brat82

FWD=front wheel drive

Sorry no drivers side, passenger only' have other parts from 97523

Howdy, I am dismantling a 83-84 subaru gl wagon. I know I have one rear tail light assy. I'll look and get back...

I've gotten parts/gaskets from here, http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/

whole unit only, pm me with offer? shipping= 10lbs. from 97523

I've got a couple of these, one from 82 BRAT w/336,000+ miles, key still unlocks the ign.. Because of the locking of the steering, it doesn't seem to be easy if at all possible to remove the ign. switch only(maybe locksmith).

Defrost heat tubes plugged

Ah, the path that leads down the road of DIY auto repair, I remember it well, greasehopper...

Howdy, In case you didn't know, there are water passages in the intake manifold, out on ends where intake bolts to head, and also some small tubing/hoses that go from engine block to Carb. mounting base. On my stock "carter/weber" carb mount, there is a small rubber gasket, fits into carb. mount block. Water warms/heats the carb plate to make fuel vaporize better(I think?). My intake manifold started to show leaks, and it came down to taking the whole intake manifold off, and finding that my carb was not tightened down to the manifold. Also, if you are going to take off intake, make sure the bolts are loosened, before you remove them, or else you will just twist them off/broken, into head.

I second that, and what a mess...

I also like running the stock 13". I was able to get a junker brat with 3 sets of tires and rims. About 8 of the tires were still good like brand new, 185x70x13 Some of the last tires I bought were from Les... and was able to get 185x80x13, but didn't notice any real difference, My BRAT handles real well on 185x70. I don't like that these tires are passenger car and also only 1 ply sidewall.

I rebuilt mine. I bought a couple of used engines. One used one still ran, but you couldn't see the crack, in the block, underneath the intake manifold.

Do you have a distributor? One of the things I've found is the vacuum advance canister(round thing on side of dist.) goes out. You can check this out by removing dist.cap, get a length of hose long enough so you can put it on the vac. can. pipe, and suck on it and see if the dist. plate moves. If it doesn't the vac. can. is shot. Other than that check all the hoses you removed when you did all that stuff. Look at the ends and see how cracked they are. Cut the ends off the ones that look old/cracked/etc. Old rubber cracks when they get removed and replaced. With all those hoses vacuum leaks can be hard to find. Also, check your fuel filter for crud.

Not to adjust because you have hydraulic lifters? Do you know which cyl. isn't firing? Pull one spark plug wire at a time with engine running and see which one DOESN'T change engine operation, thats the dead one. Then you can check the valve adjustment of that cyl. If you are dealing with hyd.lifters, just remember how many turns you back off adjuster, so you can put it back in that position if thats not the problem. Compression test would show you all cyls. in relation to each other, psi. If you found a dead cyl. with comp. guage, you could then back off adjuster, and check compression again and if it came up(psi), the valve/s on that cyl. were open, no compression. Then you just need to readjust lifter. You could check what the lifters are set at, by checking the one next to the dead one, when it's in firing position(where rotor is pointing in dist. cap etc.)

Have you done a compression check? Adjust your valves/check valve clearance?

When you do get to putting this back together, use some anti-sieze compound on the threads. I use anti-sieze everywhere, exhaust, intake, heat related, water(thermostat housing) etc...

Where in the head? Got a photo? I've been able to drill out broken studs/bolts etc., by using a left cutting drill bit. Cuts/drills counterclockwise, left twist. Standard drills are right cutting. You can get left cutting bits at machine shops or good auto parts stores. Usually you have to get a couple of sizes, start small and work your way up, and you have to do it carefully, as straight as you possibly can. Sometimes the thing your are drilling will heat up, catch on the bit, and back itself out. Good to soak with some penetrating oil. I also have good used heads...good luck.

I've had this 82brat for 10 or more yrs. and it has been a daily driver. I got it with original engine, tranny that didn't work. It had sat for 2 yrs. and the carb was all gummed up(old gas varnish). I got the original motor(1.8) running, put in a different trans(took it out of an 84, and it had 81 in wrecking yard crayon on it). I hit black ice and slid on pass. side, slammed into the cutbank, really messed it up...switched out that motor with a used one, only got 10,000 miles and it gave me all kinds of problems. The ORIGINAL MOTOR has 363,000 miles on it and I was still getting 30 or more mpg., even with all my rafting gear and food for 3weeks and off to UTAH for trip down the colo. river/Grand Canyon. I now have a rebuilt engine, getting close to 1000miles, and a tranny that had 154,000 on it. It has really good power, and gets that good milage on reg.gas. I write all this cause I hear the newer ones don't get the mileage like the old ones. I'm hoping this is the last car I own, although I also have a 72vw bus, a 1945 chev. truck, and a 59 morris minor. Some parts are getting hard to find as the other styles just don't match the brat.

OEW1432 japan POM on plastic, inside drivers side mirror mount

Hit a BIG pregnant doe (april or may), all front grill/lights/headlite trim/bumper trashed, fenders tweaked, radiator into engine, etc... am just now getting back on road, no front grill, no bumpers, but rebuilt engine. Oh, and the deer was pretty good also

To try and keep ALL FOUR WHEELS on the ground!i! These little things can haul me and all my rafting gear, there and back!

my "new" brat