Bushwick

Thanks Gary, I'll keep that in mind. I have pull-a-parts near me that are not only cheap for parts, but I think I could get a bulk of the seat-side wiring included in the seat price. If they only need 20 amp fuse for the pair, then 10 amp for a single seat is pretty low demand and easy to run something to it. I was figuring 15 amp per seat, but 10 amp is even better as aftermarket radios pull that much. That's a big help. can't always rely on a junked car's fuse being there for reference. I haven't seen any wiring plugs under either seat, and being a factory manual seat they might have left most of the stuff needed out of the car i.e. a power seat car might have the plug section already included for the seat heaters. Was thinking of reusing the manual seat track with only the heated element wiring left in, which would be a lot simpler to mess around with. As I'm assuming most heated seats were electric? Any heated seats out there in a manual seat track?

Sorry, I was super tired when posting and missed it

Excellent replies everyone! The handful of times I peered into a cabin, the seats were already snagged, or were leather + heat. Only thing against leather is if it wasn't treated from day one and maintained, they dry out and wear too quickly, and in the summer you can't breath through them. Granted the stock cloth seats in the "L" sit really low and aren't exactly plush, they are super light. I'm guessing the burnt fabric in retrofit was due to forgetting some safety fabric or a pinched element. Will definitely keep an eye peeled on the fabric seats now that I know it was an option in them. N/E Ohio might not have a huge influx of the heated variety though in the 90's as heated seats were still somewhat rare then. Any idea what amperage they draw? i.e. what fuse is running for a seat? Are they split into separate fuses per seat? Or do they share the same fuse?

My other car has heated seats, and it was the first car I've owned to have them, and absolutely LOVE having them as they are warm before the heater warms the car. But since the Legacy took over as the winter car, that feature was lost. Would really like to add some from an Outback or something, but I'm not a fan of leather. Was wondering if there are any cloth covered, heated seats installed in any Subaru? If so, what model/years? What's an exact fit with the 95' Legacy? Suppose I could always try and harvest the heater elements from a leather Outback or something worse case scenario, and pull the fabric up on the super basic manual seat in the car now, then fit the fabric back over. Pirate a heated seat switch and the relay from the Outback, then wire it up to a stand alone fuse. Any help would be appreciated and only looking to do the driver seat.

Check your tire air pressure. I've noticed if mine get a little low from another, the rear differential makes a little whine. Next, I'd check the fluid in the rear diff and the front. Your tires are the same size, right? Are they wearing evenly?

Would be helpful if we knew what car you were talking about already having.

I was wondering about my seats and why they can go forward 5" away from the dash, but run out of leg room for anyone 5' 7" or taller. It's like they got the jig wrong when setting up the track slider to tack to the seat. That's for bringing that up as it's apparently normal. Winter drifting in 6" to 8" of snow at 4am on un-plowed, quiet streets was a BLAST last winter. Would wait for the snow to drop, then find some roads to drift on the turns.

Was at the gas station earlier and thinking about this. Have to say the mechanical simplicity of the older (mid 90's) Legacy. The fact that despite being a Japanese automobile, parts are EXTREMELY inexpensive ordering online at say RockAuto, making these the modern equivalent of the Chevys and Chevy 350 stuff in the 80's. The fact most everything is modular allowing for WRX, Tribecca, etc. stuff to be swapped in everyday Legacy Wagon. And of course the symmetrical AWD and non transverse mounted engine, allowing for no torque steer. And the non interference 95' EJ22. When a belt goes in a non interference engine, you'll be glad it wasn't an interference engine Only real gripe is MPG isn't the greatest. My Saab has a manual, makes roughly 200hp more than the 130 hp Legacy EJ22 via tune and bigger turbo, and still easily gets 5-10 MPG more and I lead foot it, whereas the Legacy is driven like a normal car. Only things not changed in the Legacy are O2 sensors and the cats are original, so maybe that's why?

Yeah, those cars were pretty light. My mom and step dad both had Hondas from then. Unfortunately, they used thin steel and they rusted into nothing rather quickly. My mom's 79' had already rusted through the frame (or were they unibody?) by 83' and had a crack they didn't think was "fixable" so they traded it in. My step dad's was a 76' wagon bronze with tan interior. Haven't thought about those in decades.

