Bushwick

Before swapping in a new injector, I'd try swapping the injector with a different cylinder (i.e. disconnect, and place over a different cyl, then reconnect with that cyl.'s harness) reset the codes, then see if your misfire code (P0302) follows the injector into it's new cylinder (like a P0301) or stays stays as a (P0302 cyl. #2 misfire). A "wet" plug means it's getting gas but weak spark, or too much gas.

If you already bought it, why not stick it in and find out? Will it be identical? NO. Will it work? It should. I supplemented one from an Outback into my 95' "L", and even if it didn't match every contour to a "T", it'd still work. If it won't stay put, go to Walmart and buy some velcro strips in the sewing isle. The carpeting on your floor will grab the stiff looping, and it'll at at least stay put.

If there's a LOT of sludge underneath, I suggest going to Giant Eagle and buying GENERIC OVEN CLEANER for $2 a can. Buy 3 cans to be safe. With engine cool, spray ONLY the metal surfaces with the sludge built up. Lye is caustic, so keep off the skin, don't breath, and avoid eye contact. Let it set for 5 minutes (as it foams, it'll pull the grime away) then rinse off with garden hose water. Repeat as needed until bare metal is showing. If it's REALLY thick grime, spray the cleaner on, let it set a couple minutes, then use a brass wire brush (Harbor Freight sells them for like a $1 roughly) then spray off. Once all the old oil grime is gone, is should be easy to discern where the oil is leaking from (look for trickling down the trans case, look for fresh drips on clean cardboard, etc.). If you have to tackle the separator plate, the trans casing, etc. will at least be "clean" to touch and you won't be covered in an inch of grime.

Keep in mind the replacement trans might have the same issue, so at the very least get a warranty with the trans as most yards will at least warranty the item works or you can swap it out with another one. Also, goes without saying but find something with lower miles to be safe as hopefully the odds will be in your favor. Best bet, if possible, is find a running car (even lot running) and make sure it at least works. These trans aren't horrible, but nothing worse than a wasted weekend to find out it was all for naught.

I bought my 95' with the same issue. It got louder at the PO's home after letting idle for 30 minutes. I took a gamble anyways. Once home and able to get at them, I removed one side and 60% were collapsed (something like 80% total were stuck, most wouldn't prime up again regardless of cleaning). I cleaned them in FRESH synthetic oil, then tried priming. A couple pumped back up, but others were dead. Got lucky and found a 96'? with 25k less miles, pulled ALL of it's lifters, took them home, and methodically cleaned each one as all but 1 were technically collapsed. In the oil, I made sure each pump was discharging the black goo, and was replaced with fresh oil. When my oil source was dirty, I emptied and added more (used a cap from a 1qt bottle). Spent roughly 5 minutes on each lifter. After they were completely CLEAN internally and no black goo was coming out, I pumped and bled, then dropped it in fresh oil. Reinserted all the "new" lifters (I made SURE each lifter hole also had fresh oil so the lifters were covered) and fired it up, and it's been quiet ever since. I suggest replacing all of them in one go and properly cleaning them out (if used) and bleeding any bubbles off. I think what happens is both intake and exhaust lifters need to be in unison. I've seen countless other stories where people replace "only the intake" lifters then a day later there's an issue. EDIT: Oops, didn't even realize this was an old thread.

