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stratman977

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Everything posted by stratman977

  1. stratman977
    The max major diameter of a m10x1.25 is 9.972mm (.3926in) and the max major diameter of 9/16-12unc is 0.5609. It's basically only an 85 mil increase per side which isn't a whole lot. The major diameter of a helicoil thread is proprietary but I'd guess it's about 1/2 way between the virgin thread and the 9/16-12. To me it doesn't look like its going to be a problem if you never have to remove that insert but it's really your last chance on the hole without welding. I would use a helicoil or use a time sert before I went with one of these but you can install these for less than $15 compared to $50+ for a helicoil kit or a timesert kit.
  2. stratman977
    I just did the front om my 88 gl with 127k on it. They were original and suprisingly weren't totally dead. The were pretty weak though. I went with the monroe on the front and kyb for the rear but when I went to change the rear they were recently changed with monroes so I left it alone. I'd get new strut bearings for the front as well. The rubber in mine was pretty cracked and the bearings weren't real smooth anymore.
  3. stratman977
    I have 1, I have been waiting to put into my ea82. I had a helicoil in there but I think I drilled the hole a little off because the helicoil threads didn't tap out too well. Theres a little for it to grab but not much. I am going to see if sleeve retainer will be enough to hold it before it put that thread insert in. For what its worth I think it will work just fine but I don't want to drill the head with the engine in the car laying on my back under it so I didn't throw it in there yet. Don't know about the ea81 though.
  4. stratman977
    If you post a pic of what you're repairing you might get some pretty specific advise.
  5. stratman977
    Mine didn't line up that well either, used a long screwdriver so it could get some bend to it.
  6. stratman977
    Should be able to get the back oil pan bolts with a 10mm socket on a swivel. Theres also holes drilled into the crossmember to get at the rear bolts if you didn't notice them. Screwdriver goes right to them through the hole. I changed the oil pan gasket with the engine in car before so it can be done.
  7. stratman977
    I am not certified either but have similar training as you. I still disagree with you but arguing isn't helping the OP because I doubt he is doing anything other than a backyard pack and spray.
  8. stratman977
    Not trying to offend you but If you talk to a professional body man you will get different advice than what you just gave. You don't sand the sealer because you apply it just before paint. If you wait more than 24 hours you have to scuff and re-seal. It forms a chemical bond with the base coat rather than a mechanical bond with the scratches. Point is if your relying on mechanical bond you need 400 grit dry scratches or 600 wet scratches. If youre applying within the drying window you get chemical bond and don't need scratches.
  9. stratman977
    Gloyales advice above is good except don't sand above 800 grit before the color coat. The paint needs the scratches to adhere to and you don't want too fine of a finish. And the 600 to 800 grit is wet not dry. If you sand dry use 400 grit at the most. Also be sure that the primer you are using is meant to be sanded. You should sand at least an inch past any rusted metal to ensure you got it all. They do sell a 2 part glue, to glue in a metal patch if you don't have a welder. That will make it last much longer than just packing the hole with bondo. It's really best the cut out all of the rusted metal if possible rather than try to grind it. The most important thing you can do to prevent rust from comign back is to coat the back side of the repair with your primer. It sounds in your case you want to patch a small area, primer it, then blend in some paint. You need to make sure you scuff the area around the primer where you plan to blend to. Before you paint it also helps to rub the area with your thinner. It softens up the paint. You want to slightly overlap the old paint with the first coat and then gradually extend a little with each coat. This makes the repair not as noticable.
  10. stratman977
    Best bet on the stud is to replace it with a new one. Any auto parts store will have it on the shelf for a few bucks. Those aluminum threads in the head are prone to stripping out so be careful. I use loctite sleeve retainer to keep the studs in and liberal amounts of anti-seize on the exposed threads to keep the stud in good shape.
  11. stratman977
    I always have good luck with the NTK oxygen sensors. (Same company as NGK spark plugs) I have the set of sensor sockets but an open wrench worked better in the case of the subaru. Mine came right out and I doubt its ever been changed, but I also had oil dripping right onto it from an oil leak which maybe did the trick. The heat sheild on my cat was crumbling from rust so I just cut that part off otherwise I probably would have cut my hand open from the rusted sharp edges.
  12. stratman977
    I would have someone put that on a frame machine and take some measurments. If the suspension isn't tweaked than a come along and tree will pull that out good enough to put some used parts on it and get it back on the road. It may look like the frame is good but it might be out enough that you cant see and it seems to drive ok but it will have an large appetite for tire tread.
