Bushwick

Could be an EGR issue. If you have tons of build up on the ports, etc. it can cause those symptoms. Scroll down to the "Problems with EGR" near the bottom: http://www.agcoauto.com/content/news/p2_articleid/207 and see if that sounds similar to yours.

You have an EGR system fully working now, right? If so, get a piece of tube and never look back. Engine should run as it's supposed to. Otherwise, you might get hesitation, rough idle, CEL, noises, etc.. Also, nothing worse than remembering a couple days before your tags are due something needs "fixed" and now you have to plan accordingly.

^ Yeah, I wish they'd quit salting altogether unless the roads are actually starting ice over. Sometimes wonder if salted roads actually cause more accidents as dumber people tend to drive too fast on them and then are lulled into a sense of safety and lack of common sense. As soon as they hit a light dusting, they are the ones rolled over or in the median, etc.. If people were forced to drive in the actual snow, they'd be more careful, or at least they slow down usually.

If it's working, just have a solid steel tube welded up and replace the stainless. That way you won't have to worry about it in the future.

Your best bet is to have the one you plan to drive during the winter oil sprayed. Stuff is messy and drips, but it'll seal up pretty much anything. Some places will spray into the doors, etc. but dunno if it's worth it. Will have to avoid parking in your diveway for a bit. Usually older cars that have survived actual winter driving had it done at some point. Rubberized under coat doesn't work, so don't bother. It'll actually HIDE the rust as it's form won't give, meaning you can have a hole in the metal but the rubber is holding the shape of what used to be there. If you were doing a frame-off/rotisserie and wanted a winter vehicle out of it, then a spray on bedliner might be a good choice(in/out). Rinsing works, but you have to REALLY be on top of it, and you have to be VERY thorough. This means under the car, wheel wells, the rear cradle for the rear diff (extremely important as these rust badly) anywhere the brake/fuel lines are clumped together and snow/salt can pack, edges of each door; hood up, hit the under side metal (can avoid the deadener) edges, hit strut towers, hit the fender lips where it bolts down to the top, etc. etc.. If it were me, I'd consider buying a cheap Subaru beater with a bunch of miles that's already seen winters. Can get that one sprayed with oil, and never worry about anything while keeping the cherry cars, cherry ;)

My "rewording" was sarcasm. First link states: Potential Fuel Pump Damage"There is risk for the fuel pump to become damaged if a fuel pump becomes too clogged. AGCO Automotive explains that vehicles with a clogged fuel filter will generally lose power as they are driving up a hill. This happens because the engine needs more fuel to power the vehicle up an incline. The increased amount of fuel is not received by the engine because of the blockage, so the fuel pump works even harder to get the needed fuel to the engine. This extra work is what will damage the fuel pump." I literally pulled the first 4 links that appeared on a quick search. That same link lists 100k miles being typical for in-tank style filters, which you've exceeded by 400k miles. My other post in another thread, mentioned how my mom's first new car (84' Ford Escort) went 55k miles in 4 years (with 1984 factory oil no less) w/o EVER getting an oil change due to my step dad's ignorance on oil changes, and the engine was shot and needed replaced. So yes, you can "get away" with extremes. Glad you got your money's worth out of the car, but people shouldn't be foregoing routine maintenance or planning long trips with questionable fuel pumps, neglected maintenance, etc. w/o understanding the risks, the unexpected dead car in the middle of nowhere and higher costs to tow and fix, etc. @Ravenwoods, sorry for the thread jack.

I should have worded that better. You should replace the filter. stop. Your old pump is probably straining. stop. https://www.autorepairboulder.com/clogged-fuel-filter-how-to-know-its-time-for-a-new-filter/ https://www.doityourself.com/stry/symptoms-that-your-truck-may-have-a-dirty-fuel-filter https://wheelzine.com/signs-of-clogged-fuel-filter https://www.fixmyoldride.com/clogged-fuel-filter-symptoms.html Just because it stainless mesh, doesn't mean garbage won't cling to it or that it's working 100%. If you were saying your engine had 500k miles and you never changed the air filter, I'd rib you over that too People might come on and read that, then think "he went 500k miles w/o changing or replacing, so can I" then end up with a dead component at a 1/4 of the mileage because of variances.

