Bushwick

Finally got around to pulling the rocker assembly and inspecting the lifters. 8 out of 16 seem to have issues. 1 of those 8 had a bad check valve. The remaining 7 seemed to be stuck at about the half way point. The 8 good ones extend about a 1/4" if I had to guess and are solid feeling when pressing normally w/o pressing the check valve in and after bleeding. The 7 bad ones, even after bleeding in clean oil, the tips only extended about half as far as the 8 good ones, or maybe an 1/8". They still feel smooth when pressing the tip down and pressing the ball check in the back, but nothing was/is getting them to return to full height. So, just want to make sure those actually are bad? 8 lifters out of sync with the rest seems a little high, is this normal?

Turns out the master cylinder is OK and the brake line had a crack in it right where it meets the rubber line for driver-side rear caliper. Darnedest thing too. Like I mentioned above, it had NO leaks and would stop with 2-3 pumps of the pedal. Sometime while the rotted rear cross member was out, I started it and pressed the brakes and pedal went completely dead, but again no leaks. Even had the rear tires off and spent a bunch of time sitting in front of where the line started to snap- still no fluids. After the cross member was back in and rear tires were on, filled the master cylinder back up, hit brakes, and this time the reservoir was going dry. After a quick walk around, noticed there was spray in the rear wheel well. Back tire came off yet again, and found a partial break in the line about a millimeter from the fitting. A quick trip to AZ for a replacement line and a big bottle of DOT3. Put new line in, filled it up, bled out the rears, and lo and behold solid pedal! I'm stumped why there was no fluid leaking originally and the car at least had a pedal despite apparently having a bad line. Can't figure out how I didn't see the snap either. Oh well, at least it can stop now. Gotta figure out how to return the master cylinder replacement whenever it arrives.

www.car-part.com i wish i had a $1 for every time i have posted that address. PS: just going thru the process at car-part.com will be educational. because of all the choices and options . -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- I've been using car-part.com for many years. I remember back in the day going to a yard that actually CHARGED the buyer for a "part search" online which I refused. After getting home I decided to look for myself (online part searching was still sorta new at the time) and found car-part, though many yards they link to are still in the early 00's with what they think they can charge people, but it does help to locate local yards with good prices w/o having to spend an hour calling everyone to see if they have it.

Thanks guys. I ordered it last night and it's already shipped. It states under A-1 Cardone's link it's meant for a 95' Legacy with AWD and ABS. I might have taken up an offer of used had it been posted sooner, but with brakes I'm better off new or reman. When I got the car, the seller was saying the rear brake line was pinched/broken from the completely rotted rear cross member (this thing was just floating and no longer attached to the unibody LOL) coming in contact with it. The car still had brakes though, requiring 2-3 pumps and a very weak pedal and it would at least stop, so I figured it was a master cylinder and not a brake line as the reservoir was still full, though there was a brake line snapped in the back. Once I got going getting the rotted cross member out, it appears the broken brake line was actually left in place and was original but had been bypassed with new line. There are no brake fluid leaks, and the pedal finally went completely soft with no ability to stop the car. Having had master cylinders fail before in Fords (especially in early Fox Mustangs that ate through them quickly) the pedal and symptoms were identical to what the Subaru is doing. I also found a brake fluid bottle in the car, so it's possible the PO might have ruined it by mixing wrong fluids or something. $30 for a reman seems like a fair price (after core gets shipped back) and the name is at least well known.

I'll go ahead and get it then and see if it works. Thanks.

Thought I'd mention the higher the car gets, the more it impacts MPG. A trade off could be had with running taller and thinner snow tires (within reason and whatever will fit) in the winter for extra ground clearance, then running a lower profile street tire in the summer where the lower stance will yield better highway MPG. Maybe some cheap steel winter rims so you don't have to pay the mount fee every time. Taller tires will slow the speedo down a bit, so figure out how far it'd be off before getting a ticket.

Was looking on rockauto to order a master cylinder and noticed there are many different options so wanna make sure I get the correct one. Legacy has ABS, 4 wheel disc, auto trans, and no idea what "Hill Holder" is but guessing it's some sort of brake line lock? Is that an Outback feature or something? Pretty sure it doesn't have it. Here's the link: http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1269806,parttype,1836 The A-1 Cardone Part # 112589 for $39.79 seems fair with the $30 core, but it only states "AWD and ABS". The other options are specific to manual/auto trans, etc. Will I be OK with the unit I mentioned above? I'm wanting to get the least expensive unit that will work.

