Bushwick

^ LOL I painted mine with roll bar paint then took a can of axle grease and applied to all the welds, trouble spot seams, and coated the top in hopes it'll stave off any future rust while owning.

Might be a vacuum leak or something loose. If it has a turbo, it might have a loose pressure-side charge pipe. When under boost (typically while accelerating) the turbo is trying to pressurize the intake (it's essentially an air compressor). If there's a leak, the air coming out will sound like a bunch of noise, could sound like "TV static". Vacuum leaks, depending on where the leak is, can whistle, buzz, howl, etc.

A link or some back ground info would be nice. If you are a rep for them, might want to add this.

Try a different gas station and see if it persists. Can also try not forcing the nozzle all the way into the filler hole, but rather just far enough in that it won't splash or fall out (the rubber accordion or round flap on the nozzle is to prevent splash back, not seal from the outside). Honestly, I don't think it's your car. Also, some gas station nozzles are super sensitive and don't exactly "work" as intended. I've run into some nozzles that constantly shut off over the years, and wasn't the car. Oh, I wouldn't pressurize your fuel tank again. All it'd take is static to ignite and you'd have a super bomb, not too mention the components might get damaged. It's usually under vacuum, not positive pressure. When you remove a "working" gas cap after the car has been running, that's a vacuum seal you are breaking. If you don't hear anything, your gas cap might need replaced.

On the rear most lateral arm, the bolt that holds the bushing into the subframe has a slight cam action to it to with the washers to allow for the bar to be repositioned (in/out) a couple degrees. If you remove the bolt and drop the washers, (might need knock the raised rust off with a mill fill), you'll see several notches in the washer as a guide. Also, You might want to check the subframe isn't rotted and busting out. This can cause the entire assembly to move around or flex badly, causing the lateral bars to move around. Apparently rotted rear sub frames are VERY common. I bought mine with it just floating. Neither side was even attached to body (surprisingly it was still drivable and nothing in the drive-line was damaged). I haven't seen as "bad" in yards, but I've seen quite a few with giant holes in them up top and towards the back on the sides of where the 2 bolts hold the center housing to it. If yours is rotted, they are very easy to swap out and can be done in a day with basic hand tools. Also, the right rear brake line runs across the subframe and rusts out easily. If yours hasn't been changed, do it while the subframe is down. Judging by a small section of factory brake line left over near the fuel tank, mine was replaced once already before I bought the car, and needed replaced again when I did the sub frame, so that's 2 rear brake lines in 170k miles. If you don't have salted roads during the winter, it shouldn't be an issue, but if you do and there are no holes yet, consider power washing weekly to prevent salt from sitting on the surface as this is what kills the metal once it exposed. Oil sprays are good preventatives too.

Yeah, I think it just broke when I raised the front while doing the timing stuff. I think I'm going to run up to Lowe's and buy a mild steel square tube from the metal section, cut it to length, drill a hole at each end, and swap it in and see what happens. I might be able to harvest the bolt sleeve from the rubber bushings in the plastic and tack weld them so it contains the bolt properly. With that shouldn't have to worry about another "plastic" unit snapping from raising the car or taking a turn. If it works OK, I'll update in case somebody else wants to try it. Hmm. Well, guess there's some trouble shooting ahead. Didn't see anything disconnected while messing with the CPS, but wasn't looking that close. Bulbs rarely burn out, which makes me wonder if it's missing. Hopefully it's just unplugged by accident and not hiding anything bad, though after seeing the oil pump internals gotta say it looked near perfect.

