Bushwick

Yep. That's what I did. I pulled the fan relay box out of the main fuse block along with the wiring, and only used 2 relays to kick a single fan (5 blade fan appears to pull more so used that by itself) on at full speed if needed and can run dual or better fans down the road. Fan needs power to both relays on a single fan to get full speed, like it's paralleling the windings or something. Truck has 2.8L w/iron head, intake, and block and runs at 195 degrees stock. With just the single 5 blade fan zipped to the radiator INSIDE the stock shroud, the truck stays at 195. Pulled a 2k pound trailer with the 3k+ pound Legacy on it (figure 5k pounds at least) and the fan was enough to keep it at or around 200 degrees when the poor truck struggled on inclines from a stop (silly thing couldn't get over 25-30 mph until the road leveled). So, it seems to be a decent flowing fan and even better is they are virtually silent, even on the high speed.

Why exactly do you think the hg are bad? Oil around the area is often from the valve covers leaking, NOT the hg. Valve covers can leak back towards the pan and air flow spreads it everywhere while moving. Even if you see coolant traces, it can be from a recent coolant change, hose failure, leak off the reservoir, etc.. Unless it's overheating, boiling over coolant, smoking, running like garbage, misfiring, coolant in the oil, etc. etc., there's unlikely anything wrong. Go to the store, and buy a couple cans of generic "oven cleaner". It'll have lye in it and is an aerosol can. Shake well, then spray the underside of the car (covers, heads, pan, etc.). It foams a bit on contact, so cover completely. Wait 5 minutes. Spray it off with garden hose water. Repeat the process for really heavy sludge. Allow it to dry. DRIVE IT. Check back underneath. Look for the leaks.

Probably valve covers. Like 3 bolts and they pop off. Get a new set and replace the inner o-rings too. If it has mismatched tires, make sure to check if the fuse is in the FWD slot or not if that year/model has one. Don't assume the dash light works for forced FWD. Once got a car that someone dabbed silicone onto the CEL LED...... If the fuse is in there, then you wouldn't notice torque bind. $2k for a car for your kid, is your call. As long as it's not falling on the unibody, it might be a good car for him.

Thank you for that as now I'll be careful with the trigger. Ended up harvesting the entire harness from fan motors to the relay block. For anyone stumbling on this in the future; if you separate the plastic backing covering the wires on the relay block bottom, you can follow the 10 amp fuse wire to each trigger as that should be the 12v+ (brown wire). The 20 amp is the fan power. The entire relay block separates from the fuse holder block and can be mounted separately if interested in doing a fan transplant into something else. Separately, there is also a 45 amp larger fuse (red base, clear window on top) upstream of the 20 amp fuse. Can actually transplant the entire fan assembly including the harness and relays easily enough. Using just the main 5 blade fan, powering one relay at a time = low speed. Apparently, both by themselves = slow speed i.e. one OR the other. Triggering both at the same time = high speed. Reminds me of a DVC speaker where each coil is separate and can play independently or combined for more power.

That's pricey to me for the mileage, RUST, and having an engine swap if the engine is used. You can find them at auction in other states, and ship to you w/o the rust, mileage, etc. for roughly the same price or fly out and drive back.

Looking at online stuff for the fan relays labeled "AC" in the under hood fuse box, all schematics show the spade terminals in a row from left to right. However, the actual relays have 2 spades top, 2 bottom. 2 are silver, 2 are copper colored. Using a 9v house battery, I can get the relay to click on/off, so can at least figure trigger out. However, I don't know if polarities need observed on relays? I know one of the spades would be ground, but does it matter which? I'm swapping a radiator fan from my '95 Legacy into an '82 S-10 (2.8L manual trans w/ mechanical fan getting deleted) until an eventual mid 90's Vette 350 w/man. trans and better cooling fans, etc. get swapped. Truck is still carb'd so everything needs to remain mechanical for the time being.

Cheating people by not disclosing anything is bad tact. The car didn't legitimately pass emissions, especially NOT with a P0420. Misfires left untreated mess everything from the cats up, dirty the O2 sensors, and dump gas into the oil as raw gas makes it way pass the rings. The coolant temp being ignored could be serious (head gasket) as the ecm wouldn't know how hot it was running or the sensor might be bad (hg vs. simple fix). The airbag light is on, so either it popped the bags and replacements bits were put back, wrong, the fuse is bad for the bags, a ground is bad, a sensor is bad, etc.. I can clearly see the bondo line in driver's rear quarter fender, as it wasn't done right. Driver's fender and front bumper hit something. The hubcaps are mismatched. And this doesn't include interior, driving, how it actually runs, etc.. It's NOT a $1500 car. You could by an auction Legacy in CA for $300-500, and ship it to your door for $1000 if you desperately need a clean beater in CT w/o all the issues. I've got 4 locally @$1500 about 5 miles from me if you guys want '95-'99 Forester/Legacy runners THAT bad. @Moosens Remind me to never by anything from you.

