mcbrat

Yuupp. P0302

so I've been doing lots of searching on 4EAT issues and the most prevalent one was the DFE problem with 99-00 4EATs.... but I never really saw much for newer ones... this is only my 4th AT out of like 40 soobs, and I'm painfully reminded why I did find a thread related to the kickdown solenoid, which may be my issue. it was very windy today, and I went out to pass someone, and there may heve been a delay beore the trans reacted (I should have just manually shifted down) but it seemed to hesitate and sputter a bit, and the CEL fluttered on and off. I finally got around the truck and the light stayed off... and was fine the rest of the trip to work. there seems to be some occasional roughness of the shifting, but not any bad clunking like I've seen some complain... I will pull codes tonight when I get home... thoughts?

it's a slush-o-matic. no 5 speed swap in the future. lights and basket first, then maybe a pushbar. and some Grabber AT2s. Will be lifted sometime too....

No. that was silver....

throw it in the hatch....

that's what my friend Russ in DSM did with his 5 speed D/R. it's made the same way....

oil seal installed inside the holder. only accessible by splitting the trans and removing the holder. with o-ring installed and oiling guide installed installed into the case half...

I've had better luck with the older soobs at O'Reilley and Advance... should be able to check Advance online...

Correct. the oil seal is inside the housing, driven in from the inside, and the o-ring is prob 2-3mm below the face of the case. and the "cover" is a one piece unit that the oring is sitting on, and it has a shim/oil guide, and will not come out without splitting the case. I've got the overhaul manual out, and there are good pics showing the exact placements better than the pics in this thread...

maybe the 2 wire model grounds through the housing mounting bolts to the body?

sounds like you are referring to the headrest bracket, and the shorter ones will fit, you just need to drill a new hole. as far as the seats are concerned, they will fit. '78 - '87 are all interchangeable, though have a slight difference. the same seats and brackets were used from the '78 model up through the '83 model. sometime during the '84 model year run, the pistol grip handles changed over to a one piece design that looped from one side to the other behinf the seatback. (earlier models had 2 seperate pices and a plug/cover for the ends, which was usually lost, which allowed water into the handles to rust them out...) the typle of plastic used in the seats changed as well. they appears to have a bit heavier grain, and possible better UV resistance (just speculation) This style ended in '85 with the removal of the jump seats for the '86+ models

I ended up with some newer Legacy All weather mats that fit nicely. The speakers I put in were the absolute cheapest I could find. about $70 for all 4. Scosche branded. They stll sound way better than old wrecked stock ones and now after a WRX Exedy clutch kit, and axle replacement, it's back to daily driver status... picked up some WRX struts to put on sometime too...

went from 3 lifted soobs to just 1 in the last year... 1982 Brat ea81 engine, 5 speed D/R, sammy t-case w/ rear driveline disconnect. toyota solid axles, stock TJ Coils, toyota IFS/Subaru power steering. custom 4 link rear, 3 link front. Lengthened Toy driveshafts. Full Float Rear Axle Conversion. 105" wheelbase. 36x12.50x17 TSL SX tires on 17x9 steels. 17 gal. fuel cell. Gets worse mileage than my lifted '72 Chevy K20

Denis put on a good alt when he had it... I'll most likely replace it with one of mine after I go thru the wiring. this was just my first 5 minute look into the toasty ECU...

ok. after taking the ECU board out of the case, I can trace the circuit from the resistor that was cooked (R1) to pins B11 and B23. I've got Ben's '87 FSM, and not sure if it translates the same for the '88, but those pins correlate to the 2 white wires that feed the Ignition Relay. there's also roundish blue/white diodes that are fried on both bad ECUs. They are fed of of A16 and A18. A18 goes back to the fuse panel, and A16 goes to the check connector.

as long as you are replacing one from a 4 speed.

[jealous] we've only had about 2 inches of snow this year so far... it's 62 deg. here today [/jealous]

Anyone want my block?

AC Belt tensioner.... it was so toasty, you could hold it by the pulley with the bracket hanging down, and turn it, and the bracket would move with it, and hold at a 90 degree angle without any rotation!

right, all suspension mount points and crossmembers (engine and trans) need to be lowered along with a steering extension. and to lessen the bashing/cutting, you'll want to stick with wheels close to the subaru offset. The Peugeot wheels should work.

in order to put 31's on an '84 hatch, you're gonna need a 6" lift to limit your bashing... I had 30's on a turbo brat with a 4" lift, and even with cutting the fenders, I still had to bash the snot out of the rear of the front inner fender wells (the footwell area) and it took a lot of beating. it was basically back even with the door hinges, and the doors were a little less lined up than before...

since my SS is down for some work, I've been carpooling with the mrs. until today... I drove my Brat... was a bit squirrelly at first because we had a heavy front last night that covered all the roads, so it was wandering a bit, but once I got onto a more heavily travelled road it was good. found a couple sections of the 35 mile route that were less than optimal surface for the SX's I'm sure anyone who was used to a normal car would have been less than comfortable

my wife saw Guido in the garage today for the first time... she said it looks like it's been shot...

not sure if it was on the hatch I used to have, or wagon, but when I got the new rear hatch supports, I have to transfer over the mount piece to the new support...