Bushwick

I'm still betting it's something rattling and vibrating intensely at certain engine or road speeds. I know on mine I ended up having several of the heat shields that were physically tight, banging on the pipe made no noise, and were not detectable otherwise by 2 different mechanics as well as myself when it was up on a lift. Wasn't until a fluke where it finally rattled while parked that I caught the one, and the other didn't make noise until the passenger rear door was shut hard. Even the weird zinging sound was actually a shield though it sounded NOTHING like a shield (guessing either wind under car caused turbulence, which caused to the shield to vibrate quickly while barely touching the pipe, or the engine/drivetrain is transmitting a certain vibration frequency or something that's caused it ). Even after worm clamping the one, it still made some noise and needs a 2nd clamp. PITA. Just remember, wherever you take it, tell them something like "A heat shield is rattling at speed and you have no idea which one it is". If it's actually the trans or something else, let them figure it out. Would hate to see you go in saying "you think the trans is bad" when it's just a shield and they decide to replace a 40k mile trans that isn't bad and you get stuck paying a couple grand for an unneeded repair. I also wouldn't mention the the stuff you just replaced either. Some mechanics, if they think you are clueless, can and will make stuff up thinking you don't know any better. Largely dependent on how aggressive their sales quota or greed is.

Maybe it's not such a big deal on lighter, earlier gen bodies or non-Legacy? 1990 Legacy was 2640-2800 pounds, which is roughly 200-360+ pounds lighter than my wagon. The heavier the car, the larger sway bars need to be control movement.

Well, I'm guessing it'll increase line pressure while raising the rpm shift point which can be nice at times as it transmits power more efficiently. Especially when you don't have the extra hp from a turbo'd set up or maybe a six cylinder for hills or passing a 400hp minivan I know the old AODE Fords had a screw under the pan cover that would let you increase line pressure, which would wake the tires up Any idea where this pin to ground is? Where is the TCU? Also, if possible I'd like to repurpose a dash switch to use on the left side of the column cluster. My right side has rear defrost and cruise button. Left side has 2 dummy covers that'd be a perfect spot for this "power" mode switch as well as a FWD switch for the FWD fuse slot. If at all possible, I'd like to try and keep the switch's appearance "correct". The years where power mode option was used, any idea what the front of the switch looked like, or was that on the shifter stalk? Since the FWD has a dash light, not worried there as it's easy to cover up a defrost switch and use that. But w/o an indicator light for power mode, it'd be nice to use a correct switch with an insignia, even if it has to be pirated from another car and glued in place of say the insignia for a cruise control sticker. Any ideas for donors?

I never used to care either to be honest, until I lowered my other car and built a custom rear bar, along with fabbing up a rear strut tower brace. The brace alone was worth the effort and changed turning characteristics even at slow speeds. Just feels tighter with less body movement, and overall increases the fun factor. First time driving the Legacy after coming out of the other car with mods, it was blatantly clear where it was lacking. My biggest gripe was the rear would hold OK at really slow speeds but anything over 25-30 on minor curves the rear bar was completely overpowered (still running a 14" rim with skinny factory tires that weren't squealing yet either) and would "wag" back and forth going from "controlled" to "wagging" which made the car feel unsafe like the rear was going to kick out from the subframe. At higher speeds it can get dangerous though if you have to make a sudden lane change as the momentum from the delay of the rear can make it feel like it's loosing control (which it might). If the trailing arms had solid bushings. the rear pumpkin cover solid bushings, and the rear subframe had solid bushings, you could probably get away w/o running a stabilizer bar and still have decent handling, but all that road noise absorbing rubber flexes. I ran solid bushing control arms in one of my early Mustangs with an 8.8 swap and 4.10's w/o the factory bar and it actually handled really good and was a mid 12's car. But with the factory rubber in the arms that wasn't possible.

A power mode would be nice. Haven't seen that in a car for some time. I take it the "Power Mode" on/off could be manipulated with a simple rocker switch? Or do you think you need to create jumpers, etc. internally plus a switch?

