Bushwick

Yeah, can't cheap out with "rubber" pipe couplers. They MUST be silicone if near the turbo as the heat will cause cheap couplers to slip off or fail as they get VERY soft when hot. I made the mistake on my Saab after shoe-horning the current turbo in and used a non-silicone 90 degree elbow right at the inlet on the cold side, and it slipped off during a 2-3 tromp coming around a turn and inhaled a piece of the elbow spacer, which busted a blade off the then fresh rebuilt turbo. Had to replace the compressor (which was already new) and pay for another CHRA balance. Didn't make that mistake a second time, and sprung for a more heat resistant elbow that cost almost double, but definitely a must. It'll be cheaper to just replace the turbo with a good used unit, but you need to inspect for play in/out up/down by grabbing the compressor nut with thumb ans index finger, then lifting up/down while trying to spin. It should NOT touch the wall or bind excessively. In/out should be solid with no movement or binding. The compressor nut threads should be left-handed, so I'm surprised the nut came off? Usually, the bearings wear (cheap oil going beyond oil change recommendations) or more likely the thrust washer fails first, which causes the shaft to move laterally, and every time it goes from vacuum to boost, it rams the thrust washer more and more, until the blades clip themselves on compressor housing. As long as you have an intercooler, it'll prevent most chunks from reaching the intake manifold. They might get lodged into the intercooler rows (internally) or be laying loose on the intercooler's inlet side. You should remove the intercooler and shake anything out. You can also rinse tjhem out (I suggest filling intercooler outlet side first so anything in there will have least resistance to exit) and hopefully and small bits exit. If you are up to it and can afford not driving the car for a few weeks, go online and buy a replacement compressor wheel (must be exact) then send that plus the CHRA (or send the entire turbo if you don't know how to separate the housings) to G-Pop. They've done my turbo balancing and prices are decent. They can install new bearings, new thrust washer, put your new compressor wheel on, then balance the entire assembly and ship it back. I think they charge $65 for balancing. If you buy a compressor wheel directly from them, it'll probably cost more. The upside however is they'll do a full inspection and check for stress cracks, etc. (hopefully your hot wheel/shaft are undamaged) and you'll essentially have a "new", "tight" turbo that should go 100k miles ++. Here's G-Pop shop's site: http://gpopshop.com/ Call them and explain what's happened, and see if they'll give you a quote. It'll be cheaper than buying a new turbo, which will need adapted to your housings, clocked, your fittings swapped over, etc. If you have them rebuild it, and you can install/remove the turbo itself, I imagine you can keep prices in the $200-600 range depending on how much they have to do it. If your hot wheel/shaft are OK, bearing kits online are $50 roughly, cold wheel on common turbo is $45-75; balance is $65, then whatever they'd charge to reassemble. I had to buy a hot wheel/shaft as I missed some stress cracks that were hidden under carbon build up, and I think it was close to $125 for just the wheel/shaft. I bought everything else myself aftermarket, and had an upgraded turbo with larger compressor housing, larger compressor wheel, new bearings and 360 degree thrust kit, for roughly $550 not including the error I made and damages from the rubber elbow, and this was on a Garrett GT25 series turbo. Just doing the wheel, bearings (a must) and thrust collar kit + balance should be a fraction of that.

Flat plane crank engines fire 2 at the same time, like Ford's new 5.0L engine. In those engines like the 8 cylinder, it fires more like a dual 4 cylinder engine, where 2 pistons mirror each other throughout the combustion cycle, vs. more traditional V8's that fire each piston at it's own time. A 4cylinder flat plane crank, would fire like a dual 2 cylinder engine.

I've messed around with my headlight relays in my 95' Legacy before, and if one relay is pulled while lights are on low beam, both lights go extremely dim as it's apparently trying to send a low voltage to the high beams instead. If inside the car, it'll appear as if the lights are completely off, but if outside the car and looking at them, they appear as if 9v is being applied to low beams, or what it'd look like if the battery is dead, but it's the high beams being under-powered as it's creating a short to the high beam filaments despite low beam switch on. Did you actually replace BOTH low beam relays? Or did you just reverse them? If one was bad or going bad, or just being tripped up from a surge or an infrequent short, it might be cutting power at the relay, then it resets and goes back to working. Like Fairtax suggested, try idling the engine and leave head lights on, but sit outside the car and watch if the lights are going really dim, or completely off.

He'd have to have a fuse in there already and it'd be the other way around i.e. FWD being on all the time with fuse in, then AWD coming on out of the blue.

