pmichaud

But can I use a locking diff? this is what I ordered.... Item specifics Condition: Used Conditions & Options: REAR, 2.0L, MT (4.11 RATIO) Mileage: 7000 GenuineOEM: True Model: IMPREZA Inventory Number: 440-58698B Year: 2013 Designation: Used Inventory ID: 317573 Placement: Carrier Assembly Stock #: 140261 PartNumber: 440

Old thread, but I have a question I hope someone can answer. I have a 98 Legacy GT manual. The rear diff is shot. Will a locking diff from a newer model ( with correct 4.11 ratio) work as a replacement? Thanks! Paul

Hi, I am looking for Dark Blue Outback Hood and Fenders but having no luck.... Where are the larger Subaru populated pick and pulls in the NE???? Thanks Paul

I am picking up a 98 in Seattle next week, and driving back to NY. Any outstanding yards I should stop in? Thanks Paul

Hi all, If all other variables were the same, which would you lean towards????? Looking at GT Sedan. I have had 4 others subies, can do my own mechanical work...still driving 97 OBW w 150,00 k on it. Paul

Hers a section from a guy who stuck one in an airplane. I used it to get my swap running right...If I could find it I would give him credit......!! (Sorry) Changes needed for 1995 thru 1998 year ECM: 1) Tell the ECM you have a manual transmission. Since your engine most likely came with automatic tranny, you need to remove wire #2 from the mass air flow sensor (this connects to pin 47 of ECM). You also need to supply a ground wire to pin 81 of the ECM. Auto tranny wiring harnesses don't have a pin at that location, so I just stole one from an unused wire. While I was at it, I also snipped the wires from pins 61, 79, and 80 since manual transmission vehicles have no connection at those pins. Note, the transmission code still faults occasionally. I have yet to completely eliminate it. 3) You need to duplicate the ignition switch wiring. It needs to see at least 5v at pin 82 of ECM in order to start the engine. I just wired the 12v from the ignition "accessory" terminal to that pin. This tells the ECM that the tranny is safely in "park" position. Engine modifications: The EGR valve interferes with my engine cowl. So I just removed it along with the supply tube. I then mounted an aluminum plate over the opening to seal off the intake manifold. I placed a large ball bearing behind the tube fitting to seal the hole. I left the controlling solenoid in place and wired, as the ECM checks for the voltage drop. Optionally I could have removed solenoid and installed a high watt resistor. See pic below.

I swapped harnesses on my 2.5 egr > 2.2 non egr; and have the little solenoid dangling , but still get EGR CEl? Anybody have the fix ? Thanks in Advance... Paul

Because I am so old I cant remember if the car from the junk yard last week was an auto or maunal, but....that ECU didnt work in either car. Both cars I have are standard... 97 Outback wagon 5 spd was 2.5 now has a 98 2.2 in it.... 96 Legacy Brighton wagon 2.2 5 spd.... And the light came back on while I was out for dinner, but I dont care ! I have 364 days to figure it out. Paul

Well,......I yanked the computer out of my other car ( 96 2.2 no egr) and went to auto zone, lceared the codes, and went to inspection station....and it passed ! Now I can send in the certificate with the ticket I got last week, and hope for a full pardon !!!! Thanks Guys.. I am going to pull the coil off the 2.5 and get that on there for next year.

Thanks guys.

What should I search under to find the threads? I didnt find any yesterday by using " emc" " Computer" "Egr" etc. Will an egr from my old 2.5 work? Paul

I recently swapped my 2.5 97 w egr out for a 98 ej22 wo egr....Obviously the cel is on looking for the egr. I bought a computer out of a 95? ej22 and the car wont start. Which yr/engine computer should I look for so I can pass emissions inspection with no CEL ? THANKS Paul

Changed all three seals, cams and crank, new belt, new idlers, water pump etc... What fun.

Thanks ! So its needs a pure manifold vacuum...I think thats how its hooked up.... I will check...the swap last weekend was a 97 2.5 to a 98 2.2 ...not all the vaccumm lines were exactly the same....

Map Baro sensor?? is that on engine or car??? What does it do?

I just picked up genuine Sube Wires other day and am swapping them out tommorow, thought I'd clear codes then.... I have to change some oil seals, and some idlers, and some pumps.....etc

While waiting for fed ex to deliver some parts this morning, I thought I'd ask ... anybody ever heard of this? Slight stumble at exactly same rpm.....engine is a 98..tranplanted into my 97 OBW. Paul

Is a 98 EJ22 interference? I already know the answer, just fantasizing it changed overnight and no one informed me.

The round part of the covers are dry, it seems wet on the bottom center of the center cover...

I just put in an engine I got from a junk yard, it runs great after Gary suggested I change the plug wires. I havnt pulled the covers all the way, I have no garage and its single digits here. Considering the amount of oil, is it safe to assume I'll find the pump leaking somewhere? Are the pumps like those on the old 1.8 's that were in GL series??? I suppose a belt, cam seals and oil pump replacement is needed? Thanks Paul

Ding Ding Ding...tell him whats he's won Johnny. I TEMPORARILY put on a new set of brand X wires from autozone, and it runs like new !!! I couldnt wait until the dealer opened tommorrow, I just had to know. I'll go after wotk and get the real ones... THANKS !!!!

Just got back from runing around town for 2 hours. Car ran GREAT after about 20 minutes, nomisfires, plenty of power...picture perfect. I stopped and read the codes from ECM and got Misfire cylinder 2, No EGR ( which I knew would be there), and Evap canister path.... I did the SEAFOAM fogging through a vaccum line while out, and put rest of can in gas tank, which was 1/4 full. Drove home ( 12 miles ) at highway speed, ran great, turned corner into nieghborhood, and bam, runs crappy, misfiring CEL blinking etc.... Now thinking changing plug wires first ( Subaru brand) , then coil pack..... Sound right?

Alternator is new this past summer ( rebuilt) battery in good shape.

It was supposed to be a 96 motor, but a hand written tag on it says 98. How else could I tell which it is? The donor car is unknown, in PA, I am in NY so I dont really know how the vacuum lines were set up... I am just guessing. Can I change the plugs with the engine in the car???? Looks very tight.