I think you use the actual metal bracket from the Forester with the WRX STi sway bar AND it's rubber bushing as it'll be a 20mm hole. Think it was Fairtax that mentioned this to me in one of my posts. Far as I know, it only applies to the rear sway bar. On wagons especially, it should significantly improve handling and complement the front better. I know Auto Zone has some heavy duty sway bar bushing brackets with red urethane inserts in their performance isle that might possibly work with or w/o mods. Next time I'm there I'll double check what they actually have and see if it'd be applicable.

I haven't tried downshifting into 1st or 2nd while moving (if car was turbo'd then that'd be a different story), couple times I've forced 3, but what's the difference between what you are saying and dropping the lever into 2nd? Wouldn't it start in 2nd and hold 2nd til redline?

I'm going off the dash gauge. It's been idling (when fully warm) a tick above the 500 rpm half-way mark when in drive, so figuring 550, maybe 575. It has yet to stall, and technically it's probably getting better fuel mileage at idle, but I'd like the oil pressure to be higher when it's idling w/o accessories on. It consistently kicks up w/o issues though when the alt is placing the higher demand. No idea WHY selecting front defrost vent with heater on puts a higher demand on the alternator though (selecting front defrost vent and low foot area vent doesn't for example), but with it on the rpms are 650-700 actually and that oil pressure makes me feel more confident. Where is the IACV? Is it on the throttle body, or in between a hose? When you say clocking it, does it have a set screw you loosen, then clock until rpm is desired, then tighten? Clockwise or counterclockwise? SO glad I bought this car. Was idling the Saab earlier today since it's been sitting and about 5 minutes in it started knocking real loud under the timing cover, which I think means one of the timing guides busted and they are royally a PITFA to get at with the engine in the car Thankfully have a full timing kit (about $900 worth of parts as you have to do the balance chain and guides too- no $100 Subie kit here unfortunately) for it already. SO wish it was as easy of a job as the ej22 was. Could do an ej22 belt weekly and not dread it. But doing a T5 2.0L transversely mounted once every 170+ miles is not something to look forward too.

While in gear and fully warmed up (4EAT), it's idling around 550. Oil pressure at this speed is around 5 psi. If the alt gets a demand, like say heater on and set to defrost only, idle kicks up to around 650 and oil pressure is around 10-12 psi. Is that low idle normal?

Well, cut some square tube stock to length and installed in place of those plastic end links. Needed a washer on the lower mount to fill the gap, but otherwise running the square tube looks like it was meant to be there it was so close. Top needed a washer on the outer end like the factory unit had. The passenger side had a split developing so I caught that one just in time. Took about 10 minutes to make both sides. Been driving it "spiritedly" and car seems to be handling well up front on harder turns with angular curves. No real difference with noise, and no clunking or unwanted sounds. Interestingly enough, the factory piece that snapped, did so around the the rubber bushing (bottom). It really wasn't that thick. Will have to wait and see how long they hold up over time, but at least now it's forcing the sway bar to do it's job. I'd say about a 10-15% improvement with handling is noticed. Now just have to find an STi rear to make the big wagon rear stay put

What are you referring to? Are you talking about manually holding a gear 1, 2, 3, etc.? Or are you saying there's a connector you splice into for a different effect? Can you elaborate?

Unless you like driving a limp noodle, you might want to upgrade both sway bars. At the very least, do the rear sway bar. The Outback is a direct swap for the wagon Legacy, guessing they are the same with sedan (somebody confirm?) I've already swapped a rear sway bar from an Outback and it was a big difference, but it's not enough. Definitely doing the front swap soon. Apparently you can get a factory rear 20mm from Impreza WRX, and use Forester bar-to-body mounts to mount to a Legacy. I'm going this route soon, though you'll be better off buying one on craigslist as WRX are typically hard to find in boneyards w/o stupid prices attached, unless you are lucky and find a yard that flat-rates prices. Lowering helps handling, lifting decreases it, so a good way to combat it better sway bars, unless you like slowing down for every single curve.