Converting a 1st gen S-10 to electric fans, and since I'm going to be junking my '95 Legacy, figured it'd be a good parts candidate considering it has 2 fans and everything is known to work, and it's free. I know the ej22 has a coolant temp sensor, but don't know if it's the same thing that turns the fan relay on? If so, is it an actual on/off temperature switch? Or is it only read by the computer, then the computer decides when/if the fans come on? If the Subaru coolant temp switch won't work for a basic open/closed at temp to turn the relay on to the fan, what's a super cheap car/truck that has one I could pirate from, or even get from the parts store?

Watched a quick tear down video. The external arm lever that the shift cable attaches to on the trans, is part of a rod that goes a couple inches into the trans, ABOVE the valvebody. At the end of the rod, is a metal linkage bar which is part of the gear selection. Guessing the bar broke, came unhooked, or whatever the bar attaches to failed. If you run into this on your trans and you are positive the cable is OK, you'll need to pull the trans pan, and look between the valvebody edge and the trans case (think there's enough room) and see if the bar is flopping around at the end of the shifter arm rod. Will need to drop the valvebody to fully inspect and then go from there. Ah well. Hate to junk the car but it's rust-rot is something else and has been on borrowed time as it is. Got 2 extra winters out of it by using a come-a-long to get the busted rear strut tower down and welded back (tires still wore evenly after this ), has about 5 cans of expansion foam filling the gap of where the inner rear fender once was (stuff works wonders and even retains water-tight sealing; the gaps it filled were inches wide w/o structure and every inch of the rear stayed dried even when going through heavy rain. Prior, water was spraying in and hitting the front windshield despite having a rubber mat over the wheel well). Still ran like a 50k mile engine despite being 195k.

Disconnecting the power steering belt will remove the power assist. No idea. I would try calling Summit racing, and ask if they have any Flaming River racks for a WRX. Summit has legit USA phone call reps. Conversely, you can try calling Flaming River direct and ask if they have something that works for Subaru. Other thing is if a bunch of people are running them, try asking them, even if in PM.

It's maybe worth $500-700 as-is. IF getting a P0420 AND misfire codes, that means the CEL came on and was ignored for a long time. The misfire being ignored destroyed one/both cats, meaning the honeycomb broke and is letting raw exhaust out the tail pipe (if the car has up/down cats, the up cat could be bad but doewn still OK, so it can mask the odor). The coolant warning would be another issue if it's been overheated and ignored. Worse case I have it backwards. The engine overheated, more than once, warped a head, caused a misfire, which after being ignored destroyed a cat. Sorry to bust your bubble, but if you sell that for $1500 the buyer is going to have to put serious money into it (cats, tune up, possibly coil, and hopefully the engine wasn't overheated). I'd give full disclosure and ask $900. People will talk you down.

I just picked up an '82 S-10 that came with manual brakes AND a manual rack from the factory. I honestly don't care for it. While moving, it's fine, but stopped and trying to turn, it's a pain and the truck only weighs 2900 pounds. I honestly wouldn't recommend it unless you were doing a drag build and running a large engine where space was a premium and it wasn't doing a lot of parking lot parking, etc.. On a stock Subaru, the tiny amount of hp the pump steals could be negated with a different pulley. If really curious how manual racks feel, unhook the power steering belt and try turning the wheel (don't idle long with water pump not spinning). If you are like "Yeah, that's exactly what I want in a DD", then consider getting a manual rack from Flaming River. They are popular in the Mustangs and can probably be retrofitted easily enough if nothing is out there for the WRX. They also have quick turn ratios.

Car was running fine around Dec/Jan, then I let it sit several weeks. Upon trying to start (been forced to put in neutral to start as the switch is messed up on the trans) I went to put it in neutral, and it bound heavily and felt rough like the cable was rusted. I muscled the shifter a little and felt it let go, where shifting out of park, feels like it has little resistance and doesn't seem to actually be leaving park. At the time, figured the shifter cable snapped, so left it alone. Today while inspecting the shift cable, I can confirm it's still intact. Going from park to 1, 2, D, etc., IS moving the arm lever ON the trans. My guess is something snapped internally? I really need to get it in neutral as I'd like to try and sell it but it needs to be able to at least start and ideally move. Any idea what might have broken?

