yblocker

Cranks pretty strongly when it does crank over. The sudden stopping make me think the end of the armature is cocking in the bushing. Not sure if these are supported by bearings or bushings. I might just pull the starter and have a look.

I'll check connections; battery is 1 year old. Fuel presuure sounds like a possibility too, though power to 5k rpm seems normal.

I have noticed with these cars that they are very consistent with how many times they crank befroe they fire when cold. If however, for whatever reason you release the key just a bit too soon- just as it's ABOUT to fire and it doesn't start, then it will take a bit of cranking to get it to start on the 2nd try. By "a bit of cranking", I mean like 3-4 seconds or so then it will fire right up. This behavior seems pretty consistent. This human error induced hard start happens to me maybe 2 or 3 times a year. Today I did this, but the car was then very hard to start. I would crank for 5 seconds or so then it would suddenly stop cranking as if some resistance was encountered- like the timing belt folding in on itself or the starter is jamming or something. I would release the key, then re-engage the starter and it would crank and stop again. I went through this routine 5 or 6 times, then on one cranking session it sputtered a bit- then I tried again and it started, idled smoothly and quietly like usual- the only noise being the injectors popping. I drove home without any trouble. 130,000 miles, original starter, 10,000 miles on a new belt, rollers and water pump. I re-used my old tensioner (with a new bearing/roller) because the one I got in the kit was made in China and I didn't like the look of it. The original Subaru one was nice and stiff like it's supposed to be with no sign odf oil weeping from the damper. It's the sudden stopping of cranking that bothers me the most. Any ideas on this?

Thank you. There look to be many KYB iterations that would fit, but I want to retain the stock height back there.

Is KYB 341065 correct for the rear for our 1987 GL 4WD SPFI? Thanks!

I had this same thing happen to our "06. I spliced in more wire.

The 110,000 mile service interval is due on our 2006 Outback 2.5. I presume there is a kit that includes belts and all the tensioners/rollers. I plan to change the water pump while I'm at it. Are there different styles of water pump gaskets? Impellers plastic or metal- you know, that sort of thing. Is there a preferred kit and water pump I should be looking at, or should I base this on price alone?

So i stopped by the dealer today in Oakland and the parts guy printed the page with that detail. No washer- only the u-shaped thing that must be some kind of soft material. As for the stray bolt- it didn't come from my car as far as I can tell. I get the used pump and pulley tomorrow. After it's all together, I'll take the old one apart to see where all the racket is coming from. The noise is especially bad in cold weather- sounds like playing cards in the bicycle spokes!

The high pressure line connects to the side of the pump with a banjo bolt with oil passages. I'm not SURE that I'm missing a washer; it just looks like there should be one there, so my hope was that someone has had one of these off before and remembers.

OK, I sourced a used pump and pulley. Is there supposed to be a copper washer where the high pressure line connects to the pump? All we seem to have is a u-shaped thing the banjo bolt passes through. I don't remember seeing a washer when I took it apart, but am a little worried that I dropped/lost it because the rebuilt units do supply a washer.....

Turns out no wrecking yards in my area have this car and I think the range of years for this style remote reservoir pump is 2005-2008 (?) Dealer does not offer the pulley separately. I'll have to run it for the time being, but will try on the WTB on this site.

Well it turned to be not what you'd expect. Evidently a stray bolt got kicked up behind the pulley and jammed itself in there which was making the the noise. The pulley got bent in the process, so I'll try and source a pulley and put it back together. Glad I saw this before I removed the pump!

2006 Outback 2.5i. Power steering pump failed at 75,000 and was replaced by the dealer. Now 3 years later, the 2nd pump is going- I can hear it and see the pulley wobble. This one is on me. Where should I purchase a replacement? The belt is damn tight. Could that be a possible cause?

Is there a good option for going to a wider tire? I'm thinking I might have to go to a 14" wheel, but I guess I need to think about keeping overall diameter within 1/2-inch or so of the stock 185/75-13 diameter. Is there go-to rim for this purpose? 13's are getting hard to find too.

CEL comes on with application of 1/4 throttle or so. If driven carefully, it won't come on, but we all know these cars need to be given plenty of gas to keep up with normal traffic.....Then when the key is turned off for about 5 to 10 seconds, a slight click can be heard and then on a re-start the CEL is off. Car is an '87 GL 4WD 5-speed with SPFI. Codes set are 32 (Oxygen sensor or circuit) and 51 (neutral switch). The O2 sensor is new. Where does the one wire leading from it connect to? The code 51 is strange- what neutral switch? Related question: When the green diagnostic connectors are connected, OR the white Read Memory wires aren't connected, the LED flashes 6 short flashes and repeats. What does that indicate? Thanks for any ideas!

You can use a tandem bicycle rear brake cable (it's long enough) to repair your broken hood latch cable. The hood can be opened with a long screw driver and some fussing from underneath. Remove the grill and the latch assembly (3 bolts), hook the anchor end of the brake cable to the latch then thread it through the housing into the car. Re-mount the latch, make a handle out of wood or whatever you like. Easy.

The sound would be uneven though- with at least one cylinder with closed valves making compression. Remove the distributor cap to watch the rotor turn as you crank or just pull all 4 plugs like was previously suggested and then crank. You need to remove all 4 plugs because the other side of the engine could be the side with the busted belt if that's what it is. You should hear air pumping out from each plug hole while cranking. Are you sure the sound is coincidentally just the noise of the starter motor not engaging?

We wound up pulling he lines out so we could tighten the (loose!) oil pan bolts while in there. After cleaning everything off, the o rings were obvious, It's all back together now except for some details- ran out of light. Thinking we should flush the system, but need to figure a way to contain the mess!

Do they seat at the bottom of the fitting in the box, or on the shoulder of the nut?

The steering rack will fall right out of there with the exhaust and sway bar dropped. Ruparts: I see no O-ring at the line connections to the old unit. These fittings appear to be common pressure fittings with a tapered seat with no need for an O-ring. Am I getting this right? Also- Turns out the u-joint was fine. False alarm on that.....

Uh oh. The steering shaft U joint is toast. Local Pick N Pull doesn't have one. Anybody got one they would part with? (I also posted in the wanted section).

Thank you. I'll have to scare up the o-rings after it comes apart, and I'll see how that mounting bushing looks. The new rack came with the tie rods, so that part is easy. I guess I should flush the system too after it's back together. How is access?

My son and I will be doing this job Sunday. '87 GL wagon has over 375,000 miles. I have a recon unit in hand, and though it seems pretty straight forward, I was hoping an experienced hand could share some tips.

Hey that's a good lead to Crutchfield- thank you. I guess I'll go 5.25" as it looks like an easier fit. I cant' see on the Crutchfield site what dimensions are given for stock- but as far as depth is concerned, will 2" or less fit?

We have a '92 Loyale with stock speakers behind the front door panels. The car has an aftermarket (I think) 35 watt x 4 cassette/radio in it. I want to upgrade the speakers. It looks like 5.25" is about all the stock location will accommodate. Is that right, and do you guys have a suggestion? The stock speakers are very tinny sounding.