Bushwick

Yeah, just reset battery so ECM goes back to a day 1 state. The misfire will be stored and it's always best reset after fixing a major issue. Had a feeling it was the clip. They can float around inside the boot, and if you force it while it's off center, it'll bend. The grease helps keep moisture out, makes for a solid electrical connection, and makes it easier to remove the boot in the future if need be. Glad it's running proper now. Might take a little while to run 100% again due to the misfire as raw gas probably got dumped into exhaust. Run it good for awhile.

Replace the wire. Sounds like you bent the internal clip or it's damaged, and it's not seating around the plug tip firmly or was crooked while you were trying to force it and bent, thus only touching tip of plug and falling off from engine movement, vibrations, etc. It should FIRMLY go around the plug tip, not just rest on it. Also, the wire that carries the electrical signal is basically folded under the crimping of the clip. If the wire is damaged, you won't get a signal. Take car back to where you bought the wires, take wire in and explain it's "defective" and ask for a replacement. They should open a new box and give you one. This time, while installing, add a tiny amount of boot grease. Then, make SURE it's centered while attaching. You should never have to "force' it on. If it's crooked in the boot, it'll bend easily and never seat correctly. With the grease, it should just slip on and "click'. After replacing, disconnect the (-) NEG battery terminal for roughly 30 seconds (seems to reset instantly but 30 seconds is a safer bet) then reconnect and make sure both battery terminals are tight less you want charging issues later on. Go drive car. Issue should be fixed. If it somehow pulls off again, look at how you routed thew wire.

Before you go swapping out the drivetrain, confirm what's wrong 1st so you don't make more work for yourself only to discover a brake issue was culprit. Suppose basic things I'd think to check are: 1. Tires all same size? 2. Is there fluid in the trans/diff? 3. If you are decelerating, does the sound go away with clutch pedal pressed in? 4. Are you saying the sound isn't there while accelerating? 5. Does the sound go away when you are pressing the brakes? Do the brakes pulse or grab? 6. Have you gotten under the car and visually inspected for broken suspension bits, broken engine mounts, areas rubbing, heat shield touching driveshaft, etc.? 7. If you force FWD, does the sound get louder, quieter, stay the same? Just things I'd try and rule out 1st. A video at LEAST 1 minute long of the sound (w/o talking, w/o radio blasting, w/o AC blasting, everything that makes sound turned OFF) would be really helpful. I say at LEAST a minute long as some people will record for 5 seconds with radio blaring and ask what's wrong...... Post a video here and might get a more definitive answer. If the sound changes while you are doing something, be sure to say what you are doing i.e. "I'm lifting off accelerator in 2nd gear and now sound starts" or "I'm braking and it's changing".

AWD is stock. What are you referring to?

Mine was completely rotted through in my 95' wagon and wasn't really driveable. It was factored into the price of the car which I had towed nearly 65 miles via flat bed. Was able to drive it 1/8 of a mile to get in the driveway from road where flat bed dropped it, but never went over 4 miles an hour. I got super lucky and found a 225k mile beater at local pull a part that appeared to have a brand new crossmember installed within the previous year before getting junked. It already had a few surface spots on it where the factory coating appeared cheap. Anyways, it only cost $16. It's a one man job too and can be done in a few hours. Need at least one jack and 2 jack stands. I suggest investing in a 1/2' breaker bar AND having a decent map gas or propane torch tip (about $50 at Lowe's). Not the cheap basic tips, but the ones that actually get the gases going. I have a Benzomatic TS4000 and run Mapp gas for really stubborn LARGE bolts (it gets SUPER HOT fast, so use carefully), or run Propane (propane takes 3-5 times longer to heat, but *works*) for to save $$. Go to Walmart and into the camping section. They sell short and stubby propane green cans meant for portable gas grills in bundled packages for something like $10. Works great under a car as they don't have a lot of length, so car doesn't need to be raised super high. Can even set tank upright and let it heat on it's own. Just make sure you don't smell gas and have NO leaks at the filler tube neck. About the hardest part was the 2 bolts at the back of the pumpkin were stubborn, and getting the bolts for the lower trailing arms back in was a little bit of a pain. Also, while you are back there, I strongly recommend draining the pumpkin oil and installing fresh fluid. Best bet is to crack filler bolt FIRST then drain. Some people can't get filler bolt loose. Heat works great there too if needed, though it'll stink and should drain prior. Although pumpkin oil lasts awhile, it's a safe proactive move considering you'll need to drop everything again to get at it. Plus, if the pumpkin has a slow leak, it might be low anyways, OR it can have water contamination which is bad. Riding through high water can let it enter through the vent up top. While under the car, probably worth draining the trans fluid too. You won't get all of it (unless you want to drain the converter) but it'll help prolong the car's life. Can always do the trans annually like that as it'll get most of it out. Other option is to drain, fill, run through gears, drain again (auto). Manual I think you just drain and fill. Use premium fluids in the trans as it'll help it engage and shift better. Manual will feel better too. Very easy to get all this done in a day (or 2 if taking time) for under a $100 total. Don't get raked over the crossmember price. Like stated already, I paid $16 and it was a 9.5 out of 10 and was in eastern Ohio. If you get one online like at car-part.com, I suggest looking south, west, etc. for best example. Though being a somewhat newer model, you might luck out and find a low mileage non winter car. Call the yard prior to confirming and ask for a visual description. If they give vague info, ask for cell phone pics

