Bushwick

Finally got correct replacement pump and it was about exact. Came with the sock retainer clip, feed hose and 2 clamps. Also had a rubber spacer the pump sets on which matched OEM. Extra was a foam slip cover, akin to a beer can holder and 2 zipties, so it's actually more secure than OEM. Primed on/off about 6 times and it fired right up. Sounds stronger than before too. If you want an exact replacement, get the Delphi.

Thanks. Gas tanks are one area every " i " gets dotted and was concerned.

Anyone? I'd like to try and start it. The rubber boot is over the + end, and it's fairly snug, but I'm just wondering if gas seeps into the boot and top of pump is wet, will it short out?

Trying to make sure I'm not loosing it or forgetting something, but if BOTH connectors are submerged or wet across the top, how does that not cause a short (not a spark short, but like submerging + and - together?

I thought you were running an auto. Just plug the auto trans cooler lines on the radiator. You have no O2 sensor whatsoever? Or are you referring to the downstream O2? The speed sensor isn't connected? What trans are you using?

I popped the cover for the first time to the fuel pump access hole, and saw nothing but rust, then saw the tiny studs being held in place by 5/16" nuts (might be metric, 5/16" was snug with all the rust). Busted out WD-40 (only thing on hand) and soaked everything down. Then was surprised everything cracked loose w/o instantly shearing the skinny studs, but after a couple turns, the nuts would bind. I went a little further hoping the binding would stop and sheared the stud right off. What to do? Not wanting a bunch of sheared studs, I tried tightening one back down, spraying again, then loosen until it started binding (maybe around 5 ft/lbs of resistance) and tightened again, sprayed more WD-40, then backed off further, and each time the nut loosened a little more. That worked for the remaining nuts and thankfully each came off after only loosing one, which shouldn't be too much of a concern. I never tried that method before with re-tightening once it binded, then spraying the threads down again. Worked like a charm though and figured it was worth sharing. My fuel pump appears to have never been removed in 21 years, and it's seen it's share of winters. Hope it helps someone.

I called them back and he ran through different years, etc. and it still showed up (Spectra 5211005). He then checked a Delphi variant (Delphi CFE0342) and that WAS the same as OEM (longer, separate posts; power post has a boot around the wire and resembles an old ignition coil) or much closer and doesn't have the molded in connector like the Spectra. Unfortunately the Delphi costs nearly $30 MORE (it has a lifetime warranty, so it evens out I suppose) and they had to bring one in from another location, but I'm not a fan of cutting or splicing anything that sits in a gas tank, and crimped on connectors sit too close to each other on the Spectra, and there's always the slim possibility of one wiggling loose and sparking. Thankfully the guy working was willing to drop it off after work, so kudos to the Auto Zone guy.

Fuel pump I got at Auto Zone is much smaller than what ended up being in the car, which appears to have never been replaced before. Also, the replacement has a socket for the wiring, whereas the factory pump has separate wire lug posts. Is this normal? Kinda pissed as I had to walk nearly 2 miles there and 2 miles back to get the damn thing which was supposedly their only one.

Then that's the relay I think I'm hearing. During key on/off, the relay just sounded loud and hollow. I was thinking it might have energized briefly then tripped off, or something could be wrong with it. Got a new pump, so hopefully it starts.

Tried running my spare Saab off a 9v battery and it made some nasty noises (dunno if it'd be quieter with fuel in it or not) basically identical to a house fan that has dried bearings, so going to just get a replacement fuel pump at store and see what happens. Figure it still has OEM pump, so having new regardless makes sense, even if for piece of mind. If anyone could tell me where the fuel pump relay is, I'd appreciate it, thanks.

Was finally able to get it to fire off starting fluid, but nothing more. I tried priming about 20 times (key on/off) and it let it out a sputter, but nothing more. Before messing with the fuel pump, where's the fuel pump relay located? Are the 95' Legacy fuel pump itself fairly generic? I have a spare stock assembly laying around for my Saab, that I grabbed at a yard and appeared to have been just replaced. Thinking if the pump is fairly similar, might be able to use that (it's free and laying on a shelf) as I don't have a ride to the auto parts store and will likely have to wait a couple days for a store replacement.

95' ej22 cranks, no start. Fuel pump is priming. Won't catch on starting fluid. Hearing a relay clunk once with key-on, behind left-most dash vent area well above driver's fuse box; dunno if it's making normal sound or not as I don't remember hearing it in the past. Timing belt is still attached, and has roughly 20k miles on it. No idea if it's getting spark. Car ran and was running when parked. My fuel return line was leaking prior, and I pinched it up in the engine compartment and ran it like that for about a week until I could get the bad section bypassed. A couple times after parking briefly, it wouldn't start (just cranked) and I was able to unpinch the return, crank, and it immediately fired up, pinch line again, and it ran. That's not working now. I tried a light spray of starting fluid, and it didn't even try to fire. Not sure what the deal is. Ideas?

