stratman977

I didn't even realize that mine was broke until you posted this thread. Just thought they were supposed to be seperate. I didn't really notice a problem with the mount being broken, maybe the shfter was a little sloppy. I repaired mine while still in the car this weekend and I don't reccomend this method. It was a royal pain to get a nut on top threaded on. I still have to crawl back under and adjust it because now if I push it too hard into 5th it rubs on the drive shaft a little. I may just have the rubber bumper compressed too much. The more I read this board the more things that I find wrong with my car. Thanks for the info guys.

Theres ton's of them on ebay but for both books or all 3 books depending on the year but this was the cheapest one I could find. http://www.ebay.com/itm/1989-SUBARU-1800-ORIGINAL-SHOP-SERVICE-REPAIR-MANUAL-89-W-WIRING-DIAGRAMS-OEM-/380835914322?pt=Motors_Manuals_Literature&hash=item58ab96e252&vxp=mtr#ht_806wt_924

Make sure you grab the rubber bumper that holds the shifter up. It's bolted to the underside of the tunnel. I believe youre going to need the axles for the swap so unless you plan to get new ones you probably should pull them. Grab the electrical connectors from the engine side of the transmission, the front half of the drive shaft, crossmeber bolts, rubber bumpers from the crossmember, flywheel, flywheel bolts, pedal assembly, clutch cable. I would also grab the bracket from the hill holder cable even if you don't plan to put the hill holder in. It gives you a place to hook a return spring to. Also get an extra brake light switch and a few two pin wiring conenctors off of what every you can find so you can bypass the neutral safety switch. Those conenctors come in handy and look stock so I would grab a few. If youre going to try to swap the gage clusters get the body side wiring harness to go with it cause you will need to do some splicing.

Is there a good way of testing the operation of the electric fan. I was having trouble with the engine getting hot when the a/c was on during stop and go driving. I had some things apart and later I didn't have this problem anymore. I had planned to test the sensors and wiring but never got to it.

I lost my 3rd wagon wheel center cap last night. I m sick of paying $20 or so bucks on ebay for a used cap. I am have a new set of the plastic rings that I'm going to put on. Don't know if that will help. Anyone have a trick to keep them from coming off?

Dunno for sure but I would put my money on 10w30. I'm pretty sure around that time frame 10w30 was the reccomended all around oil for most cars.

Just go to a junkyard and grab a two wire solenoid valve out of another subaru or something else from the early 90's. Someone on here suggested a Ford Tempo and thats what I used. Grab the wire connector so you can splice it in easily. I thin I paid a whopping 3 bucks for one.

It took me an hour a piece. I changed sand paper every 10 minutes. I noticed it didn't take long for the grit to wear out. The only wet/dry paper in that low of a grit I could find locally was gatorgrit brand. I don't know if it was the paper or not but I would have prefered to have 3m paper. I would say mine turned out nice and flat but I would glady pay the local NAPAs machine shop the next time.

The smoke is basically whatever oil is in seafoam burning off. Basically you have a bunch of oil and solvent in the cylinders that can't burn off cleanly in one fire of the cylinder which is why you get the smoke. Its probably is a good idea to do it when the engine is warmed up or at least run it long enough to get the engine up to temperature afterwards so you dont have a bunch of unburnt seafoam laying in the catalytic convertor. I suppose you could foul an oxygen sensor but I don't think thats likely. I'm not sure if there is anything magical about the seafoam itself. Youre just dumping a high concentration of cleaner into the cylinders to loosen up some deposits.

Looking at it I was thinking along the same lines. I think the stop light switch from the auto pedal will go right into the bump stop hole for the clutch pedal. Thanks for clearing up what I actually need to do with the wiring. Hopefully I'll get time to think through it this week. As for the cluster I have the manual cluster from the donor car and the switch for the low range. It looks like I should be able to take the center board out of the manual cluster and put it in mine. I haven't checked if the plugs and wires match up though. I just need to map out the wires on both clusters and see what I need to go where.

If I shift the auto shifter to anything other than neutral and back the engine light goes immediately out. I think the computer is looking for a signal that goes on and then back off. Its code 51. It looks like the manual transmission has a neutral switch according to the shop manual so if I find the wires for that and tie into them I think that might work. Is the manual neutral switch in the transmission or is it really tied into the clutch pedal? Mine doesn't have anything on the clutch pedal if I remember correctly.

Sorry I guess I should have been more detailed. Its an 88 GL 4wd wagon ea82 spfi. I went from a 3at to a dual range from a 1986 carbed ea82 wagon. My main concern at this point is to prevent the check engine light from coming on for the neutral safety switch.

I swapped my auto for a dual range 5 speed last week. I still have some issues to work out but have been driving the car. I want to thank you guys for the wealth of knowledge on here to make this swap pretty easy. I did not do anything with the wiring yet. I have the automatic shifter sitting on the passenger floor plugged in and in neutral so the car will start. I noticed that the check engine light keeps coming on for the neutral safety switch. If I shift the auto shifter into drive and the back to neutral the light clears until the next time I start it. Once I bypass the safety switch and don't need the auto shifter anymore will I keep throwing a code or will this go away once the auto shifter is disconected for good? Also do any of you bother with the low range light on the dash? I'm assuming my auto transmission dash doesn't have the light in it. I really would like to take my odometer and swap it into the manual transmission's cluster but I don't know if this is possible.

Clogged air filter? Mine got swamped in a terrential downpour and had the same symptoms. Took the soaked filter out and it fired right up.

Any concern on color. I got a faded brown one out of an 86 wagon? It's not the greatest but will work.

In PA they won't take a full car without the title so you have to cut it in half. I ended up cutting the roof off, and then cutting through the floor at the front of the front door and at the rear of the rear door. I then cut it down the middle. 7 pieces total. I was able to lift each piece. Took about an hour and 4 sawzall blades. I used a trailer but could have hauled it in the back of my pickup.

I wouldn't say unfortunately. My friend has a farm car with broken front axles the they just run with the 4wd locked in and it barely moves off road due to the lack of rear weight. It's a donut machine though.

An old truck tire works good for sitting the engine down on the dolly.

Did they even try? Some dealers won't be bothered and others will go out of their way. If they didn't at least look up the part number and check the system they blew you off. Don't let them tell you they can't get parts for a loyale cause they can.

Mine has the #22 pressure sender instead of the plug. It's not just a female hex? The dealer should be able to look up that part for you.

It's in the factory service manual, Page 8 of Section 2-4. The can be downloaded from the second link in this thread. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/93894-subaru-ea82-service-manuals-full/

Napa sells the 14mm hex socket. It was $15. Although the way in the above post is clever.

It looks like the plug that goes into the back of the alternator but thats in the wrong area of the engine. The picture doesn't really tell enough. I see its laying between the throttle body and the power steering pump. I assume if goes into the wiring harness or is it a sensor? Can you give any more info, wire colors, check engine code, anything?

I just had one of these doors apart last night. I took out the guts of the door before I scrapped them. The inside and outside latches are on seperate rods. I would bet that the latch failed internally and its not either of the handles. I think you need to get the internal panel off. I don't think you need much room to pop them off. Just remove the trim piece for the internal handle first and I think you will be able to get that panel off. I can take pictured of the latch mechanism tonight if it will help.

I got both sides out safely today. Needed a better tool. I picked up a piano wire style remover from harbor freight and it did the trick. It took some effort to get the wire through to get it started but it went easy after that. The wire got so it hot it started to burn the adhesive. Scrapping this car is pretty relaxing. Its a good way to get out some aggression. I have decided that there's no way I'm crawling under this car so I think I'm going to roll it on it's side to pull the transmission.