That's an opinion, but it's true it's not as much of a life/death scenario. Yes, my point is the increase from interference designs is so minute it's hardly worth the hassle. Turbo engines even less so as the engine's NA power level can be 90 hp then shoot up to 275-300hp with a small turbo. Keep the cat less restrictive with larger downpipe diameter and you'll never see the see the hp difference with minimal lag. As far as rubber belts stealing less hp and be quieter is true, but again not worth it. Talking about a 5hp difference which can be negated with a tuned intake and exhaust. Noise is hardly noticeable. Ford ran chains in the DOHC 4.6L which I've owned and that engine was quieter than the EJ22 I own now. My 4.6L made around 300hp+ at the crank, so it was making around 150hp per 4 cylinder bank = 2.3L or 65hp per liter vs 2.2L making 59 hp per liter. So the entire "belts are worth it over chains" is rubbish when talking a daily driver. Was still running the factory chain in the 4.6L at 125k miles when I sold it. They can last 200k miles though will be overly stretched by that point.

Who is saying people ignore them? It's a piece of mind thing to be honest. I still don't understand why interference are even offered w/o chains as most cars are still under warranty and MANY people don't even know their engine has a timing belt, let alone that are supposed to replace it. Has to really take a chunk out of profits. If the NA 2.2L makes 130hp with non interference, the hp bump is hardly worth it to go with interference, especially with turbo'd cars where they detune the NA engine then make up for it with the turbo. My mom gave me her old Geo Storm Si many years ago and it had a 1.6L DOHC non interference. I had it for about a month when the belt went out at 52k miles. Was completely clueless back then. Thankfully a $45 tow and $25 belt later and it was back on the road. Definitely nice NOT having interference if car has a rubber belt. But doubt people are "lazy" about it.

Tire wear is subjective and is rare for people to quote mileage. Seemed like he was saying he got 4 "new" tires with 70k miles on them.

I suggest buying some anti-seize and a tub of axle grease, along with primer and paint and runner gloves. Clean the replacement REALLY good and prep, prime, paint any bare metal poking through. Try and get the donor bolts too as they might be in better shape than yours. When ready to install replacement, crack open the tub of grease and while wearing the rubber gloves, smear the axle grease on the top, sides, crevices, underside, etc. Apply anti-seize to the entirety of every bolt you remove. This will go a LONG way to making sure future jobs go EASY and if you have to get future alignments, the mechanic will love you for it During the winter, snow pack with salt will pack up in these areas and in a few years you'll have the same issue IF you weren't proactive with protecting it. Other option would be to then annually have the car oil sprayed. While not an overly difficult job, it's no fun to go through every few years. Also, you'll need a rear end alignment after it's in.

You need an alignment. I just had my rear tires do the same, but to be fair the rear tires were junk yard pulls that had slight cupping to begin with. But car was getting inner/outers up front and the rear needed an alignment anyways. Was told they were really out, which makes sense as the rear crossmember had been replaced which messes everything up. $400 for used tires with 70k miles? You got RIPPED off. If looking for a set of NEW tires on the cheap, can get them at tirerack.com and shipped to your door for next to nothing. Most places locally honor tirerack i.e. they'll install their tires (some places are jerks as they want you to buy their tires, but they get $10-15 a tire to mount and balance so dunno what the deal is) or you can do what I did and get Walmart to install tires. Paid $43 each for OK tires, plus another $15 each for the mount and balance. So far, they've been OK, Ride is good and noise is minimal. But I got a warranty and new tires for nearly half what you paid.

