Bushwick

I'd edit this post and remove the phone number from it else you want every spam service calling you as it'll stay in the archived post forever. Send him a PM with it

Mike, they just have a standard rectifier bridge in these, right? i.e. 4 diodes? Or do they use a specialized all-in-one rectifier? If just diodes, should be an easy fix. Still have the stock alt laying around somewhere, might be able to pilfer from that or try RS for just the diodes.

If it's no good, Heartless is good people and a regular here, you can trust her and stuff she's offering.

AC ripple huh? Thought that was only for capacitors. Only thing I could think of causing that is a diode failing or a broken solder. Or the windings breaking off where they are twisted together as there isn't much in there. The alt is a 130 amp out of an 11' Tribecca that had really low miles and been in a little over a year now. Hope it's not that as I'll need to mod up another unit to clear. Wonder if the AC setting on a multi-meter can catch it? Funny, I'd rather deal with a crank sensor failing as that should be original. Thanks for pointing the right direction.

I imagine a 4EAT can handle it as a daily driver so long as you aren't neutral dropping it at 5k. HEAT is the biggest killer of auto trans (new or old), as well as really old fluid. If it were me, I add a small trans cooler and watch the temps. Ideally, you want to know the temps with a EJxx engine first, then run the EZxx. If temps were say, 50 degrees F hotter w/o a cooler, add a trans cooler and see if they fall enough. Adding a small fan on the cooler (with a thermostat switch) would help too. Torque converters, when paired with more torque, will typically stall a few hundred rpms highers. Meaning if you mash on it in with a 1x0 hp EJxx, and it stalls at say 500 rpm (no idea where it actually stalls, but it's low), behind a EZxx it might stall at 600-700. It really depends on the EZxx power band. peak tq is 4400, so it's probably decent at off-idle. But with an AWD system that's basically over engineered. Basically it leave the line with a few more hp As long you aren't racing it on a track or abusing it, it should work. I've seen swaps in the late 90's Legacy and it fit right up. Would need to fit the manifolds/cats to the factory cat-back pipe, which at 1 7/8" is too small for a single 6 cylinder pipe. So, you'd need to do some work in Legacy, Impreza, Forester, etc. but it uses the same engine mount locations and physically bolts up. Grab the donor harness and as much as possible as get it wired to your cluster. Use donor's OBDII and important engine stuff to make for cleaner install.

If it were me, I'd replace the hose with a new one that's about 4" LONGER. Remove the old hose, and hit any rust or pitting with sand paper, a dremel with sand disc, or a mill file. I'd use a file here myself as the dremel can remove too much too quickly, the sand paper can get messy, but the file can knock the high spots down easily. If it's pitted, don't worry about it looking perfect. You just want the high spots knocked down so the new hose, which might be a little tight after getting past the 1st bend, doesn't get caught. Just work the new hose further over the metal pipe. Buy 2 new clamps and put one where the factory clamp is now, then put the 2nd clamp at the end of the hose so the pin hole can't leak past it. Conversely, you can cut the metal pipe with a hack saw and eliminate the 90 degree so it's just straight. Use a new hose for better sealing and wet the inside slightly (makes hose easier to work over the metal tube and push it over the pinhole section. Double clamp it about an 1" apart before and after the pinhole (that is important because the hose won't have a barb anymore, so it could blow off at some point as radiators get around 15-16 psi IIRC and the double clamps will prevent that if tight enough). If you do cut the pipe, take a small file and bevel the outer edge of the cut as well as the inner diameter of the metal tube. This will clean up and metal flashing, as well as prevent the tube end from cutting the hose. IF the pin hole is on a section of bare tube that's easy to get at, go to local parts store and buy 1' (pretty sure that's the minimum they will sell it and buy 2 clamps anyways. If it's a really minor pinhole, just cut 2" section off the new hose, razor blade a slit down on side, then slip it over the pinhole with slit facing opposite side. Clamp it with both clamps as close together as possible while have the screw on the opposite side of pinhole. Start car and bring to operating temps and see if it leaks. If the hole is larger or looks like it'll get larger, remove the old hose from the end, the new section you bought, cut 2-4" off one end, and slip that over the pipe until it completely covers the damaged section. Clamps at each end. Reconnect your heater hose. No matter what you end up doing, you'll probably need to bleed off the radiator a little bit as there will be air in your system from the pinhole, and even more if you have to pull that hose. If you notice the car's temp gauge climbing above the half way point all of a sudden (and you obviously are not leaking and have coolant in the reservoir) it means there is air in the line.