Has it been sitting outdoors? If so, just sitting moisture w/o car being used can almost be as bad as road salt, especially if it's been sitting over grass/dirt. Things right off the top of my head that can be troublesome are: Seized brakes (pads will stick to rotors and be need a good pounding) from rust on the rotor surface. This can be bad enough to actually make it impossible to pull it (do NOT try and use the engine's power to move a car with locked brakes, as it can actually break motor mounts). Brakes might feel warped. If rusted bad enough, they'll need replaced or resurfaced. Water in the gas can be an issue, as well as gas being bad. Engine might run rough or not at all. Fuel filter will definitely need replaced and fresh gas added. If you treat the gas with a water remover, do so on a full tank. I'd put 5 gallons of 93 octane in if you buy it and used that to get it to a gas station. Rodent damage is serious concern. If they get in the tail pipe, they might have created an obstruction. If engine starts, but the tail pipe smokes badly, but isn't blue or white, rather an inconsistent grey that stinks badly and "hangs", that's most likely a rodent being smoked along with whatever it packed into it's nest. You might also have a rusted muffler (internally rusted). They can collapse baffling. It engine feels really underpowered after fresh gas, this might be why. A vacuum gauge attached to the engine will help decipher this. I'd check oil before starting it. Get it running, see if it'll move, then check EVERYTHING for function. This means heat (check defrost, heater defrost, panels, etc.), AC, all interior lights, door locks, power seats, windows, back up lights, high/low beams, flashers/ turn indicators, radio, sunroof if equipped, etc. etc. If it moves and drives, see if they'll allow a trip around the bock, or if they have a long driveway, use that. Don't push it hard as you don't want a brake line rupturing and you end up in a messy crash. Anything electrical not working, might be fuse related, rodent related, or the reason they parked it. Ideally, you'd want to raise each corner and check for ball joint, wheel bearing, tie rod, strut, damage, etc. It might present itself driving as a slopping steering wheel, car pulling opposite direction as steering wheel, etc. Would be wise to know how old the timing belt is. If it's been parked for years, it'll be old and dry rotted most likely and need replaced. Serpentine belt might be the same. Tire dry rot shouldn't be ignored. Why everything mentioned might be on the anal side of looking a car over, every little issue you find can be a bargaining chip to get a reasonable buying price.

I don't think trans cooler hoses are high pressure. I'd at minimum run an external cooler possibly with small 8" - 10" fan (like a small Summit trans cooler) if it's not getting fresh airflow through the fins or is running too hot, and just use it's hoses and clamps. If trans is older and high mileage, you definitely want it as cool as possible to prolong life, especially if it sees any off roading. The radiator side for a trans cooler should be a direct in and right back out. As long as trans fluid is out of it and you aren't planning to reuse, leaving it unplugged shouldn't matter. Otherwise either find a proper end nut or leave a small hose section and jam a bolt in it to keep corrosion/dirt out or just loop it back to itself. Try and put up O2 as close to the factory distance from head as possible, and try and avoid installing on a pipe bend as it might mess with the readings. Consider looking at VW kits for inspiration on where they are welding the O2 bung at. If you have to lengthen the wiring at all, try and use the exact same wiring (if it's 18 gauge silver wire, use 18 gauge silver throughout) and use heatshrink to protect it and consider installing a molex-style extension adapter vs. cutting your O2 up. Moisture on the wiring can actually cause codes to appear and screw with O2 readings.

Buy them and see if they rub (make sure they always fully inflated). If they barely rub, you could buy the thinnest spacers and run those, or sell the tires and buy the correct 17" tire that fits. Though that will cost you a little more as you'll have to pay to have each tire pulled and mounted, plus the balance. If you get tires locally, they might offer a better deal. If you are OK with used tires, go to a used tire shop, and ask the manager if he'd be willing to take your tires on trade for replacements + mounting. You might get a better deal out of them doing this then selling outright as you'll have to make a trip to get them pulled, run an ad, hope a buyer shows up and doesn't pull the "I only have a $100 on me" BS when you were asking $250, etc.

It sounds like he has a FWD Subaru, which a front end only alignment and new front tires would be perfectly acceptable, unless it was AWD and someone yanked the driveshaft or is leaving the fuse in 24/7 (assuming he's got an auto). Having 4 matching tires in AWD is mainly to keep the tires all spinning at the same speeds. On FWD, you can mix the rear tires and it won't really matter unless one grips better than the other or has better braking traction, but if you have the money, it behooves you to run all 4 matching. In a really bad accident that kills someone, I suspect a higher-end bull dog attorney could argue if you had correct tires it might have avoided an accident, etc. which might look bad in a jury trial.

^ Well there you go. Sounds like you'll luck out. Don't forget the anti-seize and make sure you have enough room as the anti-foulers stacked + O2 add nearly 5" of length which can hit things.