With interference engines, don't wait for the interval. Be proactive and change the belts, pulleys, tensioner, etc. in one go a little before their due date. Just not worth the "worse" case scenario when it's so easily avoidable.

Wish I'd known more about this before using it. I thought the knobs on the manifold were more or less on/off to the gauges. Even the instructions on the case didn't mention anything about IF the knobs were turned to the "open" position while running. I'm assuming the liquid you are referring to is what ended up in the manifold's sight glass? It definitely got pulled back into the system. Are you saying that'll stay liquid indefinitely? Isn't there oils in the system too? Assuming the small amount that entered the sight glass doesn't pose a serious risk, it sounds like the system still might be a little under charged.

Yeah, sounds like you are choosing overly soft tire compound. Tirerack.com has a warehouse in Indianapolis and in many cases you can get a set of 4 through them and shipped to your door for LESS than just the tires locally. I did this with my Saab where I bought some 215 45 17 Japanese tires that had excellent dry and wet braking traction, excellent wear, noise, etc. for a fraction of what a comparable Good Year would have been, and the Good Year's didn't even score as high as these. Tirerack also lists all the pertinent info for the tires, and have a legend you can click on to explain what each part of the tire code breaks down to. In your case, you'll want all-season tires with excellent wear, and presumably excellent wet and dry traction along with excellent wet braking. Almost all their tires have user reviews, where people are brutally honest about the tires. Added bonus is most tires have a tirerack rating, think it's a 1-10 scale IIRC where they list wet, dry, snow traction, braking, wear, etc. At a glance, it's very helpful. And if you understand the coding for wear (which they explain), you can make a very informed decision about what to get. Just because you're buying an expensive brand name tire, it doesn't mean the cost spent will accurately reflect long life and superb wet braking for example. I spent a week comparing tires online based off their ratings and found many of the expensive Good Years weren't exactly "good" for example. Michelin for example tends to run thinner side walls and softer compound. While it makes for a better and quieter ride, they aren't as robust and can wear quicker. If you bought tires with a longer life expectancy and a harder compound, it'd save you in the long run as you wouldn't need to change tires so often or have them so worn that when one is destroyed, you either need 4 all new ones or one shaved to match. Also, for what it's worth, if you REALLY want to shave a tire, have it installed on a main drive rim (dunno what type of front/rear bias that runs, but let's assume front sees more bias) and raise all 3 corners off ground with jack stands while using an actual jack on the new tire corner. Probably best to do this in a public street away from other cars and people. And lower the jack to the point where the tire is just BARELY touching 100% even pavement. By barely, I mean BARELY. You don't want the tire getting grip, just a couple mm worth of tread touching. Give it throttle so it breaks traction and spins. Once it no longer makes contact, lower a touch more and repeat. Keep doing until correct tread depth. While dangerous if done incorrectly, it doesn't take much to burn them down. If that's out of your league, might want to try calling a racing shop that deals with installing slicks for drag cars. People that race 1/4 mile tracks might go through them to shave their street radials for better traction. Also, if you are on a budget, could always get a set of 4 no names from a Walmart.

