Bushwick

Works on mine. Check your firewall isn't blocking the site directly. Also, if their certificate is old, it might prevent connection through overly strict settings.

Running good when cold would make sense if running rich. Then again, if it should be in a closed-loop operation using generic tune, and sounds like when it's going to read the sensors after warming up, it's running into an issue(s).

The code goes out after you loosen the gas cap? Try leaving the gas cap loose (don't click it, just turn 1-2 threads in so it's in place, but kind of wobbly) and see if it eventually goes out. If it does go out, maybe the cap is bad and worth dropping $10 for a new one. If that doesn't fix it, look here: http://www.obd-codes.com/p0453 and diagnose your evap system.

Yeah, you should have a full tune-up. That means plugs, wires, fuel and air filters, FRESH oil change and FRESH gas. Unhook battery post so the ecu resets. If the car has been running poorly for some time, it'll need 25-50 miles of heavy foot driving to help it get back in shape (O2 sensors can get covered in soot from running too rich for example) after a full tune-up. If it still runs rough, you most likely have a sensor failing/failed, or maybe the cat is clogged. If still running the OEM muffler, it might have collapsed internally causing a blockage, etc. A vacuum gauge can tell you if the exhaust is obstructed amongst other engine issues. If cat is OEM, it's well past it's life expectancy. A P0420 can be: http://www.p0420.com/ read up here.

Why would you change the cam sprocket, and with what sprocket? An ej22? I'd figure out why it's igniting the other 2 coils before doing anything else. If the coil is getting the signal to spark but isn't, than it's bad coil. If the coil is NOT getting the signal to spark, work you way back from the coil connector, all the way to the ecm until you find out why. Seeing as how the PO swapped things around (used coil, different ECM, etc.) you can NOT assume he did this correctly, didn't swap a bad part in, left wires unplugged, forgot a ground, etc. Or maybe it has a damaged CPS sensor and is missing a tooth so the crank sensor isn't sending the signal as it can't fully detect crank position. Really need to go over everything with a fine-tooth comb and see what jumps out. Changing sprockets is a good way to ruin the engine if the count is incorrect and the engine is interference.

My 95' Legacy L Wagon w/ EJ22 was being sold for $1k IIRC and I talked the guy down to $850. It needed the rear crossmember replaced and new brake line plus obligatory maintenance, but otherwise started right up and everything worked and nearly 2+ years later, still does. It's picked up some rust and the body isn't the prettiest, but I wouldn't hesitate to drive it cross country. You seriously telling me that's worth $3500-$4000? I looked at Houston Craigslist and you can find 98'-02' Subaru w/o rust for under $2500.

@Gary Yeah, IAC buzzes key-off. Definitely putting a drain on battery and by winter battery needed replaced (I thought battery was faulty as it cranked fine until it got cold). Unplugging IAC stopped the sound, which sounds like a higher frequency oscillation. Haven't tried any battery drain testing as I already know this is staying on. Too windy/rainy to mess with it today, so hopefully can get to it tomorrow.

Thanks FT. I'll follow your directions and try and find them. I was looking more towards the back of the runners. Can I just trace the wiring back from the 16 pin connector? Or does it make a bunch of detours?

I think the fact it was being jumped and was over a foot off the ground (that's not photoshopped) should scare you right off the bat. That's extremely hard on a unibody that doesn't have a cage. Looks as if this person beat the hell out that car. Some of their description sounds flaky as well. You can definitely find better. I think most of the people saying "It's a deal" were glancing at the pics of what the car looked like when the seller bought it.

PASS. Um.... am I the only one that noticed the car was mid-air in this image: and that's on pavement? To get that type of air on pavement, you'd have to be MOVING at 60+ and hitting something like a raised train track crossing or a very small bridge, and I seriously doubt they got that perfect still shot in one take, unless they grabbed a still frame from a video. PASS unless you want a parts cars that probably pulls badly and shakes. Also, those pics are NOT recent. Some have stickers on back windows, some don't. Some have silver rims, the airborne shot doesn't. The cleanest pic appears to be what it looked like when that person bought it, which is shady and deceiving as they are anachronistic.

