Bushwick

You'd be better off replacing the fuel filter, air filter, plugs, wires, and fresh oil. If it's still running the factory knock sensor, that seems to definitely fail and lots of us are replacing them within 30k miles of you. They either crack, or the wiring breaks contact internally at the 90 degree bend it has to make to face the factory connector. Coils can get weaker over time, but still provide enough spark to run. Your call there.

Rock Auto is listing these for just one HG: $18.28 (ITM 0941356); $18.35 (DNJ HG708); and $23.79 (FEL-PRO 9854PT and Victor Reinz 5905) First 4 head gasket options for my 95' EJ22; the Victor Reinz is a fairly high quality material gasket vs. a basic FEL-PRO as I bought that variant for my Saab. Shipping for just that is probably around $5 unless you expedite it so going cheapest is $18 + 5 = $23 to your door. None of the local parts stores near me seem to stock anything useful, and almost always need to ship from a warehouse which often takes a day, so you'll have 2 trips there (one for payment, one to pick up) which means a gallon of gas usage, tax, etc. to factor into the price, PLUS they typically only stock either their house brand items or just say a FEL-PRO gasket which will always be more expensive. HG "set" which includes head gaskets, valve cover gaskets & o-rings, intake to head gaskets, an some other misc. ones, etc. is $62 + $5 (roughly) for shipping. Advance has definitely gotten more competitive, but for harder to source stuff or parts you don't need today, it's always going to be cheaper with Rock Auto. Stuff like oil, air filter, etc. is typically worth going to the store for it. Also, while Auto Zone doesn't "advertise" it much, they do price-match other stores and take your word for the price. O'Reilly's is the most expensive. They even put a spin on their sales by saying "low" price knowing full well they aren't saying "lowest" price.

Yeah, the dipsticks are flaky. I've seen it not show anything before (resulting in a mechanic doing a courtesy inspection once yelling at me "the engine has no oil in it" when it actually was full and read correctly at home), to showing random heights, to the oddly placed hole on the outer edge of the stick end that constantly snags paper towels and even rags and could be introduced into the engine if not careful. Even more annoying is FRESH oil as it's virtually impossible to see the exact line for some reason. Best luck I've had is either after it's been sitting overnight or about 5-10 minutes after shutting it off and oil has about 100 miles on it (synthetic). I've gotten in the habit of checking frequently at the gas station if it's giving a stubborn reading. And yes, all readings had the car level.

When I just did mine, the readings were: Signal wire was around 4.8v with the sensor disconnected and key on. With sensor connected and grounded through the center bolt, that voltage dropped to around 2.3v with either key on or running. Sensor should be reading around 0.553 m ohms +/- resistance. So if you suspect your sensor is bad, check the resistance first with it unplugged. If you see an open circuit, it's bad. If it's still showing a value, try moving the wire around and see if it drops out or fluctuates. As Fairtax mentioned, the surface MUST be clean. I had to go back and remove it and took a chisel to knock down a rust lip that formed around the original sensor location, that the new one seemed to be touching. Also had some gunk mysteriously get between and that needed wiped off again. Don't forget to pull the battery NEG cable to rest the code. If you start the engine and the CEL immediately reappears, go back and check the surface again between the sensor and the block. Do NOT over-tighten.

Go and buy a $20 mechanical water temp gauge (they have the probe attached and come with brass adapters) from local parts store (I'd add an oil and vacuum gauge too to make sure everything is OK) and you'll know how hot is getting under a load. While you are at it, grab an indicator light and wire that into the circuit, and you'll know if the fan is actually kicking on or not w/o fussing about. To verify the gauge is accurate, stick the probe in hot water and heat it only within it's working range and use a turkey thermometer to monitor water temps and compare they are showing the same values.

+2 Rock Auto. Even with shipping included, they are most often cheaper than local auto stores. HG for these engines are very inexpensive.

Yeah, unlike semis which can automatically incorporate the Jake brake if it gets too fast, cars you really just need to watch it. As others pointed out, you can pull it out of OD and that'll add a minor amount of slowing. Then again, if we've become so lazy that we can't hit the brake anymore because it'd mean having to press resume, then we are doomed as a race at some point.

+1 ^ on tires. Try a touring tire that's rated for road comfort and a quiet ride. Higher performance tires trade-off softer sidewalls for firmer ones. Spring rates are definitely tighter on an 06' vs. a 91' which probably had really worn struts. Also, cars in the 90's and back (in general) had really soft spring rates. Look at a big boat car from the 70's dive nose first when you hit the brakes. They made for a very soft "floating" ride down the road, but sacrifice everything from braking to handling for it. If tires don't help, you can try going with aftermarket adjustable struts like $$$ Koni ones. A lot of guys run them with lowered cars so they are not jarring the driver over every bump. Should work for stock springs too. Set to a "soft" setting and take for a spin. If too soft, try a middle setting. If tires and adjustable struts don't do it, consider getting some variable-rate Eibach springs. A lot of older guys that either lower their car a little or are looking to refresh the handling on older imports (German, Swedish, etc.) go with Eibach. I'd actually call one of their sales reps and go from there if you do go the spring route.