Thanks. After doing some other things with it, I started up briefly and for the first time it made some of the sound at idle. Quickly looked under car and found/felt a shield (that appeared/was tight) that despite being secure was making noise (runs length of pipe ahead of rear cat). Quickly worm clamped it. Then, while shutting the driver rear door, I heard another brief rattle. Thought WTF, they were all tight enough when under car, and 2 different mechanics looking it (plus me) over found no issue. So now the center shield between the drive shaft and body was acting up. Wedged a section of 3/4" heater hose between the body and shield. Started up and drove a bit. STILL getting a sound but it's not as much of flex plate teeth "zing" anymore and sounds more like another section of shield. Really weird. Almost wondering if the colder temp was affecting the metal or something. Anyways, appreciate the feedback everyone.

^^ Anyone? Going out now to fix a couple things, then putting some more time into finding out what's causing the noise. Any pics of a pulled trans bellhousing would be helpful. Did you read my last post Fairtax? Will be helpful going into it, especially if pulling the starter yields no resolve. Just concerned if something IS touching the teeth, then definitely need to get it out before something get's launched through the housing or worse.

It should be easy to tell which end of the car the fuel smell is originating from, either under hood or near the fuel tank. Old rubber will harden, and on colder starts fuel might be leaking past a clamp. Are you sure it's actually overheating? Is the coolant actually in the overflow and is coolant level correct? I'd buy a cheap mechanical coolant gauge, install it's probe (no need to mount gauge inside, just attach to coolant flow and monitor from engine compartment) and observe the readings. It's also possible for the radiator rows to get clogged with minerals from tap water (reason why you need to run distilled water) or the fins can get clogged over time from overly dusty roads or gravel road dust. Both situations will cause actual high temps once the thermostat is open as it can't actually cool, even with the fans forced on (like running the AC switched on with heater).

I know on my Saab what you are experiencing with it dying after heating up is commonly a failing a crank position sensor, and it doesn't always throw a code either, but could be many different things. The no-start, no-crank can be a neutral safety switch on manual trans or a range selector on auto trans. I know you can bypass the manual trans easily as it's a simple switch (also cheap to replace) whereas the auto has a sensor that's a little more complex (costs about $50 on rockauto).

My outside pulley for the AC belt was probably just like yours where it was ready to completely fail. That one gets replaced. It actually wobbled and was completely dry meaning the race was rotted or damaged and wasn't holding the bearings correctly. The timing pulleys weren't nearly as bad, but were in need of some grease. I'd say it's more of a "try at your own risk" sorta thing after evaluating, especially with the later model interference engines which you are better off installing new. If the bearing has been run dry for so long that it's destroyed the bearings or the race, grease won't help. Also, dunno how much different your tensioner is as opposed to mine, but I had to used a large c-clamp to compress it slowly over a couple minutes then stick a small welding rod end through the set hole to hold it. No way was it compressible by bare hands. Once the new belt was on and it was re-installed; after pulling the rod from the hole it tightened up against the pulley quickly on it's own, it was between a 1/8" to 1/4" from it's compressed height after providing full tension on the pulley. Way less extended then it'd been with the old belt. With the timing cover off, and timing belt attached and engine running, your idler shouldn't be bouncing but rather holding nice, even tension on the belt. If you start hearing a knocking noise over time, inspect this as it might be bad.

Heat shields are all tight. One of them already had a large worm clamp wrapped around to prevent movement. Only the long shield that runs under the drive shaft had 1 tab broken. I'll wedge something between it to 100% rule out, but it'd have to be vibrating at a super high speed and making contact with an object which it's not. Sound it too pronounced and the pitch is higher and consistent sounding. @Fairtax, can you explain the lower bellhousing cover to me? It's aluminum, right? What can bend? The valve covers leaked on this area for awhile and some residual grime is caked on the bottom of the engine and bell housing. To me it looks like a 1 piece unit? Anyone with a 4EAT trans bellhousing pic detached from engine, preferably with whatever little parts still attached and a pic of the back side of the engine block? The sound is definitely getting transmitted through STEEL, and NOT aluminum, meaning it sounds like a steel object touching the teeth the starter turns. Is it possible something on the starter is loose (internally, relating to the cog gear) and either vibrating or sliding slightly and touching the surface while moving? Car turns over fine w/o any starter issues. If I have to resort to a video, I will.