For what it's worth, I worked at a used car lot back in the very early 00's, and kinda saw some of the inner workings. If a used lot has a $2500 car, they probably paid $900 at auction and might have $500 into it, for example. Mid 00's, my mom went and looked at very clean, low mileage 96' Ford Escort that was in the back lot of a Ford Dealership that would keep the cars on lot after trade-in for a week or two, and if they didn't sell, they were sent to auction as they constantly got new trade-ins daily, and only so much room. Since my mom knew nothing about cars, I spoke up and hard-balled the guy and he told me what they had in it (total) and how much they were wanting to make on it. So it's worth asking, and depends on the sales guy really. Used lots however will probably be tight-lipped, but both should be fairly honest about what work they've done to it so you can ball-park how much they have in it. You can always push further and state you'd like receipts of the work which most places shouldn't have an issue with if they have them. Also, trade-in prices are low due to the fact it's their burden to move the car. Your $16k Impreza was probably scooped for $9-12k

It's common knowledge used trade-ins are almost always LESS than what you'd get if you sold it outright. Sometimes it's way less. If you are at a new car dealership, the sales guy may or may not tell you. It's not a new car, it's a trade. Worse that'll happen is he won't tell you. I mentioned asking something like "how much do you have in it?". Pay attention to the reaction as he'll either say "we just looked it over and haven't really done anything to it" or something like "Ah, well we put new tires on it and gave it an alignment". So that tells you they probably have $400-600 into it. Go in there like a mouse, and they'll act like a cat. Go in like a dog, and chase each other's tails until you get a price you are willing to pay. Be prepared to walk out w/o getting anywhere if you are dead set on saving some money. Kelly Blue Book or whatever book the dealers are using. Used to be able to buy them at gas stations or book stores. They basically list what all modern cars are going for. Online, think you have to pay for a subscription, and you'd have to look it up on your phone constantly. Book is handy, but it'll be out of date in a year.

Engines that require higher octane fuel, do so because of static compression ratio or due to being forced induction. Wiki states the EZ30 is 10.7:1 which is rather high for a street engine. Most performance builds for V8's 10:1 is often the watermark as pump gas only goes so high in the US. If you don't run premium, it'll ping and pull timing back making it less responsive, and detonation can be very destructive on an engine. So while it might "run", it's not running at peak efficiency. Remember, octane is the ability to resist detonation, and with an engine at 10.7:1, it'll be more sensitive to this than a 9.5:1 compression ratio. Run what's it's supposed have. Read this: http://www.contactmagazine.com/Issue54/EngineBasics.html for some basics.

Also, repos end up in used lots all the time, and quite often the used car lot guy doing the bidding gets those for a song, and it was being driven before being repossessed, so usually there's nothing wrong with those unless they were trashed. I'd probably be most leery of ex-rentals as god only knows what abuse they've been subjected to. BTW, I just read about CL scams were people are flying in from out of state, renting rentals, printing fake documents, then selling for a huge discount as if it was theirs, then immediately flying out of the state to avoid being caught. Apparently people aren't realizing they were duped until they try and register it and find out it belongs to Hertz or whatever. Not entirely sure how that works as the title isn't easy to fake and you'd think the notary would realize it wasn't real, etc. So just be careful if you try and go through private hands.