It's a 95' ej22, so non-interference Belt was replaced when I got the car as they couldn't verify how old it was, so it has roughly 15k miles on it. Only leak is the annoying valve cover which had new gaskets installed. Probably should have added a sealant to both sides. I think it's bleeding pressure off while sitting similar to a leaky lifter. Can't get to it now due to some personal issues. Always easy on cold-engine cars, so hopefully it doesn't worsen too much in the next month or so.

Mine does the same thing after starting. Sometimes it'll make noise until the first stop. Once or twice the pump sound started and the brakes got all funky and it wouldn't go out.

How did you test the inner temp? You should still visually check periodically if it's glowing. It'll be more evident at night if it occurs. w/o the rear O2 detecting anything, you'll never know.

I think I put fresh oil on the rotor surfaces to avoid metal on metal and made sure there was some in a cavity. Can't remember if it was hand cranked a bit then bumped it with the starter or just bumped it (2 surgeries in 2 years tend to fog out the mind any more) a bit then cranked once pressure was there. Extended cranking should probably pull fuel pump fuse and disconnect the coil though I think I only did the coil. Maybe others will suggest a more "correct" method. Main thing I was worried about was was it being bone dry, but maybe these are hardier than they let on?

Any idea what causes it? Is it possibly leaking out and trying to pump back up? I'll try and get the cover off and take a look.

Radios typically have 2-3 12v signals. One is a constant 12v+ (memory settings), one is switched 12v+ (key on radio on). Then newer radios (like last 25 years roughly) have an illumination 12v+ that's tied into the dash illumination so it matches what the rest of the clusters are doing. You need to find that 12v+ illumination feeding the radio and figure out if it's actually supplying 12v+ to the wire or not with engine off. If you'd just bought the car, I'd say someone probably swapped wires by accident and wired a constant hot instead. But since you've had the car awhile, it's either the illumination 12v+ circuit or something is shorted in either the radio or the illumination circuit. What's odd though is your dash lights should be doing the same thing, but maybe Subaru wired it exclusively separate? A quick work around would be to cut the the illumination wire (leave some excess hanging so you have wire to work with) and electrical tape the factory-side wire up so it won't short on anything. From here, you can either "live" with the loss of the back light OR splice into a key-on 12v+ source and wire that to your illumination wire off the radio. You'll loose the ability to dim it if it has the ability to dim (unless you want to wire in a dimming circuit) but it'l at least light up when the car starts (key-on).

Car has had a noisy "slapping" sound come and go that's appearing a little more now. Only happens when cold, and lasts about 5-10 minutes. Pretty sure it's not a piston issue as it doesn't increase with frequency if you rev it. Had been thinking it was something clanking on the exhaust but started thinking tensioner. Anyone experience a noisy tensioner before? Oil pressure when cold is 75 to 80 psi at idle, so it's happening with cold oil at high psi. Engine runs fine otherwise.

Check the fuses. I remember my mom bought a 91' Geo Storm GSi new and at 35k miles the air bag light appeared. Checked the fuse and it some how had corroded the actual link. Replaced the fuse and it went out. Has there been anything heavy leaning on the doors, pillars, etc.? Did you accidentally disconnect a seat harness then try starting the car? Do you have kids? Do you let them or anyone else drive it?? Have you checked the bumpers for scrapes/gouges? It might have been hit in a parking lot or something. Given all the issues with airbags from "overseas" companies the past year or so, something might actually be faulty. Newer cars unfortunately often need a factory reset when that light comes on, and virtually NO local mechanics will touch an air bag issue due to liability, which means even if a fuse did go out and you replace it, or the issue somehow corrected itself, you will probably still have the light on. Take it to a dealership to be safe.

Anaerobic will NOT break off in clumps like silicone sealants inside the engine. If any gets squeezed out during assembly, excess won't harden and block oil passages or get into the pump rotor; it'll either mix with the oil or stay put and will still be soft regardless of age or time passed. It creates a VERY strong bond on surfaces that are nearly perfectly flat like machined pieces. In fact the bond can be too strong at times to the point you need to add heat to get it loose. Had that happen on a Saab oil pan that actually requires it. A rubber mallet and 30 minutes would not break it (loctite red, forget the number) loose, but propane and heating the pan evenly for 10 minutes and it popped right off. Where it can't be used is places with uneven surfaces or with large gaps as it'll never cure. I tore down my ej22's oil pump and oven cleaner'd all the varnish off (cover & rotor, etc.) then used some anaerobic sealant about 2 years ago now and think the car has logged around 15k+ miles. Been running a mechanical oil gauge via copper line run through a LONG section of vacuum hose to isolate and protect. Anyhow, pressure cold (low 50's ambient temp) is 75-80 psi idling then it'll taper to around 10-15 psi at idle with 10w 30 synthetic, which I think is OK. I'd definitely try and get some readings after reassembly to be safe, and do NOT start the engine with a dry oil pump rotor.

