mcbrat

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/80s/mick/mick-usrm/Strutsinrear/strut.html

Here's some shots of MikeW's hatch with a rear carrier. he used a swingout one from a jeep or something, and mounted it to the side of his hach (above and below the tail light) http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/offroad/wcss3/shawnw/wcss3%20008.jpg http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/offroad/wcss3/shawnw/wcss3%20012.jpg http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/offroad/wcss3/shawnw/wcss3%20009.jpg http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/offroad/wcss3/shawnw/wcss3%20039.jpg http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/offroad/wcss3/mickh/pic37.jpg

sounds like it's time to weld in some new metal supports up from the frame rail, and put the coilover rears from your wagon in....

bump

definitely axles. spare tail lights, turn signals, etc... for the trip home... since I drove the brat there last year, I was a little careful with it and I only broke out a front turn signal on my Brat. had an axle boot rip on the way there, but kept going with it that way. I'm trailering it there this year though with the urethane tranny/motor mounts, I don't think I'd like to drive it a long distance. would shake the innards out of me I think..... I'll have some spare nuts/bolts along, my axle tools, etc.... as well as tons of electrical stuff. I still have to get my welded diff in....

how big of a spare parts box you bringing ???

Welcome to the board!!!!! you'd have to fabricate an adjustable one, but as soon as you adjust it out to correct the camber, your gonna extend your axles a bit further putting lots more stress on the joints. or you could slot your strut mount holes and move the top of the strut inward. how extreme is the camber? are the strut tops facing the right way. if the 2WD end is facing forward instead of the 4WD end, the camber will be off like you speak of....

What you can't see below, is that there was a 'V' cut 2x6 wedged between the strut towers to keep them from collapsing in, and I tried to place some blocks under the frame rail below the drivers door, and the blocks just pushed through the floor. I had to use a long 2x6 on top of the blocks to hold it up while I parted it....

there are some wires that com from the column to a green connector, and I believe they are for the door dinger. disconnect the green connector and see what happens... ShawnW, isn't that what fixed your Brat that time?

1981 the Dual Range was introduced in 3 models, all with 1800 engine 81 Brat GL 81 4WD wagon GL 81 4WD hatchback GL the 1980 Parts Manual only shows 1 trans for the Brat. Pat, see if you can find any numbers on the trans. could be a different import like bajas wagon....

there's some trail pics here: http://www.peelout.net/trail_names.htm and some other satelite photos http://www.peelout.net/satelite_images.htm

the older 504's had a centering washer on the lug nut. you HAVE to uses those nuts with the wheels. (people generally avoid the 504's but htye will work as long as you have the nuts. they are hard to balance as well, because the centers aren't all open) the alloys have a wide base nut that you need to use as well, but you can also find aftermarket ones that will work. the steels use a standard acorn nut. I used soobie ones with pug steels for over 40k and no issues.

if you are looking for puegeot wheels, they need to be from a 504, 505, or 604 model. they can be had in 14", 15" and the dreaded 390mm sizes (you don't want these). be sure to check the tires to see what size they are. they are available in steels or alloys. there is a pug section on the wheels page. (click Homepage at the top, then go to 80s soobs, then 4x140 wheels)

I'm gonna make a wild guess that the torsion bar adjustment screw is rusted, and will not move with anything short of a sawzall I used to own the Brat he has......

none that will bolt right on... either put some ea82 rear coilovers on (with a little fab work) or find some Air ones, with a little more fab work.....

here's the place we'll be playing.... http://cairo.gis.iastate.edu/client.cgi?zoom=2&x0=260730&y0=4669267&layer=cir&action=zoomout&pwidth=600&pheight=600&x=297&y=276

Snowman, which address do you want them to go to.....???

please take a pic of the data plate..... how many headlights?

Zapar had it, and lifted it. I think that's the one he sold that went to LA, thenmaybe back to the PNW.

I thought the same thing, but it wasn't too short.... the ea82 clutch cable has a different mount for the pedal box... just use the Brat one....

Did you send in the registration form? I'm taking mine to my club meeting tonight.... I still need yank out the LSD....and put my welded diff in. otherwise that's it. it's pretty much done.... have added a few extra exterior things it looks nice now

bump. two weeks away....

yeah, I know, but my alt/VR was toast too, so I just changed everything

Jerry (Bratsrus1) did a bunch of testing on the actuating pressure of the rear drums/dics, and they were identical. he did this testing before doing the conversion on his Brat. no proportioning valve on a ea81 for sure.

remove Alt remove coil and IGN module cut the plug off the Ext VR, and use the wires to join the proper ones together as indicated in the first link below. (read the comments too) install int VR Alt Install the newer electronic disty, and be sure to use the newer disty's hold down plate. the ea71 distys had 2 vac lines attached. attach the one for advance to the disty, and plug the retard vac line. I studied up my wiring diagrams, and used the link below for reference for the alt/VR swap. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/article.php?a=14 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=20988