mcbrat

yeah, I wish I could have kept it, but I had to re-adjust some priorities.....

here's some pics.... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=8523&sort=1&cat=530&page=1 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=8518&sort=1&cat=530&page=1 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=8520&sort=1&cat=530&page=1

well, I blocked off both ASV's and backfiring is gone. cleaned the dash and door panels. (first round) took the bad rear axle off, and it seems I have a bad rear bearing on the drivers side. no movement, but lots of noise like the bearings are dry... I have the rear bearing socket, but the piece that screws out has a dent in it, so I may just replace the whole arm.... and it needs new shocks....

and here's a pic. you can see the filter on the right side, where I tied it up next to the spare tire area. and you can see the hose from the drivers side one, where it goes over towards the PCV valve... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/80s/mick/gallery/holley5.jpg

see post #66 on this thread.... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?p=338629&highlight=valve+cover+pcv#post338629

that's actually what he's getting. bolts right up to a EA81. the stock throttle cable will work, as it rotates a bar that in turn activates the throttles on both carbs. the manifold has a EGR port/valve, just like the single carb manifold. the PCV valve is centered on the back of it though.... the dual carb set-up is manual choke. there are a few vac lines to hook up, but I haven't found a decent diagram for it.

I think Ram Engines can sell you heavier springs... BTW, I found a better box than my first choice, and your box is going out today. I will send you the tracking number this afternoon.

if it's the original motor, it will be a 1600 (EA71). if you look to the left of the distributor, you will see the engine designation on the block. EA71. you would also have single range 4WD.

exactly. it's just these type of mainstream media polls that by wording the questions just so, they don't allow any middle ground.

actually, they made 'em just like that long ago.... my first Brat had the mounts stuff for it. there was actually a metal channel shaped like "_C" on the roof between the chrome trim and the t-tops. the tonneau cover would have had a metal rod sewn into the leading edge, and it slid into the channel. this was done to keep the elements out, and not have the wind rip off your cover. the sides and rear of the cover then were attache with button snaps that were actually drilled into the body, just past the chrome trim(better sealing). But you could do them on the trim as well.

I'm gonna replace the left door and fender, and maybe pop out the roof a bit. probably just gonna sell it. I drove it to work today only backfired a couple of times it's definitely a off-road worthy project. there's a couple of small holes in the rockers, but otherwise they are solid. all the frame rails are good too. should look a lot better on the inside once I get it cleaned. huge layer of dust/dirt on everything.... seats are really good too. no cracks in dash... fuel gauge doesn't work. the sender unit out back is new too....

tonight I got around to putting on new disty cap and rotor, new plug wires. had previously put in new plugs. oh yeah. the plug wires were still the original wires!!!! had 1986 printed on them... 19 years old, and 59k miles. sounds like it was time for some new ones also replaced the fuel filter. it had been running very badly, and I could only go to about half throttle. the fuel filter was actually stained brown/orange, so it was pretty old. now, it's got tons more power and no hesitation. the idle seems to be set pretty low now I need to set the idle, and check the timing yet. power washed it tonight too, and the dented roof does not leak at the t-tops. it backfires after your on the throttle heavy, then let off quickly. one loud shot wonder how many neighbors I woke up think I need to do the quarter in the ASV trick.... I also put new seals between the brake fluid res. and the master cylinder. looks like somebody tried replacing them before, but didn't install them in the proper order/method, and ripped on of the seals... now to the cleaning, and body panel replacement

I've put rear discs on 2 different lifted rigs, and had 'em on 2 other lifted rigs, and loved them. much better stopping than with the drums.... IMHO

Todd is a Moderator on here now (Subaru3). you should be able to PM or e-mail him through his ID too.....

anybody have a rear disk brake set-up handy that they can check the length and pitch of the bolts that hold the caliper to the backing plate?

here you go... have not lost a turn signal since I put this on, and I've used it to carve out the side of a bank to create a ledge for MorganM's tire to go with the 5" lift, the winch plate is right in line with the skid plate, so it really didn't lose much for approach angle. the main "C channel" is actually cut from a beam off a John Deere Combine Corn Picking Head my next add-on is gonna be tubes for a new skid plate frame, and loop up for a winch protector of sorts.... it's also tied into the tow hooks, which made it a lot sturdier (but a pain to install!!!!)

you're not the only one I can't wait to see the finished product

185/80R13 will be your tallest available tire for stock wheels. to go larger, you will need to get some 14" or 15" puegeot 505 wheels, or find some rare Subaru 14" wheels... or you can drill some chevy wheels... here's the "Wheels" page for our lovely 4x140 bolt pattern. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/80s/wheels2/wheels.html

I was able to get some through a dealer, but that was about 5 years ago....

I think you'd need more than a cup over the sender unit.... I'll have to get a pic of my sender unit. it got a dent and the head piece was bent. it did start to leak oil, but nothing terminal ... that time...

yes, the ea81 in early DL 4WDs had single range 4WD. not sure if all ea81 DL's had single range though....

yeah, but that would have prevented an incident for me in Sept. where I slid back into a drop, and jammed dirt 8" deep into my tail pipe... I now have an additional recovery tool in my box. a 12" long stick

I'd like to see that too

the housings and carriers are all the same (except for the slight grinding in the bottom of the housings that came with the LSD rears. Turbone is referring to the ever popular LSD swap, that pulls the LSD carrier out of it's 3.70 diff, and puts it into a 3.90 housing with 3.90 pinion and ring gear. the grinding is needed for the installation of the LSD carrier to fit through the rear of the housing. all ea81, ea82, late ea71, and the 91-93 Turbo Legacy rear diffs are interchangeable (provided you match the gears in your trans )

I like the look http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/80s/mick/SSPORT2.JPG here's how I did mine... I got some square tubing at (insert favorite hardware/home improvement store here: Menards/Lowes/Home Depot/Ace Hardware). mounted all the lights to it, then mounted the bar to my rollbar light tabs... http://usmb.net/gallery/album91/PDC_0339 http://usmb.net/gallery/album109/PDC_0625 it works great... and if you happen to have your rig on a trailer and you drive under a low clearance area ... say like a motel/hotel drive through area, and hit said overhang, only the 2 bolts holding the light bar to the roll bar snap off... $2.00 of new bolts at the Port Townsend Hardware store, and you're back in business