Think the biggest factor is the actual dealership and how much money they have into it. If they took it in on trade for $15k and put $500 into it, you won't get them to budge. If they took it in on trade for $12k, and they put $500 into it, and it books for say $13k and you can find issues with it that the buyer will apparently need to fix, and you have cash, you can try hard-balling them for book or a little less, but expect a "no". You can try and ask "how much do they have into it" and "what they paid for the trade in value". If they say "sorry, we can't disclose that" you can try hard-balling back with something like "look, I'm interested in the car but it books for $xx,xxx with that trim and mileage, and I know you don't have more than $7k into it, so how about working with me here and you'll get a sale for the effort". Or try something along those lines. Market and demand for that model/year/make/trim will dictate how much it's legitimately worth. Know book value going into it and add every option it has, and subtract any defects, then try coming in slightly under that. I don't think dealership sales guys are as swarmy as they were 30 years ago (used car guys are another story) and they realize the bottom line is to sell the car. I'd strongly suggest having an actual back up car to refer to, such as "dealership B has 2013 Impreza with less miles and clean history for $11k, but it's a manual and red, and I'd rather have the blue auto you have outside, so work with me here as you'll make money even if it's sold under book price as I know you don't have more than $10k into it", etc. etc. I once looked at a 3 year old Cobalt back when they were still being built and it was a trade in on a dealership lot, and the guy wouldn't budge more than like $250 below what was on the sticker, and we had cash and had to walk. I will say though, you might get a better deal on a used lot IF they don't have a ton of cash into it. You gotta be careful though, as all cars go to auction, and quite often they get a quick "does it drive OK" check, and then it gets dumped on the front line in the lot. But if it's actually sound and in good shape with no serious history issues, you can often score a better deal as it was likely a trade-in to a dealership that didn't have room or it wasn't selling, and the used lot bid on it at no reserve, etc.

Unless you can monitor the cranking fuel pressure, there really is no way to correctly verify the pump is working correctly. Mine was bad but the motor still spun. I suggest checking voltage at the fuel pump while holding the key in the start position and engine is cranking (careful not cause sparks over tank opening as there's fresh air being blown over the tank; I could feel a breeze on mine + air in the car is enough to be dangerous). If you see battery voltage at fuel pump wire while cranking, it's getting power. Replace the pump. If you go through Auto Zone, get their Delphi pump as it's actually meant for the car and comes with everything needed minus a new sock.

Don't forget to check the fluid level while the hood is up.

You'll just have to see if it squats and go from there. If you have family, gear, hitch, then boat, you want rear stable at all times so as to not negatively affect braking. Turbo + ECM to handle boost, timing + fuel pump and probably injectors + all the hardware + intake and exhaust will be a fair amount of work, but once in, you'll have options on fine-tuning boost, etc. Buying a $500 SVX, or searching high and low for a deal on an EZxx engine would give roughly the same amount of early torque needed for towing and might actually be easier and cheaper to do. Either way, it'll help to have a donor vehicle if sticking to stock power levels. If you want to go super cheap and have power to spare, stick a small block Ford 302 in it and run a used Tremec and carb the engine Would only need a handful of wires going to the engine and you could have 240 hp from a basically stock engine that would put the car into the low 14's on weekend grocery store runs. Drop $1300 on a set of AFR 165 heads and run good shorty headers, and you'll be around 400 hp and probably high 11's

Fairtax, you around? Can you specify where that ECM ground is? Is it part of a connector, or does it ground right to the runner? Can't find it.

Do NOT crank it. Hand turn cams and crank with ratchet or breaker bar. Engine is interference.

If possible, pull the oil pan and look for junk on the screen like metal flakes that would indicate bearing failure. Get a fresh set of tires on it, do both head gaskets and get the heads checked for warping (that's a must). Might as well run new plugs, wires, cap/rotor if it still has them, fresh oil change and fresh coolant with DISTILLED water. Replace the thermostat at the same time and might as well change the radiator cap. Get it running and inspect if the fans are working and if it's still overheating or not. If oil was badly contaminated but bearings are OK, fill it with cheap oil after together and drain after some idling, then fill with fresh. Hopefully most of the contaminated oil is purged, but if you discover bearing material in the pick up screen, it'll need completely torn down, cleaned and professionally inspected.

