mcbrat

I've got a 16' trailer that I pull with a '96 GMC Yukon 4WD, that has upgraded gears to 3.73, extra trans cooler, and locking rear diff and skid plates having driven twice from IA to WA in my old '82 MountainGrizzly Wagon, this past year was a nice change for comfort, power, and speed to be able to take the Yukon/trailer out have used dollys and flat towing to get a new purchase home before too...

the bell housing bolt patterns are the same. the grinding is needed if you are going to mate a 5 speed D/R to an ea81 bell housing, as the flywheel has a bigger backside profile, and needs to have the bottom edges of the ea81 bell housing adjusted a bit. you will need to use the flywheel/pressure plate/clutch that goes with the 4 speed.

yes, as that's my pic, but I've seen the 14" alloys with the above listed "steel" lug nuts...

you need a ball seat 12x1.25 there are different ball seats (like 40 and 60 deg. I think, but not sure which ones are proper.) also, I thought the pug 14" alloys could use the soob lugs, it was just the 15's that needed the ball seat lugs??????

so I took a spare one apart, and cleaned, and replaced an O ring. I plugged the spare in, and it seemed to work okay.... the vac diaphram piece was still okay... added a little grease to the edge for a better seal, and hopefully keep it soft a bit longer...

his bumper only had one D-Ring on it..... Glad to see you got the LSD converted over

actually, I'd guess that downshifting would just make it worse? well, if it's acting the same as my 87 is, it would. could only use about half throttle.

I used the following weber adapter 2 weber 1/2" spacers standard 2->4 barrel adapter that I used a cone grinder to "widen" the 2 bbl holes inward to match the weber patter which is a bit smaller. it's much nicer to drive around town now with a weber on it.

my 82 Brat can do some awesome things, and It impressed lots of folks at the event I was just at in September. All there were very capable rigs. it just depends on what kind of wheeling you like to do, and what kind of funds you can throw at your toy. there were places I could fit that bigger rigs could not, and most of the time, there were climbs I could not do because of the steepness of the hills and lack of gearing, and the carb. soome I had to get a run at and/or wait for the crawlers in front of me to get far enough ahead so I could blast up the hill. where the soob really shined was on the muddy trails. the locked rear was priceless, and the 27x8.50s dug in nicely for the most part. I ended up with a nicely crunched right fender, and 5 other dents. I'm glad I a full skid plate on the front, but I still bent and dented my oil sender unit. the body lift on the front of the soobs really exposes the engine (well, at least my 5" lift does) more than I like. and with a built engine, I want to protect that investment more, so I'm gonna do something different for the skid plate... when I look at upgrades I want to do to the Brat to make it more capable for the trails around here, it makes more fiscal sense to just buy something else (non-soob) but I like having the Brat. so we shall see what happens....

I've had good luck with the sylvania cool blues.

390 should work good. I just pulled a 600 of my 82 Brat. it was a blast, but I need to keep the revs high.... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/80s/mick/gallery/holley1.jpg http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/80s/mick/gallery/holley2.jpg http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/80s/mick/gallery/holley3.jpg http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/80s/mick/gallery/holley4.jpg http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/80s/mick/gallery/holley5.jpg

you have to remove the 3 bolts that hold the plate to the trailing arm as well. those are the ones that were a pain to get back in. I believe people that do it the proper way, use a jack to line them up, instead of brute arm force

that's what I did. just pull the plate off, and move it 1 notch only (down, towards the rear). it will give you a couple inches of lift, and make it a lot stiffer. I don't think I could have gotten it back together if I would have moved it 2 notches.

if you decide to bore, I have a new set of .030 over ea71 pistons with rings. Repco brand. $70 shipped.

let's see. Des Moines, IA as home base. Minneapolis, MN (Ham Lake) (4 hours away) to get my first Brat with blown HG for $100. towed back with mini-van, after overheating the minivan, and needing a new radiator... Lincoln, NE (3 hours away) 2 Brats. 1st trip to get parts brat, flat towed with minivan. 2nd trip to get 2nd Brat from aformentioned trip. drove it back with no rear suspension (torsion bars broken) $350 both Ames, IA only about 30 miles. picked up 2 soobs. 1st trip used a tow dolly to get 86 XT 4wd Turbo for $100. 2nd trip to get 85 GL 4wd Wagon with broken timing belt. $100 Cambridge, IA about 25 miles. picked up 82 DL wagon with 250k, no brakes, and a bunch of spare parts. $99. drove it home Decorah, IA about 5.5 hours from my house, but was only 1.5 hours away when I went to look at a 85 4wd wagon. passed on this one, as it had been used as a chicken coop Sioux Falls, SD (5 hours away) went to pick up a turbo brat. tried flat towing, but front frame rail piece pulled off because of prior accident. had to return 2 weeks later with a tow dolly. Renner, SD (5.5 hours away) Visited Chef Tim, and trailered back a 87 4WD lifted wagon anything further away, I've had shipped. Turbo Brat from MD Ski Wagon from ID 82 Brat from AZ via WI seller

good to see you back in a soob Geoffrey

is there something I can replace this with. I think mine is bad. choke is not working, but vac diaphrams for choke work fine. I vac tested them. all vac hoses look okay, and are hooked up in stock locations (1980 1600 4wd wagon) except the timing retard which is plugged because I'm running ea81 disty and alt. this is an absolute pain to start when it's cold....

yep. lots of people have done it. the write up is here under LSD Swap. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/USRM2/subrepair.htm

the ea81T's had 'em.....

yes, since your rear lift extends your axles becausee diff stays high. miine too, since I clocked the torsion bars. I usually jack up the whole rear end so I can spin it to get at the pins easier.

1. Just take the axle out. 2. with one axle out, you still don't want to put it in 4WD on the pavement, as you'll still be locked front to back, and have binding problems. i wouldn't want to go into too nasty of mud without it. if you get the side with the axle in the air, and one of the fronts in the air, it'll be just like you had an open diff. except you'll never get traction from the wheel without the axle....

I just replaced the whole back window

yes, that was with the Holley, and most of the time was WOT. I'm back to he weber now though. there was no crawling, or finessing with the Holley. it wanted WOT. the 5 new body dents, and many bends in my skid plate are evidence of that

Looks like my previous 3 day wheeling weekend totalled about 22 miles. and used about 2/3 a tank of gas

does anybody have the length of an EA82 leading rod? (to the front control arm) how does it compare to a EA81 rod in length?