If you converted it to a carb'd engine you wouldn't need the O2 as you can tune the carb- that's the only time I can think of where "no O2" applies. In your case, you should have paid $0.50 for a bung, or very least a flat nut and welded that in for your wideband instead of omitting the O2 for it as you probably ruined the cylinder walls and rings from overly rich, not to mention your cat is probably coated if you are running one. Wideband is a tuning tool and a way to detect potential trouble early, it's NOT a replacement for your O2 sensor. Of course the car is running like ****, the ecm can't read the exhaust and make proper adjustments. On a turbo'd engine the O2 is IMPERATIVE to controlling how the engine runs under boost. Your EGT were probably all over the place. Like I stated before, the car was probably running in a limp mode or a preset "tune" (it'll ignore readings from sensors and run on base settings) that kicks in when a major sensor fails but after a 1k miles I wouldn't be surprised if you really destroyed something. Real shame as it could have been prevented and now it'll be potentially costly to repair. EDIT: Put the O2 back in, change the oil and put new plugs (gap as per recommended, not something ridiculous) in and see if it runs. If it runs, get a compression tester and see where each cyl is at. If it won't start, do a compression test anyways to see if something mechanical is wrong. Remember to reset the battery for a while so the ecm resets. Can try starting fluid after you've replaced the plugs and oil to see if it'll fire or not. If it doesn't fire, than either no spark, bad Crank Position Sensor, etc. If it fires then stalls, look at the fuel system.

How in the world did you bend them? There's several Foresters here in NE OH local yards, but that'd be a huge drive from Beth. Try car-parts.com and search for cheapest within distance. Don't rely on a "yard's point grading" system either. I've found near new parts (like a reman starter for my Saab that must have been in the previous car for 3-6 months as the stickers were still on it and it had ZERO rust for $35) and other yards wanted 3-5 times as much. If it's pulled from car and on shelf, have them describe the bushing and overall condition. It'll save you a wasted trip. I believe the Forester is different (maybe someone else will confirm while this is at the top). Up to 99' the Legacy and Outback are the same though.

I'd say install the O2 sensor so the engine knows how to run. I'm guessing it's been in some sort of limp mode w/o the O2, hence being able to at least run. Guessing your plugs are ruined from overly lean or rich causing rough running now. Surprised you haven't leaned out and destroyed it yet. If it's a turbo'd engine with no O2 you should smack yourself....

Could be something with the rear brakes binding or sticking or something with the e-brake. Can you smell any odors? An overheated brake pad will stink like a burned up clutch does. It'll also lower MPG while binding as the engine has to work harder to move the car. Might not be enough to notice a difference accelerating. I know I've had a right rear locking on my Saab in the past. I didn't even notice it (and I'm super alert to any changes) while driving until I came to a stop and could finally smell it. Be VERY careful and get it diagnosed ASAP as a rear brake lock up on a wet road = rear kicking out and a crash. Very dangerous, lucky your wife can drive and stop, most people flip out and actually end their life that way.

OK, I was half out of it when looking. So far it's idling OK and very quiet, but those gd damn lifters are irritating me. Seems at least ONE on passenger side needs swapped out, though it's minor noise and infrequent. 15 of the 16 donor lifters were OK, with one that was slightly stuck at half way. I pulled up on it's plunger tip and it assumed correct height, wondering if it's the one? Either way, engine still sounds 100% better than when I picked it up. Now I gotta track down a replacement stabilizer end link as the front driver side is snapped. Still wondering what idiot engineer ever decided to use PLASTIC!? Plastic on suspension, and plastic intake manifolds are never good ideas, and way weaker and susceptible to breaking than aluminum. Any aftermarket places switch to aluminum end links for the sway bar? Either front or rear? If this keeps happening, I'll definitely upgrade.

Another question here, but which light is the "oil" light? I only see an orange "AT temp Oil" light in the cluster when key ON. I assumed it was for the trans, is that the engine oil light? Besides that, the CEL is the only other engine light I've seen. Rest are Airbag, ABS, Brake, and I think battery light.

I got it fairly clamped down (phillips bit in a 1/4" ratchet, 20-25 ft/lbs if I had to guess, as tight as they were going to ever be) and went with a very thin amount on that backing plate. Only went on the outer edge, well away from the rotor outline and still had no real excess out the sides so it didn't go inward either. By hand while rotating it with cover on, the rotor spun smoothly and I couldn't detect play. I'll idle it more tomorrow before putting the covers on and watch for leaks. If I wanted to run an external oil pressure gauge on this, what's the best spot? Right off the bottom of the pump housing? Guessing it'd be the left side bottom port? Also, are both those bottom ports on the oil pump housing meant for an oil cooler on a turbo car?