Could be something else in the trans. I honestly don't know enough about bad trans noises, especially with Subaru. Most places do free inspections, so hopefully a local shop will be more helpful. The good side to this is these cars are so common and the trans usually last awhile, finding a good condition used unit should be fairly easy.

Yeah, I think the video where they did the dyno runs they were around 390 at the wheels, so figure 430-450 hp at the crank which is enough to be in the 11's at that weight. Considering it's AWD and has the torque + HP early in the revs, and has what can be explained as a nice toque curve, it should be solid in the 11's since traction won't be an issue. If the Haltech stuff wasn't so expensive and complex, along with the price of the Tribecca engine, I'd love to do this with mine.

Part 9 1st Run They are still getting ready to run it at a local 1/4 mile strip, so stay tuned for that.

Part 7 Part 8

Part 5 Part 6

Part 3 Part 4

I follow these guys on youtube and they just did a full on swap from a Tribecca with the NA engine, and stuck a GTX2876 on it in hopes of running 11's in a mid/late 90's Legacy Wagon. I got a real kick out of the fact they went with the Wagon as opposed to a WRX build, and figured many here would enjoy this as well. It's extremely informative and covers plenty of mods and tech talk, so figured it was worth sharing here. It's broken up into a series as they filmed a bit at a time. The "1st Drive" video is on their sister account, so be sure to subscribe to both if you like it. They also have a ton of other videos. Part 1 Part 2

It sounds like an internal issue with the trans, like a busted band or something. I honestly haven't ever heard this noise before. Did you refill the trans with CORRECT fluid? Improper fluid would kill the trans. Does the fluid stink really bad? What color is it? If you know how, you can drain the fluid into a container, and inspect for broken bits or metal shavings, but that sort of noise at idle doesn't sound like it'll go away w/o repairs. As far as the turning noise, that's usually a CV shaft failing. Did you put new ones in? Or did you go with used? With vehicle securely parked, turn wheel hard right, then inspect the rubber boot directly behind the rotor for rips, grease seepage, or even a busted clamp which would allow the boot to loosen, and grease to weep out over time. My Legacy had a boot that did this and it appeared to be in place. Only other things that can make noise is the strut assembly, inner tie rod, a loose bolt, etc. I'd find a reputable shop like Good Year, and go in there being vague, and ask for a vehicle inspection. If they press you for specifics, say there's an odd noise on hard turns and weird noise at idle, and them do there job. Get a quote from them outlining what's wrong plus the cost, then come back here and share, and people will be able to assist further if it's something you can fix easily or not on your own. Careful though, as just because they say it's bad or failing, doesn't mean it necessarily is. Case in point my boot's band snapped, and a shop caught it while doing the tires. The guy was vague and assumed I wasn't knowledgeable, and almost inferred the entire CV axle would need replaced. I packed it with some more fresh grease, and bought a special stainless steel narrow band for a few dollars and it's been OK since. Others, would probably have just said "fix it" and next thing you know there's a $100 repair.

A 97' Outback with a stepped/raised roof, does have the exact same hatch. Wire connectors are also the same both in the vehicle behind the passenger side tail lamp, and along the actual hatch. To reuse the wiring, I suggest disconnecting the 3 plug connectors behind the passenger tail lamp, and snaking it out through the pillar. Driver side only has the washer fluid hose. It is possible to remove the rear panel on the hatch, disconnect all the plugs,then try and feed the wiring out that way, but it's more labored and the fit is tighter getting all the plugs through the holes. Snaking the 3 plugs back through the pillar was straight-forward, though they might get hung up on one of the plastic clip holders. Only issue was the dome light wires. For whatever reason, they force you to unplug the dome light, then try and snake the wiring out. Was easier to just snip the wire and resolder them.

Thanks. I suspect it's the same as the 2 grooves ''''''\________/'''''' on the top outer edges are the same height on the L and Outback, suggesting the actual roof is the same height by the time it mates up with the hatch. I couldn't get a good spot to measure off of given it's all angular, and just wanted to be 100% before committing. I think the 99' and up, ARE actually different though between the high/low roof cars as I saw one with the high roof and the hatch seemed to sit higher.

