mcbrat

it was a custom fabrication job using the top off a chevy blazer. the last time I saw it it sold on eBay some time ago.... and it's a XT6...

check your transmission mounts. if there is too much side to side movement it will put undue stress on the axles....

seems we've recently had another influx of newbies, so thought I'd pop this to the top again, to help the newbies deal with their impending addiction

bump again

if you click the HOME link in the dark gray bar (that has your Welcome message in it) there are some links to pics of off-roaders, and other soob info. also, check out the photos links. there are tons of pictures in there of off-roading, and different shows, etc.....

here's a good diagram for doing the wiring with the DPDT switch....

for carb models, I use some "hose pliers" they are orange, and squeeze the lines to stop the flow (without damaging them). they have a "stop" piece on them that allows them to be locked into the closed position. before getting these, I always used a vice grips very carefully to stop the flow.....

at first glance I thought they were Archemitis' wheels

should be an 82 DL/GL, or a 83 DL for some good reading go here and look at the Brat Encyclopedia under the Literature column http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/brats/brats.html

there's a smaller pic on the wheels page in the 13" aftermarket alloys section, with the Label: CSA Tri-spoke.

in my car when I'm driving....

John, actually, I need to email you about a few things. I've finally gotten some cardboard that will let me pack the louvers okay....

bump. edited title once I got the motor in, and pressure plate torqued down all the way, the ea81 cable was fine, (plus the ea82 has a totally different mounting system under the dash.....

the wiring/connectors are different.

5 speed conversion for 82 brat okay, trans is in place with the fresh mounts. I put in a new ea81 clutch cable (same length as old one) and it appears to be too short! the trans is a '89 D/R. thoughts?

update: I've got 4 switches on this trans....

I should probably clarify. going from ea81 4 speed D/R to ea82 5 speed D/R

the 5 is out of a later 80's SPFI wagon. I got it from Archemitis. the 4 is the stock 82 Brat trans with the 200 mm clutch disc and flywheel, and smaller throwout bearing. the electrical connectors, tranny mount/brackets, and a few nut/bolts were used from the 4 to go on the 5... then it's off to the scrap heap for the 4...

anybody have a wiring diagram for 88 (I think) D/R 5 speed connectors. there are 4 wires coming off the 4 speed (from 2 switches), and 6 wires from 3 devices on the 5 speed... my searching found something on a nuetral indicator switch in the SPFI D/R tranny... but thats it.... any thoughts?

and if you don't want to spend the time at a junkyard trying to find the right pully/spacer, you can take it to an auto electric shop. there's a guy near me, who I've taken in an xt6 alt, and for $20 he orders and outs on brand new spacer and pulley.

yeah, those keys fit into the synchros (to help hold them in?) mine grinds into 3rd as well (before the keys) I'm guessing the thrashing around in the mud, and the 400 miles with it totally floored on the highway there and back shook the others loose

RE: my '82 Grizzly Brat... so, about a week before the midwest meet, I changed my gear oil and this came out on the drain plug.... I figure this can't be good, so I figure if it was on the plug already (along with a quarter inch of metal shavings/sludge) and I had been driving it, I'd give it a shot because I really wanted to take my red brat to the meet... so driving to the meet, getting stuck in the mud briefly, and the many miles around the campsite/mud pit, then the drive home, I put about 500 miles on it. toasted the clutch pretty good, and by the time I got home, the tranny was just singing... metal grinding/rattling noises. if I put the clutch in it stopped, but let the clutch pedal out, and it started up again. really nasty sound. after getting it into the garage after getting the mud off, I drained the gear oil in prep for the 5 speed swap... here's what came out on the drain plug this time.... 2 more of the same keys and it still works and shifts, just so loud of rattling it scares the people sitting outside their houses when you drive by

finally got mine out tonight. will try to get a pic Saturday. flywheel has some nice heat cracks. about a quarter cup of clutch dust inside. I have big ruts in the clutch disc fromthe flywheel side. the pressure plate side was better,but still looked similar to your pic, but the pp was still shiny....

the motor mechanism is attached to the window with 2 bars. if the window is almost all the way down, you can see the 2 small 10mm head bolts that hold it. one at each end of the rail at the bottom of the window. after those are removed, and the window stop plates are removed rom the upper portion of the door, the window can be pulled out all the way, or it can just be raised enough to get the motor/arms assembly out. there are just a few bolts that hold it into the door. The FSM's have the best window directions/digrams I think.....