I was going to say O2 sensor even before reading that a shop said the same thing. Are you getting ANY O2 codes? In short, an O2 sensor shorting internally CAN and cause misfires, but usually it's a random misfire. I had this happen on my Saab which had a heater element fault in the rear/2nd O2. Car ran fine otherwise so it was ignored for awhile. Eventually, a random misfire would happen, often within 5 minutes of starting the car. Pull over, rev, it'd clear and be fine. Eventually while driving one day it did this, I revved to 3k and it backfired something nasty. Car was cat-less at the moment (thankfully). I pulled over and inspected thinking it dropped a pipe, only to find the muffler looked like an M80 went off in it! 1 year old muffler completely separated at the seams and went from oval to round- never saw anything like that before. Didn't damage the turbo or anything else but the muffler. I replaced BOTH O2 sensors after that and the misfire went away. O2's are cheap for Subaru and they'll probably get you a bump in MPG if original, but can't guarantee it's your issue, but won't hurt to replace. Since it's a P0302, I'd look at the plug wires 1st and maybe a failing coil. Just because the wires "look" OK or are a year old, doesn't mean they are any good. Especially if they are cheap wires. Can try switching the wires for one side (switch both ends obviously) and see if the P0302 turns into a P0304 etc. Remove the battery cable to reset. Also look for plug wire chaffing on ANYTHING metal. Might be grounding out. If you can find a coil a junk yard for cheap, try swapping it in and see if the issue persists or goes away. If nothing changes after all that, might want to try new O2 sensors. rockauto has them for pretty cheap prices. Do NOT get universal O2 as they can be troublesome. Be glad it's not a Saab where my O2 cost $80 EACH and are closer to $120 EACH at the parts store!

As far as your OBDII port not getting recognized, I've had this happen in TWO other completely different (model/make/year) cars that worked fine one minute, then not the next. What was happening is when the person attaching the scanner plug, they were pressing it in at an ANGLE. This will cause the pins in YOUR OBDII connector to back out slightly, causing a NO read from the scanner. What I suggest is unscrewing the OBDII port connector so it's dangling, then look very closely at the back side where the wires get crimped to the pins. They should all be evenly lined up. Look for the crimping on the pin/pins that is NOT lined up. Simply press back into the connector. LEAVE port dangling, and try to get another code reader hooked up, only insist you do it. Just be easy with the connector and try to insert as straight as possible. If the pin is really loose, it'll back out again as soon as the scanner is attached. In that case, once the scanner is hooked up, manually push the pin back in. The connection will be completed and you can scan for codes. Both cars I owned (Ford and Saab) had this happen at completely different places and years. In both cases I knew the OBDII worked, so after investigating closer I found the pins are easy to push out. You might have several pins out (talking like a millimeter here, they appeared to still be connected) so look closely. The fuse being blown might be a separate issue.

Thanks for the advice WW. Been focused on getting the rear back together before I tackle the stuff under the hood, so haven't had a chance to investigate further. Good point about a coolant temp sensor. Will investigate further once the fuel filter and extra parts arrive sometime in the next couple days and hopefully update with good news.

Miles, you forget to check back? If you can get a quote in the next few hours I'll wait, otherwise I'm going to modify mine (car is in parts in driveway). They should be able to fit in a "Large Flat Rate Box" from USPS (24"L X 12"H X 3"W is the rough measurement I have of one sitting in front me). I'll hold off messing with the arms a little while longer. Thanks Miles.

I'm just referring to the 4 lateral bars (2 per side) that run from the strut to the cross member. Not sure what the taco arm is? Is that the link from the lateral bar to the sway bar end? Mine are actually OK. Don't need bolts or anything else as the donor's appear to be brand new minus a year or so. How much for the 4 lateral bars shipped to 44224? I'll check back once more tonight in a couple hours then won't check back until 10-11 am Weds

Looking at my 4 control/trailing arms the bushings have seen better days. Considering how stupid expensive replacement bushings are (not to mention the PITA it looks like it'll be to press out old ones and press new in) I was thinking of welding a washer to each end, essentially locking the center to stop it from moving and bypassing the need for rubber which has to cause some unwanted flex anyways. The outer rubber ring is completely rotted off all 4 bushings (both sides) so a large washer could easily slide over the center and sit snug against the the arm, then tack it to the outer edges. Pull-A-Part had a nice set of 4 that came off the donor for my rear cross member that were actual recent replacements, but $20 EACH seemed a little excessive for a straight bar with bushings- the entire cross member with (new) bolts was only $18 so I'm looking for "free" alternatives. Anyone else try this? Or anyone running some sort of solid bushing (or adjustable end link) in after market arms? Any issues or noise? Any problems you can think of I might run into?