+2 This is the route I go for exhaust repairs, and as Rooster so eloquently mentioned, do NOT go to major chain muffler places. You want to go to the hole in the wall muffler shop run by one or 2 guys. You'll know it's the right place when you ask them if they can "cut the bad section out and just run a straight a section of pipe". My guys charge around $40 for something like that, and I think $35 just to weld a broken section up. I used to go to a local guy that supposedly had enough and closed shop. He was cheaper, never had parts on hand, but I could go to him with 2 mufflers and say "Will you weld these up" and he'd do it no questions asked. Go to a Midas or other chain shop with same 2 mufflers in hand, and they'll say stupid comments like "Um, those aren't factory mufflers, you can only put factory mufflers in there" or say you have a 2 1/8" exhaust and want to jump size to a 2.25 single in dual outs and you'll get "Um, that's the wrong muffler! You can't put that on there, it won't fit!" To which a retort would be "You can just slip fit it and heat the end up, then weld it". Which will get "Um, I don't know. Let me ask my boss". Boss comes over and states "That's the wrong muffler, it won't work. I think we can get the factory replacement muffler by this afternoon, but I need to call my warehouse and check that we have one in stock". I've run into this more times than I care to mention. I found my 1st "go-to" guy after spending an afternoon hopping around to different shops getting the same generic blanket statements about apparently not being able to add aftermarket mufflers to my then 96' Lincoln Mark VIII which had mufflers in roughly same position as the Legacy where it's outlet basically terminates the exhaust at the bumper. After that guy called it quits, I found another shop about 15 miles further away, but they "do it" w/o BS or griping. Going to them, I can say "I have a leak after the cat, seems the flange is rotted. Can you just add a straight section?" Guy will look at me, then say "pull it into the bay". I pull it in, they raise the car, 10 seconds later him or the other guy are already cutting the section off. 10 minutes after that car is being lowered and guy is like "it's done. Looking at $45. I seriously love those guys and it's WELL worth the drive as they don'y bitch and moan about doing it or try and force stupid expensive OEM, though I suspect they probably have an abducted girl chained to a basement support beam at their shared house. Just that kinda vibe

Alright, Auto Zone DOES indeed rent a manifold gauge set. It's a $130 deposit. I had a hell of a time getting the gauges to even work. Despite being quality gauges, apparently if you over-tightened the brass hoses to the gauges, gauges wouldn't read anything. Once gauges were actually reading, they didn't seem to fluctuate much if at all. Dunno if that's normal for the high side or not? Anyways, with the gauge knobs turned all the way right, low was around 32 psi and high was around 175 psi. Blipping the throttle for a few seconds saw low side gradually dip, but high seemed static. I ended up adding one more smaller can which brought those values. Surprisingly, adding the can at intervals, the compressor stayed on. Had to keep unhooking the low gauge to connect my feeder gauge with can. Could probably add a little more, but will wait. Only difference with today vs. before was it was hotter out today, but not by much. Probably upper 70's. Had car idling for around an hour later on in the day and compressor stayed on fairly constant. While driving, seems fairly constant AC cold, but could tell a few times where it seemed to get a tad warmer then back to cold. Anyways, not sure what to make of it. Gauges really weren't that helpful. I noticed if the gauge knobs weren't all the right, especially the low side, like if the low side was turned a bit to the left (all the way left was supposedly off) the gauge would go crazy high. Turning it all the way left gauge would peg out at max, turning it a little bit, gauge would increment. High side didn't seem to matter. Was trying to follow the written directions on the carrying case, but they were vague. They just said to turn the knobs all the way clock-wise. I had the middle connector feeding back into itself in a loop. This seemed to allow the sight glass the gauge to fill up if I backed off both high and low knobs then went back all the right. Didn't see a way to connect a fresh can up to it, as wasn't sure if it'd leak out through the one end, hence I "U'd" it back into itself. Maybe this messed the readings up? Either way, once I backed the hose fittings off just a tad, both gauges were seemingly working. The low side was reading 30 psi before the small can was added, then 32 after. Anyone familiar with manifold gauges that can make heads or tails of this information? I was expecting straight-forward gauge readings that'd react instantly with r134 being added, but it didn't seem to be the case. Was also surprised the high-side reading was rather low.

If it's not belt related, it can be fuel pump, ignition coil, etc. I forget if it'll crank or not with the fusible link in engine compartment blown. I do however remember it won't start with it blown, but think it didn't crank. If belt snapped, it should sound different while cranking as the valves will all be shut. pull timing cover to see if belt let loose. If it's tight, follow the advice of spritzing starter fluid in to see if it'll fire or not. If it doesn't fire, it can be CPS or ignition coil. Both of those can work one minute, and be totally dead the next. Have seen more than one ignition coil fail AFTER the car was shut off i.e. car was running, shut off, sat overnight, then wouldn't start the next day. But that was usually with Fords.

