Subinoobi

Oh it's going into a loyale. Thanks for the info guys I'll give it a shot.

I've already searched and found these, I just wanted to clear things up. as far as I'm concerned it's just bolt off and on. But I want to make sure.

So I recently scored an lsd out of an 88 gl-10 but the gearing is 3.70 and I want it with my 3.90 d/r. I've read a few writeups but I just want to clear things up. Is it really as simple as unbolting the 3.70 ring and bolt on the 3.90? I've never messed with a rear diff before so I'm not too educated on these things and somebody told me swapping the rings will screw up the backlash or something.

Cool, thanks for the info guys! Are those backing plates fwd or 4wd? I'm definitely interested I want to get the last piece of the puzzle!

So I have everything for a rear disc swap for my loyale except the backing plates (someone robbed them before I could). I've been reading mixed posts about using 2wd backing plates and widening the center hole. Some say it can be done others say it can't. I just want a more definite answer on the topic. Thanks!

I've heard good things about SJR lifts and as far as I know he's still selling him. He has anywhere from 2-9 inch lift kits available and can custom make anything in between! http://www.sjrlift.com/index.php/catalog/lift-kits

Yeah I reread my question and it's not too descriptive. Okay I plan on going with 14x6 rim when I redrill my hubs for a six lug. What backspacing/offset should I look for so that I won't need to do any cutting/bashing with a 2 inch lift?

So I'm going to do a 6 lug conversion here soon and I want to put 25.5 inch tires on a 14 inch rim. What were the backspacing on the pug rims, and what kind of backspacing do I need so that I don't have to do any cutting? I plan on doing a 2 inch lift with it, and I just hate the thought of bashing/cutting anything.

I have a few writeups on ej 22 swaps, but most of them are more directed to phase 1 obd 1 swaps in ea82 cars. Do those writeups apply for obd 2 swaps as well or are there a few key differences? Thanks!

Good, that simplifies things! I apologize for the seeming stupid question I've just never dropped a trans so I want to get a good picture in my head before I get underneath it.

Also what all is included in removing the shifter assembly below? I'm assuming from above is the console and 4wd shifter right?

Wow that's crazy! Yeah I'll definitely be careful on that. Do I need to fully remove the axles or can I just punch out the pin and maneuver them out of my way?

Oh you mean cutting the joint of the original coupler and extending it. I'm still a little ify on that idea I'm not the best welder. So the outback coupler will just fit right in a 3 in lift with no cutting or modding required. Right?

I'm actually now considering a 3" lift, but regardless I want to drop my subframe as I don't want to go through axles. For some reason I just really don't like the idea of cutting my axle shaft and welding it back togother, I really want to go with a coupler. So to those who can verfy this, combined with my research, a 90-94 legacy steering coupler will work perfect for a 2 inch lift and dropping the subframe 1 inch, and a 96-99 outback steering coupler will work perfect for a 3 inch lift and dropping the subframe 2 inches. Does thise info seem accurate?

So I can't seem to find solid facts about this. If I lift my loyale 2" in will I need to extend my steering shaft? If so what's the easiest way to do this? I read somewhere I can use an outback steering coupler and be fine, does it matter if the coupler is slightly longer than needed or will that mess everything up?

So I plan on grabbing a d/r trans for my 90 loyale this weekend, I was just wondering what little I should look for to ensure it's a solid trans. I know you can't tell much without driving it but if theres any tips you guys have I would love to hear them. Also any tips on making the dropping process easier? Should I just pull the engine and drop it from there or leave the engine in? What basic seals should I replace while I have it out before I drop it in my loyale? Thanks guys!

UPDATE: So I replaced my coolant temp sensor (the green plug) and it made a pretty big difference. If it weren't for the fact that I have voltage issues too it probably would have solved the problem entirely. But now my rpm drop is not as erratic. It will stay where it should until the fan kicks on, in which it will drop to 400-600 rpms and start to shake like it used to. I've also noticed that everything else will drop my rpm when turned as well, like my brights or blower motor full blast. I know it's not my alternator nor voltage regulator, so at this point I'm leaning towards either a dodgy ground, positive wire trouble, or a short somewhere. Although a vacuum leak is still a possibility. Any ideas on where I should start on this?

Yeah this literally describes my car. I don't get it I'm stumped.

So I have a 90 loyale and I'm at a loss. I can't seem to figure out what the problem is. I really have 2 problems. So when I'm sitting at idle, my rpm's fluctuate between 500 and 900 rpms, and the car visibly shakes like a spark plug is out or something. If I drive for a little while, and come to a stop it stas around 1000-1200 before dropping down to fluctuate. I have no check engine codes anymore, I just fixed the light which led me to the egr solenoid, found a working one at junkyard. No visible vacuum leaks (I just resealed the motor, so when I pulled it I checked every vacuum line that is associated with engine removal). the other problem I have is my voltage likes to drop whenever I turn anything on that requires a bit of juice. I put a new alternator in it and that didn't fix it, so I know it's not that or the voltage regulator so I'm pretty sure it's a dodgy ground somewhere in the dash or something. I have brand new thick ground cables to the engine and one from the engine to chassis, so I don't think that's where the ground issue is at. Could the two be related? The other thing I've noticed is that I get maybe 20 mg city, and I'm pretty sure I should be getting more. It's a 4wd 5 speed manual, and despite them getting less than fwd models I should still be getting a bit more than that. So any thoughts guys? I'm completely stumped. The only thing on the drawing board right now is that the purge valve might be stuck open, but I hear it clicking when I turn the key and it has continuity. I've read that a stuck purge valve is like a huge vacuum leak though so it's a thought.

So I need to replace my fuel injector in my throttlebody, as well as the gaskets, but have no idea how to go about this. Does anyone have a write up on this? Thanks guys!

So a little update on my situation, after close inspection, those 2 valves were somehow grinded down by my rocker arm. Nobody I know has ever seen that before. I don't see anything wrong with my rocker arms and my cams appear to be okay, I would think I would physically see what's causing such a drastic grinding. Any thoughts?

Well after a bit of looking I noticed I had some play with my rocker arms. I got some remanufactured heads because my old ones were cracked through the port runners. Anyways the new heads, for some reason 2 of the valves are shorter where the rocker arms sit than all the rest of them on both sides by like 1/4 in. i never noticed this before although I should have. Now I'm just utterly discouraged.

So all of my lifter are rock hard. I'm kind of scared this tick is something else. Any thoughts?

Thank you so much for this post, it helps out so much. And Ruparts, I shall keep that in mind thanks for the tip! So I just got my o rings from the dealer and I ordered an oil relief spring (they only had one in the area) just in case one is worn too much. So i'm gonna try to do all of this in the car as I've already pulled the motor twice recently and I really don't want to do it again. Hopefully after a good clean and the right seals I won't have the terrible tickiong that's going to make me go insane!

I have 194k on it. I used some permatex anaerobic sealant. About those relief valves, I've never messed with those before, is there a specific procedure, or are they pretty noticeable and straightforward? Where would I get the new springs and plungers at if I need new ones? and how exactly will I know if they're worn?