^ I'll check the battery after it's been sitting just be sure. The night I bought it and parked it, the dome light had been on all night (PO must have turned it on for some reason while showing me the car as I never touched it). It still started though w/o needing a jump and I let it run for awhile. I pulled the battery to clean it off and paint the battery bracket, replace "J" hook hold downs, etc. and seemingly it started doing this after reinstalling the battery. Connections are OK and clean. What's the test procedure for the crank and cam sensors? Any idea what ohms they should display and across which wires?

I was wondering why my Legacy wagon only has a curb weight of roughly 3k pounds and not 3400-3600+. I think this explains part of the reason. ^Definitely do NOT lift these things w/o back support or a friend. As someone who fell off a semi and herniated a disc in the lumbar region, back issues are no fun and do NOT go sway (even with surgery) and simple day to day activities are completely screwed forcing extra care or complete avoidance of back-irritating activities. I was 32 when injured (35 now) and 100% healthy/fit. Granted it was a fall, but bad lifting techniques can cause the same types of injuries. *This has been a public service announcement*

Rockauto has them. Here's a link for the rack and pinion bellows for a 98' Legacy in case you can't find them locally for a good price: https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1305492,parttype,11362 Dunno which emgine you have, so input proper but prices should still be the same. Would get the slightly better ones as they might be a better rubber compound = last longer.

Couldn't you just get a custom bell housing or adapter plate? Or am I missing something?

Been starting the car daily (undrivable while the rear cross member is getting replaced) and noticing it's been cranking 4-5 sec before starting (just seemed to start doing this oddly). I've got new plugs, wires, fuel filter, and timing belt being shipped and still in transit so none of that has been changed yet. Is there anything else like crank position sensor, ignition coil, fuel pump, etc. that when starting to fail cause slow-to-fire engines? Once it fires it runs fine and revs respond quickly. Thoughts?

If you can't find a hood in the color you want, but CAN find a clean, dentless hood for cheap, you can buy exact matching color aeresol base paint online (pricey, about $20 a can but it's the correct color) and the same place sells a clear for it too. If done right, it'll look near as good as what's on there. Otherwise try a cheap Maaco but they're likely to put wrong shade down. Here's the color codes for a site I like (I have 95' listed but the mica red is there too): http://www.automotivetouchup.com/touch-up-paint/subaru/1995/legacy/ Here's the actual paint: http://www.automotivetouchup.com/spray_paint.asp I've seen others do entire bumpers, grills, hoods, etc. and I honestly couldn't tell the difference once the clear was applied. The site I linked to also has How-To videos for each product. I'll be ordering Amethyst Metallic (weird color) to redo some sections on mine and possibly a new hatch as I doubt I'll find one this color in a yard anywhere. As long as the base goes down perfect, it's just a matter of getting the clear on correctly and buffing (depends on clear I think if buffing is warranted I'm not a paint guy)

This is just in the "thinking stage" as the idea is popping my head, but I was wondering about the feasibility? Not talking a turbo swap from a turbo'd car, but rather swapping a turbo in and maybe mixing parts to get it to work. I have a spare GT2554 sitting around (needs exhaust housing so can always swap on a Subaru style to use a factory manifold) that would be more than enough even if it only saw a max of 10 psi (even 5-8 on the smaller turbo might be enough to avoid piston swap) which I think would be OK with the compression ratio of the engine so long as 91-93 octane is used. I have some extra turbo stuff from the Saab so that'd be a start. Some answers are in the other ej22 thread here, but some are unanswered. Just thinking out loud here, but I'd need: -drain into oil pan -fuel pressure regulator? -MAP sensor? -Injectors? -fuel pump? -intercooler, piping (would run a FMIC and none of that top engine stuff) -coolant lines to/from -oil feed -BOV (have a Bosch) -support bracket for turbo -proper exhaust manifold -down pipe -ECM swap? (Are the ECM's married to the car? Couldn't you just swap in an Impreza or another pre OBDII turbo cousin's ECM and harness? Throw an MBC on it to limit boost to 8-10psi and call it a day? -Is timing electronically controlled on 95' ej22? Or can it be retarded manually? Would it be easier to swap most parts from a turbo'd (pre OBDII) cousin? Care to explain how you turbo'd yours? A GT25 on a FWD Saab (with MBC) was nothing but wheel spin, but on an AWD platform the extra early torque should make it scoot and a 7-8 cm exhaust housing should help it stay alive above 5k though it might not be needed for this power level.