I wouldn't worry about the oil pump. If curious or concerned about oil pressure, remove the stock dummy light sensor and install an aftermarket sensor there. Most units come with brass adapters that can be cobbled together to fit the stock threads and attach the new unit. I ran a mechanical gauge with an upgraded copper line, and sleeved the entire line in a small vacuum hose to protect it and prevent hard bends, and can view oil pressure w/o issue. Cold starts with 10w 30, idle is around 70-75, warmed up idle is around 10-12. Can run an electrical unit to avoid the possibility of oil entering the car (mechanical). The oil pump cover WAS pulled however when the timing belt was changed. IIRC, the pump cogs were pulled too. I used oven cleaner and on the cogs and cover, and degreased the oil passages elsewhere. With exception of minor varnish, it was pretty clean throughout. A poor history of oil changes or mostly conventional oil with poor services however might have a different result. It is easy to get at everything when the timing is is already out. I think I used anaerobic sealant to put everything back as everything has tight clearances and it eliminates the possibility of RTV breaking off and clogging a oil passage. Run a gauge and see where the oil pressure is at. If it's similar or better than mine, wouldn't be too concerned. I think mine is around 197k miles atm. Haven't looked recently.

I'll try and get the dip stick to the trans out and see where the line is at (hopefully it's still red in color). Still can't believe an o-ring can hold one in so tight despite spinning if being twisted. I had noticed something burning a bit/slight smoke the other day after stopping and idling in a parking lot before a Dr. apt. Popped the hood and couldn't tell where it was coming from. Thought maybe the valve cover was just dripping, but it smelled slightly off vs. oil burning. The delayed OD isn't too big of a deal (trans/engine has 195k IIRC) and it's strictly a winter car at this point (last year busted out several cans of foam expansion spray to seal all the rust holes and seal the gaps around the welded-in plates holding what's left of the rear strut tower together and sealed a hole forming on the other side; sealed rocker holes and another hole going inside; expansion foam is the BEST and my hatch area is 100% dry despite some nasty gaps where metal used to be; found a similar color spray can and covered any exposed foam ). IIRC, the trans fluid was done after I got it around 172k. Had been thinking maybe it was leaking a bit or something and tried to get that dip stick out, but it was like 10 below at the time so I let it be. The big thing throwing me for a loop is the creamy grease-like puddle. Never seen anything like it. I'll have to update once it's figured out. Thanks guy!

It felt like actual gear oil and seemed greasy like it. Also had a hint of sulfur, which trans fluid usually doesn't smell like. The trans dip stick is practically glued into the tube atm to the point I didn't want to have my knuckles go flying if the yellow top breaks off, so can't check the level atm. And to be clear, there were only a few drops/streaks of red. The actual puddle (if you can even call it that) is tacky to the touch and cream colored like silicone vs. a wet spot of trans fluid. Was wondering if the trans cooler line (pretty sure it has one to the radiator though not 100% certain and not near car right now) might have picked something up from the radiator and circulated the coolant back to the trans and it's puking that out now? Like if the side tank on the radiator cracked internally?

'95 Legacy w/ ej22 and 4eat. No CEL, no running issues (yet) other than some occasional times it holds "3" when really cold for awhile before going into OD. Had the extreme cold, now rain. Went to move the car and noticed there was an extremely cloudy substance under the front on the pavement, with some red mixed in. Feels/smells like gear oil, but it's red? Also, the cloudy patch is huge, and reminds me of silicone lube spray. No idea what it is, or where it's coming from (raining)? And if it's cloudy, I'm thinking water is mixing somewhere? Didn't see any green in the fluid. What uses a gear oil under the front?

Dunno what your checks are like in CT, but here in Ohio, "IF" there is an issue getting the OBD II connector to work with their diagnostic electronics i.e. it refuses to "connect" i.e. "talk" to each other, they'll instead do a straight-up tailpipe test on the rollers at lower speeds assuming there is no CEL or signs of tampering with the cats. Lots of engines can actually pass the tail pipe portion if they are running OK. I ran into issues with a crimping backing out of an OBD II port w/o realizing at the time, and the roller test was offered which it passed. I've also seen a 306 AND a 351W, in '79 and '80 Mustangs that both came with 2.3L turbo/2.3L NA engines pass the 2.3L limits with nothing more than quad/dual cats, small cam, and carb tweaking, back when our limits were more stringent. All about how good it's running.