I have no idea on the swap, but I almost got a '99 Forester and was gonna swap my '95 into it, and IIRC people stated it is pretty straight-forward with I think the exhaust manifolds being the only thing that was really different. Someone else will have to pipe up. There should be posts about doing the earlier ej22 swap into your Forester, but they might be drawn out with comments. What I do know, is the ej22 with egr (auto cars had the egr if I understand it correctly) is typically needed for some later cars and I think the earlier i.e. '95 manual trans cars were w/o the egr. If the donor engine has the exhaust manifolds, you can probably get your cats to hook up to them, one way or another.

^Semis rarely go above 2k rpms, have giant sumps and oil capacity can be 18-44~ quarts depending on the engine. But going 500k miles with contaminated oil on a $10k-$20k+ TURBOCHARGED engine (not including labor/shop charges) is beyond foolish. That's at least 4-5 years (@100k/per year) of god only knows climates. When I drove, 30k mile drains were common IIRC as that was cheaper than replacing the engine they were looking at getting 1 million miles out of before selling the trucks off. http://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/29117/oil-change-intervals Full synthetic in gas engines is definitely the way to go. You spend WAY more per year on gasoline fluctuations than you'll ever spend on oil (not even doing the math on that, pure guessing) but yet people want to go cheap on the oil to save $5-$10 a year or go really long w/o changing it? Why risk it? If the oil is getting black early and wreaks of gasoline, change as needed. Environment, driving styles, traffic you face, etc. can all shorten oil life. A funny story about "how long you can go w/o changing oil" I just remembered. In '84, my mom and step dad bought her first new car. An '84 Ford Escort (US) base model (no A/C, no FM stereo, 4 speed, vinyl everywhere, no power anything) and they put roughly 55k miles on it by 1988. While going through their divorce, it started burning oil, badly. I remember the vents (just blowing air or heat, no AC) would pump burning oil smells into the cabin (no idea how, just that smell was horrid). My mom had her dad get check it out. Turns out, my step dad, who wasn't a car guy and knew virtually nothing about cars, had never changed the oil- EVER. So 55k miles w/o an oil change, on conventional 80's garbage oil on a throw away ford engine It's doable....

Not sure how much you'd want to pay for a used ej22 non-interference engine with some mileage on it, but: http://car-part.com/cgi-bin/search.cgi?userSearch=int&userPID=1000&userLocation=USA&userIMS=&userInterchange=F%3E%3F%3F%3F&userSide=&userDate=1995&userDate2=1995&dbModel=70.6.1.1&userModel=Subaru%20Legacy&dbPart=300.1&userPart=Engine&sessionID=11000000022543877&userPreference=zip&userZip=99707&userLat=64.8366000&userLong=-147.6994000&userIntSelect=1042924&userUID=0&userBroker=&userPage=1&iKey= I used a 99707 zip code and looks like there are 2 in Wassilla for $600 from '95 Legacy. '96 has a handful of vin variations on the ej22, but same place in Wasilla (Knick Towing and Wrecking) has an early '96 (this engine appears with all the 2.2L vin codes in the search) with less mileage (164k) for $500 http://car-part.com/cgi-bin/search.cgi?userSearch=int&userPID=1000&userLocation=USA&userIMS=&userInterchange=F%3EF%3F%3F&userSide=&userDate=1996&userDate2=1996&dbModel=70.6.1.1&userModel=Subaru%20Legacy&dbPart=300.1&userPart=Engine&sessionID=11000000022544082&userPreference=zip&userZip=99707&userLat=64.8366000&userLong=-147.6994000&userIntSelect=1042925&userUID=0&userBroker=&userPage=1&iKey= They are close enough to you you could drive up there and snag one. That '96 engine is showing what appears to be a 3-'96 4eat build, so it's an earlier '96. FWIW, my ej22 has a 196k and still runs flawless. Only engine work was replacing all but I think 2 of the lifters from a '96 (mine was around 172k, donor was 164k~) with the same mileage as that $500 engine near you. They all needed cleaning, priming, and 5 years later, still doesn't tick nor collapse if sitting extended periods. All usual belt, plugs, full synthetic done, and runs like a champ.

Oh, no no. Not what I meant. The links can snap (plastic + old age = breakage) from normal dry pavement driving. You might not notice it until on the snow, which it'll manifest as hard to keep straight. Ohio gets decent snow, but local city is too on top of it with endless salt, so roads rarely have accumulation. Even so, a dusting of snow here can be slick. And if the end lick snaps/splits etc. you'll be fighting the steering wheel. Just a heads up. Ignore it if you like.

