mcbrat

I've got a place for Pat to stay when he gets here. He'll be in the "guest suite" surrounded by lots of subaru stuff Ask Zap....

yes, they are nasty here. today the side streets were the worst they've been this year. main roads were okay though. lots of freezing rain. high of 26 or so today... I did see on the weather channel this morning that there were lots of mtn passes closed, etc... out that way... thanks for the update.... we'll keep the light on for you Pat

I need the dimensions for the rear window to help me make a hatch decal like this one... not exactly the same, but close. I'll have to break up the fender piece with a logo or "Hatchback" wording... and they will be one solid color too...

any news on location?

yep. Brumby was the Australian name for the Brat (US, Canada). In Europe, it was the MV, and later took the name Brat as well.

did you move your old disty over to the new engine? if so, it could be off a tooth or so.....

There's mine....

correct. actually these will fit: 83-84 4x4 Wagon 83-89 4x4 Hatch 84-87 Brat (possibly 83 but I just parted one that only had 86k original miles, and it had the smaller clutch)... If you put in the 2wd, you will need the use the flywheel/clutch set-up from it.

do you have the motor mounts unbolted? should be able to jack up the motor enough to clear the crossmember, and pull the engine forward (provided you have the rad out already)

I like mine... I'm running with a 2.25" exhaust (1.75" at heads, then Y'd to the 2.25". no cat, and a Magnaflow muffler. with the snorkel on, I can't get enough air to the engine at high RPMs. I've had better luck with this used weber off a Opel Manta, than I did with a new one, but the new one was my first weber...

I only had the left rear axle in, so when I made a right turn, the rear wanted to slide out every time... left turns were okay though.... and had to be slow on the go pedal too, or it pulled to the right instantly.... if I don't get my wagon done soon, it's back to LSD for the winter.....

yep, no problems, though I will say I hate it in the snowy streets. I drove my brat the last 3 days, and with only the left rear axle, you have to adjust to the way it handles on the icy/snowy streets... got stuck trying to get into my flat driveway.... (I didn't want to jack the brat up on a icy driveway with snow on top just to get the axle in... since my wagon is still engine-less) we got 13.5" over the last 2 days.

lwb???

you'd need to put a top coat on the bondo after it was done, as bondo likes to soak up any liquids it can. good idea!

Castana Trailride in Iowa, Sept 23-25, 2005 Held at Timber Ridge Ranch, Located between Mapleton, IA and Castana, IA in the beautiful Loess Hills, about a half hour from where MW2 was held.... here's the official entry form. http://www.ci4wi.org/ClubFiles/Castana2005.pdf here's the thread from last years ride http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=20394&highlight=castana MorganM and I were the only Subarus there.... a stock rig could do lots of the trails, but lifted would be better....

I don't think what you found is what you are looking for.... the motor is black, and about fist size... to get to the blower motor, you need to do the following (and probably more) on the passenger side: remove tray under glove box remove glove box remove kick panel trim piece see big black box that connects into the AC condenser coils? it's on the back side of it. you need to remove that whole black box unit to get to the blower motor. replacement ones are usually around $60 at NAPA...

but with the size of the holes/opening you speak of, you'd have to have the engine totally submersed to have them leak to the point of causing problems, and if you are in water that deep, you have more problems the disty is vented on the bottom for one, your clutch would be soaked, and you'd have waterlogged most of your wiring and interior by that point......

ditton on the tranny mounts. I went through a axle in about 250 miles once because of it, and having my susp cranked all the way up..... hub may also be worn, but shouldn't cause joint failure.....

abundance: depends on which side of my garage you are on

There have been a few more additions to the articles, plus a little editing on the ECU Codes article.... Be sure to check there for common repairs, etc..... and if you've got something to contribute, please do.....

inside cling type or exterior vinyl ones? (see bottom of sig...)

take the pin punch you use to push the axle roll pins out, and insert it through the timing hole into one of the holes in the flywheel....

Get a ea81

what you experienced was correct. with the axle out, the hub/rotor assembly will be held in place by the calipers and the fact that it fits over the knuckle. to do your front bearings: (for each side) remove axle unbolt calipers and pull off the rotor/knuckle pull rotor/hub assembly off disconnect knuckle from steering remove knuckle from the strut if you remove the old bearings, be sure to hit from the inside out because of the ridge... here is a simplified view....

pics are always accepted