yblocker

I agree about the smog guy. I think they have some latitude for the spec. It was my wife who took the car there, and the first time the timing was at 23 degrees BTDC, so I set that back to about 20, so at least that is now right. He called foul on the idle at the re-test. The reason I backed out the throttle stop screw was because even with the idle air screw all the way in (gently seated) the idle was over 800. I then backed that stop screw out and when the engine was hot, and had a very stable 700 rpm idle. I thought I was set. This morning the car started, but did not have the cold engine high idle, and was balky. I would up putting the stop screw back to where it was and I think the cold idle function is back, but so is the generally high idle when hot. I found another TB at the wrecking yard today and also pulled all the little solenoids etc. This weekend, I'll remove my TB and pull off the IACV to clean it. I'll have an extra one now too to compare against. I'm hoping I'll find a base gasket leak causing a vacuum leak, or that the IACV is hanging up or something. The car consistently idles at about 1,000 rpm when first coming to stop, then within 15 seconds, it slowly goes down to 850 or so.

Putting the idle stop back to where it was should put me back to where I started though right? Can the idle switch on the other side of the TB get damaged by backing out the stop screw?

I hear you. I haven't removed the IACV yet. If the symptom persists today, I'll put the throttle stop screw back to where it was and see how it reacts. I need to study up on how to retrieve codes too.

Car is a 1992 Loyale, e82 5 speed.The tech would not allow the car to pass CA smog because the idle was 850 rpm. I checked all hoses for vacuum leaks- all good. I tried the air bleed screw on the side of the TB and it made some difference but in the end I backed out the throttle stop screw. Now it idles nicely at 700 rpm, but as the car warms up, I get an intermittent CEL that flashes randomly. Once the car is hot it stays off. Any ideas ?

Here it is.

I'll post a picture when I can. I guess I'll live with it for the time being- at least until i get proper sized tires for the thing. I did wonder why it was so difficult to compress the spring enough to get that nut started,,,, I would be interested to lean what KYB part number has been used on wagons in the past. Maybe I'll have to go to another manufacturer, because if what, 175eya says is true, then not only does it explain the application-part number cross over, then it also suggests that I may never get that stock ride height with a kyb shock unless I can get actual dimensional specs off the web. I'll measure the originals after I retrieve them from the trash bin, and compare to the new ones....

I have the KYB # 1620231 The 1613978 is also listed for a 4wd Wagon. Pretty confused now. Seems like some application cross-over. Does anyone know the correct KYB part number for a 1992 4wd Loyale wagon?

Yes, I've driven it. It drives and handles fine but still looks jacked to me. One problem I think is the previous owner (I just bought the car) put 170/75-13s on the car, and the ones in back are worn smooth, so they really looks lost in the wheel well.

As the title states- looks like a set of '70's Gabriel Hijackers are on the car ('92 Loyale). I didn't compare the spring perch height with the old shocks- Maybe that's the root cause. The springs really needed compressing to get the top nut on the shaft. I wonder if the ride height be adjusted back there?