mcbrat

well, since there's no muffler on it it hard to tell if it's leaking at the Y pipe junction... but based on the way it flexes, I'd say it's rusted through... you're gonna need a new stock Y pipe anyway. it's mounted enough to get it home I'll be home all day Saturday for pickup I'll be clearing the garage for the city wide garage sale day.... I even tucked up your wiring under the dash and reconnected your CB. the trans didn't have any knobs on it when I got it (already gone...) so I put on the one I pulled off the SS, and for the D/R selector, I tapped another spare t-case knob I had from something else...

Fuel pump permanent wiring in Temp gauge wiring in choke wiring in battery hold downs in hood shut with ac comp in spare area readt to have the r12 removed. It definitely is gonna need exhaust!

yep. larger one is main feeder line, smaller one below is return, and the one that wraps around the tank is the vent. not sure on the valve...

maybe I'll bust apart an ea81 cluster and duct tape the oil pressure and tach to your dash then it will be a GL I'm going to add a kill switch to your dash for the grounding of the fuel pump relay (used to happen through the ECU, but since thats gone now....)

oh, and the alternator Denis put in previously is putting out 14.1v so it's good.

depending on what year tank you ended up with the fittings can be different. if there's a larger fitting or the lowest one, that's the main line. the other ones would be the return line and the vent line... which goes around the side and up to the canister in the body... got a decent pic of the fittings?

It's Alive! http://www.facebook.com/v/434747213205345 still to complete... choke wiring Temp gauge wiring evacuate AC system and remove I was gonna wire in the tach, but it's a DL so no tach... might need to get an oil pressure switch for the dummy light too, as the pump has the sender for a GL Oil Pressure Gauge....

really close now!

jackmans are pretty much flat side to side... and thicker steel... here's a comparison of the ea81/ea82 wagon wheels.

the starter moved for the first time in a while... just a half second though to make sure the IGN switch was working

sounds about right to me... 1. don't compare mileage with a lighter car... 2. don't compare mileage with OR/WA folks I thought someone said their fuel was infused with O2 for better burning/emissions, but I don't know whats true with that... however every time I've driven out to WA for vacations, I always got better mileage out there as compared to back home in Iowa...

yeah. after I scrambled to get the Forester and Baja in the garage (after hearing quarter sized hail in DSM) , I had some time to study the FSM and find the alt as I had taken that off some time ago... the storm didn't seem too bad here at least but I don't hear lots of weather... this house is actually insulated and helps deaden the sounds. the old house had nearly zilch for insulation...

I've got 2 of the 14" Jackmans. Paired up with 2 14" pug steels.

found the check connector for the fuel pump and ready to get the coil and disty hooked up...

it's getting harder to get 14" tires with offroad bit unless you go with swampers. I'd go with 15's...

I have a few spares... I didn't think the wagon body had exactly the same curvature though...

and again... a little more completed.

yes, please define what you'll be doing in the mud. if you want to run mud drags, you need high power and huge tires for clearance... mud racing + big tires + STi engine + Soob axles = frequently blown axles if you are wanting muddy trail riding then EJ22 should suffice... heck even your stock rig would be fine becasue you'd rather have high speed wheel spin to clean out the tires than low speed spin with better gearing.... I have hear of hot turbos shattering when suddenly immersed in cold water/mud, but it was on a different vehicle. the soob turbos are pretty well protected most of the time...

then your '81 is a DL or STD with a smaller instrument cluster, but the physical "dash" is still the same length with the same mounting locations...

a little more completed.

thought I'd add this here... I found this recording of the slap while researching my noise mine sounds just like this, but not as loud... http://www.butkus.org/subaru/piston_slap/subaru_piston_slap.htm

25" diameter is about the the largest you can go with a bit of cutting and bashing. any larger and you'll need to lift or really cut and bash a lot more... 195/65R15 = 25 205/60R15 = 24.7 and what style are you looking to put on? I still have my mis-matched set of 14's for sale... as far as redrilling, technically you should use a chamfer bit to put the right angle on the seat. just depends on how proper you want to be...

https://www.iaai.com/Vehicles/VehicleDetails.aspx?auctionID=0&itemID=12504903&RowNumber=9# I think this is only the second one I've seen....

I'm gonna make a wild guess and say your rear adjustment bolt is rusted tight... but since you have the assembly out, you should try and clean up the threads... I believe tightening it (clockwise) raises the ride height. for the fronts, clean the threads on the adjusters really good too. yes, adjust both bolts evenly, and the same from side to side. use lots of penetrating oil.... use a flashlight, and count the visible threads... to make sure you are even... or measure.