mcbrat

Very nice! I like the look of the UK style decal on that.... the black and light blue goes well together. (I actually have black replacement targas for my lt blue brat too)

I highly recommend the swap over to the 82+ electronic disty/coil/alt I put a new 83 coil, and a disty/alt from a 83 Brat into my '80 GL 4x4 wagon with 1600. it runs awesome now. I was hitting 80-85 today no problems, and it would hold the 80 up the hills that normaly I would have sunk down to 60-65 on.... and the swap is easy...

if you search for subaru on this site,some stuff comes up.... http://www.electrodyne.cc/

that's what mine is. they won't melt out.

I never took mine out when I had mine welded up?...

bump for more newbies

I don't think there is any difference in the mechanisms. the date is printed on a tag on the belts.. I've had 79's and 83's that only had slight cosmetic differences.....

the two dizzy wires should go to either side of the coil. not part of the harness at all. the 82 dizzy should have all the IGN stuff inside. nothing external.

Morgan, do you want me to bring along the reinforced diff hanger? Joe had wanted some wheels from me too.....

the brochures page starts in 68, since that's when they were introduced in the US. I don't think I've seen any older brochures....

if it only takes 20 seconds of running after a cold start to bubble the water out, then I'd say it's either a cracked head or blown headgasket. it's not going to overheat in 20 seconds. sounds like your exhaust is leaking into the coolant passage...

the gears aren't 1/1. the tallest ones are overdrives. Gear Ratios http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/80s/mick/gears.htm Swap Instructions http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/article.php?a=37 I followed the instructions and put a 5 spd D/R from a '89 SPFI wagon into my Brat. if you want to maintain the stock interior, Bratsrus (Jerry) makes a kit to make it all a bolt on deal.

Qman added a ea82 sway bar to his Beauty Brat he Rally-Xs... I believe he cut the ends a bit, then had to weld on the mounts for it...

you need to lower the trans crossmember/plates as well so that the engine drops down evenly. then be prepared to adjust the shifter/linkage too.

sounds like a plan I've been hitting some of the local boards around here too....

the soob lifts are really a hybrid lift anyway since it's a unibody. the "body lift" like the BYB lifts from http://www.ozified.com place a block between all the running gear/suspension/steering mount points to the unibody. if all blocks are kept the same the axle angles remain the same engine crossmember front strut tops (suspension lift with same ride quality) tranny crossmember radius rod plates steering linkage rear torsion bar mount/rear strut mount (suspension lift with same ride quality) rear diff hanger you can also get "suspension lift" by adding stiffer springs to the front or rear struts, or moving the torsion bar arm one tooth. these will provide a stiffer ride with the increased height, and will affect the CV angles. about 2" is the max susp lift, but you will be wearing out/replacing axles often. Even at 1" in the front, it puts a lot more wear on the CV's.

(I was just going to bump it up) camping is primitive. yes, bring your own TP. There is a "outhouse" on beams that gets moved around to the "next hole" that is dug The place has a diner type place that does a really good breakfast. I didn't partake last year though.... I can finally get my redbrat in to do some final touches on it... I will try and get a good route from the guys in my club.... I'm gonna be there Friday during the day sometime. no other confirmations yet... last year there were a few guys from Faribault that came down. one was a cop with a mostly stock red jeep.

[hijack] Tim, I'm still trying to figure out a good time to come up there as well.... is a weekend the best option? Mick [/hijack]

nice. also looks like somebody lost a wheel well splash/mud guard was that you Eric?

yep. I broke mine too. definitely coolant line. remove and connect the hoses.

well, I have ready 3 different versions of the RX side decals, and I just did a set of Tonka decals for a board member. if there is something in particular you are looking for, let me know.

yes, they will work as long as you have the centering lug nut/washer combo that came one them. there is a good pic of the wheel here, and "where" the centering washer/nut combo site.... scroll down for the pug section... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/80s/wheels2/wheels.html or the direct pic.... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/80s/wheels2/pugdiffs.jpg

Here's some good threads too.... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=20195&highlight=weber+jets http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=5425&highlight=air+correction http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=6019&highlight=air+correction http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=14560&highlight=air+correction http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=18336&highlight=weber+jets

I have a weber off a 1.9 litre Opel Manta, and it had 155's for both primaries, and like 165, 175 for the air correction jets. it's now currently running 140 primaries, because I was trying to dignose a problem, but I will be going back to the 155s. this is with a totally de-emmissioned vehicle with custom exhaust work, and a slightly worked intake.

I've gotten a ea81 remanned axle before with a 32mm nut.... very disturbing when my axle tools threads onto the shafts for the 36mm ones