The entire evap system needs a going over. It's possible a vacuum leak or the charcoal canister is leaking around the same time you discovered the filler neck leak. I recently found a vacuum line with a hidden split so decided to replace all surrounding vacuum lines to be safe as they are original and most were rock hard on the bends. When I got to my charcoal canister, I popped off the 1-way check valve right near the opening to the canister and discovered it was seized in the "open" position. This means when fumes from the tank were forced into the canister, the valve is supposed to prevent the fumes from backing up in the line or evacuating the canister through the wrong port. It's failure will reduce the efficiency of the fumes being drawn across the charcoal and eventually burnt in the combustion cycle (assuming I'm understanding correctly as this isn't a study I memorize). I had no CEL, and no physical warnings i.e. no noxious gas odors other than a less than ideal idle. After replacing that valve and the vacuum lines, engine idles a little higher after just starting (in Neutral) then holds a more constant idle in gear. The charcoal canister is apart of the entire evap system, and it's easy enough to get at. Also, it's worth checking the line that runs from the tank to the engine area for breaks (dunno if Subaru uses a rubber vacuum line or what) but whatever it uses to draw excess fumes from the tank, inspect it. It it's disconnected, the fumes will never go where they are supposed to go. On gas caps, it's usually the rubber O-ring that fails first. Inspect it's not rotted. Also, I strongly suggest replacing the fuel filter for $15. Dirt in the tank or contaminants can make it to the filter, and clog over time. If heavily impacted, it'll starve the engine and overwork the fuel pump.

I take it all these EJ series have the same balance? Does he need to be concerned with the harmonic damper when doing a swap like this? FWIW, if the engine goes back together and you develop a "rumble" at idle that increase with engine speed, shut it off.

Sounds more like the engine isn't purging the fumes the way it should. A rotten filler neck would be constant and wreak of gas and is distinguishable from emissions fumes. His is happening after x-amount of time after a reset, which seems to point to the actual evap canister, it's valve, a broken hose, etc. i.e. something that gets activated after certain engine parameters are reached.

That's what originally went out on my Saab. Actually, I bought it like that and ignored for a good year or so as it didn't interfere with day to day driving initially and our e-check is ever other year. That failure of the rear O2, is what eventually turned into a short within the sensor- whether they were directly related to one another, I dunno. I just know the external casing on top of the sensor where the pig tail entered, was metal and it had a bunch of cracks and the chrome covering was flaking off. So moisture could get into the exposed epoxy and settle, and cause an open circuit. The heater element's purpose is to aid with better cold start emissions. With mine, the 1st 5 minutes or so caused issues randomly once moving (misfiring, stumbling) then became more predictable as it occurred more frequently. The muffler blowout (muffler was a year old BTW) made me take it more seriously as there had to be a decent amount of raw gas that made it past the turbo somehow to deform a muffler the way it did. I originally replaced the up O2 as both heater elements were pulling codes. It was during the backfire that only the up O2 had been replaced, so it left me with the rear O2. Replaced the rear/down O2, reset the battery, and the issues never came back. IIRC, the actual O2 sensor was still close to spec ohms, but the heater element wasn't. For what it's worth, the Saab is a 99' with OBDII and it never threw a code for the O2 shorting. It only threw a random misfire (P0300) if the engine actually misfired, Once or twice it threw a specific misfire (P0304), and both O2 sensors were throwing heater element codes. It's quite possible while wiggling the wiring that it might have caused an issue, or there is corrosion where the wire enters the crimping, and wiggling it is opening/closing the circuit. If water pools in the sensor and allows a short to ground, or to another wire right next to it, your stumbling will return. Since the heater element code is already getting thrown, replacing the sensor makes sense.

I'd drive the car a bit on the freeway, say 50 miles before thinking anything else is wrong. Run the car a little hard, put in "3" instead of "D" to force the rpms up a bit. Any time you have a poorly running engine, it can negatively effect sensors like your O2 sensor from improper running i.e. too rich. Had a CPS wire in a 92' SHO ground out from rubbing on pulley, under timing cover. Eventually had to take it to Ford to diagnose this was pre internet. Anyways, when I went to go get it, the Ford mechanic said to "drive it on the highway" for the same reasons I listed. TBH, I was skeptical, but being Ford I listened to him. Sure enough about 45 miles later the engine was running as it was supposed to, so that always stuck with me. Granted a coil isn't a CPS, but the end result is the same as both are needed for spark to occur. The rear O2, despite being there solely to monitor if the cat is doing it's job, CAN still impact the way an engine is running if it's shorting out. It may or may not throw a code. Don't dismiss it. Get an ohm meter from Radio Shack for $20 and set to "Ohms". Disconnect the sensor in question and touch the test probes to the prongs for the sensor. Get the Subaru values and compare yours against them. Works for any sensor from knock to TPS, to O2. If the sensor is beyond the acceptable specs, replace it.