I've been forgetting to ask about this for awhile now. I noticed during deceleration when in "D" as the engine got around 1200 rpm, like when you are braking slightly, the tack would "jump" "down" or drop suddenly about 200-300 rpm and then rebound. It was occurring consistently. If I sped up, then slow down, and every time the tach needle acted like it was getting a very brief power cut then it'd rebound to where it was supposed to be. I could also "feel" the engine doing something I can't quite explain, sorta like when you have a worn engine mount on a transverse mount and the engine "lifts" slightly under load, then basically drops back. Sorta felt like a really mild version of that. Ideas? Never experienced anything like it before and it only occurred in that narrow window around 1200 rpms or so. If I wasn't feeling something in conjunction with the drop, I'd suspect the actual tach gauge. Could it be a trans issue? It runs fine and shifts/downshifts like I think it's supposed to (never had a new one of these so who knows) and the trans fluid was done when I got the car. Last time I checked it had the correct amount.

+2^ Listen to Fairtax. Also, you shouldn't top off any car for that matter.

If you want more power, get the EZ36 instead. They are apparently cheap and the junkyards consider them the same as a 3.0L. Dunno how much wire work is needed to get it running, but could be worth the effort for the extra power and having it bolt up and fit just like the 3.0L does. I'm considering this in my 95' Legacy at some point as it basically doubles the hp from the EJ22 130 hp to 260hp @6k with around 250 tq @4400 which is actually really good for a 6 cylinder.

^ Any are of the cables that are exposed, can/will corrode if no grease or other protectant is applied. I had an issue with an 84' Laser where the cables had corroded AT the battery clamps, right where it entered the lead area. Visually it "looked" OK, but it wasn't. I bought a set of universal battery post clamps and cut the factory wire back to clean copper, then inserted into new clamps. Car actually ran better and pulled stronger from what I remember, so they were pretty well shot to the point they were limiting current. That car was fuel injected and had an ecm. The 79' Mustang had a mechanical fuel pump and only electronics were the ignition coil, so once that started, it remained running. Anyways, maybe the topic starter will update and let us know he fixed it as this thread is a little old?

Yeah, just because ground cables "look" OK, doesn't mean they are. My guess is the clutch cable is moving and the outer casing is arcing when it's making direct contact on the sides, Otherwise it's grounding internally. This would suggest weak grounds to the body and/or engine or even at the battery. My old 79' Mustang with a 306 transplant from a 4cyl didn't have enough grounds, but it still started OK when I bought it off my step dad. Then it wouldn't crank. Noticed cables hardening. Replaced them, same thing. Replaced again, but added extra ground straps to the block and body and the car never had any more issues starting. Before adding ground straps and trying to figure out why it wouldn't start (20 years ago), I took a 4-way tire iron and grounded directly the body to the block, and had someone crank it. It immediately fired and the tire iron sparked. This let me know there either weren't enough grounds, or something was wrong with them. It takes 15 minutes and $15 roughly to add a redundant ground (never hurts anyways on older cars that see salted roads as their ground points deteriorate over time) and see if the arcing stops. If the clutch cable was hitting a 12v+ source, it'd either pop fuses or weld the cable up at the arc. IF it's the only solid ground left and a huge amount of current is being pulled from it (12v-) that can destroy the cable but shouldn't pop any fuses.

Hey Gary. Thanks for the tip. Had 2nd surgery earlier this year and disc is herniated AGAIN for a 3rd time. Doc says it'll need fused, so definitely can't do any engine swaps in the foreseeable future unfortunately. To be honest, the engine runs fairly nice as-is so I doubt I'd wanna tear into it (or have someone do the work/swap that is) unless forced to at this point. I've got a bunch of weight in the car and trying to merge with traffic doing 70+ takes stomping on it and holding the accelerator for what seems like forever. Was thinking the timing advance would be helpful for a little more pep, but it's a not a deal breaker at this point. BTW, be VERY careful if you venture up to the Akron P-A-P as the female manager there is making up her own prices despite what the website states. I e-mailed their headquarters and acted like a "potential" customer and asked about a price on something. Their answer matched the website. I told them what the manager was doing (charging for more stuff when it's actually part of the assembly list price) and was ignored. Made 2 more follow-up e-mails and was ignored AGAIN! So, be careful and double-check pricing before going into any of their locations in case this is a bait-switch deal.

