mcbrat

since you are that far along, the USRM one linked in the previous thread won't really help you. to do it by the manual, you have to completely remove the dash. there are screws on either side of the firewall that need to be released, as well as the screws at the base of the windshield. possibly more. don't remember for sure... anyway, after the dash is completely out, then you have to pull out the whole heater control black box. then you can split that box open and get the core out...

I'm at 76 for now

I need to get out my brochures and figure out exactly what models they are for....

oh yes, lots of hammering needed there... will help with the camber to, as the block can slide over more....

Shawn, you can make you camber a lot better by grinding off the areas here in red... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/80s/diagrams/strutlift.jpg you have to take a bunch off, and keep test fitting. it really does help...

anybody looking for NOS FF-1 tail lights?

how soon you wanting them? my "decal station" is buried right now for the holidays. but I'll see if I can do that with my font program... the Brat one I hha was scanned from an original aftermarket decal but I only had one side, so I had to manualy do the other side. it's a straight image, no changing fonts, etc... what I'd like to do, is be able to load up a design with varying fonts, but I haven't had much time to look around for something that would do that....

yeah, that's Ed. he does the "true" reproduction stripes, where I just have the lettering. the equipment needed to be able to cut the stripes that size is quite costly.... I've gotten 3 sets from him...

also, the heat riser tube fitting is farther back on ea82 Y pipes....

I've had that happen before, and actually trimmed a bit off of the pipes so they fit....

bump

i think there are 2 screws... you can see both the holes in the first pic.... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/USRM2/mick-usrm/heatercore/heatercore.html one is way down in left hand corner....

evey single soob I've had has had "custom" exhaust. some was just custom from cat back. some full custom. yes, full duals without the"balancer/collector/crossover" will rob you of low end. I went to a custom shop that specializes in exhaust, mostly of muscle cars. they suggest keeping the Y pipe config. On my 82 Brat, I've got 1.75" Y, then 2.25" all the way back with a magnaflow muffler. it's a bit loud, but works good with a built motor and weber or holley carb. I had one with 2" Y, and I think it lost some there. the biggest thing is to get a litter better flow from your muffler and cat (if it's still there) I'd stick with 1.75" for the Y, then either 1.75 or 2" for the rest, with a decent muffler. my 87 brat has stock Y pipe, then a glass pack just to the rear of where the "resonator" would be, then a short pipe that dumps the exhaust out to the ground under the bed.... it's a bit loud for my liking, but runs really good. of course, that could just be the 59k miles on it

this is from the 80's Subarus "Helpful Diagrams" page... uses the DPDT switch identified in the link further up in this thread.... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/80s/diagrams/centerlamp-wire.jpg wiring it up this way makes it always available, and much easier than tying into existing circuitry... also, the 80-81 centerlamps would come on with highs or lows. only 82 were tied to highs only.

I like that they stay on for 3 of my 5... (through 82, they weren't tied to the ignition.....)

yep, got it tonight. will get your pics scanned early next week, and get your donor status in. thanks, Mick

53mm isn't it?

here's my list.... 88xt6joe ChrisV (previously of SD) Gessner17 MagnificentSubaru Scott in Bellingham ShadyIrishmen (or Albie) Subarweenie archemitis bajavwnsoobnut bluesoob bratsco bratsrus1 chef tim dave valiant denniss desertsoob dr.rx edrach elcaminokurt evervictorious (GeofferyR) eyesore flyboy garner glcraiggt hondasucks humble_nuto53 jibs joncyd mikew milesfox morganm mudisfun mudrat mykeystoy myossfeece noahdl88 nomica northguy northwet numbchux nvzeno oneeye ozified qman ratty2soob redlance richierich scoobywagon shawnw snowman snowstormer soobmater sparkster054 subarujunkie subarutex suberdave subiegal subieman subiemch85 subynut svengouli syonyk syrinx szigi tailgatewagon the sucker king timhansen todds turbone uniqueTII urabus mom vickaroo wagons only xsnrg zap zefy new additions -------------- 7point62fmj atinder more additions --------------- Jerry DeMoss Caboobaroo BlownBimer LegacyMax CCRInc (Rick & Emily) TomsBrats Jeffast123 more additions ---------------- king bob dole mikeshoup the_dude_abides bheinen74 bluebaru bpm4x4

not yet....

ea81(Gen2) based bodies do not use struts with replaceable cartiges. the gen1 4WD's did though Ithink... there's a couple of folks on here that have modified the ea81 struts to take a cartridge though...

I'm off I-80 in Des Moines.....

has it been converted to electric choke, or is it still water choke?

cool. I ran a Holley 600 cfm for a while on my lifted Brat.... great pics!

yes the true dual carbed engine had different heads, a different cam, and the valves were opposite, but the intake port on the top of the heads was the same as regular ea81, and carbed ea82 (and spfi). the true ea81 dual carb set-up will bolt to either version of the ea81. the one I had was on a regular ea81 engine.....

no, the piece(s) I cut out were in bad shape so I just tossed it. the core went in pretty snuggly, so there wasn't much room for leakage.... I may have taped up some stuff, but I doubt it... never had any problems with it.