Brett!

what junk yard search are you using?

I have 7" wide wheels on mine, but its all about the backspacing. Get that wrong and your going to have problems. I am running these wheels on my BRAT. They are: 15x7" US Wheel 70-5760P http://www.summitrac...ts/usw-70-5760p

By running a larger rotor, I would fabricate a caliper relocation bracket. I recently bought a Terraflex brake package for my Jeep that did the same thing. It reuses the stock caliper and allows you to run a 13.5" rotor instead of a 11" rotor

also... does anyone know of a larger rotor size that fits the front / rear stud pattern?

First. Thanks for all the info! You guys rock. Second, ya... what is a residual valve?

Correct, I have a first gen Brat. I was also considering trying to find oversized rotors and building a custom caliper relocation bracket. What years constitutes generation 3?

The stock brakes are not quite cutting it anymore since I uped my rim size to 15". Has anyone done anything to boost breaking performance?

Got it installed. So much better. Not getting gassed out while I drive anymore.

I just dropped it off at the shop. Turns out that they have an original system from the resonator back! It might not add a growl, but hell, OEM parts in 2015!

Driving my Brat for more then 15 min is a dangerous proposition. The exhaust is so riddled with holes that the entire cab quickly fills with fumes. I have an appointment at a muffler shop on monday to get it fixed. However, should I patch the stock pipes or put an entirely new system on. If you choose the new system option. Please suggest a diamtor of pipe and a type of muffler that will make that small flat 4 sound like it has a bit more grunt, but not like it some shitty "tuned" honda hatch. Also, what are the advantages / disadvantages of replacing the catalytic converter. Im running a weber.... so its not really doing anything right now.

Would it be better to lay new fiberglass over the top of the dash?

Hey, are you parting that car out? Ill take the front fenders if they are not spoken for.

Not sure what to call it, but the front end body panel is different between the tow models. The 2 headlight version cuts down in to that panel and the quad headlight is straight.

Success! Well, sorta failure and then success. You guys were right, those bolts were super rusted and gross; however, I was able to brake them free with out any issues. The failure part cam into play because I didn't buy the right water pump. Turns out I had the top mount starter tranny. Luckily Scooner had just gone through the drama of finding the right part number. I just followed his thread and was able to source one locally at Napa. Everything is put back together and running right in time to go have some 4x4 fun in the snow.

Man I wish their were people who cared about Old Subarus where I live.

I still havent taken care of this because I am in the middle of moving. However, when I do should I avoid using my impact on the water pump bolts? Would a quick blast of tork snap them off? Discuss.

Thanks for the heads up and the advice! Ill let you know how it goes tonight.

My girlfriend came home from work last week and told me she had "Blown Up" the BRAT. I wasn't pleased, but after a little bit of investigation I figured out that the bearings in the water pump had exploded and the coolant system was leaking everywhere. I ordered a new pump, and I plan on putting it on tonight; however, I was wondering if their is anything I should know before I take the old one off and put the new on on. Mainly I am concerned about misaligning the timing when I remove the belt. Do I have anything to worry about here?

Do you have a Webber on it? If so, what jets are you running?

can you customize the color in the game? If so i need an xbox and forza so I can figure out what color I want.

Sorry it took me a while to get back about about the wheels on my BRAT. They are: 15x7" US Wheel 70-5760P http://www.summitracing.com/parts/usw-70-5760p

Here is my BRAT.

I just saw your post about your governer gear. Sorry I got that one off of ebay. If you look at my other post, don't buy the other gear that is green. I bought it as well because it was cheep and I wanted to see if it was an adequate replacement. Its to big. PS, if you had a leaky gasket you have a lean condition. Lean = to much air, Rich = to much gas.

Sorry, I snagged that to fix my DL

Just to be clear. No I am not running a webber on the DL. I have the stock carb, and its having trouble. Cleaned it out and re hooked the case vent hoses that had been taken off by the previous owner. However, that didn't fix the bogging issue. Its almost as if its running to rich. The initial hesitation might be because the engine has to burn of the excess fuel before it can start running right. Does anyone have any other stock carb tuning suggestions?