The nozzle has the mechanical feature to shut itself off for safety reasons, like people walking away from the car. The quote I posted suggests it might interfere with nozzle's ability to self-turn off. If you start bypassing evap lines or plugging them, you might run into other issues with drivability. If that evap line is blocked completely (you'd have to plug it off) it won't be able to purge the tank of fumes when/as needed, and might start throwing a CEL, dunno how sensitive the systems are. If the vent is blocked on a healthy gas tank/car, as the fuel level drops, it'll create a vacuum. If the vacuum is strong enough, it can stall the engine. Dunno if the gas caps on these have vents or not. Not my strongest area. If it's a beater or something done as a temp. bandaid fix, it's up to you. For long-term drivability, I'd just fix it.

Heat? If you have a MAPP gas tank it'd probably get it hot enough, otherwise dremel the face of the bolt head off, then try heat to help with prying. If there's room, a big ol' pulley puller might help. My rear rims (steel) were so STUCK on the hubs that a a shop with a 5 pound sledge was actually destroying the strut tower remnants vs. getting the rim off (if finally came off). For other rim, used a pulley puller to grab 2 rim holes and centered it on the center axle spline divot. Probably pre-loaded it about 30 found pounds. Put MAPP gas on the actual rim while the puller was pre-loaded, and after about 3 minutes, the rim "popped" off (disclaimer** If anyone ever tries that on their rim, be VERY careful. The force of rim coming off is similar to setting a bead and in theory could break a finger or worse. Don't pre-load the rim to where it's flexing it. LEAVE a few lugs on the threads to keep the rim from falling off. The puller might get tossed when the rim pops off the hub.) If you can get the bolt head off, and get a puller on it, and apply heat, it'll probably come off. A cutting torch would probably work. Other idea is if you can get a cut-off disc in the area, might be able to "split" the cog pulley on one side. If you can do that and get a wedge in there, I suspect it'll slip off.

Gas pump shut off occurs at the nozzle, not the car Found this old link that explains what the car's shut-off does:

If the vibration from the wobble was bad enough, it might have ruined a crank seal, which would allow it to puke everywhere.

If it ends up being the fuel pump, might as well do a fresh fuel filter while you are at it. If it still doesn't start with a shot of starting fluid, verify the coil is still good. @280k anything can fail. If it threw a code, it might be a garbage code from the stalling/dying, so verify the fuel/spark first before trying to dive into areas that might actually be OK.

Unless it's a rare oddball or hi-po variant, etc. most aren't buying 15-20 year old cars to be a money pit. Me personally, I stick with cars that cheap to maintain if older. If newer, they have warranties. And TBH, $150 gets you an entire engine in my area.... so for 1 sensor I could technically buy 2 complete engines. Makes no sense. Better off buying used.

^ If you've never driven in the snow (my aunt's ex was born/bred Texan and seeing the hills/terrain around here put him in a state of awe and snow was something he hadn't seen in person before) or driven very rarely in it, that might be another good reason for a beater as you won't have to worry about scrapes, dings, dents, sliding into something, etc.. Although AWD is fairly capable with OK tires, might want to go an extra step and get some soft tread winter tires mounted for added extra safety while you get accustomed to driving on it. Areas that snow heavily, constantly, might not stay on top of it due to costs, manpower, etc.. I now locally, when it does snow heavy, they can literally salt the roads, and within an hour, it's already covered again. Further NE of me they get heavy lake effect (as does Erie) like a couple feet and it's more rural. And be aware, a light dusting IS enough to wipe out on. If you see idiots doing 80+ on the highway and the roads are getting covered or even dusting, something as simple as a lane change too quickly can cause the rear to kick out, which most will slam on their brakes and make it worse. "Black ice" is when the roads look wet like they were just salted. If it's around 33 degrees or colder, it's always possible. Bridges, etc. are more susceptible due to the wind. Best way to tell IF the roads are actually starting to freeze up, is watch the tires of other cars. IF water it getting thrown from the tires, it's probably OK for the moment. IF you see absolutely NO water getting tossed off the tire, very solid chance the surface has frozen or is freezing. If ever in doubt, stay in the right lane and go slower. If people are ending up in the median (you'll see a LOT of it in PA) that's a clear warning to not ignore. Another thing to do is find a large, empty parking lot (preferably w/o raised curbs, lips, etc. as the snow will hide them) and practice doughnuts, kicking the rear out then getting it straight again w/o stopping, panic stops, etc. etc. until you feel comfortable (brush up as needed; cops seeing you might consider it wreckless op, so always be aware; if people stop to watch while on the phone, they might be calling). GL and sorry for the rant. If you've never been in it, it can be fun, but also dangerous.