mcbrat

http://www.indysworld.com/80s/brats/cbrat/cbrat.html that's just the pics. I think I have the whole article, where the owner explained what was done...

can't you measure the ones you took out?

first two times the front crank seal was replaced under warranty... '09 Forester XT not exactly thrilled...

you should just sell me your Brat cheap, then you no longer have the key problem...

no, looks like that will be later this summer. got a deck to build, and save up money for new struts all around to do at the same time as the lift...

I would think that since you made the hybrid axles with Legacy cups, then your next weekend point will be your axle stubs...

I have a 4" lift kit for sale... just needs bolts and steering extension.

Mine was made by FW Mini-Cars I was able to pick up new brake, clutch, wheels, and sprocket, plus a seat at Northern Tool http://www.northerntool.com/ but any go-kart type place could have stuff... you need a low back seat. I have a higher back one and I can't get the body on... I had to make custom brackets for the seats... http://www.thejumpingfrog.com/?page=shop/flypage&product_id=803007CLSN_461=133589299146148b535f6f281e822b03

and get a pre-formed waterpump top to heater hose. that kink in yours will not work.

hmmm. probably will leak and re-corrode the bolts.... pull intake back off and you'll have 2 choices: 1. helicoil that hole 2. tap to just slightly larger and run a slightly bigger drill bit through the matching hole in intake...

have been post some photos of the engine in Guido now... has been stripped down to bare minimum needed to run weber...

I'd wait for the weber. then you ditch all the TVVs, the black hardlines, etc... clean and simple. did the AC work on it?

and if you are putting the weber on, you only need 3-5 vac lines. brake booster to manifold disty vac advance to carb heater control vac line(s) to manifold EGR valve if using it Ben's EA81 in SPFI body just has 3...

a standard ea81 EGR valve will fit on there... do you still have the EGR valve off your original manifold?

Tom, you got rid of all that stuff, so you need to use your original EGR valve then... or use a block plate...

what's up with the EGR valve with the coolant pipe? that's not anything I've ever seen before....

if running a weber, you don't need either of those (black or yellowish) vac valves...

what do the rails look like on the inside? all the different Gen2 shells' I've had, all used J hooks to grab the loops on the inside of the bed. there is usually a hole through the inside edge of the rail that sits on the bed trim. and for added strength, either flat steel/aluminum bar bent to shape of bed that lays on top of the rail and has the same bolt holes to go through...

well, I think its the part on the front of the core support. the main core support with headlight cutouts, and this piecs are assembled together it looks like from the parts book. and yes, it's different because it's the 2wd part... probably similar, but I'm guessing the same general shape... depending on how bad yours is, this one could probably be cut and welded in to clean stuff up nicely... especially if you have to cut and fab up the lower core support....

NOS front skirt 2wd though... http://www.ebay.com/itm/VINTAGE-SUBARU-NOS-FRONT-SKIRT-PART-752420321-NEW-PART-/120836881654?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c22707cf6&vxp=mtr

I've had similar issues and had to clean and relube the caliper slides...

woohoo! what parts did they leave out?!?

the stock air box is roughly the height of the short filter... it might work, depending on how you fab up the intake. I put a weber on mtngrizzly way back in 2000, and It was my daily driver many winters without issues... though with your 3 vehicles, your ski wagon will have the coldest cabin temps unless you are putting in a new heater core... and even then, it's still no heat wave unless you're doing a good distance...