  13. stratman977
    Rockauto always has a 5% off coupon deal running. Once you become a somewhat frequent customer they send it to you in email. You can get the current coupon code here: http://www.retailmenot.com/view/rockauto.com
  14. stratman977
    I would use a real two part automotive primer over rustoleum/rattle can primer if you want it to last. If you don't want to spray it cause of all of the nasty fumes you can use a roller. If you use the roller method you want to use a primer that has a high build so you can sand it after it dries. If you put the primer on wet it will somewhat flatten out on its own but you will still need to sand it. Sand any area you want to prime first and clean it real well. After the primer dries sand it with 600 grit wet paper. I have been using this eastwood epoxy primer for my cheaper projects. It seems to work pretty well for how cheap it is. (pro grade primer can be around 300 to 400 a gallon.) http://www.eastwood.com/gray-epoxy-primer-eastwood.html A real paint shop will have a book of color chips and will be able to corrolate that color number to a paint mix. You might be better off going to a local supplier than buy it online and have it shipped. They can even put a custom mix into rattle cans if you need that. Some of the better ones use a special camera to match the actual color on your car since the stuff mixed to the subaru color chip won't account for years of fading. If youre painting the whole car you don't have to worry about that though.
  15. stratman977
    They just don't want to be bothered at the dealer because they have to look up the part numbers the old fashioned way. Find a better dealer or just figure out the part number and take it to the dealer and order it by part number. It helps if you take the shop manual with you and have the exploded view cause they use the same views but have more information than whats in the manual. Theres a few dealers locally and the one kinda tries, another won't help you at all, and the third the guys go out of their way to figure it out for me. The third dealer the guys behing the counter are always like "oh no its the loyale guy, whose turn is it this time."
  16. stratman977
    I would replace the heater hoses and the coolant bypass hoses (small coolant hose that goes into the throttle body, theres 2 of them). Thermostat, distributor cap and rotor, spark plugs, wires, air filter. If auto mayeb change the transmission cooler lines. Its a 25 year old car so anything rubber is dried out. The coolant hoses are the most important. If youre doing the timing belt, replace the mickey mouse gasket on the oil pump. It's easy enough to do while its apart. If you don't know what that is just search the forum it will come up.
  17. stratman977
    Just take a piece of the line to your local auto parts store and ask for how many feet you need. Tell them its for a transmission cooler so you get the proper braided hose. I'd replace the hose clamps while youre at it. You will probably need to top the transmission fluid to replace the little that dripped out. It won't be alot though. Just unscrew the clamps, cut hose to length, install clamps, top off fluid. Real easy to do.
  18. stratman977
    Pretty sure hes talking about the IAC valve.
  19. stratman977
    The factory manual has logic to diagnose the circuit for that code. Just follow the logic in the manual. The engine light just detects an electrical fault, its not any more sofisticated than that. Theres a link to a copy of the manual on here somewhere just can't find it at the moment.
  20. stratman977
    Mines not a brat but it goes up over the wheels kinda like you are thinking.
  21. stratman977
    I have a set of Mastercraft A/S IV 175-70-13 on mine. I'm not a big fan of mastercrap tires but they are about all thats avialable locally in 13". They are wearing well, are quiet and give decent traction. I'm looking at the firestone winterforce for the winter in the same size.
  22. stratman977
    Id look elsewhere for the BFG ko if that's what you want. You should be able to get them in the low $700 range mounted for all 5.
  23. stratman977
    The buttons are vacuum actuated. The vacuum line runs to a white canister (check valve) on the passenger side firewall and then goes along the hood lip to the driver side then through the firewall. Mine wasn't working and I had a vacuum line pop off on the egr solenoid which was causing low vacuum elsewhere. I used a mityvac tester and pulled vacuum at various places in the line until I found where it was leaking. I would pull the dash cover off that goes around the gage cluster and see whats going on behind the switches and then go from there. The don't give you any extra hose, cable and wire to work with back there so maybe someone was in there and pulled the connections apart.
  24. stratman977
    CDI is a industrial subsudary of snap on. They are not the same as snap on but are quality. You won't regret the purchase. I have a ft-lb clicker and its what youd expect for the price.
  25. stratman977
    No body filler over self etching primer. It doesn't adhere properly and will never feather edge.
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