I've had at least 2 cats do that over the years in Fords. Seemed to be connected to octane boosters and possibly adding too much for the gas present in tank i.e. the ratio was wrong and it got too hot or screwed the mixture up. I'm surprised being cat-less isn't throwing it's own codes. You need to cut the pipe before the muffler, and remove muffler. Set it on end, and knock the loose honeycomb out. As long as it's in the muffler, it can clog it and block flow. Hopefully it didn't get shot back and wedged into an opening. Go to AZ and buy a coupler that'll slip over both ends where you made the cut and 2 " U " bolts and tighten away. Sound like you might have oil pooling in the brake booster canister. If oil gets pulled up and into the hose, it'll settle in the bottom and can get introduced into the intake. Could also be bad valve seals, broken piston ring, etc. My 95' Legacy unfortunately has a metal 90 degree nipple on the booster canister, unlike say Ford that has a rubber grommet and a 90 degree check valve instead. The nipple makes looking into the canister a pain. If you have some speaker wire or similar, remove the big vacuum hose going to the booster. Clean the speaker wire (no dirt or grime on it) and carefully feed it through the 90 degree elbow, bending the wire as needed so it'll travel down to the bottom of the vacuum canister (bottom being front and closest to ground at 6 o'clock). Then quickly pull wire out and inspect for oil on the surface (like a dip stick would have). It's easy enough to check and rule out. Dunno if yours has a PCV valve or not. If those clog or get bad, they can pull oil into the intake eventually too. Should perform a compression test to see if rings are bad or not. Have you checked the sparked plugs lately? Are they new or very old? Are all black and wet? Or just 1 or a couple wet? Good news is even if the engine is shot, they are very cheap to source used and easy enough to replace. If the block is OK but heads aren't, they are super easy to swap out and very cheap to source as well. The misfire could be a bad O2, bad spark plug, bad plug wires, failing ignition coil, CPS, etc. You might have a clogged injector too. If the battery hasn't been disconnected in years, those codes might be old. I suggest disconnecting the neg - battery terminal, wait 30 seconds, reconnect, run car, and get new codes pulled. Those will at least be accurate. Also, sounds like a bunch of things are out of order. I suggest fixing everything related to engine and exhaust/emissions if you are serious about keeping the car running.

That's kinda pricey for Harbor Freight. Is it advertised as doing anything else? Does it come with the correct fitting for high side port? AC took forever to get cold today, and even then it was luke cold. If anymore charge goes in, it'll shut off. Gotta figure out where that high side pressure is at. Have a feeling it's the reason for the shutting off. Suppose a HF gauge will last longer than the car, and can be used for future stuff, so will grab one if a rental can't be found Any idea what the part number for the HF gauge is? Don't feel confident they'd know what it even was off hand.

As far as checking for voltage, it seemed to drop immediately while trying to see if voltage was still going to compressor or not when everything was kicking down. But a few times compressor engaged/disengaged very quickly when not probing, so it might be going out anyways, especially with all the random starting and stopping. I was reading elsewhere on a DIY clutch pull post, general consensus seemed to be to remove a spacer and reattach clutch assembly. Is that what you are referring to? Or in other words the way to fix it if that's the case? Where is the expansion valve? Does AZ or anyone else rent out a high pressure gauge? Didn't realize it's reading could lead to a diagnosis!

Good to hear it's running. Think battery connections were your dying issue? Plugs can probably straighten out themselves if just a little dry & sooty after the short drives you put it through. Don't be surprised if they aren't black anymore. If they are "wet" and black or oily after all this driving, that can be something else. The bad idle can be a vacuum leak. Take it up to Auto Zone or whatever, and get 6' of vacuum line (or thereabouts need to estimate on your own) and try and match up the smaller vacuum lines and replace one hose at a time. If anything is attached to a plastic nipple and doesn't easily come off, score the outer rubber carefully like you are whittling a stick to break the seal while exposing the nipple. Can use a drop of WD-40 to loosen hose by getting some to drip into the area your scored away, then gently twisting, and also add a drop to reconnect new hose so it slips over plastic easily w/o breaking. Conversely, vacuum lines can harden and expand over nipples, creating a loose connection and thus leaking but "appearing" OK. Other times they can harden (on bends especially) and even split like on the bottom of the hose, and be completely invisible to the eye. Or it can get soft in a small spot and dry rot, creating a hole or small leaks. Mine had several suspect hoses and idled better after taking care of all of them. It's so cheap to do, it doesn't hurt. Some lines are a little tricky to get at, like under the passenger intake runner are a few short lines. I unbolted the sensor they were attached to, then was able to pull away to remove and replace. Just do one hose at a time as some hoses go right by each other and are easy to mix up. Also, some hose are factory offset differently on each end by a couple mm. Why they didn't just make the plastic "T" connector different sizes on each end is baffling as it means you either need a factory replacement (good luck), or need to add a little WD-40 and stretch the donor a little bit. Only remember a couple ends being like this. Since it's not a show car and doesn't hurt performance, I opted to stretch the hose end a little bit to fit. GL.