I'd drain all the fluid out (wouldn't worry about what's in the actual converter) and add fresh trans fluid (it's been superseded since car was made, so go with newest fluid you can find) and refill after seal is replaced. Start engine and run it through the gears D,3,2,1, and R, then N, then repeat a few more times (do NOT drive it or move it). With engine still running, check trans stick. You can ballpark how much to add initially by subtracting what should be in the converter from what was drained. Add a little more and run through the gears again. Also worth checking if it's leaking at the seal again or not. Keep doing this until it's reading on the stick. I suggest staying a touch under the stick line than adding too much. Once it's close to the line and you've made plenty of redundant stick wipe, insert, pull, check, repeat, and it's been through each gear, etc. and almost on the line, take a for a quick, calm ride around the block, then check stick again and add enough to get it on the line. Trans shouldn't slip, or take long to enter gears. If it starts slipping, takes forever to go into gear after selector was moved, etc. it might have damage. Otherwise, if all goes well, give a few days of driving, then drain and replace fluid again, as this will hopefully be enough time for the OLD fluid in the converter to mix with the fresh fluid added, and by draining and refilling, it'd should be fairly fresh. Could do this again in 6 months just to be safe. The older these trans get, and the more miles added, the fresher the fluid you should be proactively adding to keep it happy, as fresh fluid will have friction and seal additives, etc. and will be less prone to premature failures from heat, slipping, etc.

What engine? What year is the OBDII? Up O2 is important for proper engine running. Down O2 mainly monitors the cat's efficiency, and if cat is missing, will throw a code. If you want to run cat-less is most cars and don't have the ability to turn the down O2 OFF via software, you can buy 2 spark plug anti-foulers. They can be found in the same thread size as O2 sensors, and you can buy them in the "Help!" area at Autozone. You need to drill out the center hole on ONE of the anti-foulers, then thread both together and thread into down O2 bung (I strongly recommend applying a small dab of anti-seize in both including the bung and down O2 threads or they may not come back apart w/o a torch being used) and thread down O2 into that (google will show plenty of DIY help). Anyhow, the anti-foulers pull the down O2 out of the direct exhaust flow, but still allow it to sample, and it'll fool the ECM into thinking a cat is in place. To be honest, you can add an aftermarket "race" cat which is short and roughly 1/3 the size of a glass pack and not have any issues, and most likely have the same power. If cat is already gone and running straight pipe, the anti-fouler trick will stop the CEL on most engines, but it may run REALLY rich. Should definitely monitor this. A race cat will at least cause it to run normal, but make SURE the style of cat is correct for the engine. If it's a non Subaru or something you can actually tune on a software level, you could correct too rich, 2nd O2 off, etc. Other option would be carbing the engine as you'd be able to fine-tune the way it ran.

Clogged radiator fins (like say you drive down a long, gravel road every day and gravel dust is constantly covering the car and condensation causes it to stick) can cause overheating under engine load, even at highway speeds, then run normal temps at idle. I've actually experienced this. Internally clogged rows will reduce efficiency as well as prohibit the radiator from cooling the engine under load (like say tap water is run in the system and deposits build up). My ex had had a VW Beetle with the 1.8t engine, and I did a full timing belt, water pump, etc. and it had air that was extremely stubborn to get out. At idle, for extended periods (winter weather with heater on no less), it'd gradually start climbing, once moving, it'd cool. It took several days to get the air out. Open your bleeder screw and bleed the system.

I can smell brake fluid when it leaks, even if the leak isn't readily visible. Pop your master cylinder brake fluid cap and smell it (don't let it drip and touch painted surfaces as it'll eat the finish right off), then crouch and smell for that around the car. It's easier to smell in a garage or low wind. Brake lines can rot up above the rear crossmember areas. It can also leak going near the front brakes. If it's not raining, start pumping the brakes while parked (do this at home) then quickly get out and look if it's dripping on dry pavement. If you don't see anything, get on your back and look up under the unibody at each side of the car, and see if the underside has a wet spot, and try and visually follow the brake lines from each rotor. If it has an external leak, you'll find it eventually. Hopefully it's not the master cylinder.

My lower hose stays cold as well, and seems to remain much cooler than other cars I've owned, and that's with normal temps. Loosen your bleeder screw and bleed the system.

Switch. If you accidentally spill something that remains tacky (like pop, coffee) it can cause switches to act up like that.

Check your fuses. I know if a crank position sensor fails, it'll cause no fuel/spark. They can fail w/o warning and are vital to running. I'd inspect it and probe with a multimeter and see if it's getting power, along with probing the sensor unhooked to see if it's in spec. Good news is CPS are easy to replace and not that expensive. Could save a few bucks by getting one at rockauto vs. local parts store, though they might not be too expensive locally.

