yblocker

I have a ea82 in a '92 Loyale that will not idle when cold without some throttle. It used to start then run at around 2,000 rpm when cold, then drop off by itself when warm. I assume this is the job of the green harness connector coolant temp switch. The IAS works consistently whe given 12v. So my queston is, do any of you know the resisitance values for the coolant swiitch cold vs hot? They are available on Rock Auto, but are over 100 bucks. I guess it could be a harness issue too, but thought that the switch would be a good start.

I have two of these old cars. One is an '87 that has the dual range tranmission. The car has been there and back believe me. T-boned once in the early 2000's and then rolled by my son who pushed it back over onto its wheels and driven home. This car needs a cat to pass smog, but it's so beat up, it's probably not worth the costs. The transmission is the only component worth saving. The other is a '92 Loyale with the button push single range 4wd system.. This car has a nice tight body but the clutch is living on borrowed time. I'm thinking of dropping the dual range trans and clutch (which has low miles) out of the '87, and swapping it into the '92. Is rhis pretty much a direct swap?

Going through my new Outback still..... Right or wrong I R&Rd myTPS to see how it's looking back there, and learned that upon re-innstallation, it needs to be dialed in by adjusting it's position so it's putting out between 0.45 and 0.55 volts. It was a simple matter of connecting my volt meter to the center wire and a ground and I wound up with 0.504 volts- real close to the middle of the allowable range. My question is, what does this value have to do with its effect on how the car runs? It's a pretty wide alowable range, but I'm nut really willing to experiemnt. Anybody understand the principal here? What if the value was out of rane?

Yeah- maybe "bad gas"... Although that's pretty rare in my experience. But that's why I put the expensive stuff in there with someTechron. Maybe the injectors will like it.

Thanks to both of you. The running a lean AF mixture does seem to fit the symptom of detonation. I noticed that the IAT sensor schmekle was pretty oily which might cause it to respond incorrectly and lean things out. I cleaned it with some of that CRC MAF cleaner spray. I also pulled the PCV valve and it was pretty gummed up which may be a cause of oil in the intake. I cleaned it out with some carb cleaner until it freed up and rattled easy. As far as testing the resistance of the knock sensor goes, I could have sworn I saw a spec that stated that the resisitance should exceed 50.000 ohms. Either way, I like the bathroom scale comparison. Funny! I'll keep driving it and see how it does. Thanks again.

New to me 2000 Outback 2.5 4EAT. 166,000 miles. Starts easy, lots of power, great idle.Threw a P0325 knock sensor code while driving up a moderate grade at 35 mph. The knock sensor had a crack in the plastic housing. It ohmed out OK, but I went ahead and replaced it with an OEM sensor.Drove it up the same hill today, as the first test drive with the new knock sensor. CEL again; this time it threw a P0113 intake air temp code. It was pinging noticeably when the CEL lit.So I find this to be a puzzle. With the new knock sensor, I would think that if it hears pinging, then the timing should dial back, and the detonation would be reduced. The knock sensor is installed in the correct orientation to 17 ft/lbs. The sensor wire from the ECU has 4 volts. That all seems right.What triggers the P0113 code? I filled the tank with Chevron Supreme and a bottle of Techron, and ran the same hill again after clearing the P0113. It didn't ping and did not code on me. Maybe it was bad gas that came with the car? Should I throw an air temp sensor at it?

Good clear photos- thanks for posting them. I may end up pulling down the headliner if the system leaks under real time conditions. I wound up pulling the inner wheel well liners off behind the front wheels which exposes the drain tubes leading to the front 2 corners of the sliding glass. I blew some water up the tubes which cleaned out some gunk. All four drains at each corner of the big sliding glass now appear to be clear. I see no evidence of a drain for the forward, smaller tilt-up glass. I am beginning to think that it is intended to seal with it's rubber seal.

Thanks agin all. After looking at a parts schematic, it appears as though in addition to the rear drain holes there are forward drain holes on the sliding glass part. I'll try and locate those today. What about the smaller forward glass that only pivots up. How does that one drain? Moosens- The one part I need is the forward slider/cover thing. It's broken. Sounds like you still need that piece though?.

Messed with it this afternoon a little bit. I found the ends of both rear drains, and blew air up into them and they seem clear. I then poured water into the outside sunroof rails. The front end of the car is currently on jack stands, so the water could flow backwards easily. Water pisses out on both sides by the rear wheels so I think the rear drains are clear. I think the next step is to try and pull back the front wheel well liners and see if I can find the ends of the front hoses. I sure can't see anything from above near where I think the holes are where the glass pivots up.