Check the actual evap canister for damage/cracking and the hoses going to it. Confirm the plastic check valve in the hose feeding the canister still works (simple check valve like a PCV valve). Inspect your PCV hoses are indeed connected. Inspect all air hoses and vacuum lines are connected and not broken as well. Just because a vacuum line "looks OK" doesn't mean it is, especially in older cars as the rubber hardens in one spot, but will be soft everywhere else. Guess where it'll crack and not be visble? (I just found one on mine that was still attached, but it was split on the hardened "L" bend- a visual only never would have caught it) For $7, buy 6' of vacuum line and replace them as preventative maintenance while looking for the loose hose. I vent my valve cover to atmosphere in my Saab as I haven't welded a bung to a custom turbo intake tube yet, which causes the smell to enter the cabin. It's a rather unique odor that doesn't smell like a normal engine odor i.e. burnt oil, raw gas, coolant, trans fluid, etc. Sorta reminds me of what a smoky tar pit probably smells like. Worth checking out as you might actually have 2 issues at once. I'd go through and do all that, hard reset the battery cable to clear the codes, then drive 50 miles and see if the code trips up again. If you weren't getting the cabin odor, I'd suggest replacing the gas cap (you still can) as that's part of the evap system. When you fill the gas tank up and remove the gas cap, do you hear the "whoosh" sound? Also, when the gas filler nozzle is inserted, does it shut off constantly? Forcing you to pull the nozzle handle again to restart the gas pump? No "whoosh" and the pump constantly stopping are all symptoms of a faulty evap system. The gas cap needs to hold vacuum in the tank, but it could also be the evap canister, or both could be leaking. Simple stuff to sort out.

I don't know the size off-hand. If you have a local Auto Zone, take the TB with you, and go to their nut/bolt isle. They carry metric and standard in that size. You might need to open one of their nut holders, but you should be able to get the correct size. Should even be able to find a teflon lined nut that won't back off, or even a pinched nut that's meant to not back off as well.

It could still be the CPS. It's a vital sensor to getting the engine to start and it's needed to provide spark. If you have a volt/ohm meter, you can verify if yours is working or not. It should have certain values across it's pins (sensor side, unplugged). If the ohms are off, replace it. Get the no-spark issue sorted and do a hard rest with the neg battery terminal pulled. Once the engine starts and runs, see what codes are left. Also, the head gaskets on these engines are very to replace. rockauto.com sells them for next to nothing. It's not worth warping the head, having coolant in the oil, and toasting the engine to ignore as the alternative will require new heads, shaved heads, new engine, etc.

Not sure how elaborate these valves are as opposed to other cars, but it's designed to only allow flow in one direction. As long as it's working correctly, it can be reused. Also, you can get oil consumption with a brand new PCV. Turbo cars are more prone (in general). If oil makes it's way pass the valve cover baffling and get's into the hose, it can over time get sucked into the intake and down into the throttle body. Best bet if it's happening a lot is to install a catch can OR have a drain back device installed, though the catch can is better as you aren't risking contaminants getting drained back. Some engines have less than ideal PCV systems.

I'm glad this thread was revived. Noticed my oil was lower than normal yet no external leaks. PCV was the only thing that wasn't replaced when the car was purchased last year. Also getting erratic idle. Will have to check if it's clogged. FWIW, oven cleaner with lye will remove any and all oil deposits (even varnish off the metal which brake cleaners won't) including heavy sludge. Spray in, let it set for several minutes, then spray out with water. Dry immediately. Might need to do a second time if the oil is coked really bad and use a pipe cleaner to hasten the job. Best thing is the generic oven cleaners are $2 a can at Giant Eagle. As long as the cleaned valve permits flow in the one direction and not the other, it should still be usable. (Disclaimer: lye is VERY caustic to the skin and can cause burns. Should avoid breathing the vapors as well. It's excellent at cleaning cast iron and steel, but will dull polished aluminum.)