If the radiator was low, then you had to add coolant twice, it's possible it still has air in it. There should be a bleeder screw on the passenger side engine-facing of the radiator. Mine looks like a plastic screw by itself that's really easy to miss, about mirrors the upper radiator hose connection point. Try bleeding it there.

You ruled out all 4 wheels? They tend to seize in pairs. Emergency brake lever will only hold the rear rotors. You might be able to knock the rotor's hub (not the area the pads grab) while sticking a bar between 2 studs and work it back and forth ( --`---.-- ) <-- the 2 dots would be studs, the straight line would be a bar, work it clock-wise and counter-clockwise while tapping the center with a dead blow (don't need to over do it as it's possible to crack the center area); water poured on the inside of the hub from the back should help loosen the rust bound temporarily. I wouldn't suggest a PB blaster or similar as it can contaminate the pads and cause an accident. Also, the e-brake cable back where it enters the assembly might be sticking, so worth a drop of oil on the cable and try pulling the lever the cable feeds into in the opposite direction. Once the rotor at least moves, you should be able to put the tire back on and gently rock the car forward/backward until it rolls freely, then drive it around the block a couple times and ride the brakes gently on and off to clear the surfaces, and very gently pull e-brake while holding the button in while going no more than 10 MPH and keep foot on gas to maintain speed. You just want the shoes to engage the pads enough to knock the rust down. If roads are wet, be careful as it can lock the rear up and fish tail easily, though 10 MPH should still be OK. If brakes pulse really bad once moving, apply lighter pressure on and off. Sometimes it'll work itself out in 25 miles, other times you need rotors turned or replaced.

If you swap into a manual car, I'd recommend installing a new clutch, throw out bearing, and cleaning the flywheel surface while engine is out, as you'll probably never have to worry about it for 100k+ miles. What rust are you talking about? Are you referring to the rear cross member? If that's rusted, it's super easy to replace. My 95' Wagon had completely rotted and broken rear cross member, and rear hatch had a rust hole near the license plate. I paid $15 for a used cross member that came out of a very high mileage wagon that someone had installed a brand new cross member in (doubt it'd been in the car for more than a year tops, and might have come from the south), so $15 was a steal. Took several hours to swap it over. Think I paid $45 for a rust-free hatch that was complete. If you are talking about the rear body section where it connects near the bumper cover, you might find a body shop that can repair it for a good price.

If you know someone with a decent truck or similar and a chain (make sure it's 10k pound rated as it might snap a 5k pound cable and only attach to tow hooks) you could try putting the car in neutral, then pull it to level ground. Stay in the car and have it idling so steering is unlocked and if it does free up, be ready to hit the brakes. Maybe pour some water on the tires so it gets under them, and tires should slide initially. If possible, pull it down the decline so gravity works in your favor.

Hopefully you didn't set the e-brake as those can seize up on basically any car and can be a pain to free up. Disc brakes, the pads can stick to the rotors as the rotors develop surface rust from moisture and are also a pain to free up. Do NOT try and break the seizing by slipping the clutch or "gunning" it. You can actually break motor and trans mounts doing that, along with other stresses including wearing the clutch or even glazing the flywheel. Raise one tire at a time with a jack, and try spinning by hand. If it won't move, put tire back on ground, crack all the lugs loose, raise it back up, remove lugs and tire, then try tapping the pads until rotor spins. Could try pouring water on it aid release. You might have 1-4 wheels locked up.

As Fairtax stated, try chasing and add a longer bolt. I'd also recommend buying some red loc-tite (make sure bolt hole is clean and dry) and apply some to the bolt and it'll unlikely back out and you shouldn't need to crank it too tightly. In the future, if it's too tight too remove, add some heat to the bolt head and it should loosen. In lieu of a heli coil, you could also try tapping the hole to the next size bolt as that's be a permanent solution, though you'd need to see if the tensioner's hole would need enlarged or not.

PA has visual and emissions inspections which many states either don't have, or only have emissions and as long as they are NOT throwing CEL and able to pass a tailpipe test (when required) can be done but many/all states don't allow older engine into newer bodies, and some only (legally) allow engines that were an option for the car/year. States with only tail pipe and no visual other than cats, you could put a V8 Chevy in there and as long as it wasn't exceeding the limits set for the engine that came with the car, even 4cyl, it'll pass, hence you might see an odd engine in a daily driver online with normal plates. PA is up there with NY on overreach. I don't even think you guys are allowed to have rust on the body. I'd talk to a couple inspection shops and ask what they actually check (are they running engine VIN and checking it against the car's VIN?) when doing an inspection. Will they auto-fail if OBDII connector doesn't connect but tail pipe test still passes? Are they more lenient with older cars? Can you run a newer engine (block and heads) in an older car? If turbo was an option for the model from the factory, can you add everything and make yours the same? etc. etc. If you wanted to add a WRX STi powertrain, you really should buy a complete roller and swap EVERYTHING over including all factory wiring, cats, evap, etc. and cross fingers it'd fly with the test site.

