mcbrat

yeah. Jerry (bratsrus1) did some testing of the actuating pressure, and it was the same for the rear ea81 drums as the rear disks, so nothing else had to change....

I just replaced a disty, and it was one tooth off. it ran, but pinged a lot, and didn't have it's normal power.

my wife went to the junkyard with me ONCE. She prefers not to go back

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amazing what one tooth can do runs much better, and lots better power now. my wagon is a happy camper again

well, I have the '83 disty in now though.... but I noticed it pinging horribly on the way home tonight. Disty was a tooth off, so I fixed that, and it runs much better now. hopefully it'll have a bit more power. a kid on a bike could have passed me today

I swapped out a 2 vac line ea71 disty for a single vac line ea81 disty. I have the vac line connected to the disty that helps it run the best, and the other is just plugged now. any body know what the best thing to do with it is...? it has some weird vac issues anyway (even before this swap) and runs rough until it warms up....

put me down for one.....

Got it running smoothly today. had to leave some vac hoses un-plugged. the 1600 disty had 2 vac lines, and the '83 only has the one... after driving my 82 with the custom exhaust, and finely tuned weber, this 1600 feels like a moped

took my '80 GL wagon with 1600 in it, and put in new coil, and a disty and int VR Alt from an '83 Brat got to remove the failed Ext VR, old coil, old disty, IGN module, and the totally decimated battery. also replaced the oil pump and front crank seal while I was at it. I used a NAPA front crank seal (Chicago Rawhide brand). it was basically metal, with rubber on the inside lip. what a pain to put in compared with the normal metal imbedded in rubber kind...... especially with the motor and rad still in place

I just put in a Valeo heavy Duty. I love it....

saeble, did you pop it into 4WD on your test run?

Dante, your decals were mailed out on Thursday or Wednesday, so be wathing for them

they are having a "crawl" competition, and are requiring 33's minimum. yeah, the soob unibody would take a beating from the logs.. lot different that having a solid frame under....

I met some people from this club in Western Iowa. They have a place only 7 acres big that they have built up into their play area... the pics are down a bit in this post... http://www.goodtime4wheelers.com/php/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=102&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=15

my desk paperweight has a S37:10 stamp on it

time for a weber

82 4wd and 2wd had 200mm clutches 83 Brat had 200mm clutch 83+ 4wd (other than 83 brat) had 225mm clutch 200mm = 7-7/8" 225mm = 8-7/8"

sorry, missed the Aus part....

you definitely need a 3.90 ratio if it's a 4 speed D/R... do you know what is wrong with your rear diff? if the ring gear and pinion are okay, then you could dis-assemble both diffs, and put the center of the 3.70 diff inot the 3.90 case using the 3.90 ring and pinion. similar to this conversion.... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/article.php?a=36

do your turn signal indicators bounce the voltmeter when on? I had an issue with the ACC feed to the fuse block, and it cause me to burn through 3 alts in 4 months. I cut the main feed for the ACC group , and used a relay triggered from the normal ACC feed, and used a wire direct from the battery to the relay to then power the ACC group on the panel

very nice!

cool!!!

Hooper has action shots of a Gen1 Brat, and there are a couple of Gen1's uses as vehicle "extras" in the "filming" of Hoopers movies....

yes, the outboard side has the splines that go into the knuckle/hub, and the tranny side is just the cup to fit onto the axle stub coming out of the tranny.... and yes, it was the yellow with the red stripe. Ed Dahl from Chicago made the Brat decals. (DahlEd@aol.com) yes, there was a little plate on the back of the tailgate that said "BRAT"