mcbrat

mine did EXACTLY the same thing when I lifted my 86. both captive nuts broke loose. I used a dremel cut-off wheel to cut the bolts, then I used a long drill bit, and using the bolt hole as a guide drilled up through the bed. then I got a 3/4" bit and drilled out both holes in the bed. 3/4" made 'em big enough to drop in the bolt from above, then I got nuts to put on the bottom end. there was enough of the old weld material still there to hold the head of the bolt for tightening too. then I just went to my local hardware store and got some 3/4" plastic hole caps and snapped them in. that's been 4 years ago now I think...

here's an awesome thread on this very subject. found with search items (Weber find) http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=14373&highlight=weber+find

be sure to keep this thread updated. always a possibilty I could show

true. the flywheel will only go one one way, and I believe all ea82/ea82T flywheels will interchange.

ahhh. not a problem then.... next week, I will come up with a few designs and get back to you.....

if you click the homepage link above, then click on the 80's subarus link, the wheels page is in there.... also, I think I need to weigh my 14" alloys. they are super light....

I went off of the data for replacement stock shocks for extended length and compressed length, and looked through the Rancho catalog after determining what I wanted for my 82 Brat. it's got the 3" body, and the clocked torsion bar for another 2" in height. I chose one that was close for the mounts, and gave me 1" further travel up and 1" further travel down. the part number I came up with is listed in the USRM - misc section under the 5" lift instructions. to stick with the stock specs, just add 4" to each length and try to find one that fits....

those would take quite a while to replicate, and be difficult in 2 color... to remove the old ones, I use a 3M product called a stripe remover. it a big eraser looking wheel on a bit you put in a drill. you basically rub/heat the decal off into tiny pieces. and it doesn't damage the paint. takes a long time though.... (well, it did on my Brat as it's meant for pin stripes)

the ea81 studs are 11 x 126.5 x 39 they might work for the shorter ones

I just put a MSD coil in my 87 wagon. same as stock dimensions. I haven't run it yet, as I'm mid-project with the wagon right now.... I think usually, it's a hotter spark from the better aftermarket coils. making for less misfires under load...

I put a disty from a '83 Brat into a ea71 and timed it correctly....??? you don't use the external IGN control unit anymore. it's contained within the disty. yes, a ea71/earlier disty will work in an ea81, provided you use the external IGN unit that goes with the points disty.... but why? maybe even into a carbed ea82... not sure...

well, I didn't have power steering, so any little bump in the road made the 30's bounce all over.... never tried for a top speed, though ShawnW drove it on the interstate for a bit..... http://usmb.net/gallery/album93/tbnew2

I picked up my core from the rad shop, and found out they do gas tanks too, so now my 82's original gas tank (rust free Arizona) can go in and get all the varnish boiled out of it yay!

the early 504's use a special lug nut that had a oval shaped centering washer. the holes in the rim weren't tapered. the centering washer wedged between the center hole and the middle raised portion of the wheel to "center" itself. not sure if the later 504's did the same thing. here's the difference. if the rim looks like the 504 in this pic, you HAVE to use the special nuts or fab some of them up....

if you can get me a pic and dimensions of the original decals I can recreate them. I do have the 4WD kind that has split letters (lines through them) like these: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/Literature/brochures/1982-uk-2.jpg

I'm using a Accel SuperCoil without issues (the big quare block kind)

I also have a couple of spare '82 carriers if you want some to play with.....

if you just tacked on 2 extra cylinders on an ea82 , wouldn't it be easiest to just give it it's own port......

I expect it to go back with lots of rattles, as my method of extraction was far less than "by the book"... it was more of a "unbolt and pull, then see what's still attached" evening

the EA82 HG's were blown and Tim already had the engine out. I let him keep the motor, since I had the 86k ea81 just sitting around in my garage.... and I'm an EA81 guy anyway

I had 30's on a turbo brat that was lifted. highway was fine.... much better than a carbed with 30's

if any of you remember this post from January.... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=9555 Well anyway, I got it from Chef Tim, and have been working on making it my daily driver. I have done the following so far: resealed EA81 with 86k miles from a 83 Brat valves adjusted rebuilt a water choke weber 32/36 and installed it rebuilt disty from eBay new ea81 radiator ea81 radiator fan ea81 power steering pump (after this weekend) new clutch kit for the 5 speed different starter replace heater core (in progress) new MSD coil/wires replacement right rear tail light other stuff planned: RX black checkered front seats. RX checkered seatbelts Yakima Load Warrior Rack had it running last night, but had to keep on the gas. once the core swap is done, will need to check the timing...

man what a pain in the you know what! I got a core from John, and had it checked out. it's good. I got the old core out last night. it did not appear that the core had been leaking, but possibly just at the hose connection.... BUT it needed to come out anyway. the top of the core was covered in pine needles, and they were lodged into the fins as well..... tonight maybe I will start the re-assembly.....

one thing Scott (subarubrat) did, was to have a bushing/spacer made so that he could use the correct TOB on the smaller carrier.

sports wagon????? paypal would be the best way.....