Try pulling the ABS fuse (car off for safety's sake) out from under the dash, then start the car. If the ABS light isn't on now, then the bulb is probably dead or missing. If dead, pull the cluster and replace the bulb and reinsert fuse. You might be able to get your hand behind a loosened cluster and twist the bulb holder out (some cars this is possible and easier than unhooking everything as they have a simple socket; someone confirm if Subaru is like this). Then see if the light is actually coming on or not, and report back. How do you know ABS isn't working? Are the tires leaving a solid patch on HARD braking?

You haven't changed the oil in 30k miles? If you plan on keeping the car any longer (assuming it's not already damaged) get in the habit of 3-4k mile changes. I run the best synthetic oils and by 4k miles it's always been dark and ready to be replaced regardless of the engine and driving habits. If driving the engine hard, then 3k miles.

Then I suspect you'll be posting here in the near future asking for help as your valves are bent due to a belt failure, or maybe you'll be one of those people junking an otherwise OK car after the motor is junk. Unlike timing chains that typically just stretch, belts do not last and will break w/o warning.

You do NOT want to wait until 100k miles on interference engines. Rubber belts can literally break at any time, whether just idling or babying the engine and shifting at 2500 RPM with light throttle pressure, it doesn't matter. On interference engines, it also doesn't matter as it can damage regardless. Sometimes you might luck out and not damage anything, but that seems to be rare. Is it a DOHC or SOHC? SOHC is less involved as you aren't trying to align 4 cam sprockets with the crank sprocket like on DOHC. I had done at least two other timing belts (most of my cars have been timing chain) before buying my 95', so I had a rough idea what was expected, and like your car, I couldn't get a clear answer on when the last belt was replaced, and car had 172k miles roughly, but at least was a non interference. Belt did appear older and was most likely overdue. Anyhow, going into it blind, about 15 minutes to remove the fan shroud assembly and unhook it and maybe 10 minutes to remove timing covers (1st time taking your time, and assuming all the bolts actually come out w/o snapping) and alt/ps belt. Decide how to crack the crank bolt loose (5 minutes with breaker bar on pipe and bumping the starter). From here, you can cut the old belt in under a minute, remove the pulleys and tensioner in another 5 minutes, install new new pulleys in 5 minutes, install new tensioner, slip belt on, align the cam sprockets with crank in 20 minutes. Hand crank engine a few revolutions to be sure valves aren't hitting, then start engine briefly to make sure all is well. Replace covers and fan shroud another 15 minutes. Water pump is optional unless it's squealing or original. I think mine was done in an hour roughly, and the hardest part was the small screws snapping on the fan shroud assembly. Dragging feet should be 2 hours I imagine. 3 hours is what the shops are quoting from a service manual as a general guideline. Good shops will be done quicker than that. Lazy shops on a slow day might take every bit of the 3 hours. 13 hours? They are probably a hole in the wall shop that seriously don't want to touch the car for whatever reason- avoid that place at ALL costs.

This link: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2310341 might be useful. Has pics and steps that person used to diagnose. Some of it might be helpful. If you let a car sit awhile, it can still rust and get corrosion, especially if it has old road salt dust caked everywhere and that interacts with morning condensation. If not ran regularly, sensors can stick, wires nibbled, vacuum leaks are created, etc.

My tach bounces the same way when slowing sometimes. Seems to only occur in colder weather as I've only seen it happen during the winter weather and may be an odd trans issue when it's downshifting or coming out of OD and dropping to 3 or 2. Although rare, it could be an issue with the actual speedo. If they use a sensor (and a motor?) in lieu of traditional cable, it could be slop somewhere or who knows as they might not be 100% calibrated after 20+ years and thousands of miles. If you have a donor cluster assembly on-hand, it might be worth trying to connect that and see if it does the same thing or not. TBH, I wouldn't worry about it. It's probably an age thing and unless it quits altogether, why bother? Plus, if the speedo assembly is bad, you may or may not be able to only replace the speedo section while leaving mileage alone. If not, car will have to have a disclaimer attached to the title that mileage is wrong.

It's hard to say without seeing all of it, but it could be different year trim, maybe the PO used some textured rattle can paint, etc. If you are talking about the fender lip color, that looks like "orange peel" from a cheap paint job.