I'd look more for signs of previous accident damage that went unreported. This is quite often overspray on weather molding, rubber strips, bumper supports under the cover, peeling around headlights on bumper covers, paint on bumpers, fenders, hood, etc. being a shade or 2 off from the body, over spray on the foot sills when opening the doors, poorly aligned fenders, bumper covers, doors, etc. Run fingers under the lip of each fender (top side of fender lip, reach under fender lips and run finger on top of the metal, full circumference) and feel for bondo that oozed out, drill holes, etc. Look under car and see if the exhaust is dented with concrete scrapes suggesting it was curbed or ran over something big, check the floors, etc. Look for missing screws, bolts, nuts on engine and engine covers, look for freshly wiped grease, etc. Though if buying from a dealership, they might have done routine maintenance, and usually they have engine compartments detailed. If engine sounds good and idles smoothly, and runs/drives OK, doesn't over heat or have weird odors or sweet odors, chances are the car is OK. I've bought cars with questionable histories and slightly "off" colorings on bumper covers, etc. but they ran, drove, and shifted correctly and didn't pull and stopped as they should, and put 60k+ miles on them as I knew they were mechanically sound from testings. If ZERO history and non timing chain, I always go through and do a full oil change (full synthetic), plugs, wires, fuel filter, timing belt, air filter, check coolant, power steering fluid, brake fluid, trans fluid (manual or auto), inspect CV boots if it has them, check brake rotors and pads, check ALL the lights, check power seats, windows, locks on each door, sunroof, heat/AC, vents all work and each button functions, etc. etc.

The poor man's alternative would be remove the resonator and slip fit a straight pipe, then cut the muffler off and buy a 3" inlet/outlet Summit Racing Turbo muffler I linked above, and buy 2.25" to 2.5" adapter, then a 2.5" to 3" adapter, and jump your factory pipe to the 3" muffler size. Most (possibly all) muffler shops will NOT do this, and more than like they'd try and heat the pipe then clamp it to crush down if they were even willing (need a custom muffler shop, NOT a Midas or chain location) or better yet, do it yourself. That will allow it to sound a littler louder as you'll have the 3" outlet on the muffler, but will still sound cleaner and MPG shouldn't tank.

The NA engines rely on certain amount of backpressure. If you run a straight pipe back, your MPG will tank and you'll find you are pressing the gas pedal further down to get up and moving from the loss of low-end torque. If you want more sound, try running a 2.5" cat-back pipe and run a muffler designed for more noise, but still internally baffled (like a Flowmaster 50 series). If that's too loud or annoying after a week, unbolt that muffler and try running a Summit Racing turbo muffler http://www.summitracing.com/search/product-line/summit-racing-turbo-mufflers (non welded casing as their welded variant is basically a generic Flowmaster 40 or 50 series) and you'll get a cleaner sound w/o being raspy or loosing low-end power. That muffler is a good muffler to drop weight (6 pounds vs. 45 pound stock muffler) and will probably free up 5-7 hp. Running straight pipe on a turbo'd engine is different as the exhaust turbine alters the sound somewhat, and the decrease in back pressure actually aids turbo spool up, so it counteracts the NA's loss of back pressure as boost is earlier.

If the car is stationary, it might have "200" pounds over it, but once moving, that 200 pounds (is that all the boat weighs?) is going to be constantly shifting, and down force at 55 mph + whatever the boat is doing, will be enough to squat your car badly. And if you have several occupants + gear in the cargo area, you'll greatly wish you'd done the rear suspension right. I think they make a bladder bag that sits inside a spring, that drag racers use to preload the right rear to limit the amount of uneven squatting under hard launches but making that spring firmer. No idea what they are called, but it'd probably work. Leave it deflated for daily driving, then push the compressor switch to firm it up. I know when I pulled 750 pound car dolly empty, it barely had 100 pounds on the tongue as most of the weight was over it's axle. My car had air ride and bags at all 4 corners. It'd spend 10-15 seconds filling up the rear just from the tongue weight added at idle.