Clutches really depend on the driver and how experienced they were/are with operating it. GL with it though! Sounds like it should be a decent runner for her. Tell her if it ever fails to go in a straight line in the snow with good tires at 35-40mph, the end links for the front sway bar might have snapped (these use plastic dog bone ends). I ran into that the first winter with mine and thought it was just the car.

I only paid $750 for my '95 Lego L Wagon IIRC. It DID need the rear cradle replaced (cost $15 for near-new part used; no labor charge) and had some then-minor rust. 172k miles but had electric windows/locks, man. seats, 4EAT, ej22, front/rear disc, AC (still) works, and paint scratches as the owner was in her 80's and getting worse at driving. Has around 196k miles now, and nearly 5 years later, rust has been the only enemy. If $2800 is cheap in your area, and the car seems solid, and it feels like a good deal, go for it. The mileage being lower IS a selling point in your favor, as you can probably recoup a big chunk in several years when time comes to sell.

Yeah I paid $650 for a '99 Lincoln Continental that ran rough, from a guy that paid $450 at auction for it, a month prior, though it had a rebuilt title. Seller was 100% honest, other than he removed the 3rd cat and had a flex pipe installed. I bought it, got it running right, and put about another $500 into it. It has 86k miles and looks very nice (damage was very minor and cosmetic, looks like a low mileage survivor atm). For $2800, I could have bought several of what I have

FWIW, you could probably find one at auction yourself for under a $1k assuming no one REALLY wants it badly. Your call. If possible, google the vin. If no images/details appear (the auction listing SHOULD come up and depending on the place, it might list what it truly sold for if it's not listed on the title). If you see nothing whatsoever online for the vin (double-check the vin was copied and inputted correctly), consider trying a car fax, even if you only buy the 1-time use. It'll give an idea of where it's been, how often some maintenance was, any disclosed accidents, how many owners, etc.

Then he's just trying to flip the car then. It's possible it ended up at auction after a dealer trade-in. Many older cars, unless pristine, rare, etc. have no real place on say a new Ford dealership, etc. Some places might back-lot them until newer trade-ins come in. If they haven't sold by then, they'll ship to auction, where usually a used car lot might grab them if they need little physical work, etc.

You should replace the fuel filter. It's probably clogged beyond belief, and the pump is probably working overtime trying to keep fuel going to the engine. Every time you fill up, dust particles can enter the tank, not to mention whatever is in the gas, and all the rust/corrosion IN the tank already. Keeping a dirty fuel filter in place isn't something to brag about And yes, gas can cool the pump if level is high enough.

Yes, under back seat area. Back seat bottom can flip forward. While flipped up, look through other access hole and see if any lines are rusted. The fuel return line can leak as well. Also, not mentioned, but brake lines ROT on these cars as well. I've had several sections go bad in the rear, near/around the the cradle I mentioned above, and the lines can rot around the bend from the front brakes where it enters through the body hole to the engine compartment. i.e. follow where it goes from rubber line connector to hard line, and snakes up to the ABS pump if equipped. Good idea is to apply HARD, steady brake pedal when stopping (be very careful where/when you try this as you don't want to hit someone or end up in a ditch) from a slower speed (like 35) and come to a complete stop, almost mimicking a panic stop. I've had a line rupture from this after a plow truck backed out a driveway one winter, right in front of me. Brakes gave way, and I stopped (barely) 5-8' from his bed/rear axle. Other times, they gradually go on lighter braking. But the panic stop can let you know if imminent rupture is near. Ideally, an inspection should be done by mechanic regardless, but if a line gave way during testing, it's a bargaining point. EDIT: FWIRW, my '95 appeared to have the factory pump still, and it didn't go until late 170k mile range. They are easy to replace if you want to DIY. Can be proactive or reactive, your choice.