If this was a newer car, I'd agree. But as it stands, it was originally purchased as a winter only vehicle, which was then rotated into daily driver status due to being an auto, easier to drive + get in/out, and 10x cheaper to keep on the road vs. my Saab which might as well be a Porsche given how much more expensive parts are for that (Injured back some time ago and had several surgeries which limit life in too many ways as of late). Just spent $550 for new tires + alignment + inner/outers which would have been a fraction of that if I'd been able to do everything except mount tires. Unless absolutely necessary like tires/alignment, trying to watch how much goes into it. As it stands, AC works. But the random on/off was annoying. AC worked fine the last 2 summers it's been driven after initially being charged after acquiring. Wasn't until it started blowing warm that it caught my attention, which started all of this. Had been using a line with a gauge that was purchased separately a few years back and been accurate with other cars and this one prior.

Pull the cover off the fuse box next to the battery under the hood and inspect the fusible link for breakage. You'll see fuses and large relays, then you'll see this upside down " U " shaped wire with 2 spades on each end. Mine cracked and corroded, and one day car just died and wouldn't start despite having driven and parked it at a store 15 minutes prior. Not entirely sure what all it handles as I think I still interior lights, but no starting circuit. Probably not your issue but worth checking none the less as it's a major wire needed. Mine was broken and arcing, creating an intermittent issue. Beyond that, is your alt belt tight? Do you have a volt meter? If alt is testing OK at idle, maybe find an old cig lighter adapter cable and wire voltmeter into that (or attach to a known 12v source) and drive car around block a few times, while observing voltage. Is your fuel pump making any noises? Is it louder than usual?

I only added a small can. Seems the more you add, the more it wants to shut off. Since originally posting the other day where it was randomly shutting off, only ambient temps changed and today it wouldn't even stay on. Started removing glove box and decided to try messing with fluid level instead leaving that sensor as last stop since not really looking forward to dropping the blower motor assembly. With AC OFF, pressure was around 55 psi assuming gauge is even accurate. When charging, it was in the high 20's. This is lower than before, where it was in the mid/upper 30's psi when charging and I think high 60's-low 70's when AC was off, but again compressor just wouldn't stay on. Sight glass had nothing on it, but when compressor shut off, it'd bubble then. Which I think it was overfilled. Now when running, it's white and right on sight glass, but it's more like a turbulent rapids appearance and not frost. But it's at least staying on for lengths of time. The low side line coming straight from firewall was cold, but not that cold. Wondering if that thermal sensor might of drifted as it's the only sensor left and is apparently overly sensitive. Before refilling, pulling compressor relay or disconnecting the single wire fans would come on and idle would kick up within 5 seconds but as soon as I reconnected the compressor it'd run maybe 5 seconds top before kicking everything off again. Beyond frustrating. There was a little more left in the can and every time I tried adding more it'd start kicking everything off. But when it was too low (after evacuating) it ran non stop. Seems like everything is pointing at that stupid thermal sensor. Should have a better idea once it warms up into the upper 70's hopefully.

Ended up having the line evacuated to a low psi. Basically evacuate until compressor remains on. Was blowing mildly warm air at this point. Then got a small can and slowly added until 1. cold was coming out vents 2. compressor was still staying on. Seems there's a very small window here before this thermal sensor goes nuts. Had to ignore the gauge and just fill enough until cold was blowing. Sight glass shows a bunch of fluid turbulence with occasional bubbles. Even at this, compressor occasionally cut out then couldn't make up it's mind if it wanted to come back on or not. Really low 60's out and air was cold but not as cold as it can be. Will have to wait until it gets hot out and see if it's enough to blow cold or not. At least for now it was staying on fairly consistently, but have a feeling that thermal sensor is too sensitive.

OK, cleaned the sight glass really good. When unit kicks on, don't really see anything. Fluid seems lower than glass. Then it kicks off, which a bunch of little bubbles surface to the glass briefly, but bubbles only appear after unit shuts off. It's cycling a LOT more with the ambient temp drop and can't even get it to stay running now.