Are you running a FWD Impreza or other FWD Subaru? I'm running 14" stock rims on my Subaru and went with Walmart's Douglas tires. Think it cost a touch under $250 for all 4 mounted and balanced, and I think they offer lifetime rotation but I might be mistaken. They were excellent tires for the snow and actually made it difficult to kick the rear out (not impossible, just more difficult) vs. some Michelin tires I ran prior. Also, I've yet to hear they squeal on turns. I ordered a set of high performance 17" tires for my other car from Tirerack. Think I placed an order on a Thursday morning, and they were here by 5 pm that Friday, which was mind blowing to be honest. They have a major hub in Indianapolis, so that was part of the reason. One of the other things I like about them is they have brutally honest reviews. If the Goodyear tire is getting Porsche drivers P'O'd, they let you know. They also have a rating scale for most tires, and some of the Japanese tire brands score very high with wet, dry, snow traction if looking at all season, and have excellent wear ratings, etc. Was actually surprised how poorly some of the Goodyear and Firestone, Dunlop, etc. scored strong on dry, then horrible on wet roads, etc. Well worth at least researching the tire if you plan to push it a bit. I went with the Douglas as I didn't want to dump a ton into the Subaru, and other than the sidewalls being a bit on the light side (it supposedly offers a better ride, lots of touring-style tires often have softer sidewalls) it's a decent, cheap tire and so far it's wearing evenly, but not excessively, though car had new tie rods and an alignment right before they were installed.

If the CEL is lit, it might go into a closed loop. What engine/year are you running? If you do the anti-fouler trick, CEL should remain off, but it might run rich. I did this briefly on my Saab and it ran extremely rich, and entire pipe was sooty. Once new cat was put in and anti-foulers removed, it went back to normal running. You can buy something like this: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mpe-53956/overview/ for $70 + tax. That's only 8" long by 4" wide. That's 2.5" pipe. Should be able to find 2" to 2.25" as well. I'm assuming you are running a Subaru engine with Subaru ECM, which for whatever reason hasn't been reverse engineered yet, so you can't simply shut the 2nd O2 off or compensate if it starts running rich or even too lean. You can run it rich, but you'll risk cylinder wash. Too bad you aren't running a Saab with the T5 engine management system, as I have the hardware adapter for those and could flash your ecm and shut the 2nd O2 off (I live in Stow).

Have you checked the plug connectors going to the bulbs? While it's unlikely both could be dropping at the same time, I know I've had issues with my bulb connectors being brittle and loose at the bulb's spade terminals. Ran a conductive grease in each connector to help. Might be worth tracking down the head light bulb's ground to chassis and see if it's corroded or broken. These are things that could be influenced by the car's movements and road vibrations. However FT is probably correct that the switch is wonky. I ran into an issue recently with the wiper stalk set on intermittent in really cold weather cutting in and out, but it was clicking a relay loud enough to alert me to it.

If you have the filter or option to run one, get in habit of changing every 1-2 years. You wouldn't believe how gross they can get. It's pretty amazing people don't get really sick more often from the crud they hold as they can get moldy and all sorts of junk stick to them.

I've been wondering if the HG failure rate on the DOHC 2.5L isn't a result from using too small diameter head bolts? If the 2.2L doesn't have the HG issues, what's truly different other than the head being lighter and only running one cam and sprocket? I've wondered if you drilled out and tapped the heads/block, and went with a beefier ARP head bolt (non stretch) and maybe added 25-45 more ft/lbs while also running a top-grade HG, if it wouldn't eliminate the issue altogether. Having the extra weight and stresses from 2 cams on the smaller head bolts might be the reason failures are so predominate with that engine, especially if the bolts aren't keeping the head firmly in place.

EDIT: NVM

I was referring to flat plane cranks, not boxer engines in general. Very few engines run a flat plane crank, though it might get popular. Ignore the music and watch this as it shows how a flat plane crank works vs. cross plane. The flat plane demo shows a typical V8 and each cylinder is "paired" with another in the combustion/exhaust event. It changes the sound of the engine, the ability to rev, the powerband, etc.

I've purchased tires from Tirerack, and they are great for performance tires, and most local shops honor them and will mount/balance (some shops are getting too picky and prices vary wildly, so call around or use their online locator which should list mounting costs; $7 a tire is BETTER deal than $20 a tire). I'm running Douglas tires from Walmart on my Subaru as I just needed inexpensive, all-season tires. Think all mounted and balanced was under $250. Tires had excellent traction in the snow, though the side walls aren't the strongest, to be careful not hit things or go into deep pot holes. STOP ADDING junk to the oil, gas, etc. You are most likely doing more harm and opening a can of worms making the car more prone ti future issues. Add full synthetic oils instead. Replace air, fuel, and oil filters at same time as oil change. I suggest draining the trans (if auto) and adding fresh fluid. Drain the power steering fluid reservoir and fill with fresh, superseded fluid. Your steering effort will greatly improve. Mine felt stiff after buying, and got worse within the 1st year, and I thought the rack was failing as steering effort was sticking at certain points. Replaced with fresh fluid and the change was basically immediate and steering effort went back to a smooth, effortless sensation that was better than when the car was purchased. Also suggest draining the rear diff fluid and topping off with fresh gear oil, as they can get contaminated over the years. If rear cross member is rotted, replace it. They can and will fail. New plugs and wires are recommended too. If your rack bellows are ripped, replace ASAP, and might as well replace tie rods at same time. Inspect CV boots too while at it. Doing all that will ensure a happier car in the long run with minimal issues. Keep adding snake oils and you get what you asked for.