The engine might tick as '96 still had the hla lifters. It's extremely easy to remove them and hand clean + bleed or outright replace for little cost. If the valve covers leak oil, it's worth the extra hour of time to hand clean them. If the tick is really loud and never goes away, it might be fully collapsed and would need to be cleaned and primed anyways. Make sure everything works. Rear wiper (if it has one) shouldn't be too noisy (good ones are quiet). Heat and AC should work. Power locks should all lock (all 4 doors + hatch) when using the driver door lock. Key should unlock both doors and hatch (hatch key lock can seize). AWD should work. Tight turns shouldn't bind. CEL, ABS, etc. lights should appear with key on and go out when running. VERY important. Rear strut towers should NOT show rust, cracks, etc.(pull carpet back in hatch area and inspect the metal if possible, and look for rust in the spare tire well). This is an issue, and if like my '95, will eventually break free, and you'll end up with the top of the strut tower a couple inches from the rear 1/4 glass. It IS fixable with a welder though not recommended for a kid. The rear cradle that holds the rear differential in place MUST be inspected. They rot like an old soup can and will eventually break free from the body. Again, very easy to fix/replace the cradle, but must be inspected. If any of these things are faulty, mention it while doing the walk around. When it comes to price, these can be inferred as to needing fixed, and all of a sudden the "firm" price can usually be negotiated, especially if they don't know it's like that. Other things to look for is rusted out underside panels of the unibody, trans should shift correctly w/o crunching and clutch shouldn't slip, etc. Look through the rim holes and see that all 4 rotors are smooth and shiny. If you see grooves, rust & shine on clamping surface, etc. it means that brake assembly will need attention. If car has been sitting outdoors and not driven a awhile, you might see rust which *should* clear after a drive.

Glad you found it! Be sure to run the car a good 30 minutes or so at highway speeds or similar, to allow the O2, cats, etc. to get rid of any junk that might be in/on them from the weak spark (guessing it was running rich? to some degree) and IF it runs a little rough at first, it should hopefully clear up after the drive. Hopefully you don't get cat codes down the line, or raw exhaust fumes like a cat-less engine out the tail pipe when warm, which points to cat breakage.

Did it work? Would be a good thing for others to know Also, keep an eye on the "flexible stainless" line you installed. Natural gas lines typically aren't "hot".

Is the turbo making any different noises when it's trying to spool? Like before it was quiet, now it "howls"? Is the wastegate working correctly? Is the BOV stock and working correctly?

3. You'll have to look at a donor. You might get lucky, and be able to grab everything. Anything suspect (like rotted rubber) replace. Take pics with your phone + video of donor. EVAP stuff seems to get ignored in most yards, so you'll probably be OK. If there are any weird rubber jump-sizes (like say a weird 1/2" on one end and 1/4" on other) hopefully you can get a decent donor part. If not, get creative.

Yeah, good job getting it sorted. Sometimes the wonkiest, furthest thing is the culprit.

Before throwing online "parts" at it, find out if the cats are actually bad. A P0420 can mean a cat isn't working as it should, or in some cases, not at all because the substrate is broken. Just dealt with the same code on a '99 4.6L DOHC Ford engine with 2 up, 2 down O2. Code would only appear after light cruising at a steady speed. Reset code, it could go 50 miles before tripping again. I actually smelled raw exhaust though. An auto autopsy showed one of the cats for one side of the engine, the substrate broke free and was in chunks. Car had a PO apparently drive it too long with a misfire, which ruined it. Went with an aftermarket cat Y pipe and code went away. If you can smell "raw" exhaust (like a catless engine) AFTER the engine is fully warmed up, it's probably bad. If cat housing is getting red-hot while driving (like glowing red) it's probably bad. If you have a spare cat pipe, consider swapping and resetting. IF anything is actually wrong with the engine, like it's running too rich, too lean, misfires, is puking oil, etc. consider fixing that 1st. EVAP should most likely mimic whatever THAT car came with, as that's what it is expecting. If need be, resort to diagrams, online pics, etc. and try to get the evap system as close to stock (for the car) as possible. While this might be "illegal" and I've honestly never done it and don't suggest it; I ran into an OBDII connectivity issue before and is how I'm coming to the conclusion now; "IF" the check engine "light" appears at start up and "goes out" once running, and "IF" there is NO OBDII connectivity (in my case, one of the crimps was backing out, and I couldn't get scanner to connect, and emissions test had same problem; didn't figure out the OBDII connector until much later), AND your state is like mine, they'll go to the older method of a longer tailpipe test..... which might actually pass assuming everything is at least running correctly. FWIW, I've seen older Ford 302 (carb'd no less) V8 engines transplanted into bodies that had 2.3L engines from the factory, PASS the 2.3L's limits with modern, dual aftermarket & later factory 5.0L quad-cats (small cam, factory-style heads, etc.).