Thank you very much for the offer Miles. It'd be a good trek to drive up there. If I was closer I'd definitely give it a go.

This 95' Legacy wagon I bought has rust on the lower fenders near mudflaps, lower doors, and the hatch panel near the license plate is shot (the rear hatch is a priority). I hate rust, even on winter cars. What are my options for body part swaps? I know the Outback wagon is basically the same, and take it the bumpers and hood are interchangeable with Impreza too? Anything else?

Any car you get serious about that makes any weird noises, have YOUR mechanic of choice look it over (do NOT take the car lot's word for it or the car lot's mechanic). Most often used car lots get a big chunk of their cars from auction houses, and are NOT trade-ins to their own lot, rather the car isn't nice enough to be sold on a new dealer's lot so they sell it at auction instead. Depending on the used car lot, they might drive it off the truck and put it out front with nothing but a quick check that it runs and a detail to make it presentable. Many used places are SUPER cheap with what they'll put into it (like replacing 2 tires instead of 4, no oil or trans fluid change, etc.) I went and looked at a Jeep once that had no bolts in the fan shroud and the fan was rubbing on it! I also worked at a used car lot in my early 20's so I learned a few things (many bad things to be honest). If you have 5500 cash, you'd get a WAY better deal buying a car from somebody selling locally. Even craigslist would find you a nice car with that mileage range for HALF of what a car lot wants to sucker you with. On CL, just type the price range MAX and put "Subaru" in the search box. You'll also get a more detailed history this way as you are meeting the actual owner and it's pretty easy to tell when they are BSing you. Any "strange" noises that are easy fixes can be used to lower the asking price. Personally, when I look at a car someone is selling, I'll look it over for 30-50 minutes (let it idle the entire time and watch the temp) while making sure each lock works with the key, each window moves, everything inside turns on/off, seats move, etc. Look over engine compartment THOROUGHLY for unhooked wires, hoses, leaks, unusual smells, etc. If you find something wrong, point it out to the seller but do it nicely. Most people aren't aware, or they are and hoping you won't catch it. Check for rot in the rear if AWD, check for bad struts, etc. etc. Take for a test drive and comment if it pulls, squeaks, etc. Explain it'll need it 4 wheel alignment. Then, and only then talk price, but be sure to state that the extra things wrong will need fixed. This puts the seller at a disadvantage as they now know there are extra things "wrong" and the car they "thought" was cherry, isn't. Don't let on if you can do the work yourself either as it costs more to "pay" someone to do the work which in theory gives you better leverage for chipping the asking price down. If the ad states "firm" in price and isn't a cherry car, needs work, you can say you are interested in it, but with the work needed could they work with you on the price. If they really want to sell the car and think you are a serious buyer and not wasting their time, they might be willing after you pointed out what needs repaired. I'll only buy new cars or very special (rare, hard to find) from dealers or car lots as they get that 5k car for 2k at auction and double the price to make money from it sitting. GL with whatever you get.

This is just in the "thinking stage" as the idea is popping my head, but I was wondering if anybody has turbo'd their NA ej22 ? Not talking a turbo swap from a turbo'd car, but rather swapping a turbo in and maybe mixing parts to get it to work. I have a spare GT2554 sitting around (needs exhaust housing so can always swap on a Subaru style to use a factory manifold) that would be more than enough even if it only saw a max of 10 psi which I think would be OK with the compression ratio of the engine so long as 91-93 octane is used. I have some extra turbo stuff from the Saab so that'd be a start. What can the ej22 NA handle if boosted? 225-250 would be nice. Just thinking out loud here, but I'd need: -drain into oil pan -fuel pressure regulator? -MAP sensor? -Injectors? -fuel pump? -intercooler, piping (would run a FMIC and none of that top engine stuff) -coolant lines to/from -oil feed -BOV (have a Bosch) -support bracket for turbo -proper exhaust manifold -down pipe -ECM flash or swap? Would it be easier to swap most parts from a turbo'd (pre OBDII) cousin? Care to explain how you turbo'd yours? A GT25 on a FWD Saab was nothing but wheelspin, but on an AWD platform the extra early torque should make it scoot and a 7-8 cm exhaust housing should help it stay alive above 5k.

^ Sounds like a good idea. Will definitely check them out if they don't quiet on their own. Does the rear diff (or even front diff for that matter) have limited-slip? I bought limited-slip 80w90 just in case, but unsure otherwise. Does the rear cross member need thread locker on any bolts? I'm planning on using anti-seize as much as possible.