mcbrat

maybe it was 13/16 vs 1-1/16. it was a quarter inch, which according to a local guy was more than enough.

no, but if you try to lengthen the rod, the worry is getting too close to the first line feed and causing an air leak into the fluid... the legacy MC will bolt right up to the booster, but the lines have to be re-routed or adapted. where the stock MC is I think 7/8 or 15/16 bore, the Legacy is 1 1/8 bore I think...

yeah. I've got the Toyota v6 calipers on the front of mine, with Celica rear calipers... the stock MC just barely works... I've got a Legacy one sitting waiting to be installed....

there should have been a wiring harness for the intake. the oil pressure sender is part of it. one of the connectors off it would be the choke wire. but it's a a 2 lead connector. you just need to create a jumper wire from it to the weber choke. you need one that in +12V only when the IGN is on.

usually, the spring on the throttle assembly shaft is not enough to fully pull back the throttle...

it's a nice addition, but most of the time I have just taken a flat 1/2 steel piece and cut, drilled, bent to fit, and attach it to the manifold... don't forget the throttle return spring... I've done those lots of ways. hooked to the bottom of the air cleaner plate, hooked to the radiator, hooked to a custom bracket that was attached to the choke...

you can put another fitting on the weber pointed towards the front of the car that would be for the return line, or you can just leave it off. I've done it both ways... or you can reuse the feed off the hitachi. it will screw right into the weber... and it already has a return fitting on it... you do not need the anti-diesel solenoid, and there is a hole there, but its not an open hole... if that makes sense...it would have to be drilled and tapped to fit the ADS in.

as long as everything is still uninstalled, I would go ahead and do a gasket match port/polish on the manifold and adapter.... every little bit helps on these slugs

I've done them both ways. mostly I left the hose there so the coolant still passes through the manifold. On Ben's, I just put a new hose on so coolant is always flowing through to the manifold. I've never plugged up the port at the carb mount, and have never had one leak either...

did you get the D/R from the yard you mentioned, or find another car being parted?

the spots where the wires attach to the motor sometimes corrode badly and break off there. I have had one where the case for the motor actually cracked too, and all kinds of funny stuff happened....

check to see if there's a set of connectors/wires from the outer to inner set. I snagged a set off a peugeot once. it was a factory made adjustable set to run both sets of headlights at once....

not a rock in the place.... http://www.indysworld.com/ci4wi/2010/pics/castana-2010.html with my Brat, prior to the solid axles, I used to burn a lot of clutch material to make some of the hills, and had to wait for the others to fully clear the hill so I could make a run at it. it helps if you have a welded rear or locker. thre are some areas I wouldn't take a EA based vehicle... I had a couple of trouble spots last year because my gearing still needs some help with the 36's....

The annual CI4WI Timber Ridge Trail Ride Event at Timber Ridge Ranch outside of Castana Iowa, is scheduled for Sept 21-23, 2012 Please find the registration forms here: http://www.ci4wi.org/portal2/ Timber Ridge Ranch and Winery http://www.timberridgeiowa.com/index.html The old Timber Ridge Site with more trail info. http://www.peelout.net/ Hope to See you there!

I think the tell-tale monitor is the small car digram that shows you which door is open... the Pullout Shade (Cargo cover) shouldn't be too hard to find... you just have to convince someone to sell one... Even if you get a "sprung" one that's unrolled, the ea81 style is easily re-rolled and re-set....

nice. I like the trunk too! the Brat's fender trimming is almost what I had to do for real

those are not rain gutter towers... the look more like the style that fit early 90's style cars... where you need a specific clip for each vehicle... (on Yakima's at least) this is the thule mount you would need...

shouldn't be an issue, other than will tend to make it push around a curve... which could be interesting for the person driving the tow rig... towing with a tow bar is fine for the old PT 4wds. just be sure to have in Front wheel drive (2wd) mode, and Neutral. you can tow cross-country this way if you want... But make sure it's attached to the soob properly. I have a towbar that I use that i bolt through the tow hooks...

correct, you have to pull the bar out slowly and rotate it, but I would never clock one again. while it will give you some lift, it alsomakes it stiffer and if you haul stuff or you wheel hard, it will end up fatiguing the bar and it will eventually fail. I've had 2 Brats and one wagon with failed bars...

the sti pump just has a 1mm larger bore for a bit more flow. the FujiBond is the Subaru name for their silicone sealant recommended for the oil pump

I did not replace myself, but took it to the shop (Bud's Auto Service) in the town where I live. the main mechanic there has a Forester too. We were heading out of town for vacation, so we ended up taking the Baja instead of the Forester, and left it with them. I sourced the pump, seals and FujiBond from RetroRoo. On the flip side, taking the Baja on vacation was a great choice. with the SnugLid and tailgate, it was great for hauling luggage and loading/unloading stuff, and using as a seat when cleaning up stuff when leaving the beach... Plus, I could actually straighten my right leg all the way out occasionally so I didn't feel light my knee was going to explode... No issues at all with it... I thought I had a suspension problem, but it turns out the rattling was from the jack popping loose when I hit some rougher roads..

Was the pump itself. The screws holding the back plate on had backed out and loosened the plate up enough so the pump was creating too much pressure at the seal. It now has an sti pump in it....

I still think the Robin Egg blue would've been nice for the scoop

woohoo! nice! yes, that's a nice rear bumper. the original one reminds me of the SmittyBuilt one that was on the 4-runner I got my rear axle out of.... yes, after seeing the "tent" in person, it is really nice! I need to look into where to get one locally....

+1 ^