You can pull the relay and try removing the cover from the base. Usually 2 small flat head screw drivers or picks (careful not to puncture your hand should you slip) can carefully get under the fasteners and the cover will pop off. From there, inspect the contact point along with any actual solder connections if any. If you have a 12v source and know what's what, you can apply 12v and see if/how/why it might be sticking. Sometimes it's an easy fix.

Just put a reman in and be done with it. With winter coming, the last thing you'll want to be dealing with is a no-start starter at -5 degrees. For all you know, that "Amazon" kit was a Chinese knock-off made with junk parts, or the actual solenoid had something else wrong which you didn't fix, but having messed with it made it work just a tad longer. Also, be sure to rule out everything is TIGHT and aligned correctly, along with solid grounds. People often overlook the importance of ground cables until they are all corroded and physically in half.

I've used anti-foulers (stacked 2 of them, not one; one drilled out completely) on my Saab in the past and that kept the T5 system from popping a rear O2 code when the car was cat-less. IF your cat actually runs into an issue, the ECM will never know, so keep that in mind, and if you are running an incorrect cat it'll likely fail at some point, so get in the habit of pulling over and checking if the cat case is turning cherry red as that's extremely dangerous. The anti-fouler setup was designed more for cat-less cars with rear O2's vs. bypassing an unknown issue(s). I'd give the car a requisite amount of actual drive cycles and be wary if it actually stays off, as that'll indicate the cat was an issue. Not sure how Subaru does their 1st start ECM deal i.e. if the engine goes into a diagnostic type setting after hooking up the battery and 1st running, where it runs a battery of tests while it "learns", possibly staying in a closed-loop or something, then after X amount of actual start/running cycles, will release the codes it discovered. I know my Saab does this which can be annoying as it takes time to reappear.

Similar to a new OEM exhaust minus the rust and stress. As long as you aren't tossing cheap aluminized crimped piping on, the factory piping after welding will probably hold up for some time. Unless you are wanting to increase pipe diameter, it'd be way cheaper to ditch the muffler and resonator and have a lighter muffler welded up (with whatever tone your ears like).

Putting an all-new stainless exhaust from the header back would add more strength, but those are stupid expensive. Skid plates would help if they cover the exhaust. If the vehicle is bottoming out, you need a better suspension set up. Probably wouldn't hurt to learn the trails better and not push a stock car past it's ability too.

It'd probably be cheaper to just get another ej22 from a 95' Legacy or similar. Pull-A-Parts in Ohio sell complete 4 cyl engines for $150 roughly, and I think Georgia has similar yards. Given the engine in there now has a hole in the pan, and the actual engine's past is a complete unknown (it could be a 250k mile engine they mocked up just to sell the car), it might be a real mess in there. As far as the vacuum routing goes, I'd try and find another 95' year or very similar Legacy and either take a ton of close-up pictures, or do a video and use that for reference. It'll be easier than trying to piece the info together from schematics which assume everything is already there. Other option would be to pick up a rough bodied 95' Legacy, etc. that runs and use that for a donor + vacuum routing. That way anything missing or altered on yours can be corrected rather easily as you'll have a reference for what's supposed to be there. If you could find one for $500-700, you can sell off your current engine plus whatever is left in the donor and probably come close to breaking even, to having a slight profit.

They didn't put the FWD fuse option on manuals?

If it were me, I'd at least try and force the pipe back into the cat, then maybe hook some bungee strap hooks to the flange around the springs, pulling tension forward towards the cat but not touching the actual cat as the heat will melt/burn the rubber. Maybe secure opposite hooks to crossmember for trans or other solid anchor point w/o letting the rubber touch wires or lines or hooks being able to slip and rip those out. Wouldn't hurt to pinch the hooks slightly (with vice grips, channels locks, hammer it slightly, etc. they are soft metal) so they don't pop off from bumps or air turbulence, then get it fixed asap. I don't know how far the pipe can drop if that heat shield breaks. I do know those heat shields break fairly easily over time near the bolts w/o having to carry weight, so better safe than really sorry. A driveshaft dropping at the front is very dangerous and while the exhaust is weaker, don't wanna see what carnage it could do, especially if it somehow poked through the gas tank while scraping on pavement (sparks ). That's a worse case, but if something happened to a passenger or other car on the road, attorneys would rip you apart and this thread would haunt you.