Took it out, completely disassembled, stripped the varnish off with oven cleaner, coated everything back with oil, thread locked, etc. I used the 518 and DID put on the backing plate, but did so VERY sparingly (like a 1/16" bead) only on the outer edge as to keep off the rotor (which was fresh oil covered), and locked the threads of the screws after a good cranking down. It hand spun fine after I primed with a small amount of oil. My thinking was if there was any irregularities in the mating surface between the backing plate and the housing itself, oil pressure and efficiency would drop as it leaked passed. This stuff is recommended for the oil pan on Saab (in lieu of an actual oil pan gasket) which has the same style oil pump rotors. The old RTV that was in this housing had seeped in and was in brittle clumped strips (one was blocking the exit of the oil pump housing leading into the pan) which is no good. The 518 won't do that and shouldn't ruin the rotor if it passes through soft as it's meant to dissolve in the oil as this is why it was used on Saab. It also doesn't need a set time. The How-to link also missed some flange surfaces to seal (I didn't). I got the new timing belt on, cranked it awhile in spurts to get oil pumping, then started. No leaks, no front end sounds, engine sounded even quieter than before and felt like it was running smoother. Time will tell. Also, the 518 can handle high heat in oil. My oil pan in the 2.0L is very thin and close to the engine where the down pipe and cat passes under the engine. With the VERY high heat the turbo puts in there, 518 will hold as good as day 1 a year later. May need heat to pop it off though, but doesn't leak or blow out, nor does it get soft over prolonged oil exposure.

Thanks for the link. Considering how expensive a new unit is, I didn't want to break a corner off the housing or damage anything. Got thread locker for the screws (blue and red), and the 518 for the housing as RTV clumps are no good with oil.

Is there a trick to removing the oil pump? All the 10 mm bolts are off and the spline gear is off the crank. Does it need a RTV seal broken or something? Was running out of day light and didn't want to force anything so figured I'd ask and try again tomorrow. EDIT: Also, are you guys referring to an actual "o-ring" or the front seal?

I'll throw some loctite 518 at it then. Can you check for any kind of play, scoring, etc. with it out? Is the o-ring the only thing sealing it to the block? I appreciate you guys mentioning it as I'd like to hang onto this as a 2nd driver and not interested in swapping in a 2.5 block yet. Nabbed a "Legacy" cargo cover from an Outback and being able to put my 65 pound dog back there on it was so nice not worrying about about scratches or poop. So glad I got this instead of a Ranger!

Thanks for the input guys. I didn't see any arrows though. I was using the (barely there) notches imprinted on the fronts of the cam sprockets. There is also white paint on them for easy reference I believe, as is on the crank, but the crank's white paint marker was WAY advanced and I was assuming it was referencing the crank's notch, but it wasn't. Found the notch for the crank. It appears to be better off than originally thought. Anything else to check with the oil pump itself? Are there any oil starvation symptoms or lower oil pressure if those screws are backed out? Reason I'm asking is the car had the lifter noise, and apparently both heat shields right under the head on the exhaust collector were loose at the base, and creating a *zing* sound I thought for sure was something touching the flywheel. Anyways, with quiet lifters, and quiet shields, I can hear a slight knocking (piston slap really an issue with these?) when letting RPM drop from say 1500 (under hood, not from in the car). When it drops to near idle, I can hear it. Reminds me of a really quiet diesel knock, only not 100% consistent and not there when revving. It has fresh oil and NO lights have come on (yet) and it runs fine otherwise. Seems to be from the the passenger side, near the back of the block. Should I pull the pan (or not) and check for connecting rod play?

Car has 177k miles and probably still on it's 2nd timing belt and most of the factory idler pulleys (at least one looks like replacement, rest appear original) so finally got around to pulling the cover today. Tried lining both cam index notches up with the slit in the back cover straight up at 12 o'clock , but one of them is off by a tooth. Anyways, the crank pulley has 2 different markings, an orange one and about an inch to the right a white one. Neither match the straight up 12 with the cams, and I'm not sure which one to go off? With the cams straight up, the orange mark is around 10, and the white one is around 2. Also, the actual notch in the crank pulley outer edge is around the 5-6 o'clock position. Is that just a timing mark for setting base ignition timing (assuming it's a carry over from distributor days?) Question about the oil pump, where is it? It's run off the timing belt, correct? Should I be worrying about replacing it at this mileage? Read somewhere here that you get little warning before the light gets tripped up, so would rather be on top of it while everything is apart.