Assuming all fuses are good, I'll 2nd the crank position sensor. If they fail or short out, either the engine won't run, or it'll run roughly to intermittently. Worth checking the harness wire running to it. The fact the engine was overheating might just be coincidence.

Was there any year OBDI that could be pulled with a scanner? I didn't realize early 90's Subaru relied on the flashing CEL. Last car I had pre OBDII was a 92' SHO and I seem to remember that being code readable, so it didn't dawn on me these were different (hence I hadn't bothered with the link)

Sorry, I got this thread mixed up with another one I thought I was replying to where the guy had already pulled a P0304 with his own scanner and was dealing with more of misfire scenario. This sounds more like a fuel pump failing. Go to Auto Zone and ask them to pull the codes. I suggest insisting on them letting YOU attach the code scanner as they often insert the plug hastily at an angle, which can force the OBD connector prongs out. Just make sure the scanner plug is perfectly straight when being inserted and you are good. I've had 2 different cars that mysteriously ended up with a "no connection" after having been OK previously, and it was traced back to rushed AZ workers.

Right, if he's doing a diagnostic test, but he shouldn't need to do this every time the car starts. A bad connection, bad CPS, grounded O2, etc. can all affect the way an engine starts or not starts, or how it'll run. If he's pressing the pedal and the engine isn't flooded, it will add gas to cylinder during the initial pressing. Try this to rule out the injectors leaking, disconnect the fuel pump fuse and let the engine stall. Turn the key OFF. (can go a step further and bleed the gas out of the fuel line nozzle that looks like a tire valve stem to be 100% certain no gas pressure is left between the fuel injector and the regulator in the fuel rail; use a rag to prevent possible spraying). Leave the fuse out. Let engine sit overnight or however long it usually sits. Clear the code with a hard reset. Put the fuse back in, turn key to "ON" but don't start. wait a few seconds then turn "OFF". Do this 2 more times then crank w/o touching the gas pedal. It should start right away as it won't be "flooded" since the injectors had no gas in them. If it cranks like before (still don't press the gas pedal) then start looking at the sensors or wires that were touched before. Another way to test is connect a fuel pressure gauge and observe if the pressure in the line drops excessively, which could indicate the fuel is entering the cylinder while sitting. Another way to check if the engine is actually flooded is to pull the plugs and check if they are wet. A faulty O2, faulty CPS, etc. can all have intermittent issues that will make you run in circles thinking something else is wrong.

On fuel injected cars you shouldn't be touching the gas pedal during start up unless doing a diagnostic procedure. On engines with a carb it's a different story. IF it was a leaky injector, and gas was pooling in a cylinder (or 2), the engine would just crank a while before starting. IF you are pressing the pedal during cranking, you are introducing MORE gas into the cylinder before it's even fired. With all that said, if the engine is running rougher or having a harder time starting, it sounds like there's a bad wire/connection/short somewhere and one of the senors (O2, coil, etc.) that you recently messed with is the culprit.

This was a double post. How in the world do I delete this? Don't see a "delete thread" option anywhere?

OK, after a little more digging what the seat is doing is apparently NORMAL. "High" heat setting is apparently thermostatically controlled within the seat. Once turned "ON", it'll heat until it reaches a predetermined temperature, then shut "off" until the temp drops to the specified "turn on again" temp. This has apparently been the norm since at least 96'. I know our years have ducting UNDER the seat which I believe is kicked on when you run the floor heat setting to help throw heat to the back seat area, so if that's full blast or your vents are blowing full blast heat and the overall temp on the outside of the seat is ABOVE the "seat heat on" thermostat, it stands to reason it won't kick back on until the cabin temps lower a bit. Larger people that cover more surface area of the seat bottom might actually have the same effect as their body locks more heat into the seat, but that's purely speculation. I like to leave the windows rolled down a bit with the heated seats on, which seemed to get them running more on the high setting. Having the dash heat blowing 100% for 15-20 minutes, seemed to have the seats off more (on high setting). This might explain why the newer models have the complaint of the seats heating nicely on high, shutting off, then not coming back on for awhile as their actual dash heat + body heat is keeping the seat's internal thermostat just above the "heat back on" threshold. What I believed were the thermal overload junctions at the seat bottom back, are actually the thermostats. Here's a link I pulled elsewhere that explains Subaru's reasoning:

I'm not that sure how "smart" the older Legacy ecms were. I know some cars have to "relearn" certain things after a hard reset, which takes x amount of miles or several restarts, etc. to "learn" everything again. Resetting the codes with the scanner might be enough, but at least with a hard rest you know the ecm is at square one again, so if it did have certain things stored, they won't be around anymore, unless the fault is still present, which might take up to 50 miles to trip again. 260k miles on what's probably oem O2 or possibly a replacement is well pass it's expected life span. Keeping basic sensors fresh along with filters, fluids, plugs, & wires will keep the car at it's best MPG and hopefully most reliable. It also helps avoid the needle in the haystack scenarios (a giant magnet is useful there ) so when a funky situation does arise, it's often a brittle wire or rotted vacuum line, etc. GL and update if/when the issue straightens out as it'll help others should they run into the same problem.

IF there was a short in the O2 sensor, it could be where the wiring enters through the epoxy. At some point, the rubber coating gets stripped back to enter a crimp that's encased in the epoxy (or whatever the O2 has). If the epoxy gets brittle and the exposed wire isn't sealed from the elements, it'll corrode over time, or worse get wet. O2 wires are extremely sensitive and moisture on them can mess with the signal, let alone whatever corrosion does to the signal. I suspect if the coil doesn't fix it, a rear O2 might. Parts like these will wear out at some point, and often don't outright fail but gradually fail over time, increasing fuel consumption. Point being, it doesn't hurt having new ones. Mine runs OK, but at 180k?+ miles I'll be doing my O2 soon to avoid the issue altogether. Also, did you check the O2 sensor's values across the pins? I suggest wiggling the wiring harness where it enters the O2 to see if the values change at all. Would also be a good idea to check the values cold, and again after the exhaust has been brought to normal temps. Whatever you do, do NOT cut the O2 wires or strip the coating back for test probes as they are too sensitive to resistance changes. And one more thing, any time you disconnect a sensor or reconnect one, disconnect the battery neg cable to rest everything and clear any stored codes. I'm not sure how sensitive the Subaru stuff is, but if it's detecting a short (your misfire), and is already in a limp mode, disconnecting the MAF and then reconnecting a new one, then disconnecting the O2, might be making the ECM go bonkers. Resetting the neg cable will at least put every thing back to square one before you experiment.

Another thing that can cause a misfire is oil entering the spark plug boot. If the valve cover grommets are leaky, oil might be getting past them and pooling up in the plug boot, OR seeping down the threads (I believe it's possible for the plugs to back out if they were torqued down incorrectly or the head was the wrong temp at the time of the plug change). Both instances can cause misfiring, especially if the plug electrode gap is getting bridged with oil on occasion as it'll coat the electrode and the engine won't fire correctly. It'd be worth the effort to pull the plugs anyways and inspect for any type of fouling or incorrect colors. You did gap the NGK yourself, right? Plugs never come pre-gapped as they fit MANY other engines from different manufacturers. Though to be honest, given how similar your symptoms were to mine, I wouldn't be surprised if it was the rear O2. Did you try unhooking the rear O2 to see if the issue clears up? If it were shorting internally like my O2 did, unplugging it will prevent the short. It'll throw a code and go into whatever limp mode Subaru has and should at least rev and be drive-able. You can also try and read the resistance of the O2 sensor across it's pins, but it may still read within spec when cold. If it has a hard short to ground, it'll be obvious with a voltmeter. You'll need to find the values though for it as I'm clueless where they should be. If by some chance Subaru uses the exact same up and downstream O2 sensors, you can take the numbers from the newer upstream and compare against downstream. go to rockauto.com, look up your car/year, etc. Find O2 sensors under emissions, and see if up/down have the same part number.