^ No need to justify

(car in sig) OK, had a weird "zinging" sound and thought it was the heat shields, but while out with car today noise came back. Had all new valve stems put in and while car was on lift, asked them to inspect. Shop guy couldn't find anything. I looked as well, and everything is tight. The heat shield between the exhaust and drive shaft does have a tab broken up front, but banging it didn't produce the same sound. I also checked the drive shaft in case it was touching, but no wear marks. If I didn't know any better, I'd say something was loose and (barely) touching the flex plate teeth making a ziiinnng sound. Starter is tight as well. I'm stumped. Definitely from the back of engine, near or under firewall area. Does a 4EAT even have a flex plate inspection cover? Anything inside the bell housing cavity known to break or come loose, possibly falling or laying on the flex plate or able to come in contact with teeth?

I beat you to it a couple posts up Also, his battery was going dead at times after sitting overnight.

If it started in Neutral before after not starting in Park, and you are getting NO clicking, I suspect the no start is the safety switch or maybe an issue with the wiring. It's called a "range sensor" on rock auto for auto trans. I know Ford has these and the symptoms are the same. Should be on the actual trans somewhere. http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1375084,parttype,4584 The $2 sensor is for manual trans unfortunately. I inputted a 2.5L engine in the search as I wasn't sure what yours has.

^ Are you saying the cam sensor is identical to the crank sensor? @ilvbugs To avoid potential money pit, you can get many sensors/parts at rockauto.com. You'll typically save a TON over dealer pricing, though the TPS and cam sensor for yours are stupid expensive. Also, these sensors are easy to replace, so unless you like throwing away $100 for hourly charge + whatever the sensor costs, you can typically buy it and install in 10 minutes with basic hand tool.. The cam sensor at RA is pricey, but I'm guessing it's way better than the dealer's price. http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1269558,parttype,7192 Other option is get one used.

^ You can pack grease in through the sides w/o removing the seal. There is a slight gap and it'll accept grease into the bearings. I'll use a rubber glove and bearing grease. Using a finger I'll load up, and smush in the side around entire seal, spin bearing, then add more. Ideally if you could fashion a wooden disc with an OD of the ID of the seal area, and make a wood peg in the center of the disc that travels through where the bolt goes, apply grease to the disc, the grease would press it in better. Either way, I redid all of mine instead of replacing them. All were at different levels of showing some age. After the grease was applied through the seam of the seal and excess wiped away, all the idlers and cogs were spinning with the same resistance and whisper quiet. Saved $90+ over complete replacement with bearings that still had life and were now extended to live a little longer (though this is a non interference unit so not worried). Thankfully none were as bad as Adventure's was, though I'm guessing his was squeaking or making some noise prior to complete failure.

I'll let Fairtax talk about the readings, but are you saying you tried to start, and got nothing (no turning over)? Or did it at least click (starter getting power)? Then you left it alone, went back, it cranked and started? If that's the case, you might have 2 different issues appearing simultaneously. Is it a manual trans or auto? Mine (auto) will only start in "N" or "P". There is a switch that prevents starting if in R, D, 1, 2, or 3 if auto. Manual trans would be a bad neutral safety switch. I'm wondering if yours is failing and not allowing the car to turn over on occasion. If/when it happens again (if auto trans) try putting in neutral and cranking; try taking out of park and running through the gears, then back in park and see if it starts. Dunno where the switch is on the manual trans, but it should be easy to bypass. Also unsure where the auto's safety switch is, but I'd look at this as a possibility for the no start symptoms.