Rear charcoal canister? I'm guessing that means it's near the firewall? Mine is beside the radiator, passenger side. Are either of those turbo'd? Skimming the files I haven't seen a lot of variation from 95' to 97'.

Do you know which year the MAP sensor changed connections? I'll try and look more closely at the circuit while skimming for pinouts to (B84). Although I don't remember seeing any vacuum lines left open to atmosphere when replaced recently. They either connected at the manifold or another port and terminated at sensors or valves.

^Thanks. I'm skimming the actual pins now to have label/color-coded references as they seem scattered throughout the 144 pages. Thankfully year by year changes are minimal i.e. page 32 on 95' Legacy is the same info for page 32 on a 97', with exception being where some wires are going on the actual ecm although the wires in the schematic are apparently the same. According to both .pdf files, (95' & 97') the actual plug connector for the ecm (B84) is physically identical between 95' and 99', even down to the same keyed slots. However, 95' thru 97' appears identical with the actual pins being used slightly different, whereas 99' has more added to the circuitry, so I'm focusing on 95' and 97' Legacy pinouts. I'll update with an abridged version in case someone wants it in the future.

And one more thing, I noticed the pins are numbered in some images. Is it safe to say pin #1 in a 95' would be the same as a pin #1 in a 97'? With just pin #1 being in a different location? Or would I have to look at each function and go off that? It'd obviously be way easier rerouting if the numbers represent the same pins/functions, just in different locations.

What evap differences? Doesn't the ECM monitor and regulate the evap system i.e. tell it to purge or store? Or is this feature controlled elsewhere? Not calling you out or nothing, just trying to understand before jumping into this project.

Aluxes, that P0402 might be because of your O2 sensor movement. Have you omitted the rear cat yet? The autos have an egr. My 95' HAS an egr. Here's a link on your code: http://repairpal.com/OBD-II-Code-P0402 And here's the egr: The actual valve is towards the back. The egr transducer is up top (round disc with several vacuum lines). I was looking at pics and apparently the EGR can get REALLY clogged. That can also pull that same code.

Thanks Bratman. I didn't realize the info was that readily available. Can anyone confirm if 97', 98', or 99' ej25d would be better than the other (even marginally)? I'm assuming they all have the rev limit bump as well? It'll be a little bit of work to try this so wanna go with the best option the first time. Also, has anyone ever tried to dyno a before/after? Obviously peak hp might be a few more due to the higher rev limit assuming the cams aren't running out of steam. Very curious on the timing advance increases. Thanks again!

OK, so the EGR isn't an issue. Assuming I can get the ecm pins to match my body-side harness, I can then try a more favorable year then. Do you happen to have or can you link a 95' ecm pinout and say a 98'-99' pinout? The Legacy Outback are extremely common around here in those years should this will be a fun project. Already run premium anyways and with 93 dropping to 2.39 a gallon, I won't mind

I already tried grounding that pin for the trans unit awhile back. At first, I thought it made a difference, but further experimenting yielded no difference with it grounded or not, and shift points seemed to remain the same. Would a heavier vehicle with a ej25 or an early ez have a better trans map? My 95' does have an EGR valve, transducer, and solenoid, so what exactly are you referring to with the EGR system as it's clearly sitting there right by the brake booster at the back of the driver-side intake manifold? EDIT: Maybe I have a late 95' with a 96' drivetrain?

What year is your Legacy? Can't tell if your Legacy is 96' or the ecm is a 96'?

New thread started here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/150941-95-legacy-mod-to-accept-97-99-ej25d-ecm/?do=findComment&comment=1265253

Well darn, I'm getting conflicting statements now.

**This is a carry-over from another thread and needed an actual dedicated thread to get answers. Was talking about ecm swaps from an ej25d into ej22 Legacy for a possible bump in the tune i.e. advanced timing and higher redline, etc.** I wouldn't repin the (ej25d) unit itself as I suspect the pins are soldered directly to the printed circuit board. If the pins were connected via ribbon wire, then it'd be possible to reassign the pins that way. Otherwise I'd try and make an adapter from the donor's harness and probably snag the pinout section from another 95' ecm and make an extension adapter that'd be straight up plug and play, but not interested in a cel being on constantly. I'm still confused though, my 95' ej22 has egr from what I can tell, so what's the issue exactly with the newer ecm's with mine other than the pinout being different? For $20 an ecm plus another $5 at most for the harness, I'd be willing to at least try if it's possible? Also, what controls the shift points? Would it be possible to swap in another unit that controls the trans from something that was intended to be "sporty" when marketed? Like say an SVX?