side cylinder head. What about the gaskets for both these pipes? What are they called or parts #s so I can look them up. (It may be for the ASV I guess, but I'm thinking it's the EGR) 2. So when I ordered the t-stat/gasket from Subaru, I received the rubber thermostat gasket. The old one that came off was a paper gasket & I ordered this one thinking I was doing the right thing. Now I find that the new seal will not fit in the recess where the thermostat itself sits. Should I just go with a paper one? thanks fellas!

Yessir, it does. The Aisin pumps look to have the shaft size stamped on the pulley. You may be able to see the "105" stamped on this picture. Now if they would just list that in the part description...

One quick bit of info, I answered my own question concerning which Aisin pump was which. The WPF007 is the 105mm while the WPF003 is the 110mm. Comparison pic here:

you're welcome Loyale 2.7, not a problem at all. I'm gonna go with the 110mm for mine as well. Now the question is.......which Aisin pump is 110mm? the 007 or 003?

ok, so I removed the water pump from my 1986 GL (Factory A/C as far as I can tell, the compressor inboard of the alternator & uses V-belts) I measured from these 2 points on the pump and I received this measurement So........110mm?.....if I'm measuring correctly

Loyale 2.7 - I agree on the confusing part. I'm needing to order one for my '86 GL right now but all the contradictions you highlighted gives me pause. I've got factory A/C which is inboard of the alternator, uses v-belts and the current water pump has studs that the fan mounts to. I'm leaning towards 110mm......

1 cylinder head back on and torqued, the other sitting on the bench ready for sanding. I definitely found the cylinder which was pumping coolant. Driver's side head and block full of "georgia clay" looking stuff. Gonna flush that out tonight. Random thoughts during this process - I've read a few posts concerning seized valve lash adjusters. Mine came out extremely easy - Crank sprockets also were easy to remove. Waiting on UPS man with my eBay belts/tensioners - Much more (really TIGHT) torque on a few head bolts on the 2nd head I removed. Consistency is not the word I would use for those, on either side.

Broken stud removed & the head has been sanded, ready for re-installation tonight. The stud removal took about a week soaking with PB Blaster and a moderate amount of pencil torch. I purchased a cheap stud extractor but never could get a good bite on the stud. I followed GDs thread on sanding the heads and it worked well. 220>320 grit and the picture below is what I ended up with. The common cracks between the valves that I thought weren't there of course ARE there, but not letting those worry me. The last pic is of an EGR bolt I snapped. Now I've drilled thru it and believe I'll have it out soon.

Got the passenger side head off and on the bench. Still no luck with the manifold bolt. I may end up taking it to the machine shop. I found some corrosion on the upper bolts on both the cam tower & head itself. I don't think these head gaskets have been on too long, judging by the condition of the head bolts and gasket itself. I did find unequal torque on the head bolts and the cam tower o-ring in bad shape. No discernible cracks on the head either. Lucky I guess? Here's the link to a more complete gallery of pics http://imgur.com/a/p6org

Gotcha. Heat only the bolt itself correct?

Got the intake off after snapping one of the bolts. Pictures show the condition I found each side in. The driver's side gasket came off with the intake, where the passenger's stayed stuck to the block. That pic also shows the broken bolt. I'm letting PBlaster work it's magic on that currently. If that doesn't work, I'll go the drill bit route. One last pic, the engine after a small amount of cleaning. I think it'll turn out well.

It ended up snapping right where the threads start (I think that's exactly where you mentioned on your intake vid Miles!) Now I've got 2 others on the opposite side that have come 1/2 way out but no further. They spin pretty much freely and sort of raise up & down a minute amount when rotating. That side will raise up and once I get the EGR disconnected I think the intake will come off b/c of how far down the sheared bolt is broken.