-I have a 95' Legacy L wagon with a low roofline. I was at a local yard and came across a 97' Outback wagon. Even though it has the raised roof up front, the actual hatch appears identical and it seems the roof was sloped down enough that they are interchangeable? Is this correct? -Also, to remove a hatch, where is the wiring plug located at so as to avoid cutting the donor's wiring? -I take it one side (there are the 2 rubber boots that protect the wiring, on opposing sides with hatch raised) is wiring, and the other side is for the windshield washer hose?

As long as they aren't stripped or completely ugly no. I've yet to ever have lugs loosen that were torqued correctly the first time, and this covers everything from multiple Fords (4 and 5 lugs-Mustang Foxes, Cougar, F150, SHO; aluminum to steel), Chrysler Laser 4 lug (aluminum rims), VW steel rims, Subaru steel, Saab aluminum, Geo Storm GSi aluminum, and several more I'm forgetting. If lugs are loosening, they either weren't torqued enough to begin with, or the rotor mounting surface was uneven, causing the wheel to not sit correctly. ONLY time I ever had a wheel come off from lugs that backed off while moving, I was towing an 83' F150 with 5 lug steel rims. The rear drum brakes were seized, and the wheels needed pulled to break the rust seal from the shoes. Wheels were put back on, but only torqued to maybe 50 ft/lbs by the previous owner. I was so beat that day from getting this non running truck to move and get on a dolly, I completely forgot to double check. About 60 miles later while on the highway, wheel apparently came off. Lug threads were surprisingly OK and not even gouged. Wheel was completely lost. Thankfully a spare came with the truck and had air. Grabbed 1 lug each from each remaining wheel plus and extra from a front, mounted the spare and off I went. I suggest buying a 1/2" breaker bar from local auto store for $30 or whatever, and buying a good quality socket that matches your lugs. KEEP it with the car as it can fit easily in most wheel wells. I'll snug all the lugs while car is raised, lower it, then crank down by hand in 5 star pattern. Once hand tight, I'll position the wrench to be stood on and crank it down 1/4 turns while still alternating in a star pattern until all 4-5 lugs are tight. I've yet to have loose lugs after rechecking. Even after a year or so they'll remain tight. If you have extra cash, buy a larger torque wrench to make sure you are tightening enough. Last resort would be to use a thread locker, but I prefer a tiny smudge of anti-seize and torque wrench. Aluminum by design always needs rechecked, but I've yet to ever have aluminum that was properly torqued come loose, even with anti-seize.

In earlier 90's 4EAT cars, some came with a power mode that was manually switched on. It would in effect either run more line pressure or more aggressive shift points, etc. Other cars had these but most never took off or were discontinued. Ford had them briefly in the Probe. In the Crown Vic (or AOD trans) you could pull the pan, adjust a screw, and it'd let you smoke the tires with ease- something old guys barely looking over the steering wheel wouldn't want, but people looking for a little pep, it's there. I'm assuming this should be similar, but I'll have to wait for response (hopefully somebody who has the real switch option) to see exactly what changes, else I'll run and get a crimp connector from a bone yard model and try again in case the wire backed out.

Hmm, that's different than what I 'm doing. I did the ground pin 4 from the TCU(?) or whatever it's called. To be honest, I can't really notice a difference between on or off. At first, it seemed as though throttle response was tad better but I hadn't driven the car in a few days so no initial back to back. After switching off/on a bunch of times, I don't really notice different shift points or anything else. The wire is definitely grounded as I've double-checked with an ohm/voltmeter, and I ran bare wire through the plug #4 hole then reconnected the plug so it should still be touching the connector. I've also double-checked the switch and it's working correctly too. Does the "power" mode only work when manually shifting the auto? Or will it work in "D"? Somebody else that's done this, can you tell me exactly what changed? Shift points, holding a gear, etc.? 1, 2, 3, all work, so it's not locking anything out.

Nevermind, I found what I was looking for.