I think I'll drive the car for a month to let it prove itself, then drop the headliner. The wrecking yard idea is a good one. I need the front slider shade too that's busted, so I'll look for a limited.

Just purchased a 2000 Outback Limited with 165k miles. Runs well and seems in remarkabke shape. Judging from the lack of dust and grime in the rear and under hood areas, it looks like it has never seen a dirt road.The potential issue I'm facing is a leaky "moon" roof, though I haven't tested it yet. The PO had caulked both the front and rear glass, presumably to staunch leaks. I removed the calk and cleaned it all up, but cannot for the life of me figure out where the front drain holes are let alone the rears. I'd like to try and see if I can clear then and get them to drain properly before it starts to rain, which may or may not happen anytime soon here in California. I have included a picture here. Can someone get me close?

Would these rims fit a '92 Loyale? https://www.originalcarparts.com/car-manufacturer/peugeot-parts-accessories/wheels/peugeot-107-stalen-velg-14-inch-5401p0

DaveT - My Loyale is the same color as yours! I wish the axles I have were OEM. They are not. They are reman Cardones or equivalent. I suppose I could source good CVs and use the shaft I have.

What about this? HD Axle I don't see why its necessary to have them on both sides as it states. Cheaper than Raxles. Maybe better than the 8 year old Cardone that's on there?

Our '92 Loyale 4wd needs a driver side axle (worn inner CV), and I want to replace the brake pads and rotors on both sides while I'm at it becuase the shudder transmitted to the steering wheel when the brakes are applied is getting intolerable. Do you guys have a suggestion on sourcing these parts? I could do this at autozone, but wanted to see if there is a better option.

I agree with the above with regard to keeping the covers on. Driving on debris strewn roads and off highway just invites some stray piece of soething to get in there and cause havoc. Once the timing belt and other components that are serviceable behind the covers are replaced during a major service, the covers stay on there for the next several years. I don't need to check on it all regularly. You could take the piece of metal that caused your grief into the light and take a photo like that.

Thought I'd follow up on the fix here. Very simple- the negative battery terminal was original and as it is 31 years old, it was thin, corroded and not able to clamp tightly to the battery terminal. A new terminal fixed it. I had to drive to Santa Cruz to "diagnose" this but hey- cheaper than an alternator or starter!

Right. Forgot the two belt complication. If the driver side is broken- rotor no turny and the cranking cadence will be strange. If it's the passenger side, then you still have the weird cranking cadence. If you don't know when the timing belts were last changed, then if it were me, I'd pull the covers to have a look. Is the car in a place you can work on it?

You can't tell if the belt has broken/skipped by looking at the pistons while you turn the crank pulley bolt. The crank and pistons will be in motion with or without the belt. As was previously stated, you can remove the distributor cap and see if the rotor is turning when you turn the crank. If it doesn't- then it's the belt in all likelyhood. You can check for mechanical timing by getting #1 piston (front-left-by battery) to the top of its stroke and see if the rotor is pointng at the correct distributor plug tower.

Maybe the solenoid just needs a birthday. Can the plunger and contact be purchsed? Didn't see it ihere. https://www.aspwholesale.com/index.php

Thanks Dave- I'll have him check the battery like you suggest. If we narrow down to solenoid/starter why make the realy modification? Why not just replace the starter? Car has almost 400,000 miles on it and was wrecked once by my wife in 2001 who t-boned a 4-Runner. I replaced the front end sheet metal on that one. Then my son rolled the car 5 years ago avoiding a deer, and we patched it together again. He just uses it to go back and frthto campus nowadays, so a cheap quick repair is the way we wnat to go.

Now he's telling me it's putting out 14v so his no crank condition may be narrowing to whether he has a bad connetion, the 1.5 year old battery is weak (unlikely) or if its the starter. I explained how he can do a quick and dirty starter draw test. If it's the solenoid or worn starter, the I may have to look for one.

I have a mission of mercy to do this weeked that is 2 hours out of town. My son has an '87 GL that he tells me has a bad alternator which he diagnosed with his VOM accross the battery terminals and the voltage is around 12 v with the engine running. Connections are good and it's the original or maybe the 2nd alternator. I see NAPA has this one https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/RSE2138521 My concern is that I buy the part and it's just a little different so it won't fit or the pulleys arte different etc..... you get the idea. With all the collected wisdom here I am wanting to know if these alternators are pretty unversaal for this car? I think his is a Hitachi.

I bought a new sensor one to keep in the car, and I'll check all connections as suggested. I do use this car in the boonies, and a no start could be "inconvenient".

Happened again today. Finally did start. I put my generic OBDII scanner on it and get a 0335 crankshaft position sensor fault. I cleared the code, and it starts but hard to trust it now.....