If I were you I'd just cut the muffler out (and swap mid pipe resonator for straight section for a little extra drone) and go with an aftermarket muffler with 2" -2.5" dual outs instead, but shop carefully to avoid a terrible sounding muffler. It's pointless replacing the entire NA exhaust for basically no performance gain and just a different sound, hence a muffler swap. If it were turbo, then I'd say go with a larger down pipe, and 2.5" from cat-back. I used to buy K&N but now just get paper element w/o a metal screen impregnated into the rubber as it's a restriction. Also, the oil from the filter can coat the MAF sensor (if that has one) so be mindful.

Too bad you don't live here in NE Ohio. I have 4 Pull-A-Parts within a 35 mile radius and the ej22 is VERY common. ej25 seem to get snatched up though. Only $150 for a complete (either one) engine.

I guess the fun part is waiting for a WRX to happen along in a yard, or maybe luck out with a local craigslist offering. Doubtful many will want larger than 20mm, but maybe some wrecks or a parts car. The transverse mounts are OK. Pretty sure this was up to date with whatever recalls as PO mentioned something about the struts.

What year Forester and which bracket? The bracket that attaches to the body? Or the outer bushing bracket that slips into that? Also, what year STi?

@zacharyg Is the alternator actually charging? On some cars if the alt. dies, you'll get dash lights. Did you check that the belt is still there? To check the timing tensioner, you need to remove the serpentine belts, crank pulley, and both covers. Water pump is driven from timing belt so car can be started with acc. belts off. Watch the tensioner for the timing belt. If it's jumping or moving erratically while idling or revving slightly, it's bad. Several how-to videos on You Tube. Very easy fix and can cause a knocking sound that can fool you into thinking it's a main bearing or something. @Grossgary, can you elaborate on the flexplate cover sound and what causes it? I've been getting an odd *zing* sound like something briefly bumping the teeth, and a slight random knock that I don't think is internal from the same area. Might help the topic starter too otherwise PM.

I just bought a 95 Legacy L AWD Wagon as a winter vehicle about 2 weeks ago. Interior is immaculate, never smoked in, everything works (except cigar lighter which had the ground plug pulled from the case) including air. Heats up very quickly, and rides OK. It needed a rear cross member as the one in it when purchased was completely rotted out. I've looked at other ones in bone yards and many have rusted through. Subaru should have used aluminum as the salt seems to settle on the thin steel shortening it's life span. The rear brake lines seem to meet the same fate too, so something to consider if you don't weatherize it. It only cost me $18 for the cross member, and $10 for a brake line (I do my own work). Get an oil spray if you plan on keeping it and look over closely since the filler pipe area is rotted. In lieu of an oil spray, take to a spray wash place and rinse the underside often, and especially get the salt off the rear cross member to minimize rusting. I have to say Subaru's from that decade are VERY cheap to work on if you avoid the dealership. Many of us buy off of rockauto.com as the savings are huge. Also has to be one of the EASIEST 4cyl cars to work on that I've owned. Since the heads are horizontally opposed, each head is like a 2 cyl. It's very easy to do the head gaskets with basic tools and only about $20 for a gasket ($40 for a pair (SOHC). The newer head gaskets offered aftermarket are MUCH better than the factory ones, so keep that in mind. I needed an AWD winter car with room for the dog or trips to Lowe's, etc. and I've got no regrets buying my Legacy. It only cost a paltry $25 a month to add to my auto insurance Even after a full tune-up, fresh oils, and repairs mentioned, I've only sunk about $100 into it. You mentioned you live up north, so I'd have to say AWD is a nice selling point. Having had a dash of near freezing HEAVY rain and some snow Thursday, the car was very warm and felt stable while on the highway driving through it. Windows never fogged, rear wiper speed is great for visibly (wagon), etc. Happy with my choice as I was considering a Ranger or similar, but those can't offer car-like handling or MPG.